SMR 530 R - Motorcycle HUSQVARNA - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL SMR 530 R HUSQVARNA

HUSQVARNA MOTORCYCLES S.R.L. BMW GROUP www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com A = 0÷2 mm (0÷0.08 in.) Fig. A

Asse pignone Asse forcellone Asse ruota

REGISTRAZIONE CATENA

PRESENTATION Welcome to the Husqvarna motorcycling Family! Your new Husqvarna motorcycle is designed and manufactured to be the finest in its field. The instructions in this book have been prepared to provide a simple and understandable guide for your motorcycle’s operation and care. Follow the instructions carefully to obtain maximum performance and your personal motorcycling pleasure. Your owner’s manual contains instructions for owner care and maintenance. The main work of repair or maintenance requires the attention of a skilled mechanic and the use of special tools and equipment. Your Husqvarna dealer has the facilities, experience and original parts necessary to properly render this valuable service. This “Owner’s Manual” and the “Purchase Registration Booklet” are parts and parcels of the motorcycle, hence, they have to remain with the motorcycle even when sold to another user. This motorcycle uses components designed thanks to systems and state of the art technologies which are thereafter tested in competition. In competition motorcycles, every detail is verified after each race in order to always guarantee better performance. For correct functioning of the vehicle, it is necessary to follow the maintenance and control table found on Appendix A.

IMPORTANT NOTICES - The SMR 450-R - 530-R model is guaranteed COMPETITION motorcycles exempt from functional defects, the suggested maintenance table for competition use is shown on Appendix A. In order to maintain t he vehicle’s “Guarantee of Functionality”, the client must follow the maintenance program indicated in the user’s manual by carrying out maintenance checks at authorized HUSQVARNA dealers. The cost for substituting parts and for the labour necessary in order to respect the maintenance plan, is charged to the client. Important Notice Read this manual carefully and pay special attention to statements preceeded by the following words: Warning*: Indicates a possibility of severe personal injury or loss of life if instructions are not followed. Caution*: Indicates a possibility of personal injury or equipment damage if instructions are not followed. Note*: Gives helpful information. Parts Replacement When parts replacement is required, use only Husqvarna ORIGINAL parts. Warning*: After an upset, inspect the motorcycle carefully. Make sure that the throttle, brake, clutch and all other systems are undamaged. Riding with a damaged motorcycle can lead to a serious crash. Warning*: Never attempt to start or operate your motorcycle unless you are wearing appropriate protective clothing. Always wear a motorcycle helmet, motorcycle boots, gloves, goggles and other appropriate protective clothing. Warning*: This motorcycle is a state of the art competition bike. Do not attempt to start or ride this motorcycle until you have received expert instruction and are in excellent physical condition.

PRECAUTIONS FOR CHILDREN WARNING

Park the vehicle where it is unlikely to be bumped into or damaged. Even slight or involuntary bumps can cause the vehicle to topple over, with subsequent risk of serious harm to people or children. To prevent the vehicle from tipping over, never park it on soft or uneven ground, nor on asphalt strongly heated by the sun. Engine and exhaust pipes become very hot during riding. Always park your motorcycle where people or children can not easily reach these parts, in order to avoid serious burns.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page Notes References to the “left” or “right” of the motorcycle are in the sense of a person facing forwards.

USA: number of teeth Austria Australia Belgium Brazil Canada Switzerland Germany Spain France Finland Great Britain Italy Japan United States of Americaa Where not specified, all the data and the instructions are referred to any and all Countries.

IDENTIFICATION DATA The engine number is printed on the upper side of the engine case, whereas the frame number is printed on the steering tube . Always state the number stamped on the frame (and write it on this booklet), when placing orders for spare parts, or when asking for information on your motorcycle. FRAME NUMBER

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (V.I.N.) The full 17 digit serial, or Vehicle Identification Number, is stamped on the steering head tube (R.H. side).

1. Frame serial number

2. Engine serial number

1. Front brake lever

12. Fuel cock

2. Throttle grip

13. Gearbox control pedal

3. Rear brake control pedal

14. Air bleeding screw on front fork leg

4. Choke (L.H. side)

15. Compression damper adjustment (front fork leg bottom side)

5. Fuel tank filler cap

16. Extension damper adjustment (front fork leg top side)

6. Motor starter pushbutton

7. Rear shock absorber spring preload adjustment

8. Rear shock absorber compression damper adjustment (low and high damping speeds)

9. Rear shock absorber extension damper adjustment

10. Engine stop button

11. Clutch control lever

TIMING SYSTEM Valve clearance (with engine cold) Intake ..............................................................0,004÷0,006 in. Exhaust ...........................................................0,006÷0,008 in. LUBRICATION Type ........dry sump with two oil pump rotor and cartridge filter Type C.D.I. electronic, with variable advance (digital control) Spark plug type.....................................................NGK CR9EKB Spark plug gap .........................................................0,0315 in.

FRAME Type...............................Steel single tube cradle (roud, rectangular, ellipsoidal tubes); light alloy rear frame FRONT SUSPENSION Type “Upside-Down MARZOCCHI” telescopic hydraulic front fork with advanced axle (adjustable in compression and rebound stroke); stanchions tubes ø 1,97 in. Legs axis stroke ................................................................. 10,63 in. REAR SUSPENSION Type....progressive with hydraulic single shock absorber “SACHS” Wheel stroke ......................................................................11,42 in. WHEELS With aluminium spokes and STS “Tubeless Alpina” device FRONT BRAKE Type ......................................... “BREMBO” floating disc Ø 12,2 in., wawe type, with hydraulic control and radial caliper machined from billet; “BREMBO” Racing type 16x16 machined from billet. REAR BRAKE Type..... “BREMBO”floating disc Ø 9,45 in., “Wavw” typewith hy- draulic control and floating caliper

DIMENSION, WEIGHT, CAPACITY

Wheelbase .................................................................56.93 in.

TABLE FOR LUBRICATION, SUPPLIES

Engine, gearbox and primary drive lubricating oil AGIP RACING 4T (10W-60) Engine coolant AGIP COOL Brake system fluid AGIP BRAKE 4 (DOT 4) Clutch fluid

SAE 10 MINERAL OIL FOR HYDRAULIC SYSTEM

Grease lubrication Transmission oil Oil and oil filter replacement.......1,5 imp.quarts/1,8 u.s. quarts Oil replacement ..........................1,3 imp.quarts/1,6 u.s. quarts

AGIP BIKE GREASE

Final drive chain lubrication

AGIP CHAIN LUBE

Front fork oil AGIP FORK 7,5 (SAE 7,5) (for hard climatic conditions SAE 5) Oil for rear shock absorber AGIP FORK 2,5 (SAE 2,5) Electric contact protection

AGIP CONTACT CLEANER

Fillers for radiator

AREXONS LIQUID STOPWATER

FUEL COCK The left-side tap (2), is a screw tap: screw the ring nut (A) to close the tap, loosen the ring nut to open the tap. WARNING*: Be careful not to touch the hot engine while operating the fuel valve. A fuel filter is incorporated in the fuel valves. Accumulation of dirt in the filter will restrict the flow of the fuel to the carburetor. Therefore, the fuel filter should be serviced periodically. 1 Loosen the input plug (1) on the fuel tank and close the tap; 2 Remove the fuel hose (3) from the carburetor and insert the hose in a vessel; 3 Open the tap and drain the fuel out of the tank; 4 Remove the fuel valve by removing the screws. Wash the fuel screen filter in cleaning solvent; 5 Reassemble the fuel valve in the reverse order of removal. Open the tap and check for leaks.

1. Fuel tank cap

2. Fuel cock

3. Fuel hose

SIDESTAND Every scooter features a central stand (1) and a side stand (2). FUEL Recommended fuel: premium grade unleaded fuel. (R.O.N. 98). WARNING*: The stand is designed to support the weight of the MOTORCYCLE ONLY. Do not sit on the motorcycle using the stand for support as this could cause structural failure to the stand and could cause serious bodily injury. Note*: If "knocking" or "pinging" occurs, try a different brand of gasoline or higher octane grade. WARNING*: Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke or allow flames or sparks in the area where the motorcycle is refueled or gasoline is stored. WARNING*: Do not continue operation if the engine pings or knocks. The engine will be damaged and could seize. WARNING*: Do not overfill the tank. After refueling, make sure the tank cap (3) is closed securely.

CARBURETTOR CHOKE The starter knob, located on the left side of the carburetor, is used to enrich the mixture during the engine start. Pull out the knob to open the starter, and pull the lever upwards to close it. The carburetor is equipped with two knobs:

1) BLACK KNOB: COLD start (°)

2) RED KNOB: WARM start (°)

THROTTLE CONTROL The throttle knob (1), is located on the right hand side of the handlebar. The position of the throttle control can be adjusted by loosening the two fastenig screws. CAUTION Do not forget to tighten the screws (A) after the adjustment.

FRONT BRAKE CONTROL

The brake control lever (2) is located on the right hand side of the handlebar. The position of the throttle control can be adjusted by loosening the two fastenig screws . CAUTION Do not forget to tighten the screws (B) after the adjustment.

The motor starter pushbutton (1) is on the right of the handlebar, next to the front brake control. On the left side of the handlebar, near the clutch control, is located the engine stop button (2) .

CLUTCH CONTROL The hydraulic clutch control lever is located on the left-hand side of the handlebar and is protected against dirt with a rubber guard. The clutch control position on the handlebar can be adjusted by loosening the lower fastening screw (A). CAUTION Do not forget to tighten the screw after the adjustment.

The rear brake control (1) is placed on the right-hand side of the motorcycle. The lever (2) is placed on the left-hand side of the engine. The operator must release the lever after each gear change to allow it to return to its central position before another gear change can be made. Neutral position (N) is between first (low) and second gears. First gear is engaged by pushing the lever downwards; all the other gears are engaged, by pushing the lever upwards. The position of the gear shift lever on the shaft can be varied by: loosening screw; pulling lever out; placing lever in new position on the shaft when the operation is over tighten the screw and then tightening the screw. CAUTION*: Do not shift gears without disengaging the clutch and closing the throttle. The engine could be damaged by overspeed and shock. WARNING*: Do not downshift when traveling at a speed that would force the engine to overrev in the next lower gear, or cause the rear wheel to lose traction. N: Neutral

BEFORE EVERY RIDE MAKE FOLLOWING CHECKS

WARNING! Before each ride, to prevent accidents or failures during ride, make sure to go through following list.

1. Check all fluids

A. Engine-transmission oil level. B. Fuel level. C. Coolant level. Make sure all caps are properly adjusted. WARNING*: Don’t remove radiator cap when hot!

2. Check all controls

A. Throttle handgrip. B. Clutch lever . Make sure cables are not damaged and turn smoothly.

3. Check brakes

Look for brake fluid leaks and worn hoses. Check for proper functioning.

4. Check suspensions

Compress fork and rear suspensions. Look for oil leaks and ensure proper functioning.

5. Check wheels

Check spokes and look for worn bearings. Check rims and tyres. Check tyre pressure.

6. Check chain rollers and sprockets

Check wear on chain rollers and sprockets. Ensure chain is correctly adjusted and lubricated.

7. Check air filter and intake system

Check that air filter is clean. Check all rubber connections and clamps.

8. Check exhaust system

Check hook up, look for cracks. Check mufflers.

9. Check torque

A. Spark plug. B. Cylinder-head nuts. C. General check of torque.

10. Check steering action

Check bearing play. WARNING*: Failure to perform these checks every day before you ride may result in serous damage or a severe accident. RUNNIN IN Before using the motorcycle for sporting activities run in the engine for two hours at least to increase the life and the performance of the engine. During the first half-hour of driving we advise keeping a low speed and avoiding sudden accelerations. Never open the throttle fully. Change the oil and carry out all the necessary maintenance operations. After the first half-hour of driving, lightly increase the rev number, but never run the engine at full throttle. Never keep low speeds when the high gears are inserted. Slowly drive the motorcycle for two hours before using it for sporting activities.

CHECKS WHILE RUNNING IN

- SPOKE TENSION OF WHEELS (see page 55); - TIGHTENING OF WHEELS; - FORK PIN TIGHTENING; - CHAIN ADJUSTMENT (see page 37); - STEERING BEARING PLAY (see page 26); - HANDLEBAR TIGHTENING; - ENGINE GRIP TO FRAME; - SUCTION FITTING GRIP; - HEAD AND CYLINDER NUTS GRIP; OFTEN CHECK THE BATTERY CHARGE CONDITION (see page 59).

RIDING ENGINE START Proceed as follows:

1) make sure the fuel tap (A) is in the Open position.

2) shift gear pedal (1) in neutral position;

3) pull the starter knob on the carburetor (BLACK knob 2 for

cold starting *, RED knob 3 for warm starting);

4) lower the starter pedal (4).

BEFORE MOVING OFF, DEACTIVATE THE KNOB

OF THE STARTER ON THE CARBURETTOR. *: after a prolonged inactivity of the motorcycle or in presence of a low external temperature.

STARTING DECOMPRESSOR

Though the engine is provided with an automatic decompressor, can be necessary, in some cases (carburetor flooding or starting difficulties due to a battery inadequate charge), to use the manual starting decompressor on the L.H. side of the handlebar. In these cases, pull the lever (5) whilst simultaneously pressing the starter button, release the lever (5) keeping the button pressed and afterwards release the latter as well. In order to adjust the lever decompressor free play (approximately 3 mm- 0.12 in.), the lever holder is provided with the adjuster (6); the adjustment can be also effected with the tightener (7) on the R.H. side of the engine (use this tightener if it is not possible to obtain the correct free play with the adjuster on the handlebar).

IMPORTANT NOTE IN CASE OF COLD STARTS AT LOW TEMPERATURES It is recommended to briefly warm-up the engine at idle until, after having disengaged the starter (3), there is a normal response from the engine when opening the throttle. In this way the oil can reach all the surfaces needing lubrication and the coolant will reach the necessary temperature for correct engine function. Avoid overheating the engine.

IMPORTANT Never accelerate the engine after a cold start. WARNING*: Exhaust contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas. Never run the engine in a closed garage or in a confined area. - Close the throttle (1) completely so that the engine will help slow down the motorcycle. - For normal braking, gradually apply both front and rear brakes while down shifting (for maximum deceleration, apply the front and rear brakes firmly). - When stopped, pull the clutch lever and shift gear lever (2) in neutral position. - Press the engine stop RED button (3). - Close the fuel cock (4). WARNING*: Independent use of the front or rear brake may be advantageous under certain conditions. Use caution when using the front brake, especially on slippery surfaces. Improper use of the brakes can lead to a serious crash..

WARNING*: In the event of stuck throttle or other malfunction which causes the engine to run uncontrollably, IMMEDIATELY depress the engine stop button and hold it down. Control the motorcycle by normal use of the brakes and steering while holding the engine stop button down

STOPPING THE MOTORCYCLE AND THE ENGINE

CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL

Keeping the motorbike level and in a vertical position, check the oil level through the inspection (1) window on the right crankcase. Make sure the level is in between the MIN and MAX notches. To fill up, remove the filler cap (2). Note*: Have this operation made with warmed-up engine. WARNING*: Be careful not to touch hot engine oil.

ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT AND BAG FILTERS-FILTER CARTRIDGE CLEANING OR REPLACEMENT WARNING*: Be careful not to touch hot engine oil. Drain the oil with WARM ENGINE; proceed as follows: remove oil filler cap (2); remove the engine guard; place an oil drain pan under the engine block; remove the oil drain cap (3); drain the used oil completely then clean the magneto on the cap; MAX MIN

remove the three filters (5), (6) and (7) on the L.H. side of the engine, check O-Rings for wear then clean filters with fuel; reassemble using the reverse procedure; in order to replace the filter cartridge (4), remove the right side engine guard), unscrew the three fastening screws then the filter cartridge cover; after filters replacement, reassemble the drain cap (3), the engine guard (A), the right side engine guard (B), then pour the recommended oil quantity.

Check level (1) in right-hand radiator when engine is cold (place the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground). The coolant should be approximately 10 mm above cells. The radiator cap is provided of two unlocking positions, the first being for the previous pressure discharge in the cooling system. WARNING Avoid removing radiator cap when engine is hot, as coolant may spout out and cause scalding. NOTE Difficulties may arise in eliminating coolant from varnished surfaces. If this occurs, wash off with water.

REPLACEMENT OF COOLING FLUID

Place a vessel on the R.H. side of the cylinder, under the coolant drain screw (1). FIRST remove the screw (1) then SLOWLY open the R.H. radiator cap (2); slope the motorcycle on the right side to drain the coolant easily in the vessel. Reassemble the screw (1). Pour the necessary quantity of coolant in the radiator then warm up the engine in order to eliminate any possible air bubble.

COOLANT LEVEL CHECK

Periodically check the connecting hoses (see “Periodical maintenance card”): this will avoid coolant leakages and consequent engine seizure: If hoses (A) show cracks, swelling or hardenings due to sheats desiccation, their replacement shall be advisable. Check the correct tightening of the clamps (B).

THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT

NOTE To check the correct adjustment of the throttle operate as follows: - remove the upper rubber cap (1); - by moving cable (2) back and forth check for 2 mm. clearance; - should the clearance be incorrect, unblock the counter ringnut (3) and turn the adjusting screw (4) (by unscrewing it, the clearance is reduced, while by screwing screw (4) it is increased); - tighten the counter ring-nut again (3). In case of throttle control cables (1) and (2) replacement it is necessary to respect, during reassembly, the measure Á (10mm/0.4 in.), as shown in the picture. Then reassemble guard cover (B) using screw (3) and adjust throttle control cables on handlebar as described at side. To replace throttle control cables, first remove tha fuel tank as shown on page 25. WARNING*: Operation with damaged throttle cable could result in an unsafe riding condition. WARNING*: Exhaust gas contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas. Never run the engine in a closed area or in a confined area.

ADJUSTING THE CARBURETTOR

Adjust the carburettor with warm engine and with the throttle in closed position. Work as follows: - Turn slow running adjusting screw (1) on the left side of the bike, , until the engine is turning over at fairly high rpm (turn the screw clockwise to increase the rpm, and anticlockwise to descrease the rpm). - Turn adjusting screw (2) clockwise until the fully closed position is reached then turn back 1+1/2 turn. - progressively loosen adjusting screw (1) to obtain the slow running required.

ADJUSTING THE IDLE

Adjust the carburetor with warm engine and with the throttle control in closed position. Proceed as follows: - turn slow running adjusting screw (1) on the left side of the bike, near the fuel cock (turn the screw clockwise to increase the rpm, and anticlockwise to descrease the rpm).

SPARK PLUG CHECK

Use NGK CR9EKB spark plug (2); the gap is 0,0315 in. A wider gap may cause difficulties in starting engine and in overloading coil. A gap that is too narrow may cause difficulties when accelerating, when idling the engine or when performing at low speeds. Clean the dirt away from the base of the spark plug before removing it from the cylinder after removing the cap (1). It is very useful to examine the state of the spark plug just after it has been removed from the engine since the deposits on the plug and the colour of the insulator provide useful indications. Correct heat rating: The tip of the insulator should be dry and the colour should be light brown or grey. High heat rating: In this case, the insulator tip is dry and covered with dark deposits. Low heat rating: In this case, the spark plug is overheated and insulator tip is vitreous, white or grey in colour. Before refitting the plug, thoroughly clean the electrodes and the insulator using a brass-metal brush. Apply a little graphite grease to the spark plug thread; fit and screw the spark plug by hand then tighten to the torque of 10÷12 Nm. Loosen the spark plug then tighten it again to the torque of 10÷12 Nm. Spark plugs which have cracked insulators or corroded electrodes should be replaced. CAUTION*: Select a spark plug with a “colder” or “hotter” heat range carefully and cautiously. A spark plug with too hot a heat range may lead to preignition and possible engine damage. A spark plug with too cold a heat range may foul as the result of too much carbon buildup. VOLTAGE REGULATOR The voltage regulator (3) is fitted to the right side of the chassis, on the front.

AIR FILTER AND CLEANING

ASSEMBLY Turn rear pin (1) counterclockwise, remove the saddle from the front afstening screw. Wash the filter with a specific detergent (AGIP Filter clean foam air detergent fluid” or similar) then dry it fully (wash filter with gasoline only in case of necessity). Plunge the filter in special oil for filters (AGIP "Foam air filter protection oil" or similar), then wring it to drain superfluous oil. To ensure tight fit, slightly (C) grease filter edge on side facing filter housing. While re-inserting the filter into its housing, make surs that piece A is turned upwards and edge B is on the left lower side of the filter case. Reassemble the parts previously removed. Remove screw (3) and the filter (4). Separate filter (5) from frame (6). CAUTION*: Do not use gasoline or a low flash-point solvent to clean the element. A fire or explosion could result.

CAUTION*: If the element assembly is not installed correctly, dirt and dust may enter and the engine resulting in rapid wear of the piston rings and cylinder. CAUTION*: Clean the element in a well ventilated area, and do not allow sparks or flames anywhere near the working area.

STEERING WHEEL BALL PLAY ADJUSTMENT

To ensure maximum safety, the steering wheel should always be regulated so that the handlebars steering the motorcycle rotate freely without play. To check steering wheel adjustment, place kick stand or other support under the engine so that the front wheel is raised from ground. Place slight pressure on the tips of the handlebars to rotate steering wheel; the handlebars should also rotate without effort. Stand in front of the motorcycle and grasp the lower end of the fork rods sliders moving them in the direction of their axis. Lie down in front of the scooter, grasp the lower ends of the fork stems and move them at right angles with their centreline. If play is noticed, proceed with adjustment as follows: Loosen steering sleeve nut (1). Loosen four screws that fix steering head to fork rods (3). Turn the steering ring nut (2) clockwise of the steering sleeve proper tool, to adjust play properly. Tighten steering sleeve nut (1) to a torque setting of 8÷9 Kgm. (78,4÷88,3 Nm). Tighten four screws on the steering head (3) to a torque of 22,5÷26,5 Nm (2,3÷2,7 Kgm). LOCK ADJUSTMENT The lock can be changed, using the adjusting units on the sides of the steering tube, as follows: loosen the ring nut (1) and turn the adjusting screw (2) until you have the desired angle, then tighten the ring nut again (1). Change by the same amount on both sides. CAUTION*: Do not ride a motorcycle with damaged steering stem bearings. An unsafe handling condition can result. NOTE The angle of the steering column can be changed, using the bushes shown on page 75, as described.

The handlebar lever can be adjusted to suit the driver's hand size. To bring the lever closer to the grip, turn the adjuster (1) ANTICLOCKWISE; to move the lever farther from the grip, turn the adjuster (1) CLOCKWISE. The level of the fluid in the pump tank must never drop below the minimum (2), as shown on the transparent tank. WARNING*: If the brake lever feels “mushy” when it is applied, there may be air in the brake lines or the brake may be defective. Since it is dangerous to operate the motorcycle under such conditions, have the brake checked immediately by an authorized HUSQVARNA dealer. CAUTION*: Do not spill brake fluid on to any painted surface or lenses (ex.of head-light) CAUTION*: Do not mix two brands of fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line if you wish to switch to another fluid brand. CAUTION*: Brake fluid may cause irritation. Avoid contact with skin or eyes. In case of contact, flush thoroughly with water and call a doctor if your eyes were exposed. A decrease of the fuel level will let air into the sustem, hence an extension of the level stroke.

REAR BRAKE PEDAL POSITION ADJUSTMENT

The position of the rear foot brake pedal (3) as to the footrest may be adjusted according to the individual needs. For the adjusting proceed as follows: - loosen the screw (1); - turn the cam (2) in order to adjust the brake pedal idle stroke (A); - the operation done, tighten the screw (1). The adjusting operation carried out, adjust the idle stroke of the pedal, as follows.

REAR BRAKE IDLE STROKE ADJUSTMENT

The rear brake foot pedal (1) should have a (B) di 5 mm idle stroke before starting the true braking action. Should this not happen as follows: - loosen nut (3); - operate the pump rod (4) to increase or decrease the idle stroke; - tighten nut (3) at the end of the operation (3). WARNING When the idle stroke figures are not met, the brake pads will be subjected to a fast wear that may bring to the TOTAL BRAKE INEFFECTIVENESS.

The level (A) must be set between the pump tank notches.

ADJUSTMENT OF THE CONTROL LEVER AND

CHECK OF THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL - by keeping the master cylinder (3) in horizontal position, check the fluid level is NOT BELOW 4 mm (0.16 in.) from the upper surface (D) of the pump body; - if necessary, add fluid until the correct level is reached see TABLE FOR LUBRICATION-SUPPLIES for the fluid type page 8. CAUTION*: NEVER use brake fluid. Reassembly the removed parts using the reverse procedure. Periodically check the connecting hose (see “Periodical maintenance card”): if the hose (C) show is bent or cracked, its replacement is advised. Free play (A) must be at least 3 mm (0.1 in.). The lever position can be adjusted for any driver hand size. To decrease the lever distance from the handle grip, rotate the adjuster (B) CLOCKWISE. To increase the lever distance from the handle grip, rotate the adjuster (B) COUNTERCLOCKWISE. To check the fluid level, proceed as follows: - remove screws (1), cover (2) and rubber pump diaphragm on the handlebar clutch control;

CHECKING THE FLUID LEVEL

HYDRAULIC CLUTCH BLEEDING

Proceed as follows: - remove screws (1), cap (2) and rubber pump diaphragm; - remove the bleeding nipple (3); - mount a syringe in the bleeding nipple hole, then refill with fresh fluid see LUBRICATION TABLE on page 8. The fluid level MUST NEVER BE below 4 mm from the top (A) of the clutch pump body (see picture). Reassemble the removed parts. . CAUTION *: NEVER use brake fluid. - refill until fluid is discharged from the lower hole (B) on the pump body WITHOUT BUBBLES.

The following information is a useful guide for setting up the suspensions according to the road conditions. Always start from the standard calibration before making any change on the suspensions. Afterwards, increase or decrease the adjusting clicks one at a time. HARD GROUND Fork: softer compression adjustment. Shock absorber: softer compression adjustment. The softer adjustment for the two suspensions is also used both in compression and in extension when driving at top speed, in order to have better grip of the tires. MUDDY GROUND Fork: have a harder compression adjustment, or replace the standard spring with a harder one. Shock absorber: have a harder compression and extension adjustments, or replace the standard spring with a harder one. Work on the spring preload to lift the motorcycle rear side. We advise replacing the springs of both suspensions to compensate the weight increase due to the piling of the mud. NOTE: When the fork results as either too soft or too hard for any adjustment conditions, check the oil level inside the forkrod. The level can either be too low or too high. Remember that too much oil inside the fork will involve a more frequent air drainage. When the suspensions do not react to the changes of calibration, check that the adjusting units are not blocked. The standard calibrations and the adjustment procedures are shown on the next pages. SANDY GROUND Fork: have a harder compression adjustment, or replace the standard spring with a harder one, and make a softer compression adjustment and a harder extension adjustment at the same time. Shock absorber: have a harder compression, and expecially a harder extension adjustment. Work on the spring preload to lower the motorcycle rear side.

ADJUSTING THE SUSPENSIONS ACCORDING TO

PARTICULAR TRACK CONDITIONS

ADJUSTING THE COMPRESSION FORK

a) COMPRESSION (LOWER REGISTER) Standard calibration: -15 clicks. Remove plug (B) and turn register (A) clockwise until the position of fully closed is reached then, turn back by the mentioned clicks.To obtain a smoother braking action, turn the register anticlockwise. Reverse the operation in order to obtain a harder action.

b) EXTENSION (UPPER REGISTER) Standard calibration: -15 clicks. To reset standard calibration turn register (C) clockwise to reach the position of fully closed; then, turn back by the mentioned clicks. To obtain a smoother braking action, turn the register anticlockwise. Reverse the operation in order to obtain a harder action. c) AIR VENT (to carry out after each competition, or monthly). Place the vehicle on a central stand, pull the fork all out, then remove the cap (E) and press the valve with a tip. Fit the cap back in. WARNING! NEVER loosen the screw (F).

WARNING: Never force the adjusting screws

beyond the maximum opening and closure positions.

For the regular fork operation, both legs must be provided with the necessary oil quantity. NOTE Always replace both the spring and the spacers to keep the preload value unchanged.

OIL FORK LEVEL

HANDLEBAR POSITION CHANGE

The handlebar can be moved to suit your driving style. To effect these operations, remove the upper screw (3), upper clamp (1), lower screw (4) then lower clamp (2).

Turn the lower clamp (2) 180° to move forward or backward (10mm- 0.04in.) the handlebar position with respect to the original setup. Once these operations are completed, tighten the screws (3) to 2,75-3,05 kgm (27-30 Nm; 19.9-22 Lb/fts) and the screws (4) to 2,0-2,2 kgm (19,6-21,6 Nm; 14.5-15.9 Lb/fts). The rear shock absorber must be adjusted according to the rider weight and track conditions. Proceed as follows:

1. With motorcycle on the stand, measure distance (A).

2. Take the normal riding position on the motorcycle with all

your riding apparel.

3. With somebody’s help, take the new distance (A).

4. The difference between these two measurements constitutes

the “SAG” of the motorcycle’s rear end. Suggested SAG: 4 in. with cold shock absorber. 3.7 in. with warmed up shock absorber.

5. To get the right SAG according to your weight, adjust the

shock absorber spring preload as described at side. WARNING*: Never disassemble shock absorber, which contains highly compressed nitrogen. Contact your Dealer for such major service. Do not incinerate. B: axis of the panel screw C: axis of rear wheel pin

ADJUSTING THE SHOCK ABSORBER SPRING

PRELOAD Proceed as follows:

1. First turn counterclockwise fastening rear pin (1) then remove saddle, screws (2) and R.H. side panel (3).

2. Clean the adjusting ring nut (3) of the spring (4).

3. Using a 4-mm T-shaped spanner, loosen the screw (2) of the

4. Turn the adjusting nut as required.

5. When the adjusting operation is over (according to your

weight and riding style), fasten the screw tight (2).

6. Reassemble R.H. side panel and saddle.

WARNING*: Be careful not to touch hot exhaust pipe while adjusting the shock abosrber.

SHOCK ABSORBER DAMPING ADJUSTMENT

Adjustment of the compression stroke is independent from the rebound stroke. A) COMPRESSION - Standard calibration:

1) Low damping speed:

- 15 clicks (± 2clicks) (register 1) B) EXTENSION - Standard calibration: - 18 clicks (± 2 clicks) To reset the standard calibration, turn lower register (3) clockwise until reaching fully closed position. Return then back for the mentioned clicks. In order to obtain a smooth braking action, turn the register anticlockwise. Reverse the operation in order to obtain a harder braking action.

2) High damping speed:

- 15 clicks (± 2 clicks) (register 2) To reset the standard calibration, turn upper registers (1) and (2) clockwise until reaching fully closed position. Return then back for the mentioned clicks. In order to obtain a smooth braking action, turn the registers anticlockwise. Reverse the operation in order to obtain a harder braking action.

Chain should be checked, adjusted and lubricated as per the Maintenance Chart to ensure security and prevent excessive wear. If the chains becomes badly worn or is poorly adjusted (i.e., if it is too loose or too taught), it could escape from sprocket or break. To adjust the rear chain it is necessary to lower the rear part of motorcycle so to line up the drive sprocket axle, the rear swing arm axle and the rear wheel axle as shown on drawing. Than let turn three times the rear wheel. Now the chain should not be tight. (Fig. A). Fast adjustment (Fig. B) In the point shown in the figure, fit a bush (a), 35 mm diameter (or alternatively a shim in the same size) and make sure the lower branch (C) of the chain is slightly taut. If it is not, proceed as follows: - on the right side, with a 27 mm Allen screwdriver, loosen the locking nut (1) of the wheel pin; - with a 12 mm screwdriver, loosen the check nuts (2) on both chain stretchers and work on the screws (3) to achieve the right tension; - when the adjustment is over, tighten the check nuts (2) and the wheel pin nut (1). When the adjustment is over check the wheel for alignment. Fig. B

A = 0÷2 mm (0÷0.08 in.) Fig. A

Rear swing arm axle Rear wheel axle

CHECKING THE WEAR OF CHAIN, PINION AND SPROCKET Proceed as follows: - fully stretch the chain with the adjusting screws. - mark 20 chain links. - measure the distance “A” between 1st pin center and 21 st pin center. STANDARD 317,5 mm WEAR LIMIT 323 mm Check the pinion damages or wear and replace it should the wear degree be as the one shown in figure. Remove the wheel and check the wear of the rear sproket teeth. The below figure shows the outline of teeth in normal and excessive wear. Should the sprocket be badly worn out, replace it by loosening the six fastening screws to the hub. WARNING*: Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may result in an unsafe riding condition. Note*: In muddy and wet conditions, mud sticks to the chain and sprockets resulting in an overtight chain. The pinion, the chain, and the rear sprocket wheel wear increases when running on muddy ground.

LUBRICATING THE CHAIN

Lubricate the chain following these instructions. WARNING * : Never use grease to lubricate the chain. Grease helps to accumulate dust and mud, which act as abrasive and hepl to rapidly wear out the chain, the sprocket, and the crown. Disassembling and cleaning When particularly dirty, remove and clean the chain before lubrication. Work as follows:

1 - Set a stand or a block under the engine and see that the

rear wheel is lifted from the ground. Remove: screws (1), transmission sprocket guard (2), clip (3), master link and transmission chain (4); To reassemble, reverse the above procedure. Normal consumpion

Excessive consumption

Washing the chain without OR ( ) Wash using either oil or diesel oil. When using gasoline or tricloroetilene, clean and lubricate the chain to prevent oxidation.

Washing the chain with OR Wash using oil, diesel oil, or paraffin oil. Never use gasoline, tricloroetilene, or solvents, as the OR may suffer damages. Use instead special sprays for chains with OR. Lubricating the chain with OR Lubricate all metallic and rubber (OR) elements using a brush, and use engine oil with SAE 80-90 viscosity for the internal and external parts. WARNING*: The chain oil has NEVER to get in contact with the tires or the rear brake disk.

5 - If the chain has been cut, reassemble using a joint.

6 - Assemble the joint spring (a) by turning the closed side to

the chain direction of rotation as shown in figure below. Chain tension rollers, chain driving roller, chain guide, chain runner Check the wear of the above mentioned elements and replace them when necessary. NOTE *: Even if all the joints are reusable when in good conditions, for safety purposes we advise using new joints when reassembling the chain.

7- Accurately adjust the chain as described on page 37.

2 - Check that the chain is neither worn out nor damaged. If

the rollers or the links are damaged, replace the chain by following the instructions given in the Periodical Maintenance Table.

3 - Check that neither the sprocket nor the crown are damaged.

4 - Wash and clean the chain as described hereunder.

WARNING*: Check the chain guide alignement, and remember that a bent element can cause a rapid wear of the chain. In this case, a chain fleeting from the sprocket may ensue. Lubricating the chain without OR ( ) First dry, then plunge the chain in a bisulphide molybdenum lubricant, or in high viscosity engine oil. Warm up the oil before use.

1- Chain tension roller

2- Chain driving roller

3- Chain guide

4- Chain slider

REMOVING THE FRONT WHEEL

Set a stand or a block under the engine and see that the front wheel is lifted from the ground. Remove the two screws (A) and the brake caliper. Loosen the bolts (1) holding the wheel axle (2) to the front fork stanchions. Hold the head of the wheel axle in place, unscrew the bolt (3) on the opposite side; draw the wheel axle out. NOTES Do not operate the front brake lever when the wheel has been removed; this causes the caliper piston to move outwards. After removal, lay down the wheel with brake disc on top . SMR-R

SMR-R Fit the L.H. spacer on the wheel hub. Fit the wheel between the front fork legs. Fit the wheel axle (2) from the R.H. side, after greasing it and push it to the stop on the L.H. leg; during this operation, the wheel should be turned. Tighten the screw (3) on the fork L.H. side but DO NOT lock it. Now, pump for a while, pushing the handlebar downwards until you are sure that the fork legs are perfectly aligned. Lock: the screws (1) on the R.H. leg (10,4 Nm/ 1,05 Kgm/ 7.7 ft-lb), the screw (3) on the L.H. side (51,45 Nm/ 5,25 Kgm/ 38 ft-lb), the screws (1) on the L.H. leg (10,4 Nm/ 1,05 Kgm/ 7.7 ft-lb). Fit the brake caliper on the disc; assemble the caliper on its holding plate and tighten the screws (A) at 25,5 Nm/ 2,6 Kgm/ 18.8 ft-lb. Check that the brake disc slides between the caliper pads without any friction.

NOTE After reassembly, pump the brake control lever until the pads are against the brake disc.

REMOVING THE REAR WHEEL

Unscrew the nut (1) of the wheel pin (3) and extract it. It is not necessary to unloose the chain adjusters (2); in this way, the chain tension will remain unchanged after the reassembly. Extract the complete rear wheel, by taking care of the spacers located at the hub sides. To reassemble, reverse the above procedure remembering to insert the disc into the caliper. NOTES Do not operate the rear brake pedal when the wheel has been removed; this causes the caliper piston to move outwards. After removal, lay down the wheel with brake disc on top. After reassembly, pump the brake control pedal until the pads are against the brake disc.

TIRES Care should be taken to keep the tires properly inflated. See tire data for correct tire inflation pressure (page 8). The mayor components are brake master cylinder with its lever (front) or pedal (rear), brakeline, caliper assembly and disc. LEGEND

1. Front brake control lever

2. Front brake pump

3. Front brake hose

4. Front brake caliper

5. Front brake disc

6. Rear brake oil tank

7. Rear brake hose

8. Rear brake caliper

9. Rear brake disc

10. Rear brake pump

11. Rear brake control pedal

PADS WEAR a) In front: thickness “A” must never be lower than the one pointed out by the wear control notches. b) At the back: thickness “A” must never be lower than 3,8 mm. If service limit is exceeded, always replace the pads in pairs.

BRAKE PADS REMOVAL

- Remove springs (1). - Remove pins (2). - Remove pads. CAUTION! Don't operate the brake lever or pedal while removing the pads. SMR-R

FRONT REAR Be careful that no disc brake fluid or any oil gets on brake pads or discs. Clean off any fluid or oil that inadverently gets on the pads or disc with alcohol. Replace the pads with new ones if they cannot be cleaned satisfactorily. WARNING! Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until the brake lever or pedal are fully effective. Pump the brake lever or pedal until the pads are against the discs. The brake will not function on the first application of the lever or pedal.

PADS CLEANING PADS INSTALLATION - Install new brake pads. - Reassemble the two pins (2) and the springs (1). SMR-R

BRAKE DISC WEAR

Measure the thickness of each disc at the point where it has worn the most. Replace the disc if it has worn past the service limit. DISC WARPAGE Measure disc warpage. Service limit for both discs is 0,15 mm (0.006 in.) Replace the disc if warpage is more than service limit. Disc Thickness DISC STANDARD SERVICE LIMIT Front 5 mm 4,5 mm Rear 4 mm 3,5 mm SMR-R

FLUID CHANGE Poor braking can also be caused by oil on the disc. Oil or grease on the disc must be cleaned off with a high flash-point oil free solvent, such as acetone or lacquer thinner. The brake fluid should be checked and changed in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart or whenever it is contaminated with dirt or water. Don't change the fluid in the rain or when a strong wind is blowing.

DISC CLEANING CAUTION!

• Use only brake fluid from a sealed container (DOT 4). Never use old brake fluid.
• Never allow contaminants (dirt, water, etc.) to enter the brake fluid reservoir.
• Don't leave the reservoir cap off any length of time to avoid moisture contamination of the fluid.
• Handle brake fluid with care because it can damage paint.
• Don't mix two types of fluid for use in the brake. This lowers the brake fluid boiling point and could cause the brake to be ineffective. It may also cause the rubber brake part to deteriorate.

To replace the fluid, proceed as follows: - Remove the rubber cap on the bleeding valve (1) or (1A). - Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeding valve on the brake caliper and turn the other end of the hose into a container. - Remove fluid reservoir cap (2)or (2A: 21 mm wrench) and the rubber. - Loosen bleeding valve on the brake caliper.

- Restore the brake fluid level (A) or (B) then reassemble the rubber and the fluid reservoir cap, both in front and at the back.

- Pump with brake lever (3) or brake pedal (3A) in order to push brake fluid out of line. - Close the bleeding valve and fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid. - Open the bleeding valve, apply the brake using the brake lever or pedal, close the bleeding valve with the brake lever or pedal applied and then quickly release the lever or pedal. - Repeat this operation until the brake line is filled and clear fluid starts coming out of the plastic hose: now close the bleeding valve. After the brake fluid replacement, it is necessary to operate the braking system bleeding (see pages 51 and 52).

WARNING! Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely wiped up immediately.

• Brake fluid may cause irritation. Avoid contact with skin or eyes. In case of contact, flush thoroughly and call a doctor if your eyes were exposed. Periodically check the connecting hoses (see “Periodical maintenance card”): if the hoses (A) and (B) are worned or cracked, their replacement is advised.

The braking system must be bled after the fluid replacement or when, due to air in the circuit, the lever stroke is long and spongy. Proceed as follows: - Remove the rubber cap on the bleeding valve (1 or 1A). - Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeding valve on the brake caliper and turn the other end of the hose into a container (make sure that the end of the hose is submerged in brake fluid during the entire bleeding operation). - Remove fluid reservoir cap (2), the rubber and fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid. - Open the bleeding valve and pump with brake lever several times until the fluid, clear and without bubbles, comes out of the hose: now close the bleeding valve.

- Restore the brake fluid level (A) then reassemble the rubber and the fluid reservoir cap (2). WARNING! During the bleed operation the fluid level inside the reservoir must never be lower than the minimum level. Tightening torque for bleed valve is 1,2 ÷ 1,6 kgm (12 ÷ 16 Nm; 8.8 ÷ 11.8 ft-lb). As the braking fluid is a very corrosive substance, in the case it comes in contact with your eyes wash them abundantly with water. During the bleeding of the braking circuit keep the handlebar turned leftwards. This is the way to lift the pump tank and to make easier the bleeding of the braking system. If the lever stroke gets stretchy and the braking action results as poor in the case of falls during competitions, or after repair work in shops, repeat the bleeding operation described above.

FRONT BRAKING SYSTEM BLEEDING

The braking system must be bled after the fluid replacement or when, due to air in the circuit, the lever stroke is long and spongy. To drain the fluid, proceed as follows: - Remove the cover (A) of the tank (21-mm spanner), remove the diaphragm and fill with the fluid (DOT 4). As the bleeding operation does not fully eliminate the air inside the circuit, the small quantity of air remaining inside will be eliminated after a short time of use of the brake. In this case however, the action of the lever will be harder and the stroke shorter.

- Depress the pedal (2) and keep it full down. - Loosen the bleed union letting out fluid (at first, only air will come out), then, closing the union slightly. - Release the pedal and wait for a few seconds before repeating the operation until only fluid come out of the tube. - Close the bleed union to the prescribed torque and check the fluid level (B) inside the reservoir before reassemblle the cap (1). If the bleeding operation has be done correctly, the pedal will have no mushy feel. If not, repeat the operation. NOTE Should the motorcycle, due to a fall during a competition or shop repairs, show some elasticity of the brake lever stroke, with a subsequent braking efficiency decrease, you'll to repeat the circuit bleeding as above described. WARNING! During the bleed operation the fluid level inside the reservoir must never be lower than the minimum level. Tightening torque for bleed valve is 1,2 ÷ 1,6 kgm (12 ÷ 16 Nm; 8.8 ÷ 11.8 ft-lb).

- Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeding valve (1) on the brake caliper and turn the other end of the hose into a container EXHAUST MUFFLER The muffler reduces the noise of the exhaust gases, but it is an integral part of the exhaust as well. As such, its conditions affect the motorcycle performance. When the noise on the exhaust is too high, it means that the deadening material set on the holed tube inside the muffler is deteriorated. WARNING*: Check the deadening material after every competition and replace it if necessary. Remove the saddle after turning the locking back pin (1) anticlockwise, loosen the screws (2) with an 8-mm T-shaped spanner and remove the side panel (3) (do the same on the right side). Using an 8 mm T-shaped spanner on the outside and a 10 mm T-shaped spanner on the inside, remove the locking screw (4) of the muffler. Remove the spring (5) and pull out the muffler (A) o (B). Remove the four rear rivets (6), clamp and the exhaust terminal (7). Remove innner pipe and replace the deadening material. Reassemble L.H. side panel and saddle. NOTE*: When diffuculties are found in removing the muffler, lightly beat with a rubber or plastic hammer.

DEFORMATION RIM The tables hereunder show the type of control the rim and wheel axle are to be submitted to. Note*: if the rim is badly, it should be replaced. less than 0,5 mm (0.02 in) Eccentricity less than 0,8 mm (0.03 in) WHEEL SPOKES MAX. LIMIT 2 mm (0,078 in) Check to make sure that all the nipples are tight; tighten them if necessary. Remember that an insufficient stretch jeopardizes the motorcycle stability. For an instant check, use a metal point (for instance, a screwdriver) to beat the spokes with. A live sound accounts for an accurate tightening, while a dull sound means that a new tightening is necessary.

WHEEL RIM AXLE BENDING

If the bending figure is over the allowable max. limit, straighten or replace the axle. If the wheel axle cannot be straightened within the max. limits (0,2 mm - 0,008 in.) stated, replace it.

OVERHAULING THE WHEELS

IGNITION SYSTEM ELECTRIC SYSTEM The ignition system includes the following elements: - Generator (1) on the inner side of L.H. crankcase cover; - Electronic coil (2) under the fuel tank; - Electronic power unit C.D.I. (3) under the fuel tank; - Voltage regulator (4) under the fuel tank - Spark plug (5) on the R.H. side of cylinder head; - Starting motor 12V-450W (6) behind the cylinder - Electric start remote control switch (7) under the saddle. The electric system includes the following elements: - Battery 12V-6Ah (8) under the saddle; - Two 20A fuses (9) on the electric starter contactor (7).

Blue Brown Black Green Grey Orange Pink Red Sky blue Violet White Yellow KEY TO ELECTRIC SYMBOLS (page 58)

1. Electronic power unit

2. Alternator

3. Voltage regulator

5. Battery

6. Electric start remote control switch

7. Starting motor

8. Spark plug

9. Gear shift position sensor

10. H.T. coil

11. Sensor position throttle control

12. R.H. switch

13. Ignition switch

ELECTRIC START REMOTE CONTROL SWITCH

H.T. COIL

STARTING MOTOR IGNITION SWITCH

R.H. SWITCH

The sealed battery does not require any maintenance work. When electrolyte leaks, or other failures to the electrical system are detected, apply to the HUSQVARNA Dealer. If the vehicle remains unused for long periods, it is recommended to remove battery from electrical system and store it in a dry place. - After an intensive use of the battery, it’s advisable a standard low charge (12V-6Ah battery: 0.6A for 8 hours). - Rapid recharging is advised only in situations of extreme necessity since the life of lead elements is drastically reduced (6A for 0.5 hours with 12V-6Ah batteries). BATTERY CHARGER To gain access to the battery (2): - first turn counterclockwise fastening rear pin (1) then remove the saddle;

- first remove the BLACK or BLUE negative cable, then the RED positive cable (when reassembling, first connect the RED positive cable, then the BLACK or BLUE negative cable); - remove the battery (2) from its housing. Check, using a voltmeter, that battery voltage is not less than 12,5 V. If not, the battery needs to be charged. Using a battery charter with a constant voltage, first connect the RED positive cable to the battery’s positive terminal then the BLACK or BLUE negative cable to the battery’s negative terminal. Apply to the constant voltage of 14,4 V a current of “x” Ampere as results in the belowe diagram (depending on the amount of carging required). The voltage reaches a constant value only after a few hours, therefore it is suggested NOT to measure it immediately after having charged or discharged the battery. Always check the charge level bifore reinstalling it on the vehicle. The battery should be kept clean and the terminals coated with grease. WARNING*: The battery contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote: EXTERNAL - Flush with water. INTERNAl - Drink large quantities of water or milk. After milk take magnesia, beaten eggs or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately. Eyes: Flush with water for no less than 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention.

BATTERY WARNING*: Batteries produce explosive gas, ventilate when charging or using in enclosed space. When using a battery charger before turning on the charger. This procedure prevents sparks at the battery terminals which could ignite any battery gases.

STANDARD KIT-OPTIONAL PARTS (

1- 8000 A4349 Spark plug wrench (1)

2- 8000 66802 Box wrench 15x27mm (1)

3- 8000 96997 Front wheel pin wrench (1)

4- 8000 56920 Front wheel pin setscrew wrench (1)

5- 8000 H0888 User and service manual (1)

6- 8000 B0157 Central motor safety guard (1)

6A- 8000 60898 Screw M6x15 (4) 6B- 8000 46893 Nut M6 (4)

7- 8000 H0889 Shop manual (1)

8- 8000 H0890 Spare parts list (1)

9- 8000 A7817 Central stand (1)

10- 8000 74016 Side stand (1)

11- 8000 A4296 Carburettor kit KEIHIN 41 (1)

12- 8000 63829 Gearbox outlet pinion Z=14 (1)

13- 8G00 96837 Back rim Z=45 (1)

14- 8000 B1530 Hook kit for race start (1)

16- 8A00 B1781 Steering tube angle-adjusting bush (1)

16- 8B00 B1781 Steering tube angle-adjusting bush (2)

16- 8C00 B1781 Steering tube angle-adjusting bush(2)

16- 8D00 B1781 Steering tube angle-adjusting bush(1)

16- 8E00 B1781 Steering tube angle-adjusting bush (1)

16- 8F00 B1781 Steering tube angle-adjusting bush(1)

16- 8G00 B1781 Steering tube angle-adjusting bush (1)

17- 8000 B1214 Instructions for installation of steering tube angle-adjusting bushes

18- 8000 A8191 Clutch installation wrench

19- 8000 H0188 Right side engine guard (1)

19A- 8A00 67207 Bushing (4) 19B- 8000 62730 Screw, M6x25 mm (4) 19C- 8000 46893 Nut M6 (6)

20- 8000 H0187 Left side engine guard (1)

21- 8000 86328 HUSQVARNA dealers Guide (1)

22- 8000 B1277 Warranty multilanguage booklet (1)

23- 8000 B1278 STRAIGHT-type front brake control lever (1)

24- 8000 H0159 Battry case (1)

25- 8000 60898 Screw, M6x15 mm (4)

AFTER-RACE CHECK POINTS

After racing, first clean the motorcycle and then inspect the entire motorcycle, with special attention to the items listed in «MAINTENANCE» table (Appendix A), such as the air cleaner, carburetor, brakes, etc. Carry out general lubrication, and make adjustment as necessary. STORAGE When the motorcycle is to be stored for any length of time, is should be prepared for storage as follows: - Clean the entire motorcycle thoroughly. - first carry out the operation mentioned hereunder, then fill the tank with fuel mixed with a stabilizer: place the hose (1) in a basin, loosen the drain screw (2) set on the lower side of the basin, then drain the fuel and tighten the screw again. WARNING Never litter the environment with fuel, and let the engine running in open air, never in closed rooms. - Lubricate the drive chain and all the cables. - Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to prevent rusting. Avoid getting oil on rubber parts or in the brakes. - Set the motorcycle on a box or stand so that both wheels are raised off the ground. (If this cannot be done, put boards under the front and rear wheels to keep dampness away from the tire rubber). - Tie a plastic bag over the exhaust pipe to prevent moisture from entering. - Put a cover over the motorcycle to keep dust and dirt from collecting on it. To put the motorcycle back into the use after storage. - Make sure the spark plug is tight. - Fill the fuel tank. - Run the engine to warm the oil then drain the oil. - Put in fresh transmission oil (page 20). - Check all the points listed under the inspection and Adjustment Section (Appendix A). - Lubricate the points (listed in the Lubrication Section (Appendix A). CLEANING IMPORTANT RECOMMENDATION Premised that, before the motorcycle washing, it is necessary to protect opportunely from the water the following parts: a) Rear opening of the muffler; b) Clutch and brake levers, hand grips, handlebar commutators; c) Air cleaner intake; d) Fork head, wheel bearings; e) Rear suspension links, it is necessary ABSOLUTELY TO AVOID THAT HIGH PRESSURE JETS OF WATER OR AIR come to contact with THE ELECTRICAL PARTS AND FUEL INJECTION PARTS, especially the electronic control unit (1)

11) Preparation for washing

Before washing, precautions must be taken to keep water out of the following places:

• Rear opening of the muffler : - Cover with a plastic bag secured with rubber bands.
• Clutch and brake levers, hand grips, engine stop button: - Cover with plastic bags.
• Cir cleaner intake: - Close up the opening with tape, or stuff in rags.

2) Where to be careful

Avoid spraying water with any great force near the following places:

• CUnder the fuel tank: If water gets into the ignition coil or into the spark plug cap, the spark will jump through the water and be grounded out. When this happens,the motorcycle will not start and the affected parts must be wiped dry.
• C Fork head, wheel bearings.
• C Rear suspension links.

3) After washing

- Remove the plastic bags, and clean the air cleaner intake. - Lubricate the points listed in the Maintenance Table (Appendix A). - Briefly warm-up the engine - Test the brakes before riding the motorcycle.

WARNING* : Never wax or lubricate the brake disc. Loss of braking and an accident could result. Clean the disc with an oilless solvent such ans acetone. Observe the solvent warnings.

Engine oil Two-stroke mix oil level Coolant Cooling system Electric fans Spark plugs Throttle body / Carburettor Brakes / Clutch fluid Brakes / Clutch Brakes / Clutch Throttle control Throttle control Choke control Flexible controls and transm. Drive chain Check level Check level Check / Restore level Check for leakage Check operation Check / Replace Check and adjust Check level Check operation Check lines for leakage Check operation Check / Adjust play Check operation Check / Adjust Check / Adjust Tyres Side stand Side stand switch Electrical equipment Instrument panel Lights / Visual signals Horn Headlight Ignition switch Locks Screws and nuts Hose clamps General lubrication General test Operation Check pressure Check operation Check operation Check operation Check operation Check operation Check operation Check operation Check operation Check operation Check / Tighten Check / Tighten : only for motorcycles with 2 stroke engine : only for some models Pre-delivery HANDLEBAR The notches on the handlebar help with the installation, as shown in the Figure. FLUID RESERVOIR Check the level in the reservoir (1) at regular intervals: if the level is about 1/3 of max level, remove the plug (2) and drain the fluid. Afterwards, fit the plug back in.

ALPHABETIC INDEX Page

1. Bouchon reservoir carburant

2. Robinet carburant

3. Tuyanterie carburant

A = 0÷2 mm (0÷0.08 in.) Fig. A

Axe pignon Axe fourche Axe roue

REMPLACEMENT DU FLUIDE

KIT FOURNI-PIÈCES EN OPTION (

Prep. a la route Prep. a la route AUS: BR: CDN: CH:

USA: A = 0÷2 mm (0÷0.08 in.) Bild A

Ritzelachse Gabelachse Radachse

REVISION DES RADS

A = 0÷2 mm (0÷0.08 in.) Fig. A

Eje piñón Eje horquilla Eje rueda

SMR 450-R / 2009; 530-R / 2009