Chef's Choice CX125 - Sharpener GRAEF - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL Chef's Choice CX125 GRAEF

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EN Operating instructions

FR Mode d'emploi

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When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following:

• Read all instructions. Every user should read this manual.
• To protect against electrical hazards, do not immerse the Graef Model CX125 in water or other liquid.
• Make sure that only clean knife blades are inserted in Graef Model CX125.
• Unplug from outlet when not in use, before putting on or taking off parts and before cleaning.

- Avoid contacting moving parts.

- Do not operate any appliance with a damaged cord or plug or after the appliance malfunctions, or is dropped or damaged in any manner.

- Please return your sharpener to your local distributor where the cost of repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. If the supply cord is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer, its service agent or similarly qualified persons in order to avoid a hazard.

- The use of attachments not recommended or sold by Graef may cause fire, electric shock or injury.

- The Graef Model CX125 is designed to sharpen knives. Do not attempt to sharpen scissors, ax blades or any blade that does not fit freely in the slots.

- Do not let the cord hang over edge of table or counter or touch hot surfaces.

- When in the "ON" position (Red flash on switch is exposed when "ON"), the Graef sharpener should always be on a stable countertop or table.

- WARNING: KNIVES PROPERLY SHARPENED ON

YOUR Trizor XV® Model CX125 WILL BE SHARPER THAN YOU EXPECT. TO AVOID INJURY, USE AND HANDLE THEM WITH EXTREME CARE. DO NOT CUT TOWARD ANY PART OF YOUR FINGERS, HAND OR BODY. DO NOT RUN FINGER ALONG EDGE. STORE IN A SAFE MANNER.

• Do not use outdoors.
• Close supervision is necessary when any appliance is used by or near children. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
• Do not use honing oils, water or any other lubricant with the Graef Model CX125.
• For household use only.
• This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

The Graef Model CX125 is the world's first sharpener designed specially to create the exceedingly sharp and effective Trizor® edge on all household cutlery. The Trizor® edge gives you the superior edge durability of the Graef triple bevel edge while forming each of the major edge facets at 14 degrees (28° total) for a sharpness that artisans devoted lifetimes to develop the skills required to hand sharpen edges of this quality.

UNDERSTANDING THE TRIZOR EDGE

The Trizor® design uses multiple diamond abrasives of successively finer grits to shape the facets into a modified gothic arch to create an edge that has added strength, durability, and sharpness. The Trizor® edge is made by a three step sharpening, honing and stropping process but the major edge angle is set at 14° for added sharpness and effortless use.

You will appreciate the reduced effort in cutting and the enhanced sharpness. Remember the edge will be sharper than you expect.

GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE GRAEF MODEL CX125

The Graef Model CX125 is a three stage sharpener with 100% diamond abrasives in the first two stages to sharpen and hone the edge, followed in Stage 3 with the Graef proprietary stropping/polishing disks to create an astonishingly sharp edge.

You will find it easy to convert any of your household knives can be restored to factory-new condition in just minutes.

All traditional-single beveled knives such as sashimi knives require special care and must be sharpened primarily on one side of the edge. You will find you can also sharpen your serrated blades with the Graef Model CX125 by following the special instructions included on page 10.

The Graef Model CX125 retains the popular EdgeSelect® feature, introduced by Graef, which allows you to sharpen each knife according to your intended use, such as gourmet food preparation, butchering, dressing of game or of fish. The three stages can be used in different sequences, for example to give you either an astonishingly sharp, smooth faceted edge for effortless cutting or one with a selected amount of residual "bite" – ideal for cutting fibrous food, meats, stalky vegetables or dressing of game. This feature is described in detail in a following section.

Graef Model CX125 is equipped with a manually actuated diamond dressing system that can be used, when necessary, to clean any accumulated food or

sharpening debris from the surface of the ultrafine abrasive Stage 3 polishing/stropping disks. We strongly urge that you always thoroughly clean your knives before sharpening them. Unless you are a heavy user of the sharpener, you will be able to sharpen for months or even a year or more before you need to dress the stropping/polishing disks. Only if you sense a distinct decrease in polishing efficiency in Stage 3 is there any need to use this convenient feature described on page 10.

Never operate the sharpener from the back side. Use just enough downward pressure when sharpening to ensure uniform and consistent contact of the blade edge with the abrasive disks on each stroke. Additional pressure is unnecessary and will not speed the sharpening process. Avoid excessive cutting into the plastic enclosure. Accidental cutting into the enclosure however will not functionally impact operations of the sharpener or damage the edge.

Try a practice pull through the sharpener before you turn on the power. Slip the knife blade smoothly into the left slot between the left angle guide of Stage 1 and the plastic knife holding spring. Do not twist the knife. Move the blade down in the slot until you feel it contact the diamond disk. Pull it towards you lifting the handle slightly as you approach the tip. This practice pull will give you a feel for the spring tension. Remove the knife and read the following instructions specific to the type of knife you will be sharpening.

HOW TO CREATE THE TRIZOR EDGE ON EURO/AMERICAN AND

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN BLADES

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START IN SHARPENING STAGE 1

Turn ON the power and pull the length of blade thru the left slot and then thru

the right slot of Stage 1, using the left and right slots on alternate pulls. (Take about 3-4 seconds for each pull of a 12 cm long blade). The first time you sharpen an European or American knife it may take up to 20 pair of pulls to fully re-angle the edge of a thin blade. Thicker blades will require more pulls. Check for a burr as described below and continue to make more pulls if necessary to create a small burr along the entire length of the blade.

If you are sharpening a contemporary Asian blade (which probably has been sharpened previously at 15 degrees) you will find that only a few (1-2) pairs of alternating pulls (alternating left and right slots) will be needed to develop a burr. Do not over sharpen. When you have developed a burr along the full blade length proceed to Stage 2.

DETECTING THE BURR

To confirm the presence of a burr move your forefinger carefully across the edge in the direction shown. Do not move your finger along the edge – to avoid cutting your finger. If the last pull was in the right slot, the burr will appear only on the right side of the blade as you normally hold it and vice versa. The burr, when present, feels like a rough and bent extension of the edge; the opposite side of the edge feels very smooth by comparison. If there is no burr continue sharpening in Stage 1, alternating left and right slots until a full burr develops. When a burr is present along the entire blade length proceed as below to Stage 2.

HONING IN STAGE 2

Make about 1 or 2 pairs of pulls through Stage 2 alternating each pull in the left and right slots. Take about 3 seconds for each pull on a 12 cm long blade. Check for a burr before proceeding to Stage 3. If necessary make additional pairs of pulls to develop a burr along the entire length of blade before proceeding to Stage 3.

STROPPING/POLISHING THE EDGE IN STAGE 3

Pull the blade through the left slot of Stage 3 and then through the right slot of Stage 3. Make 3 pairs of pulls, alternating each pull in the left and right slots. You should take about 3 to 4 seconds for each pull for a 12 cm long blade.

Then make 2 pairs of alternating faster pulls in this Stage, about 1 second per pull for a 12 cm blade to put a final polish on the edge.

Check the blade for sharpness. For a sharper edge make a few more pairs of fast pulls and check for sharpness.

SHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL (SINGLE BEVEL) JAPANESE BLADE

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Traditional Japanese knives such as the sashimi blade shown here are single sided and have a large factory bevel on the front side of the blade. There are a large number of manufacturers of knives of this type used widely to prepare sashimi. The factory bevel (Bevel A) is commonly ground at about 10 degrees, but there are exceptions and that angle is not standardized at the factories. Designs of the traditional Japanese knives and the detailed structure of the cutting edges likewise vary widely from one manufacturer to the next, however there are some similarities. The cutting edge consists of a small primary facet on the front face of the blade below the large bevel and a much smaller secondary microfacet along the back face. Commonly the back side microfacet can be easily seen only with a hand magnifier. The back face is ground flat at the factory or more commonly it is slightly hollow ground to ensure that an effective microfacet can be formed there as part of the cutting edge. Because of the lack of standardization, the manual approach used to sharpen these knives in Asia has proven difficult, laborious and time consuming. The Graef Model CX125 is designed to sharpen all traditional Asian blades and to create a factory-quality edge.

Before you start to sharpen a traditional blade, examine it carefully in order to confirm that you have the traditional single bevel blade and to determine whether you have a right or left handed type. It is essential that you follow carefully the sharpening procedure and sequence as described below in order to achieve the optimum edge on your traditional blade.

Again confirm which side of the blade has the large factory Bevel A. Hold the blade in your hand (as when you are cutting) and if the large factory bevel is on the right side of the blade, the blade is right handed. For the right handed blades start sharpening in the left slot of Stage 2 so that only the beveled side (right side) of the edge will contact the honing wheel.

START HONING TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES IN STAGE 2 (RIGHT HANDED BLADES)

In this example which assumes your traditional blade is right handed, you must hone only in the left slot of Stage 2. The number of pulls that you need to make depends on the factory angle of Bevel A and how dull your blade may be.

Make five (5) to ten (10) pulls in only the left slot of Stage 2 and then check for a burr along the back side of the blade edge. (The burr created in Stage 2 will be small but easily felt as shown in Figure 4. Make certain the burr is present along the entire length of the edge. If there is no burr or only a partial burr, continue to make additional pulls all in the left slot about five (5) at a time and check for a burr after each group of five (5) pulls. In general 20-30 total pulls in the left slot will be adequate to raise a burr; it is unlikely to take more than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr. When a burr is confirmed, proceed to Step 2.

STEP 2

STROPPING/POLISHING THE FINAL EDGE ON TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE IN STAGE 3 (RIGHT HANDED BLADE)

• a.Make five regular pulls 3-4 seconds each only in the left slot of Stage 3 and then proceed to remove any burr as follows:
• b.Make one regular pull in right slot of Stage 3 along the back side of the edge.
  • c.Make several fast pulls (one second each) in the left slot of Stage 3.
  • d.Make one fast pull in the right slot of Stage 3.

Check the blade carefully for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. The blade should be razor sharp. If not razor sharp repeat 3c and 3d above and retest the blade for sharpness.

NOTE: If your traditional blade is excessively worn or if the edge is chipped and irregular you can use the left slot of Stage 1 to recondition the edge. Use the left slot only (for right handed blades). Make as many pulls as necessary to reestablish a smooth uniform edge line. Use a black felt pen to mark facet and follow progress of sharpening along the edge until edge line is restored. Then proceed in Stage 2 and 3.

RESHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE (RIGHT HANDED)

In general you will be able to resharpen quickly by following the sequence a thru d of Step 2 in the preceding section. Repeat this if necessary to obtain a razor sharp edge. When resharpening only in Stage 3 fails to develop a sharp edge or if the edge has been substantially dulled you will need to re-hone the edge in Stage 2. Use only the left slot of Stage 2. Generally you will find that about five re-honing pulls will be sufficient in Stage 2. In any event develop a burr before moving back to Stage 3. Finish the edge in Stage 3 following Step 3a, b, c, d.

SHARPENING LEFT HANDED TRADITIONAL BLADES

The procedure you must use with left handed blades is similar to that procedure for right handed blades as detailed above – Except, in all cases the slots you must use are reversed. Where the sharpening procedure for right handed blades calls for use of just the left slot, you must use only the right slot when sharpening a left-handed blade. Likewise use the left slot where the right handed instructions call for using the right slot.

THE EDGESELECT® FEATURE – OPTIMIZING THE KNIFE EDGE FOR EACH USE

The gourmet chef will appreciate the unique ability of The CX125 knife sharpener to tailor the knife edge to optimize performance for each individual cutting task. These procedures are not suggested for your traditional Asian knives.

GOURMET FOOD PREPARATION: (EUROPEAN, AMERICAN, AND CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIVES)

Where the finest and smoothest cuts are preferred in order to prepare smooth unmarked sections of fruits or vegetables, sharpen in Stages 1 & 2 as described above and make extra pulls thru Stage 3. Three or more pairs of fast pulls with each pull alternating in the left and right slots of Stage 3 will refine the third facet and create remarkably smooth and sharp edges, ideal for the gourmet chef.

When resharpening the Gourmet edge use Stage 3 each time (alternating left and right slots). If after a number of resharpenings, it is taking too long to resharpen, you can speed the process by resharpening first in Stage 2 following the procedures detailed, and then resharpen in Stage 3. By this method you will

retain very smooth edges and prolong the life of your knives. This procedure unlike conventional sharpeners will give you extra ordinary sharp knives every day while removing very little metal.

FOR MEATS, FIELD DRESSING AND HIGHLY FIBROUS MATERIALS

For butchering, field dressing or cutting fibrous materials you may find it advantageous to sharpen in Stage 1 – followed directly by Stage 3. This will leave sharpened microflutes along the facets near each side of the edge that will assist in the cutting of such materials.

To prepare this type edge on either your Euro/American knives or contemporary Asian knives, sharpen in Stage 1 until a burr is developed along the edge. Then move directly to Stage 3 and make two or three pairs of pulls there. To preserve this type of edge, when the knife needs resharpening, use Stage 3 for only one or two resharpenings. Then go back to Stage 1 for one pull in each of the left and right slots and then return directly to Stage 3. Do not oversharpen in Stage 1.

FOR GAME AND FISH

The optimum edge for cooked poultry generally can be obtained by using Stage 2 followed by Stage 3. For raw poultry, Stage 1 followed by Stage 3. For filleting fish use a thin but sturdy blade sharpened in Stages 2 and 3.

PROCEDURE FOR SHARPENING SERRATED BLADES

Serrated blades are similar to saw blades with scalloped depressions and a series of pointed teeth. In normal use the pointed teeth do most of the cutting. Serrated blades of all types can be sharpened in The Graef Model CX125 . However, use only Stage 3 which will sharpen the teeth of the serrations and develop microblades along the edge of these teeth. Generally five to ten pairs of alternating pulls in Stage 3 will be adequate. If the knife is very dull more pulls will be needed. If the knife edge has been severely damaged thru use make one fast pull (2-3 seconds for an 8" blade) in each of the right and left slots of Stage 2, then make a series of pulls in Stage 3, alternating right and left slots. Excessive use of Stage 2 will remove more metal along the edge then is necessary in order to sharpen the teeth.

Because serrated blades are saw-like structures, the edges will never appear to be as "sharp" as the edge on a straight edge knife. However, their tooth-like

structure can be helpful—for example to break the skin on hard crusty foods and penetrate other materials such as cardboard.

DRESSING OF STROPPING/POLISHING DISKS - STAGE 3

The Graef Model CX125 is equipped with a built-in system to manually clean/dress the stropping/polishing disks in Stage 3. In the event these disks become glazed with grease, food or sharpening debris, they can be cleaned and reshaped by actuating the manual lever on the rear of the sharpener. This lever is located within a recess on the lower left corner as you face the rear of the Sharpener. To actuate the cleaning/dressing tool, make sure the power is "ON" and simply press the small lever in the recess to the right, hold about 3-4 seconds and then press to the left and repeat for 3-4 seconds. When the lever is moved in one direction, the dressing tool cleans and reshapes the active surface of one stropping/polishing disk. By moving the lever in the opposite direction you clean the other disk.

Use this clean/dress mechanism only if the Stage 3 white disks are seriously darkened and when Stage 3 no longer appears to be stropping/polishing well. Using this tool removes material from the surface of the Stage 3 disks and hence, if used excessively, it will unnecessarily remove too much of the abrasive surface – wearing the disks out prematurely. If that should occur, factory replacement of the disks will become necessary. If you clean your knives regularly before sharpening you may need to clean or dress the Stage 3 disks less than once a year.

SUGGESTIONS

• Always clean all food, fat and foreign materials from the blade surfaces before sharpening or resharpening. If badly soiled, use detergent and water to clean.
• Some contemporary Asian knives and Granton type blades are dimpled and some contemporary and traditional Asian blades are made of layered Damascus steel. All of these should be sharpened accordingly to these instructions depending solely on whether the knife style is contemporary (two facets) or a traditional single facet Asian blade.
• Always pull the blades at the recommended speed and at a constant rate over length of blade. Never interrupt or stop the motion of the blade when in contact with abrasive disks.
• Carefully follow the detailed procedures for each type blade for best results and to extend the useful life of your knives. The sharpening sequence is es-

pecially important with the single sided traditional Asian blades.

• The edge of the knife blade, while sharpening, should remain in contact with the abrasive disks as the knife is withdrawn from the guiding slot. To sharpen the blade near the tip of a curved blade, lift the handle up slightly as you approach the tip of the blade but just enough so that the edge as it is being sharpened maintains audible contact with the honing or stropping disk.
• To increase your proficiency with The Graef Model CX125, learn how to detect a burr along the edge. While you might be able to sharpen well without using this technique, it is the best and fastest way to determine when you have sharpened sufficiently in the preliminary steps. This will help you avoid oversharpening and ensure incredibly sharp edges every time. Cutting a tomato or a piece of paper is a convenient method of checking for finished blade sharpness.
• Use only light downward pressure when sharpening – just enough to establish secure contact with the abrasive disk.
• If your knife has a significant choil you may find it helpful to place your index finger within or just behind the choil as you insert the blade in the sharpener. Your finger can act as a "stop" and prevent you from inserting the blade so far that the choil area will catch on the front stop-bar of the sharpener as you withdraw the blade. A little practice will help you perfect this technique. As you insert the blade let your finger slide down the front of the sharpener.
• Used correctly, you will find you can sharpen the entire blade to within " of the bolster or the sharpener handle. This is a major advantage of The Graef Model CX125 compared to other sharpening methods - especially important when sharpening chef's knives where you need to sharpen the entire blade length in order to maintain the curvature of the edge line. If your chef's knives have a heavy, thick bolster near the handle extending to the edge, a commercial grinder can modify or remove the lower portion of the bolster so it will not interfere with the sharpening action, allowing you to sharpen the entire blade length.
• The stropping/polishing disks in the Stage 3 are designed to last for years of use, however you can maximize their useful life by periodically modifying your sharpening pattern in Stage 2. The burr developed in Stage 2 will mildly wear the stropping/polishing disk it first contacts in Stage 3. Vary your last pull in Stage 2 by sometimes making the last pull on the left disk and at other times finish on the right disk of Stage 2.
• Do not attempt to use this sharpener to sharpen either ceramic knives or scissors.

NORMAL MAINTENANCE

NO lubrication is required for any moving parts, motor, bearings or sharpening surfaces. There is no need for water on abrasives. The exterior of the sharpener may be cleaned by carefully wiping with a soft damp cloth. Do not use detergents or abrasives.

Once a year or so as needed you should remove metal dust that will accumulate inside the sharpener from repeated sharpenings. Remove the small rectangular clean-out cover that covers an opening on the underside of the sharpener. You will find metal particles adhered to a magnet attached to the inside of that cover. Simply rub off or brush off accumulated filings from the magnet with a paper towel or tooth brush and reinsert the cover in the opening. If larger amounts of metal or other dust have been created you can shake out any remaining dust through the bottom opening when the cover is removed. After cleaning, replace the cover securely with its magnet in place.

MESURES DE PROTECTION IMPORTANTES

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DÉMARRER AVEC L'AIGUISAGE À L'ÉTAPE 1

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BEGIN MET SLIJPFASE 1

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COMENZAR EN LA ETAPA 1 DE AFILAR

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INIZIARE AD AFFILARE FASE 1

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Close-up of a modern kitchen knife with a flat blade and handle (no text or symbols visible)