SON 90 A1 OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE - Sewing machine SILVERCREST - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL SON 90 A1 OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE SILVERCREST

Intended Usage This overlock sewing machine is intended … - for use as a portable machine, - for the timming of material edges [sewing] of typical household textiles, and … - only for domestic household use. Safety instructions À This overlock sewing machine is not intended … -to be installed at a permanent location, - for the processing of other materials (e.g. leather, canvas, sailcloth and other heavy materials), - for commercial or industrial use. Like any other electrical device, a sewing machine can cause serious, even life-threatening injuries. To avoid these, and to work safely: +_ Always disconnect the power supply when leaving the machine unattended. This will prevent the risk of accidents if the machine is switched on accidentally. + Always first disconnect the power plug before carrying out maintenance work on the machine. This will prevent possibly lifethreatening electric shocks. The LED light is not exchangeable. + Do not pull the plug out of the wall socket by the lead. When pulling out the plug, always hold the plug, not the lead. + Only use the sewing machine in dry rooms. Arrange for defective power plugs and/or cables to be replaced at once by qualified technicians or our Customer Service Department. + This appliance is not intended for use by individuals (including children) wih restricted physical, physiological or intellectual abilities or deficiences in experience and/or knowledge unless they are supervised by a person responsible for their safety or receive from this person instruction in how the appliance is to be used. +_ Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance. + Never use the machine when the ventilation apertures are blocked. Keep the ventilation apertures of the machine and the foot switch free from fluff, dust and waste material. + Should the cable connected to the foot pedal become damaged, to avoid potential risks it must be replaced by the manufacturer, his customers services or a similarly qualified person. À Warning about injuries and material damages: +_ Keep your work space tidy. An untidy workplace can lead to accidents. + Provide adequate lighting when workingl +_ Do not wear loose clothing or jewellery, as these can be caught in moving parts. You should also wear a hair net if you have long hair. + Avoïd adopting an unusual posture. Remain steady and in a wellbalanced position at all times. +_lfaccidents occur as a result of handling the machine with insufficient care, or failure to follow the safety instructions in this manual, then the manufacturer cannot accept liability. + Never cover the ventilation slots! Risk of overheatingl + _ Keep the sewing machine oil well away from children. I swallowed, or should eye contact be made with the sewing machine oil, consult a doctor immediately.

Items supplied Overlock Sewing Machine oil Waste container Accessory box Operating instructions The accessories are to be found in the accessory box on the side ofthe machine (Fig.1.). Technical Data Replacement blade (bottom) 2 Needles Nr. 11 IT 4 Needles Nr. 14 Î (2 in the machine, | bre:nstalled) Il bbi (£a 4 Bobbin caps ÿ P: Lo Upper looper element =

Screwdriver small Screwdriver large EE) Covering hood DA Tweezers Brush with integrated — unstitcher Fig. 1 Number of threads 2,30r4 Number of needles 2orl Sewing speed approx. 1200 rpm Stitch width right: 3.0 mm - 4.5 mm left: 5.2 mm-6.7 mm Stitch length 1-4mm Needles HAx1 Nr 11-140or 130/705 Nr. 75-90 Power consumption : Motor: 90 W Rated voltage: 220-240 V-,50Hz Protection class: 1 E The sound intensity level under normal operating conditions amounts to 78dBA) Foot pedal Use only the foot pedal originally supplied with this sewing machine: - ELECTRONIC FDM Speed Controller -Type KD -2902

Description of the appliance © Thread tree @ Spool support © Thread roll centerer © Sewing foot lever © Adijustment wheel for stitch length © Handwheel @ Connection Footpedal/Power supply © Power switch (On/Off switch) © Differential transport lever © Front flap ® Support plate of the seam widih finger ©® Free arm ©® Stitch plate ©® Thread tension selector [left needle) ©® Thread tension selector (right needle) @ Thread tension selector [upper looper) ©® Thread tension selector {lower looper) Bringing the upper blade into a rest position © movable upper blade [Upper blade] ® Upper looper @ Lower looper @ Sewing foot @ Fixed lower blade @ Seam width switch @ Seam width adjustment knob To make certain types of seam, or to more easily operate the adjustment wheel for cutting width @, you must bring the upper blade @ into a rest position For this, press the upper blade @ to the right and rotate it a little, so that it is firmly seated (Fig. 2 and 3). Fig. 3 Needle Information This machine uses standard commercial flatshaft needles for sewing machines. | These prevent Ihe incorrect insertion of the needle. You can purchase these Seam width 3.5 mm 57 mm needles in any specialist shop. Employed needle right needle left needle You can use needles ofthe sizes 11 and 14 in his machine Thread tension selectorl green blue The adjoining table gives you a brief overview of the differences when using a needle [for detailed information, see "Setting the seam width]. Upper looper element For some kinds of stitches you will need to use the upper looper element. When you need to insert it is described in the individual stitches. Insert the small wire from behind in the eyelet of the upper looper ® and the plastic bolt, on the other end and from the front, in the hole in the upper looper ® (Fig. 4a) You can store the upper looper ready for use in the slot behind the front flap ® (Fig. 4b). Fig.4a

Opening the front flap À Attention! Always switch the machine off with the power switch @ when you open ihe front flap ®. Risk of Injuryl +_ Slide the front flap @® to the right (A) and then pull it towards you (B) (Fig. 5).You will see the upper looper behind the front flap ®. © Note: While sewing, the front flap ® must be kept closedl Preparation Place the overlock sewing machine on a stable and level surface. Ensure there is sufficient illumination at your workplace. Connecting the foot pedal *_Insertthe plug ofthe foot pedal into the socket for the foot pedal @. +_Insertthe plug into a power socket. To switch the machine on, press the power switch @. À Attention! During absences from the machine or when doing maintenance work, always remove the plug from the mains power socket. Risk of Injuryl Conirolling the sewing speed The sewing speed is controlled by means ofthe fooipedal. The sewing speed is changed by applying more or less pressure to 1he foolpedal. Safety switch This machine is fited with a micro safety switch. You cannot start the machine ifthe front flap @ is open. Close the front flap @® before you start to sew. Fitting the waste container The waste container collects remnants during sewing, so that your workplace stays tidy. + First push the two restraints (A) into the receiving holes (B] (Fig. 6). +_ Then guide the two restraints (C] into the receiving holes [D] (Fig. 7). +_ To remove the waste container, pull it forward and then tilt it slighily (Fig. 8). Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8

Removing needle(s) À Attention! Before exchanging the needles, remove the power plug. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury Tipl An exchange of the needles is easier if you first remove the free arm cover (Fig. Sal!

1. Turn the handwheel @ towards yourself until the needles are in the

highest position (Fig. 9b]

2. Loosen the needle retaining screws with the small screwdriver until the

needles are free (Fig. 10).

3. Remove the needles.

Inserting needle(s) À Attention! Before exchanging the needles, remove the power plug. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious Fig.2b injury!

1. Hold the needle with the flattened side to the rear.

2. Push the needle as far as it will go into the needle holder.

3. Firmly tighten the needle screws with the small screwdriver (Fig. 10).

Operating the handwheel © Note: Always turn the handwheel @ only towards yourself (Fig. 9b). Adjusting the thread tree + Completely remove the thread tree @ before threading (Fig. 11). Turn the thread tree @ so that the thread guides stand exactly above the spool supports @. +_Inthe correct position, the two jointed parts of the thread tree @ snap audibly into position.

Fig. 11 +_ Place the thread rolls on the thread roll centrings. If you do not use industrial coils, remove the thread roll centrings. Slide a spool cap onto each of the thread rolls (Fig. 12). This will hold them in place when sewing. Fig. 12

Threading © Note: On delivery, all 4 threads are already threaded. You can begin sewing im- mediately. Should you wish to change the thread, and all 4 threads are still hreaded, then proceed as described in the chapter "Changing threads (binding together)". Should you need to rethread all threads from scratch, then proceed as described in this chapter, "Threading”. General instructions for threading À Attention! Before threading, ALWAYS place the power switch @ at "O" (Off) and remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Correct threading is important, so that the stitches are not irregular and that the yarn does not break. Behind the front flap @ there is a diagram with instructions for threading. Additional}, the thread guides are marked in various colours. In the accessory box you will find iweezers, the use of which helps make threading easier. Threading is done in this order (Fig. 13/14):

1. First step: Upper looper (red)

2. Second step: _ Lower looper (yellow)

3. Third step: Thread for the right needle (green)

4. Fourih step: Thread for the left needle {blue}

© Note: When all threads are threaded, and the lower looper thread loosens itself, proceed as follows: + Unthread the two threads of the needles. +_ Then thread the lower looper thread. +_ First then rethread the threads of the two needles again. The needles must always be the last to be threadedl For simplification, the individual steps are numbered on the drawings. Threading the upper looper thread (red) À Attention! Before threading, ALWAYS place the power switch @ at "O" (Off) and remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Always use the accompanying drawings for assistance. Figure 15 shows the thread path of the upper looper thread. The individual threading positions are numbered and described in detail in the following.

1. Open the front flap ®.

2. Guide the yarn from back to front through the thread tree @ (1).

3. Thread the yarn into the thread guide in that you pull the thread down

until it slips under the thread guide (2} (Fig. 16].

4. Firmly hold the yarn with your fingers, guide it between and through

the dises of the thread tension selector @ and then pull it down (3) (Fig. 171. © Note: The yarn must lie correcily between the two dises of the thread tension selector ®.

5. Thread the yarn in the looper area as per the red markings (Fig. 18).

6. Pull the thread from back to front through the upper looper ®.

7. Pull around 10 cm of thread through the looper and place it behind

Threading the lower looper thread (yellow) À Attention! Before threading, ALWAYS place the power switch @ at "O" [Off] and remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Figure 19 shows the thread path of the lower looper thread. The individual threading positions are numbered and described in detail in the following.

1. Guide the yarn from back to front through the thread tree @ (1).

2. Thread the yarn into the thread guide in that you pull the thread down

until it slips under the thread guide (2} (Fig. 20].

3. Firmly hold the yarn with your fingers, guide it between and through

the discs of the thread tension selector @ and then pull it down (3) (Fig. 21). © Note: The yarn must lie correcily between the two dises of the thread tension selector ®.

4. Turn the handwheel @ to yourself until the lower looper @ is at the

5. Thread the yarn in the looper area as per the yellow markings [4 - 8)

6. Firmly hold the yarn with the tweezers about 4 cm from the thread

7. Now guide it lighily, from the left and with the tweezers, under the

8. Pull the yarn upwards into the thread guide (9).

9. Lead the yarn to the rear and over the upper end of the lower looper @

10. Then, carefully pull the yarn down so that it slides into the recess of

the looper ([10B] (Fig. 23). For this step also use the drawing which is attached to the machinel

11. Guide the thread through the looper eyelet (11). The yarn should run

in the groove of the lower looper @ (Fig. 23).

12. Draw around 10 cm of yarn through the looper and place it to the

rear over the upper looper ® and ihe stitch plate ®. Threading yarn for the right needle (green) À Attention! Before threading, ALWAYS place the power switch @ at "O" (Off) and remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Figure 24 shows he thread path of the right needle thread. The individual threading positions are numbered and described in detail in the following.

1. Guide the yarn from back to front through the thread tree @ (1).

2. Thread the yarn into the thread guide in that you pull the thread down

until it slips under the thread guide (2} (Fig. 25].

3. Firmly hold the yarn with your fingers, guide it between and through

the dises of the thread tension selector @ and then pull it down (3) (Fig. 26). © Note: The yarn must lie correcily between the two dises of the thread tension selector ®.

4. Thread the yarn as perthe green markings [4- 7] (Fig. 27/28).

5. Thread the yarn through the right needlle (8] (Fig. 28).

6. Lay the yarn to the rear under the sewing foot @.

Threading yarn for the left needle (blue) À Attention! Before threading, ALWAYS place the power switch @ at "O" [Off] and remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Figure 29 shows the thread path of the left needle thread. The individual threading positions are numbered and described in detail in the following.

1. Guide the yarn from back to front through the thread tree @ (1).

2. Thread the yarn into the thread guide in that you pull the thread down

until it slips under the thread guide (2} [Fig. 30].

3. Firmly hold the yarn with your fingers, guide it between and through

the dises of the thread tension selector @ and then pull it down (3) (Fig. 31). © Note: The yarn must lie correcily between the two dises of the thread tension selector ®.

4. Thread the yarn as perthe blue markings (4 - 6] (Fig. 32/33).

5. Thread the yarn through the left needle [7] (Fig. 33).

6. Lay the yarn to the rear under the sewing foot @.

Trial run When yarn has been threaded for the first time, or after a yarn breakage it must be rethreaded, proceed as follows: Lift the sewing foot @. Hold the ends of the threads between the fingertips of your left hand, slow ly turn the handwheel @ two or three times towards yourself and then check the threads once again. Lay the material for a trial run under the sewing foot @ and slowly start to sew. The material will be automatically fed through. When the task is complete, continue sewing until an approximately 5cm (2"} long length of threads has formed at the end ofthe material. Cut through the threads with scissors. Fig. 32

Changing threads (binding together) Changing threads is quite simple with the following procedure:

1. Cut the yarn above the spool support @ (Fig. 34) and place the new

roll of thread on the spool support @.

2. Tie the ends of the new and the old thread together (Fig. 35].

3. Place the thread tension selector /®/0/@® at "0" (Fig. 36) and lift

4. Pull on the other end of the yarn until the knot passes under the sewing

5. For threading it in the needle, pull on the other end until the knot is in

the eye of the needle and then cut the yarn to the left and right of the knot. Then carry out the rethreading. Set the stitch length The stitch length can be adjusted from 1.0 to 4.0 mm. Almost all overlock work is carried out with a stitch length of 2.5 - 3.5 mm. Turn on the adjustment wheel for stitch length @ (Fig. 37) to adijust the stitch length: + A stitch length of 3 mm is recommended for most sewing. +_ Forthe working of heavy fabrics, a stitch length of 4 mm is to be re- commended. + Forthe working of light fabrics, a stitch length of 2 mm is to be re- commended.. With these settings you will produce respectable seams and the fabric will not be crimped. Setting the seam width Fig. 37 The widih of seams can be determined both by changing the needlle position and via the seam widih adjustment knob @. … by using the right or left needle The width of the seam can be determined by using the left or the right needle. + Only the left neede is used: 5.7 mm + Only the right needle is used: 3.5 mm

… by turning the seam width adjustment knob By using the seam width adjustment knob @, seam widih can be adjusted Within the ranges indicated below. + Only the left neede is used: 52-67 mm + Only the right needle is used: 30-45 mm Setting the seam widih adjustment knob À Attention! Before making adjustments with the seam width adjustment knob @ always place the mains switch @ at the position "O" (Off). This prevents an accidental start of the appliance and thus the risk of injury! + Open the front flap @, this can make the adjustment easier to carry out. +_ Turn the seam widih adjustment knob @ to the desired seam width (Fig. 38). Orientate yourself on the scale on the stitch plate (Fig. 39). Fig. 38 Adjust sewing foot pressure Upon delivery, the sewing foot pressure is set for medium-weight materials. IF you wish to use heavier or lighter materials, adjust the sewing foot pressure as follows: +_ For lighter fabrics, you need to reduce the pressure. +_ For heavier fabrics, you need to increase the pressure. Insert the small screwdriver into the hole on the upper side of the machine (Fig. 40). The pressure adjustment screw is located here (A). Ensure that the screwdriver slips into the slot of the pressure adjustment screw (B) (Fig. 41). + Turnthe screwdriver in the direction "+" if you want to increase the pressure. *_ Turn the screwdiriver in the direction "" if you want to reduce the pressure. © Note: To return to the factory-set default sewing foot pressure, turn the pressure adjustment screw as far as it will go anti-clockwise [+]. Then turn it 6 rotations in a clockwise (+) direction. B The standard sewing foot pressure is reset. Fig. 41 A

Differential transport Manner of operation The machine has two sets of toothed rack feeders, one to the front and one to the rear. Both sets move independant of each other. Through the differential feed motion both toothed rack sets can move themselves at various speeds. With this, the fabric is stretched or gathered, depending on which transport differential has been set between the front and rear rack feeders. With the aid of the differential transport, interesting effects can be achie- ved when sewing overlock seams on stretch materials and diagonally eut fabrics (Fig. 43). © Note: When the differential transport lever @ stands at "1.0", that corresponds Both toothed feed racks move at the to a differential transport ratio of same rate (Fig. 42). The differential transport lever @ can be adiusted in a range from 1:0.7 to 1:2.0. Gathered overlock seam - Settings The gathered overlock seam is suitable for the ruffling of sleeves, back upper parts, skirt seams etc.made of elastic materials such as knitwear and jersey. The individual parts should be brought together before sewing. Adjust the differential transport lever @ to a value higher than 1.0 (Fig. 44). The exact setting depends on the material to be processed and the desired level of ruffling or gathering. Therefore always do a sample stitching to test the settings. Stretched overlock seam - Settings The stretched overlock seam is suitable for the manufacture of ruffles at the collar, cuffs and skirt edges etc. in soft, stretchy fabric and knitwear. Adjust the differential transport lever @ to a value lower than 1.0 (Fig. 45). The exact setting depends on the material to be processed, and on the strength of the desired "ruffle effect". Therefore always do a sample stitching to test the settings. + Hold the seam down with slight firmness before and behind the sewing foot @ so as to keep the textile under tension. © Note: IF you have set a value of "3" or higher on the adjustment wheel for the stitch length @, this setting will automatically return to "3" when you set the differential transport lever @ to 2.0. Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 43

Free arm sewing To work tubularshaped fabries, such as sleeves or trouser legs, you can remove the free arm cover. +_lf appropriate, remove the waste container from the machine. +_ Slide the free arm cover to the left and pull it off (Fig. 46). + You can now pull the textiles over the free arm @ and work them (Fig. 47). + _ To replace the free arm cover, push it onto the free arm @ until it clicks into place and is firmly seated (Fig. 48).

Overlock seams + Open the front flap ®. + Slide the seam width switch @ to "S", so that the seam widih finger is pushed forward (1) (Fig. 49). © Note: The seam widih switch @ must be pushed until it can go no further. Otherwise, the seams will be untidy, Roll hemmings + Open the front flap ®. + Slide the seam width switch @ to "R", so that the seam widih finger is pushed backward (1) (Fig. 50) © Note: The seam widih switch @ must be pushed until it can go no further, otherwise the seams will be untidy.

Binding-off and sample sewing + Lay all yarns under the sewing foot @, to the rear, slighily to the left and over the stitch plate ®. Firmly hold the yarns under a slight tension. +_ Turn the handwheel @ 2 to 3 revolutions onto itself to begin empty chaïnstitch formation. +_ Lower the sewing foot @ with the sewing foot lever @. + Hold the empty chainstitch again firmly and carefully activate the foot pedal until the empty chainstatch is approximately 5 - 7.5 cm long. Place the fabric from the front under the sewing foot @ and sew a test seam (Fig. 51). Under no circumstances should you pull on the textile, otherwise the needle will be bent or could even break off. +_ Continue sewing even after the textile is finished for about 15 to 20 cm. + Cutthe empty chainstitch by using the blade at the rear of the machine (Fig. 52). Recommended tension settings © Note: All information about tension settings for the different kinds of stitches are purely guiding values. The thread tension itself is always dependant on the type and thickness of the fabric, as well as needle strength and the strength, type and material composition of the yarn. Itis therefore absolutely necessary to sew a test seam. lt is the only way you can find out if the tension settings are correct, or if they need to be changed. Fig. 52

2-thread overcast chain stitch (overlock) Figure 53 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 2 threads is used for tidying the edges of Needle position Me) @L ] light or stretchy fabrics. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide overcast seam. Adjust the thread tension selectors ® ® ® @ to the appropriate values Seam width switch S {see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. For this type of stitch insert the upper looper element in the upper looper ®. Stitch length 2-4 Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow Upper looper element insert . Inserting the light material 2.0 upper looper 0 element medium Inserting the Correct thread tension weight 2.5 - upper looper 0 material element h Inserting the eavy material 3.5 - upper looper| O.5 element needle thread Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow lover Roper thread Inserting the light material - 1.5 upper looper 0.5 Underside element medium- Inserting the Fig. 53 weight - 1.5 upper looper 0.5 material element heavy Inserting the material - 3.0 [upperlooper| 1.5 element Incorrect thread tension Should the lower looper yarn appear to be too tight or the needle thread too loose (Fig. 54] : +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a lower number, or … turn the thread tension selector for the needle (blue ® or green ®] to a higher number. lower looper thread Fig. 54 Should the lower looper yarn appear to be too loose (Fig. 55), turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread ® (yellow) to a higher number. bwer looper thread Fig. 55

2-hread-overcast-stitch Figure 56 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 2 threads is used for tidying normal fabrics with an overcast stitch. lt is also ideal for flat stitch seams (fell or butt seams) and blind hemming. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide overcast seam. Adhust the thread tension selectors ® © ® ® to the appropriate values {see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. For this type of stitch insert the upper looper element in the upper looper ®. Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow . Inserting the light material 0.5 - upper looper| 1.0 element medium- Inserting the weight 0.5 - upper looper| 1.5 material element heavy Inserting the material 1.0 upper looper| 1.5 element Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow , Inserting the light material - 1.0 |upperlooper| 3.0 element medium- Inserting the weight - 1.5 upper looper 3.5 material element heavy Inserting the material - 1.5 [upperlooper| 3.5 element Should the lower looper yarn lie on the underside of the textile (Fig. 57): +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a higher number, or … +_turn the thread tension selector for the needle (blue ® or green ) to a lower number. Should the needle yarn be too loose (Fig. 58]: +_turn the thread tension selector for the needle (blue ® or green ) to a higher number. +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a lower number. Needle position O0) [0e Seam widih switch S Stitch length 2-4 Upper looper element insert Correct thread tension needle thread Underside Fig. 56 Incorrect thread tension lower looper thread Top needle thread derside Fig. 57 Incorrect thread tension lower looper thread Top needle thread Fig. 58

3-thread chain stitch (overlock) Figure 59 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 3 threads is used for tidying of normal fabrics With an overcast stitch. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide overcast seam. Adhust the thread tension selectors ® © ® ® to the appropriate values {see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow light 2.0 - 2.0 1.0 material medium- weight 3.0 - 2.0 1.5 material heavy 3.0 - 3.0 1.5 material Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow light - 2.0 7.0 2.0 material medium- weight - 2.5 6.5 2.5 material heavy - 3.5 6.5 2.5 material Should the upper looper yarn lie on the underside ofthe textile (Fig. 60): +_turn the thread tension selector @ for the upper looper thread (red) to a higher number, or … +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a lower number. Should the lower looper yarn lie on the upperside of he textile (Fig. 61): +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a higher number, or … +_turn the thread tension selector @ for the upper looper thread (red) to a lower number. Should the needle thread appear to be too loose (Fig. 62), turn the thread tension selector for the needle thread (blue ® or green ®) to a higher number. Needle position LA [®1,.4 Seam widih switch S Stitch length Upper looper element not necessary

3 -thread - flailock seam Figure 63 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 3 threads is used for fell or butt seams and for ornamental stitches with decorative thread. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide flatlock seam [flatlock), Adhust the thread tension selectors ® © ® ® to the appropriate values {see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow light 0.5 - 2.5 25 material medium- weight 0.5 - 2.0 2.0 material heavy 1.0 - 3.0 3.0 material Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow light - 0 7.0 4.0 material ° ° LE medium- weight - 0.5 7.0 4.0 material heavy - 1.0 7.0 40 material Should the lower looper yarn be too loose (Fig. 64) +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a higher number, or +_turn the thread tension selector for the needle (blue ® or green ) to a lower number. Should the upper looper yarn be too loose (Fig. 65); +_turn the thread tension selector for the upper looper thread @ (red) to a higher number, or +_turn the thread tension selector for the needle (blue ® or green ) to a lower number. Should the needle yarn be too loose (Fig. 66) +_turn the thread tension selector for the needle (blue ® or green ) to a higher number. +_turn the thread tension selector for the upper looper thread @ (red) to a lower number. Needle position LA®] ed Seam widih switch S Stitch length 2-4 Upper looper element not necessary Correct thread tension Underside Fig. 63 Incorrect thread tensions needle thread needle thread upper looper thread r looper thread Top Underside Fig. 64 needle thread needle thread upper looper thread ywer looper thread Top Underside Fig. 65 needle thread ower looper thread Fig. 66

3-thread overcast chain stitch (overlock) Figure 67 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with a needle and 3 threadé is used for sewing, for example, decorative edges. By changing the needle position you can obtain a narrow or a wide overcast chain seam. Adhust the thread tension selectors ® © ® ® to the appropriate values {see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow light 2.0 - 0 40 material ° ° medium- weight 3.0 - 0.5 6.5 material heavy 40 - 0.5 75 material Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow light - 1.5 0 5.0 material ° ° medium- weight - 2.5 1.0 7.0 material heavy - 3.0 1.5 8.0 material Should the upper looper yarn be too loose (Fig. 68): +_turn the thread tension selector for the upper looper thread @ (red) to a higher number. Should the lower looper yarn be too loose (Fig. 69): +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a higher number, or … +_turn the thread tension selector for the upper looper thread @ (red) to a lower number. Should the needle yarn be too loose (Fig. 70]: +_turn the thread tension selector for the needle (blue ® or green ) to a higher number. +_turn the thread tension selector for the upper looper thread @ (red) to a lower number. Needle position ®0| [0e Seam widih switch S Stitch length Upper looper element not necessary Correct thread tension eee thread upper looper thread Top lower looper thkad Underside Fig. 67 Incorrect thread tension needle thread upper looper thread Top Fig. 68 eedle thread needle thread upper looper thread looper thread Top Fig. 69 needle thread eedle thread upper looper thread 74 Top

3-thread safety stitch, highly elasti Figure 71 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with 2 needles and 3 threadks is ideal for lightweight, extremely stretchy fabrics such os jersey and spandex. Adhust the thread tension selectors ® © ® ® to the appropriate values {see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. For this type of stitch insert the upper looper element in the upper looper ®. Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow . Inserting the light material 2.0 1.5 upper looper () element medium- Inserting the weight 3.0 2.0 |upperlooper| 0.5 material element hea Inserting the "y 4.0 3.0 {upperlooper| 1.0 material element Should the upper looper yarn be too loose (Fig. 72): +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a higher number. Should the left needle yarn be too loose (Fig. 73]: +_turn the thread tension selector for the left needle @ [blue] to a higher number. Should the right needle yarn be too loose (Fig. 74}: +_turn the thread tension selector for the right needle ® {green) to a higher number. Needle position Seam widih switch S Stitch length Upper looper element insert Correct thread tension Left needle thread Right needle thread r thread lower loop} Top Underside Fig. 71 Incorrect thread tension lower looper thread Fig. 72 Top Fig. 73 lower looper thread Top Fig. 74

thread safety stitch, highly elasti Figure 75 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. This stitch with 2 needles and 4 threads is ideal for medium to heavy, stretchy fabrics such as double-knitted materials and swimwear. Itis suitable for combining two materials and neatening the edges at the same time. Adhust the thread tension selectors ® © ® ® to the appropriate values {see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. Tensioning the thread Textiles blue green red yellow light material| 2.5 20 2.5 20 medium- weight 3.0 20 3.0 20 material heavy 40 2.5 40 25 material Should the upper looper yarn lie on the underside ofthe textile (Fig. 76): +_turn the thread tension selector for the upper looper thread @ (red) to a higher number, or … +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ (yellow) to a lower number. Should the lower looper yarn lie on the upperside of he textile (Fig. 77): +_turn the thread tension selector for the lower looper thread @ [yellow] to a higher number, or … +_turn the thread tension selector for the upper looper thread @ (red) to a lower number. Should the left needle yarn be too loose (Fig. 78]: +_turn the thread tension selector for the left needle @ [blue] to a higher number. Should the right needle yarn be too loose (Fig. 79): +_turn the thread tension selector for the right needle ® {green) to a higher number. Needle position Seam widih switch S Stitch length Upper looper element not necessary Correct thread tension upper looper thread RIT

Roll hemmings With this machine you can sew four different roll hemming types. When sewing roll hemmings, the fabric edge is folded over and provided with an overlock seam. Lighiweïght fabrics such as baïste, chiffon, organza and so on are best for these kinds of seams. Heavy fabrics or stiff materials are not suitable for roll hemmings. + Remove the left needle. + Setthe seam width switch @ at"R" (Fig. 80). +_ Align the support plate of the seam widih finger on the marking "R" on the stitch plate by turning out the seam width adjustment knob @ (Fig. 81). Place the dial for the stitch length @ at"F-2" (Fig. 82). With this a fine seam is sewn. + For roll hemmings use a needle with specification Nr. 14. © Tips: +_ For a rolled hem many different combinations of yarn can be used. To create a particularly beautiful rolled hem (3-thread rolled hem), use a bushy yarn [bushy polyamid thread/woolly nylon) as the upper looper yarn and normal yarn for the needle and lower looper. For a 2hread rolled hem use bushy yarn for the lower looper thread and normal yarn for the needle thread. + Atthe start of sewing hold the empty thread chain firmly so that they cannot roll into the seam. + Subject the material to slight tension in the sewing direction. This will make the seam more delicate. +_ Before cutting the thread chain close to the textile, apply a small drop of fabric glue to the seam and allow it to dry. Check for colourfasiness on the textile prior to this. 3-thread rolled hem Figure 83 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. Adjust the thread tension selectors © ® ® to the appropriate values (see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. Upper looper Tensioning the thread thread blue green red yellow Polyester - 2.0 7.5 3.0 Bushy yarn - 2.0 2.0 2.0 3-thread upper looper overcast rolled hem Figure 84 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. Adjust the thread tension selectors ® ® ® to the appropriate values (see table) then sew a test seam on the material being used. Upper looper Tensioning the thread thread blue green red yellow Polyester - 2.0 5.5 7.0 Bushy yarn - 2.0 (o] 2.5 Needle position

24hread rolled hem Figure 85 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch.

Adjust the thread tension selectors ® @ to the appropriate values (see table] then sew a test seam on the material being used. For this type of stitch insert the upper looper element in the upper looper ®. Lower looper Tensioning the thread element thread blue green red yellow Inserting the Bushy yarn - 1.5 upper looper 1.5 2-thread lower looper overcast rolled hem Figure 86 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch.. Adjust the thread tension selectors ® @ to the appropriate values (see table] then sew a test seam on the material being used. For this type of stitch insert the upper looper element in the upper looper ®. Tensioning the thread Lower looper thread blue green red yellow Inserting the Polyester - 2.0 upper looper 2.0 element Inserting the Bushy yarn - 1.5 upper looper 1.5 element Needle position

Flatlock decorative seams To produce flatlock seams, set up the thread tensions for a 3-thread overlock stitch. Sew a seam and then pull the fabric apart to smooth the seam. The flatlock seam can be used as a decorative assembly seam or as pure ornamental stitching (Fig. 87, dark thread). [0] Tips: +_ Pay attention to proper tension, so that the workpiece can be pulled well apart after sewing. Use a decorative thread as the upper looper thread, since this is the most important thread and will be clearly visible. . Remove the right or the left needle (Fig. 88).

2. Set up the recommended tension settings for a 3thread overlock seam

3. Then readjust the upper thread tensions (green or blue] so that they are

4. Now also release the thread tension of the upper looper (red) somewhat.

5. Then adjust the thread tension of the lower looper (yellow) considerably

tighter. Flatlock seam as assembly seam + Place the two fabrics to be sewn inside out to each other, so as to create a decorative seam on the front side. +_Sew the seam and while doing this cut away the excess fabric (Fig. 90). Figure 91 shows you the stitch pattern for this stitch. +_The upper thread {needle thread) [green or blue] then has a V-shaped pattern on the inside of the fabric. +_ The lower looper thread runs as a straïght line along the fabric edge. +_ Pull the fabric apart on both sides of the seam, so that the stitches lie flat. Fig. 87 Fig. 88 Fig. 89 Fig. 90 lower looper thread upper looper thread Top Fig. 91

Flatlock seam as decorative seam + Adjust the movable upper blade @ into a rest position (Fig. 92). The textile is not trimmed in this type of seam. Fold the textile so that the two inside sides lie on each other. S [e N Fig. 92 *_ Place the textile so that a portion of the stitch is sewn outside ofthe textile (Fig. 93). + Sew the seam. Then fold the textiles apart. The stitches will then lie flat. Fig. 93 Overlock blind hems The overlock blind hem is best suited for knitwear. lt creates a durable edgetidying and is hardly noticeable (Fig. 94]. In one operation the protruding material is eut away, the hem is sewn and the edges are provided with an overlock seam.

1. Remove the left needle and set the machine up for a narrow 3:thread

overlock seam. Fig. 94

2. Set the stitch length to 4 mm.

3. Fold the hem, first to the inside and then to the outside of the fabric, so

that the fabric edge stands 6 mm above the first fold (Fig. 95).

4. Sew carefully on the fold. Thereby, the needle must pierce straight into

the edge of the fold. Fig. 95 Pin tucks To render your decorative garment as more creative, it can be provided with pin tucks before trimming (Fig. 96). Pin tucks are ornamental seams, as … 77 shown in the figure 96. b ; 7

1. Remove the left needle and set the machine up for a narrow 34hread over- É

2. Adjust the upper blade ® into the rest position. 4

3. To achieve a uniform result, mark the desired number of pintucks on the ln

4. Fold the fabric inside out and sew it.

fabric with watersoluble fabric pen or fabric chalk. “Mn \

5. When all of the tucks are sewn, iron them all in one direction so that

they lie evenly flat.

Sewing corners Outer corners

1. Cut away, before and after the corner, about 2 cm to the seam line

2. Sew a stitch further than to the marking "A" on the drawing and then

4. Pull the fabric to the rear, such that the yarn being held by the finger of

the stitch plate ® is released. (For better recognition, on the drawing opposite the sewing foot @ is not shown - Figure 98].

5. Rotate the workpiece and lower the sewing foot @ so that the upper

blade ® lies in a line with the cutting edge (Fig. 99).

6. Pull the loose threads up and continue to sew.

1. Cut the fabric away from the seam edge.

4. Stop sewing just before reaching the corner.

5. Place a fold on the corner, so that the two edges form a line (Fig. 102).

6. Sew slowly over the comer and along the second edge. Ensure that you do

not include the fold! Fig. 101 Fig. 102

Tips and Tricks Using pins Always insert pins to the left ofthe sewing foot @ (Fig. 103]. The pins are thus not in the cutting area of the blade ® @ and ihey can be easily removed afterwards. À Attention! Appliance Damage! NEVER sew over pins or other hard materials. The blade ® @ could be irreparably damagedl Secure empty threads To prevent the loosening of an empty thread chain, you should thread the empty thread chain into a hand-sewing needle. For security, insert the needle into the end of the seam. Seam reinforcement The seam can be strengthened if it is sewn with a reinforcing strip. To do this, guide the strip through the slot in the front area of the sewing foot @ (Fig. 104). Place the strip under the foot and to the rear and then sew the seam. Thus the strip is sewn into the seam (Fig. 105). Edging

1. Adjust the upper blade @ into the rest position.

2. Remove the right needle and its thread.

3. Pull the cord inlay (yarn or reinforcing strip] through the slot in the front

of the sewing foot @ (Fig. 106).

4. Lay the cord inlay under the sewing foot @) and chainstitch the desired

length (Fig. 107). You can use the chainstiched edgings individually or weave several together. Fig. 103 Fig. 104 Fig. 105 Fig. 107

Maintenance and Cleaning À Attention! Before cleaning or carrying out maintenance, ALWAYS remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Cleaning and lubrication + Regularly remove dust and lint from the looper and blade areas. For this you can use the supplied brush (Fig. 108]. + Wipe the machine with a lighily moistened cloth. +_Lubricate the machine regularly at the lubrication points shown on Figure 109. For this use exclusively sewing machine oil. Exchanging the lower blade À Attention! Before changing the blade @ ALWAYS remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury! Change the lower blade @ as soon as you notice that the lower blade @ no longer provides accurate and clean cuts. Use Figure 110 for assistance.

1. Open the front flap ®.

2. Adjust the upper blade @ into the rest position (A).

3. Remove the screw on the lower blade @ (B] and remove the blade @

4. Slide the new blade @ into the retainer and then tighten it with the

5. Place the upper blade ® in the work position and close the front flap ®.

Storage À IMPORTANT: ALWAYS remove the plug from the mains power socket before putting the machine into storage. This prevents an unintentional starting of the appliance, and thus the risk of injury, as well as an overheating of it! When the machine is not in use, always cover it with the hood. This will protect the machine from dust. Store the machine at a clean and dry location. Always transport the machine with the fold-out handle. Disposal Do not dispose ofthe appliance in your normal domestic waste. This product is subject to the provisions of European = Directive 2002/96/EC. Dispose of the appliance through an approved disposal centre or at your community waste facility. Observe the currently applicable regulations. In case of doubt, please contact your waste disposal centre. Warranty and Service Dispose of the packaging materials in an environmentally

Under no circumstances should you dispose of the sewing machine oil with responsible manner. household waste. Do not pour it down the drain. Dispose of the machine oil through an approved disposal centre or at your community waste facility. You receive a 3-year warranty for this appliance as of the purchase date. This appliance has been manufactured with care and meticulously examined before delivery. Please retain your receipt as proof of purchase. In the case of a warranty claim, please make contact by telephone with our service department. Only in this way can a postfree despaïch for your goods be assured. The warranty covers only claims for material and maufacturing defects, not for transport damage, wearing parts or for damage to fragile components, e.g. buttons or batteries. This product is for private use only and is not intended for commercial applications. In the event of misuse and improper handling, use of force and interference not carried out by our authorized service branch, the warranty will become void.. Your statutory rights are not restricted in any way by this warranty. The warranty is not extended by repairs made under warranty. This also ap- plies to replaced and repaired parts. Damages and defects extant on pur- chase must be reported immediately after unpacking, at latest by two days after the purchase date. Repairs carried out after expiry of the warranty period are subject to charge. Importer

Troubleshooting Problem Cause Solution + Needles are bent, blunt or damaged at the . + Fit new needles. points. Needles break + Needles are not correctly inserted. + Insert the needles into the retainers correcily. + You have pulled the material too heftily. + Carefully guide the material with both hands Thread breaks + Yarn has not been correctly threaded + Thread the yarn correctly. + Thread tension is too high

• Reduce the thread tension. + Needles are not correctly inserted. + Insert the needles into the retainers correcily. Stitches are omitted + Needles are bent, blunt or damaged at the points + Fit new needles. + Needles are not correctly inserted. + Insert the needles into the retainers correcily. + Yarn has not been correctly threaded + Check the course of the individual threads. Stitches are irregular + Thread tension is not correct. + Correct the thread tension. + Thread is trapped + Check the course of the individual threads. Seams cause wrinkles + Thread tension is too high + Adjust the thread tension + Yarn has not been correctly threaded + Thread the yarn correctly. + Thread is blocked. + Check the course of the individual threads. +_ Differential feed motion not adjusted. + Correcily adjust the differential transport. Material is not cut off cleanly + Blades are blunt or improperly fitted. + Exchange the blade or reinsert it correctly. Material edges ruffle themselves + Too much material in a stitch + Altering the seam width