MEB3200 - Sewing machine JUKI - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL MEB3200 JUKI

1. To prevent accidents caused by electric shock, never open the control box cover or

touch the components inside the control box while the power switch is ON.

If you nd the sewing machine is too heavy to lift, the gas spring may have malfunctioned due to outgassing. Never lift the sewing machine in such a state since the machine can drop to pinch hands, ngers and arms resulting in serious injury.

There is a risk of personal injury if you lift the sewing machine when the gas spring does not function since it is very heavy.

• Be sure to fully understand the standard of replacing time of the gas spring on p.56 and its replacement procedure on p.57 before putting the sewing machine into operation.

Do not raise/return the sewing machine from/to its home position with two or more workers in order to prevent an accident that can result in personal injury.

Do not hold the sewing machine in its raised position by hand in order to prevent an accident that can result in personal injury.

Be sure to lock the hinge stopper when raising the sewing machine to rmly secure the machine in its raised position.

Do not hold any part of the sewing machine other than the rib on the bed periphery on the near side in order to prevent an accident that can result in personal injury.

Do not use the sewing machine when the gas spring is not installed, in order to prevent an accident that can result in personal injury.

The cloth trimming knife trims the material with an extremely strong pressure. Never allow hands and ngers to move near the cloth trimming knife when the cloth trimming hammer is in operation in order to prevent a pinching accident that can result in personal injury.

To avoid personal injuries, never operate the machine with any of the belt cover, nger guard, eye guard or safety devices removed.

2. To avoid personal injuries, never bring your ngers, hair or clothes close to or place

anything on the handwheel, V-belt or motor while the machine is running.

To avoid personal injuries, never bring your ngers near needle, cloth cutting knife and bobbin thread cutting knife when turning ON the power or during operating the sewing machine.

To avoid personal injuries, never bring your ngers into the needle bar cover while the machine is running.

To avoid personal injuries and prevent the breakdown of the sewing machine, make sure that there is no person or thing around the sewing machine when raising the machine head.

To avoid personal injuries, do not use the sewing machine with the gas spring removed.

7. To prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine, turn OFF the power

switch when the machine is tilted or covers are removed.

The motor does not produce the noise while the machine is stopped. To prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine, be sure to turn OFF the power switch when you stop the machine.

To avoid personal injuries, when returning the machine head from the raised state to the home position, return it to the home position after conrming that there is no tool or component under the gas spring.

To avoid personal injuries or damage of the sewing machine, take care not to allow the tool or components to damage the rod section of gas spring in the bottom cover.

To avoid personal injuries, immediately replace the gas spring with a new one when the rod section of gas spring does not function properly with a aw or the like, or it is judged as a defective one. For the judgment standard of defectiveness, refer to the item of "Standard of replacing time of the gas spring". [Do not use anything other than JUKI genuine gas spring (Part No. : 40061247).] DANGER WARN- ING CAU- TION Precautions to be taken so as to use the MEB-3200 more safelyvi ENGLISH 1. Neveroperatethesewingmachineunlessthemachineheadhasbeenlubricated.2. Removedustgatheredintherespectivesectionsofthesewingmachinewhentheworkisover.3. A safetyswitchisprovided sothat thesewing machinecannot beoperated withthe machinehead tilted.Whenoperating thesewingmachine, turn ON the power switch after placing themachine head at the correct position.4. Connectthepowersuitableforthevoltageandphaseofthesewingmachine.5. ThestandardpatternsarepreparedbeforehandinthepatternNos.90to99.Sewingspeedandthreadtensioncanbechanged,however,shapecannotbechanged.Whenchangingtheshape,copytheshapeinanotherpatternNo.tochange.6. ThefeedbasecanbemovedbyhandwhenthepoweristurnedOFForimmediatelyafterthepoweristurnedON.However,becarefulsothattheclothcuttingknifedoesnotcomeincontactwiththeholdingplates,orthethreadtrimmingunitdoesnotcomeincontactwiththethroatplate. CAUTIONSINOPERATION CAU- TION

9. Toprevent accidents caused by electric shock, donotoperatethemachinewiththe

Becarefulofhandlingthisproductsoasnottopourwateroroil,shockbydropping, and the like since this product is a precision instrument.

12. If this machine is used in the household environment, it can cause radio frequency

interference. In this case, the user may be required to take an appropriate preventive measureagainsttheradiofrequencyinterference.vii Safety devices and warning labels In addition, be aware that the safety devices such as the "eye protection cover" and "nger guard" are some- times omitted in the sketches, illustrations and gures included in the Instruction Manual for the explanation's sake. In the practical use, never remove those safety devices. CAUTION Close/open caution label Cautions when closing/opening the sewing machine are described. Threading diagram seal Order of threading is described. Oiling place seal Oiling places are de- scribed.

• When returning the machine head to its home position, do not return it with tools such as screwdriver and the like placed in the bottom cover.

• When raising the machine head, be careful not to damage the gas spring with tools such as screwdriver and the like. Warning label (Refer to the warning label on page i.) The label gives t h e m i n i m u m precautions to be taken when ope r at in g the sewing machine. Needle bar cover This is a cover for preventing contact between the hu- man body and the needle bar. Temporary stop switch Press this switch to stop the sewing machine when you need to stop it while it is in operation. Eye protection cover Thi s is a cover for protecting eyes from being injured by a bro- ken needle. Finger guard This is a cover for preventing contact between fingers and the needle. Power switch This is a switch for disconnecting the power unit of the sewing ma- chine from the power supply. Power switch (EU type) This switch is used for disconnecting the power unit of the sew- ing machine from the power supply. It is also used as the emergency stop switch. Electrical- shock danger label (EU type) (Refer to "Elec- trical- shock danger label" on page i.) In order to pro- tect aga i n s t e l e c t r i c a l shock, safety prec a u ti o n s to be taken to avoid danger are written on this label. Turning gear cover Cover to prevent human bod y from coming in contact with turning gear. Hinge stopper Component to prevent human body from being injured by the sewing machine which can drop when being raised from its home position for maintenance. Voltage indication seal T h e f a c t o r y - s e t voltage at the time of shipment is de- scribed on this seal. Gas spring Component to ensure safety when raising/ returning the sewing machine from/to its home position.viii ENGLISH Hazardous voltage warn- ing seal T h i s i s t h e warning seal p urpos e of w h i c h i s t o p r e v e n t against elec- trical shock. Holding prohibition label, Caution tape This is the warning label to indicate the part which should not be held by hand when raising the sewing machine from its home position. Warning label against pinching This is the warn- ing label to pre- vent pinching of hands between the bed and the sewing machine when returning the latter to its home position. Load-center label This label indicates the center of gravity of the machine. Hazardous volt- age warning seal This is the warning seal purpose of which is to prevent against elec- trical shock. Warning label against pinching This is the warning label to prevent pinch- ing of ngers and hands in the hinge stopper. Warning label against pinching This is the warning la- bel to prevent pinching of ngers and hands in the timing belt. Warning label against pinching This is the warning label to prevent pinch- ing o f finger s and hands between the bed and the sewing machine when rais- ing the latter from its home position. Warning label against pinching This is the warn- ing label to prevent pinching of fingers and hands in the cloth trimming knife.ixENGLISH

(1) Names of the sewing machine main unit

• (1) Replacing the cloth cutting knife and the knife holder p. 26
• (2) Adjusting the cloth cutting knife pressure p. 27
• (3) Worn-out of the knife holder face p. 28
• (4) Setting the material thickness of the cloth cutting knife p. 28
• (5) Adjusting the stitch bite width p. 29
• (6) Adjusting the presser (7) Adjusting the presser opening amount p. 29

• (8) Adjusting the feeding amount of the needle thread p. 31
• (9) Adjusting the thread take-up thread guide p. 31
• (10) Adjusting the remaining amount of the gimp (J and C types) p. 32
• (11) Adjusting the gimp thread tension (J and C types) p. 32

• (1) Performing procedure of the cycle sewing p. 39
• (2) Operating procedure of thread tension compensation of each section p. 40
• (3) Changing the setting position of cloth p. 43
• (4) Changing over the mode of the start switch p. 43
• (5) Changing over the presser movement p. 43
• (6) Changing over the counter (DOWN counting) p. 43
• (7) Stop before cloth cut mode p. 43
• (8) Setting the pattern data of cloth cutting knife pressing amount p. 44

AND OPTIONAL ................................60 (1) Changing the thread trimming method

xi1 Specifi cations Application Sewing speed Thread trimming type Stitch length (Note 1) Stitch bite width (Notes 2 and 3) Taper bar length Lift of presser foot Method of changing sewing shape Buttonhole cutting system Feed system Cloth cutting drive Needle (Note 2) Safety device Lubricating oil Air pressure Air consumption Dimensions Power consumption Gross weight Noise

S type, R type Men’s and ladies’ wear Long thread trimming 10 to 38 mm (with thread trimmer) 10 to 50 mm (In case looper thread trimming device is removed) 400 to 2,200 sti/min (adjustable in 100 sti/min steps)

0 mm, 3 to 15 mm 13 mm (Max. 16 mm) Program selection method Cut-before knife, cut-after knife, without knife Intermittent feed by stepping motor Vertical drive by stepping motor (Pressure can be adjusted.)

558 #100 to 110 Temporary stop switch and automatic stop function at the time of detection of trouble JUKI New Defrix Oil No. 2 (Oiling system)

1,230 mm (H) (Excluding thread stand) 550 VA 185 kg - Equivalent continuous emission sound pressure level (L pA) at the workstation : A-weighted value of 81.0 dB; (Includes KpA = 2.5 dB); according to ISO 10821- C.6.3 -ISO 11204 GR2 at 2,200 sti/min. - Sound power level (LWA) ; A-weighted value of 88.0 dB; (Includes KWA = 2.5 dB); according to ISO 10821- C.6.3 -ISO 3744 GR2 at 2,200 sti/min. J type Jeans, working wear 24 to 32 mm

In case of taper bar, up to 34 mm Short thread trimming C type Cotton pants, working wear 16 to 24 mm

In case of taper bar, up to 26 mm Note 1. For the short thread trimming type, stitch length can be changed by changing the optional presser set. S set : 16 to 24 mm, M set : 24 to 32 mm, L set : 32 to 40 mm Note 2. Stitch bite width and needle size at the time of delivery are as follows. (When changing stitch bite width or needle size, check installing position and open/close timing of needle, looper, and spreader, and clearance between needle and needle guard.) Note 3. By changing to the optional looper, left and spreader, left, the range of stitch bite width can be changed to 2.0 to 3.2

2.6 to 4.0. However, for T type, the range is 2.0 to 3.2 mm only.

Note 4. In case of the machine with the needle thread clamp unit or with the multicutting device, refer to the respective Instruction Manuals together with this Instruction Manual. Note 5. Sewing with gimp cannot be performed with T (slacks) type. In addition, S size of the presser foot which can perform the stitch length up to 24 mm is provided. Stitch bite width Needle size S and R types

#110 T type Slacks Short thread trimming without gimp 10 to 34 mm T type

Temporary stop switch

The needle bar can be lifted or lowered by hand with the handpulley.

The cloth cutting knife can be lifted or lowered by hand with the cloth cutting dial. (When the power is turned OFF.) Hand pulley

and cloth cutting knife

rotate in accordance with the rotation of the sewing machine and the drive of the cloth cutting knife. Be careful not to allow your hands or the like to touch to them during operation of the sewing machine.

(1) Names of the sewing machine main unit

ENGLISH 1) Remove the fixing screws, right and left for transportation. (8 mm wrench is supplied with the machine.)Retain the screws since they are necessary when moving the sewing machine. Be sure to attach them when moving the sewing machine.

(2) Raising and returning the sewing machine (1) Installing the air hose

Connecting the air hose Connect the air hose to the regulator using the hose band and the one-touch socket joint supplied with the machine.

Adjustment of air pressure Open air cock

pull up and turn air adjustment knob and adjust so that air pressure indicates 0.45 to 0.55 MPa. Then lower the knob and x it.

Close air cock to expel air.Close Open

Fixing screw, leftFixing screw, right

1. If you nd the sewing machine is too heavy to lift, the gas spring may have malfunctioned due to outgassing. Never lift the sewing machine in such a state since the machine can drop to pinch hands, ngers and arms resulting in serious injury.

Be sure to fully understand the standard of replacing time of the gas spring on p.56 and its re-placement procedure on p.57 before putting the sewing machine into operation.2. In order to prevent pinching of hands, ngers and arms that can result in a serious injury, be sure to strictly observe the following when carrying out work. 2-1. Be sure to hold the rib on the bed periphery when holding the sewing machine. 2-2. Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position.

3) When returning the sewing machine, support

of the machine bed with your left hand, hold grip

of the hinge stopper section with your right hand, pull it to this side (direction A) to release the lock and slowly lower the sewing machine after confirming that there is no tool such as screwdriver and the like in the bottom cover.

4) Take your right hand off from the hinge stopper

section, support periphery ribs

of machine bed with your both hands, and further lower the sewing machine.

1. Do not lower the sewing machine while

keeping pulling the hinge stopper in direction A, in order to prevent pining of ngers, hands and arms under the sewing machine leading to a serious injury.

and feed guide shaft xing base

When returning sewing machine to its home positionWhen raising sewing machine

away from you (in the direction of the arrow), then hold periphery ribs

located on the front side of the sewing machine bed to slowly lift it. At this time, do not hold feed base

and feed guide shaft xing base

1. Do not hold any part other than periphery ribs

2. Conrm that hinge stopper

is locked with support shaft

CAUTION : If you raise the sewing machine from its home position with the feed base remained near side, the feed base can move to pinch hands and ngers leading to an unexpected injury.

The sewing machine stops once more at the nal stage of lowering for the safety. Support the periphery ribs of machine bed with your left hand, hold the grip of hinge stopper section with your right hand to release the lock and slowly lower the sewing machine following the description of step 3).

Take care to prevent pinching of hands and ngers between the sewing machine and the bottom cover. In particular, never lower the sewing machine holding parts other than the bed rib with two or more workers, since doing so can cause pinching of hands, ngers and arms leading to a serious injury. (3) Installing the thread stand

2) Insert it in the hole located in the rear of the

machine table, and tighten locknut

to fix the thread stand. When the ceiling wiring is possible, pass the power cord through the spool rest rod. (4) Installing the operation panel base Fix operation panel base

at the dotting punch section on the machine table with wood screw

Protection vinyl is coated on the surface of the operation panel. Remove it.

(5) Installing/removing the presser unit When moving the feed base by hand, or removing/attaching the presser unit, be careful so that the cloth cutting knife does not come in contact with the holding plates, orthe thread trimming unit does not come in contact with the throat plate.

1) Install the presser unit so that presser lever

in the letter “U” of presser base

2) Adjust the hole of presser plate

Turn clamp holding plate

to hold presser plate

into the concave in looper thread trimming cylinder click

. If the roller is off, the looper thread trimming unit interferes with the throat plate during sewing. As a result, component breakage will be caused.

to remove from presser plate

, remove it so as to draw it. It is comparatively easy to install or remove the presser unit by moving feed base

the cloth cutting position. ([THREAD ] key is convenient. P.18) When moving feed base

by hand, follow the aforementioned caution. (6) Attaching the dust bag Attach dust bag

located in the rear face of the table and insert dust hose

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine. (1) Lubricating the machine and how to lubricate

Use JUKI New Defrix Oil No. 2.

Lubricating the arm oil tank Lubricate arm tank to such an extent of approximately 80 %.

Lubricating the bed oil tank

Be sure carry out the work while observing the following in order to protect against pinching of hands, ngers and arms between the sewing machine and the bottom cover, which can result in serious injury, when you raise the sewing machine from its home position.• Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position. * Read and check how to rise/return the sewing machine described on p.3 to p.5.1) Raise the machine head.2) Lubricate bed oil tank up to the MAX. line.3) Return the machine head to its home position.

Lubricating the looper and spreader components

Be sure carry out the work while observing the following in order to protect against pinching of hands, ngers and arms between the sewing machine and the bottom cover, which can result in serious injury, when you raise the sewing machine from its home position.

• Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position.

• Read and check how to rise/return the sewing machine described on p.3 to p.5.

1) Remove the presser plates, left and right, and

raise the machine head.

2) Apply two to three drops of oil to looper link

and spreader actuating cam

1. Be sure to lubricate the components

once a day. If the frequency of lubrication is small, especially, worn- out of

is caused and stitch skipping or needle breakage will occur.

2. Apply oil to the oil wicks and the

felts (looper cam oiling felt

the like) in the machine bed at the time of delivery or after an extended period of disuse. ENGLISH

Lubricating the needle bar and cam components Lubricate the components at the time of delivery or after an extended period of disuse.

and remove face plate

2) Apply one to two drops of oil to needle bar

Apply oil to the felts and the oil wicks in the face plate section of the sewing machine.

and remove the upper face cover

Remove the cover with care since the air tube is connected with the cord.

5) Apply oil to the felts and the oil wicks in the

and upper face cover

Be careful not to allow the cords to be caught in the machine.Put needle as far as it goes.

TThe correct direction of the needle is that needle thread guide

faces the opposite side of groove

of the needle. 1. Use the most suitable size of needle in accordance with the kind and thickness of thread and kind of material to be used.2. When changing the size of needle, be sure to adjust the clearance between the needle and the looper. (Refer to (3) Clearance between the needle and the looper, p.47.) (2) Attaching the needle

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

StandardWith thread tension disk (OP)0 (3) Threading the machine head Threading the upper thread (needle thread)

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

1. If you nd the sewing machine is too heavy to lift, the gas spring may have malfunctioned due to

outgassing. Never lift the sewing machine in such a state since the machine can drop to pinch hands, ngers and arms resulting in serious injury.

Be sure to fully understand the standard of replacing time of the gas spring on p.56 and its re- placement procedure on p.57 before putting the sewing machine into operation.

2. In order to prevent pinching of hands, ngers and arms that can result in a serious injury, be

sure to strictly observe the following when carrying out work. 2-1. Be sure to hold the rib on the bed periphery when holding the sewing machine. 2-2. Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position. Threading the lower thread (looper thread) ENGLISH

1. When passing the looper thread, turn the looper bracket by 180

2. Pass the looper thread and gimp through the needle hole in the throat plate and pull them out from

. Then clamp them at

of the presser plate and perform a few stitch sewing to remove the looper thread and gimp (2 pcs.). When the sewing is completed, the looper thread is retained with the looper thread clamp and gimp with the gimp clamp. If thread waste is clamped, remove it since clamping becomes incomplete and stitch skipping at the sewing start will be caused. [Refer to the item “(9) Adjusting the looper thread trimming” on page 53.]

3. In case of T type, when performing sewing immediately after threading, place backward the

looper thread through the needle hole in the throat plate and perform partial sewing, or retain the looper thread on the looper thread presser and perform sewing. [Refer to the item “(9) Adjusting the looper thread trimming” on page 53.]

Insert thread in the groove.

1) Enter the sewing material until it comes in contact with cloth patches

right and left and adjust the sewing position by moving the cloth patches to and fro.

J, C and T types : 10.0 to 26 mm Threading the machine with gimp (4) How to set the cloth In case of thin thread, insert gimp in the gimp presser plate. S and R types J, C type Pass gimp through the groove on the thread tension disk shaft.

T type is without gimp. ENGLISH

5. STRUCTURE OF THE OPERATION SWITCH

(1) Structure of the operation panel [Table of functions of the operation panel] No.

ewing ready can be changed over alternately very time this key is pressed.Error release (at the time of various errors)• Reset of the production counter Move of the feed setting positionRelease of the threading modeMode becomes the threading mode (P.18) when this key is pressed.(When the sewing LED lights up.)When this key is pressed, the feed mechanism travels forward stitch by stitch.

NameBACK key 2-digit LEDLEFT “ ” key LEFT “ ” key 4-d igit LED DescriptionWhen this key is pressed, the feed mechanism travels backward stitch by stitch.This LED displays pattern No. normally and data No. at the time of data setting.This key subtracts pattern No. or data No. his key adds pattern No. or data No. hi s LED di spl ays c ut length, contents of data etting, counter value, error No., etc. READY NO.

” key PATTERN key DATA key COUNTER key NEEDLE key LOOPER key LENGTH key STITCHES (Number of stitches of parallel) key STITCHES (Number of stitches of eyelet) key SPACE (Cut space) key SPACE (Eyelet space) key Description This key subtracts various data. This key adds various data. This key performs display and setting of pattern No. This key performs display and setting of data No.

his key performs display of counter. This key performs display and sett i n g o f ne e d l e thread tension data.

his key performs display a n d s et t i n g o f l o o p e r thread tension data.

is key sets the length to be sewn. Note 1

his key sets the number of stitches of the parallel section. Note 1

his key sets the number of stitches of the eyelet section. Note 1

his key sets clearance between cloth cutting knife and sewing at the parallel section. Note 1 This key sets clearance between cloth cutting knife and sewing at the eyelet section. NO.

Name LENGTH (Taper bar length) key Note 1 STITCHES (Number of stitches of taper bar) key OFFSET (Taper bar offset) key MAX (Sewing speed) key EYELET (Eyelet speed setting) key KNIFE (Knife ON/ OFF)key

(Before-cut knife) key

(After-cut knife) key SHAPE (Knife No.) key AUTO (Auto operation) key OPEN (Cloth open) key ADJUST (Knife adjust) key FUNCTION (Function) key Description This key sets sewing length of taper bar. Note 1

his key sets the number of stitches of taper bar. Note 1

his k e y s e t s the sl i p amount of taper bar. Note 1

his key performs setting of sewing speed. Note 1

his key performs setting of reduced speed at eyelet sect ion. Note 1

his key sets effective/ ineffective of knife. Note 3

his key performs data setting of before-cut knife. Note 2

his key performs data setting of after-cut knife. Note 2

is key selects the No. of kind of knife to be used. Note 1

is key performs change- ov e r of au t omatic and manual operation modes. The mode becomes the

ne operating with the cloth open mechanism opened. The mode becomes the

ne of cloth cutting knife adjustment by turning ON the power with this key held pressed.

his key can be changed to optional data setting function key with the memory switch. At the time of delivery F1 : Knife position adjustment (No. 8) F2 : Copy destination No. (No. 80) Note 1 : When changing the set value, operate the panel in the state that the sewing LED has gone out. Note 2 : When both the before-cut and after-cut knives are not selected (set value : “0”), the data without knife is selected. Note 3 : Effective / ineffective of knife operation can be selected in case of the before-cut and after-cut knives, however, in case of the data without knife, the knife operation cannot be performed. ENGLISH (2) Temporary stop switch This switch stops the operation of the sewing machine. (4) Foot switch Presser switch

This switch performs up/down of the presser. Start switch

This switch performs the start of sewing. This switch is optional.

Temporary stop switch (3) Hand switch Presser switch (right)

This switch performs up/down of the presser. Start switch (left)

This switch performs the start of sewing. When the start switch is effective, the start switch lamp ashes on and off. This switch is provided as standard.

1) Set the display to pattern No. with [PATTERN ]

select the pattern desired to be sewn.

to light up sewing LED

and to make it possible to sew. At this time, feed base, knife and needle bar perform the origin retrieval.

Set the sewing material to the presser section, and lower the presser using the presser switch. Press the start switch and the sewing machine starts sewing.

1. For J and C type, the pattern No. which is different in the presser type cannot be used.

The standard patterns which can be used with the respective presser types are as shown below. (See page 70 for the standard patterns.).

or T type, No. 90 to 96 for S and M types can be used. S type M type L type No.90, No.91, No.92 No.93, No.94, No.95, No.96 No.97, No.98, No.99 C type at the time of delivery J type at the time of delivery (1) Basic operation of the sewing machine

(2) Setting the thread tension

Setting of the needle thread tension

to display the needle thread tension value.

to increase the numeric, the needle thread tension is increased. When pressing [RIGHT ] key

to decrease the numeric, the needle thread tension is decreased.

or when starting sewing with the start switch, the set value is stored in memory. When the pattern No. is changed without performing the operation of step 3) or turning OFF the power, the set value is not stored in memory. The actual thread tension varies in accordance with the kind or thickness of thread used even when the set value is the same. Adjust the thread tension value to the thread used. If the thread tension set value is high, stitch skipping may be caused.

Setting of the looper thread tension

to change the set value.

or when starting sewing with the start switch, the set value is stored in memory. When pressing [RIGHT ] key

to increase the numeric, the thread tension is increased. When pressing [RIGHT ] key

to decrease the numeric, the thread tension is decreased. When the pattern No. is changed without performing the operation of step 3) or turning OFF the power, the set value is not stored in memory. ENGLISH (3) Temporarily stopping the sewing machine

How to stop the sewing machine

The sewing machine stops and “Er 10” is displayed.

while “Er 10” is being displayed and the error is released.

and the feed mechanism travels forward/ backward stitch by stitch. Further, press [RESET ] key

to return the sew ing machine to the sewing start position. Operation of [FORWARD ] key, [BACK ] key or [RESET ] key cannot perform thread trimming. When temporarily stopping the sewing machine during sewing and returning the sewing machine to the start position with [RESET ] key, draw out needle thread, cut the thread with scissors or the like and perform the work. The work can be performed without applying a forced load to needle or sewing product. Sewing can be performed without making the cloth open operation.

1) Make sure that sewing LED

goes out. When the LED lights up, press [READY ] key

to light up cloth open LED

to perform the origin retrievel and the right and left presser plates open. The cloth setting position becomes the knife actuating position.

4) The sewing can be performed with the presser

switch and the start switch. Cloth open ON/OFF operation is not performed.

To release this setting, press [READY ] key

to make the sewing LED go out, then press [OPEN ] key

to make cloth open LED

go out. When the cloth cutting knife is not operated, prohibit the knife operation with [KNIFE ON/ OFF ] key

(4) Performing re-sewing

(5) Performing threading

lights up and the sewing machine stops at the setting position.

The needle bar rotates by 180˚ and threading can be performed from the front side.

The presser comes down.

Change the cloth set position (memory switch No.11=1), and the presser (feed base) moves to the rear (origin position) when the front set is used.

The cloth cutting drive motor is turned to OFF, and the cloth cutting dial can be turned by hand.

In this state, keys other than [THREAD ] key

and the needle bar only returns to its home position.

return to their home positions. The presser and the feed base operate. Be careful that hands or fingers are not being caught in them. It is recommended to perform installing/removing the presser unit after operating the aforementioned step 1) and turning OFF the power. (6) How to use the counter The counter has been set to UP counter in the state of delivery.

Press [COUNTER ] key

cycle stitching, the value increases by 1 count.

The counter value can be changed with [RIGHT ] key

to return the counter value to “0”. The counter can be used as DOWN counter as well. (Refer to the item “10. Various functions : (6) Change-over of the counter” P.43.)

Turn OFF the power after operation of steps 1) and 2), and replace needle, thread, cloth cutting knife or knife holder.

(7) When dropping of the knife is temporarily not desired

to make the LED go out. The knife does not work when the LED goes out.

aga in to make the LED light up and the knife can be operated. (8) Changing the operation mode

to ch an ge th e operation mode.

The machine works in [MANUAL mode] when the AUTO LED

goes out, and in [AUTO mode] when the AUTO LED lights up. [AUTO mode] Lower the presser foot, press the start switch, and a sequence of operation such as drive of cloth cutting knife, sewing, thread trimming, etc. is performed. This is the normal sewing mode. [MANUAL mode] This operation mode is an operating procedure to turn the handwheel by hand without rotating the sewing machine so that a step operation which makes the feed base travel stitch by stitch is performed. In addition, the knife operation, and the thread trimming operation can be performed step by step.

1) Make sure that sewing LED

has gone out. When it lights up, press [READY ] key

to light up sewing LED

and to make the sewing possible.

4) Lower the presser with the presser switch.

5) Press the start switch. When the cut-before knife is used, and the position of the feed base is not in the

position of the knife, the feed base moves to that of the knife.

6) Press the start switch. When the cut-before knife is used, the cloth cutting knife works.

7) Press the start switch. The cloth open mechanism is opened.

8) Press the start switch. The feed base travels to the sewing start position and the buzzer beeps.

9) Turn the handwheel in the direction of the arrow mark. The feed base interlocking with the needle

position travels stitch by stitch. Turn the handwheel and when the feed base comes to the sewing end position, the buzzer beeps.

10) It is possible to make the feed base only travel up to the sewing end position using [FORWARD ] key

11) Every time the start switch is pressed, the feed base travels and needle thread trimming operation or

looper thread trimming operation is performed step by step. When the after-cut knife is used, the cloth cutting knife operation is performed step by step.

and the feed base returns to the set position. Be sure to turn the handwheel in the normal direction since the feed mechanism does not perform the receding operation even when the handwheel is turned in the reverse direction.

(9) Changing procedure of the sewing pattern

1) Make sure that sewing LED

goes out. (When the LED lights up, press [READY ]

key to make it go out.)

to display the pattern No.

select the pattern you desire to sew. (The number of pattern which is not registered is not displayed.)

to light up sewing LED

and to make it possible to sew. (10) Conrming the pattern shape

to light up sewing LED

and to make it possible to sew.

2) Lower the presser with the presser switch.

is pressed, the feed mechanism travels forward/backward stitch by stitch and continually moves up to the position of the sewing end. In addition, the feed mechanism continually travels when keeping the key held pressed.

4) After completing the conrmation of the sewing

to return the machine to its set position. If the START switch is pressed during confirmation of the pattern shape, sewing starts from the position where the switch is pressed. So,be careful.

The standard patterns of pattern Nos. 90 to 99 can change the sewing speed and the thread tension, however, cannot change the sewing shape. When changing the shape , it is necessary to copy the shape to another pattern No. [See item (20) Copy destination No. on page 38.]

1) Conrm that sewing LED

has gone out. When it lights up, press [READY ] key

2) Display the pattern No. you desire to change the

ress the respective setting keys of the parts desired to be changed and display the data.

to light up sewing LED

and the data are stored in memory. When changing the pattern No. without pressing [READY ] key or turning OFF the power, the data are not stored in memory.

When the memory switch No. 20 is set to “1”, change of data setting in the above step 4) can be prohibited. (See the item of the memory switch on page 68.) The data No. is stated in 2-digit LED

and the example of the set value is stated in 4-digit LED

shown below. The setting range is stated in the respective sentences.

@122 Set the length to be cut with the knife. Set the length with [RIGHT ] key

The length can be set in increments of 1 mm within the range of the table below in accordance with the thread trimming type. The figures in ( ) parentheses are in case of taper bar or without bar tacking. When the cut length is changed, the number of stitches of the parallel section will automatically change. When sewing length is lengthened in case of taper bar length, compensation at the sewing end, etc., the setting range of the cut length is decreased as much as the length. Example) Cut length

38 mm (long thread trimming)

Set the knife No. of the same shape as that of the knife mounted on the sewing machine. [See item (1) on page 26.] Set the knife No. with [RIGHT ] key

The No. can be set 0 to 6. 0 ... Decorative buttonhole 1 to 6 ... Eyelet buttonhole Cut-before knife Cut-after knife Set value Motion 0 Without knife

Cut-before knife 2 Cut-after knife (3) Setting the cut-before/cut-after knives Set whether the cut-before knife or the cut- after knife.

Data of the cut-before knife can be immediately set with [CB ] key

2) Data of the cut-after knife can be immediately set

3) The data can be set with [RIGHT ] key

as well. When setting the data without knife, set the value to “0”. Set value can be set “0” to 2. (1) Setting the knife No. No. a

Thread trimming type Setting range Long thread trimming 10 to 38 mm Long thread trimming 10 to 50 mm without loop thread trimming Short thread trimming : Sewing length S 16 to 24 (26) mm Short thread trimming : Sewing length M 24 to 32 (34) mm Short thread trimming : Sewing length L 32 to 40 (42) mm Short thread trimming without gimp (T) 10 to 34 mm

Length (2) Setting the cut length ENGLISH

(4) Setting the number of stitches of the parallel section Set the number of stitches from the parallel section to the bottom section of eyelet. Set the number of stitches with [RIGHT ] key

1. The number of stitches can be set to

such an extent of 3 to 100 stitches. The number of stitches that can be set is limited by the set value of cut length. Example) When the cut length is equal to 22 mm, the number of stitches is 6 to 41 stitches. In addition, if the number of stitches is decreased, the number of revolution of the sewing machine automatically reduces.

For T type, looper thread can be neatly rolled in at the start of sewing by increasing the number of stitches. (5) Setting the number of stitches of the eyelet Set the number of stitches of the top section of eyelet. Set the number of stitches with [RIGHT ] key

The number of stitches can be set 4 to 20 stitches. (6) Setting the cut space Set the clearance where the knife drops in the parallel section. Set the cut space with [RIGHT ] key

The space can be set

.2 to 1.2 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. Clearance (7) Setting the eyelet space Set the clearance where the knife drops in the eyelet section. Set the eyelet space with [RIGHT ] key

The space can be set

.2 to 1.2 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. Number of stitches

Length Number of stitches (9) Setting the number of stitches of taper bar Set the number of stitches of taper bar. Set the number of stitches of taper bar with [RIGHT ] key

The number of stitches can be set to such an extent of 0 to 20 stitches. The number of stitches that can be set is limited by the set value of the length of taper bar. Example) When the length of taper bar is equal to 6 mm, the number of stitches is 2 to 12 stitches. (10) Setting the offset of taper bar Set the offset amount from the center of taper bar. Set the offset amount with [RIGHT ] key

The offset amount can be set 0.5 mm to 2.0 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. (8) Setting the length of taper bar Set the length of taper bar.

1) Set the length of taper bar with [RIGHT ] key

2) In case of without taper bar, set the value to 0

mm. In case of with taper bar, the length can be set 3 to 15 mm in the increments of 1 mm. When the length of taper bar is changed, the number of stitches of taper bar will automatically change. (11) Setting the sewing speed Set the sewing speed of the whole sewing. Set the sewing speed with [RIGHT ] key

(12) Setting the reduction speed of eyelet Set the reduction speed when the sewing speed of eyelet section is desired to be reduced. Set the reduction speed with [RIGHT ] key

The speed can be set

F1 has been set to the switch of knife position compensation in the state of delivery.

• F1 performs correction of the slip between the knife position and the sewing position.

1) When the stitches in terms of the knife position are

desired to be placed in the front side, set “

” (plus) value, and in the rear side, set “

2) Set the pattern No. with [RIGHT ] key

he knife position compensation can be set

mm to 0.7 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. This key can be changed to the key for setting other data by means of the memory switch No. 17. (Refer to "14. MEMORY SWITCH" p.68.) (14) Setting the FUNCTION F2

• F2 has been set to the switch of the copy destination No. in the state of delivery.

F2 performs copying of the pattern data.

When setting the copy destination No. and pressing [READY ] key, the pattern No. specied in the copy destination No. is stored in memory. The original pattern data cannot be changed.

2) Set the pattern No. with [RIGHT ] key

The No. can be set 1 to 89.

The pattern data located in the copy destination are overwritten. So, be careful. When the pattern No. is changed without pressing [READY ] key, or turning OFF the power, copying is not performed. This key can be changed to the key for setting other data by means of the memory switch No. 18. (Refer to "14. MEMORY SWITCH" p.68.)

Replacing the upper cloth cutting knife and the knife holder

and remove knife holder and cloth cutting knife

Make the knife holder or the cloth cutting knife desired to be replaced come in contact with stopper

and t ighten thumbscrew

is for positioning. Do not move it.

Lower cloth cutting knife and the knife holder

and remove knife holder and cloth cutting knife

2) Make the knife holder or the cloth cutting knife

desired to be changed come in contact with stopper

and tighten setscrew

is for positioning. Do not loosen screw

When replacing the cloth cutting knife, match the knife No. to the knife No. of the program. Use the cloth cutting knife and the knife holder as a set. (Two different knife marks are formed and cloth cannot be precisely cut. As a result, breakage of the cloth cutting knife will be caused.)

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine. (1) Replacing the cloth cutting knife and the knife holder

(2) Adjusting the cloth cutting knife pressure

The cloth cutting knife pressure and the contact time of the knife and the knife holder can be changed.

• When replacing the cloth cutting knife or the knife holder, or changing the sewing material, it is necessary to adjust the pressing amount of the knife or the stopping time of the knife lower position.

Perform the change of set value after fully performing checking of the knife holder face and the knife.

• Gradually increase any set value from the small amount while checking the set value.

Adjusting the knife pressing amount

, turn ON the power.

2) The pressing amount set in 4-digit LED

to light up the sewing LED. At this time, the feed base performs origin retrieval.

4) The pressing amount can be set with [RIGHT ]

100 to 300. The more the number is, the higher the knife pressure becomes.

5) Lower the presser with the presser switch and

press the start switch to actuate the knife. The pressing amount can be set again using [RIGHT ] key

with the presser raised.

6) After setting is completed, press [ADJUST ] key

and the knife adjustment mode will end. The set value is stored in memory when the knife is actuated by the start switch or [ADJUST ] key

is pressed. When turning OFF the power without performing either operation, the setting is not stored in memory. Set the knife pressing amount as small as possible in order to protect the knife and the knife holder and maintain the durability. If the knife pressing amount is excessively large, malfunction of the drive motor or breakage of the knife will be caused.

Adjusting the stopping time of the knife lower position The stopping time at the knife lower position can be extended. Setting of 50 to 500 ms can be performed with the memory switch No. 55. (Refer to “14. MEMORY SWITCH” P.68.) Even when the pressing amount is increased, the result is not effective, when the cut length is excessively long or sewing heavy-weight materials, set the stopping time of the knife lower position longer than the specied time. Knife holder Nos. “0” to “9” to which 10 kinds of knife pressing amounts have been set can be set to the pattern data using memory switch No. 40. (Refer to “Setting the pattern data of cloth cutting knife pressing amount”, p.44.)

1) Remove the knife holder. (See p.26.)

2) When the knife mark is too deep, the knife mark

is duplicate (A of Fig. on the left side) by using another knife or the knife mark is partially formed and not formed on the whole surface (B of Fig. on the left side), grind the face with an oil stone or the like so that the knife mark becomes uniform. The knife holder can be corrected up to 2 mm.

3) When the cloth cannot be precisely cut although

the knife holder is properly corrected, check the state of worn-out of the blade tip of the cloth cutting knife. Contact face of the knife holder with the cloth cutting knife. (4) Setting the material thickness of the cloth cutting knife (3) Worn-out of the knife holder face

Can be corrected up to 2 mm.

1) Turn ON the memory switch.

2) Set the memory switch No. 57 or 58 to the value A or B described in the table below.

Standard value (Up to jeans) A (Extra heavy-weight materials) B (Extra heavy-weight materials and long cut length) No.57

1. When replacing the knife, use a new knife holder or a corrected knife holder.

Breakage of the blade tip of the cloth cutting knife may occur.

2. When correcting the knife holder, adjust again the knife pressing amount.

When replacing the knife holder with a new one, adjust again the knife pressing amount from 30 or less.

• When the set value A or B is selected, the cloth cutting knife operating time is lengthened.

• When the set value is smaller than the standard one, the normal cloth cutting operation may not be performed. When the material thickness at the cloth cutting section is excessively thick or the cut length of heavy-weight materials is long, perform the following settings. The low-speed section of the cloth cutting is increased.

1) Open needle rocking adjustment cover

2) Turn the handwheel to bring the needle bar to its

• Moving the rocing link B in the direction A increases the stitch bite width.• Moving the rocking link B in the direction B decreases the stitch bite width.

of rocking link B and close the nee- dle rocking adjustment cover.

5) After adjusting the stitch bite width in the aforemen-

tioned steps, check the respective items of 11. (2) Timing between the needle and the looper P.45, 11. (3) Clearance between the needle and the looper P.47 and 11. (5) Installing positions of the spread- ers and timing to open/close the spreaders P.48. The engraved marker dot is a standard. Make sure of the amount by putting the needle tip marks on a sheet of paper or the like for the precise measurement.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine. (6) Adjusting the presser

Adjusting the height of the presser

and adjust the height of the presser. The height of the presser is up to 16 mm. If the height is set to more than 16 mm, when the cloth setting position is in the front, and the presser goes up, the presser interferes with the nger guard.

Adjusting the presser pressure Loosen nut

of the reducing valve and adjust the pressure with adjustment screw

Turning the screw clockwise increases the pre s se r pre s su r e a n d t u rn i ng i t counterclockwise decreases the pressure. (5) Adjusting the stitch bite width For all types the stitch bite width which is possible to sew is up to 3.2 mm. If the width exceeds 3.2 mm, stitch skipping may occur. When the width exceeding 3.2 mm is desired to be used, use the optional looper (left) and spreader (left). However, for T type, the width is up to 3.2 mm.

Standard of stitch bite amount (mm)

Rocking amount large

The conrmation of cloth open amount can be performed by actually cutting cloth in the manual mode. However, the cloth cutting knife works. So, be careful. (7) Adjusting the presser opening amount

Adjusting procedure Loosen setscrew

and turn adjustment screw

adjust the amount. The position where the presser plate closes will change according to the adjustment. Turning the adjustment screw

clockwise decreases the opening amount and turning it counterclockwise increases the opening amount. The position of the presser (A in the figure below) at the time of sewing (in the state that the cloth open is opened) can be adjusted and the presser can be approached to the throat plate. (Refer to the Engineer’s Manual.)

t this time, there is a case where an additional processing of support plate

necessary to prevent the interference of the cloth cutting knife with support plate

Checking the cloth open amount at the time of adjustment

1) Turn ON the power and press the [READY ] key

to light up the sewing LED.

2) Press [KNIFE ] key to make the LED go out so

that the cloth cutting knife is not actuated.

3) Press the presser switch, press [FORWARD ]

key and the cloth open mechanism opens. The feed base travels to the sewing start position and stops there. At this time, measure position “A” of the presser plate with vernier calipers or the like.

4) Press [RESET ] key, and the presser goes up,

then the cloth open mechanism closes and returns to its origin. At this time, measure position “B” of the presser plate with vernier calipers or the like.

(minus) A, (difference between A and B) = cloth open amount The cloth open amount can be adjusted within the range of 0 to 2 mm. Normally, however, the amount of 0.5 to 0.8 mm is enough.

ENGLISH (8) Adjusting the feeding amount of the needle thread

Adjusting the feeding amount of the needle thread during sewing Loosen screw

and move the position of needle thread drawing thread guide

• When the thread guide slides downward, the feeding amount of needle thread decreases and the needle thread is apt to be tightened. When the thread guide slides upward, the feeding amount of needle thread increases and the needle thread is difcult to be tightened.

Adjusting the drawing amount of the needle thread at the sewing start Loosen screws

and move thread drawing arm

in the direction of A or B to adjust the drawing amount. When the machine is provided with the needle thread clamp unit, if the thread drawing arm is moved in the direction of A, the thread remaining on the needle will be shorter and the thread is easy to be rolled in. When the machine is not provided with the needle thread clamp unit, and the memory switch No. B8 is "0", "Adjusting the drawing amount of the needle thread at the sewing start" cannot be performed. When moving it in the direction of B, the drawing amount of needle thread increases and slip-off of needle thread or the like can be prevented. Refer to the Instruction Manual for the needle thread clamp unit.

Slide up or down thread take-up thread guides

installed on thread take-up thread guide installing base

and the trend described below is obtained.

Effect : • Double chainstitch stitches can easily stand and the sewing possible area is widened. On the contrary, the whole stitches become stiff. (This is suitable for heavy-weight materials.)

• The loop when the looper catches thread becomes larger and stitch skipping is prevented. (Hard-to-slide thread)

and move upward thread take-up thread guide

Effect : Double chainstitch stitches become flat and the stitches become soft. On the contrary, the sewing possible area is narrowed and stitch skipping is apt to occur. (This is suitable for light-weight materials.) (9) Adjusting the thread take-up thread guide

and move to and fro gimp guide

to adjust the remaining amount of the gimp at the sewing end.

2) For the adjustment, actually sew the remainder of the material or the like and determine the position of

so that the remaining length of the gimp is approximately 4 mm at the sewing end. Decrease (10) Adjusting the remaining amount of the gimp (J and C types) Increase There is a case where the remaining amount of gimp is not stable when sewing thread or the like is used for the gimp. In this case, insert the gimp in the gimp presser plate

(11) Adjusting the gimp thread tension (J and C types) Loosen double nut

to adjust the tension. The standard adjustment value is 2 mm. When double nut

is tightened, the gimp tension becomes higher and the length of remaining thread at the time of looper thread trimming becomes shorter. On the contrary, the length of remaining gimp becomes unstable, or the looper thread trimming knife may cut the stitches or materials in case of light- weight materials or elastic sewing products.

1. In case of the light-weight materials or stretchy sewing products, loosen nut

and x it.2. W h e n gi m p t h r e a d t e n s i o n i s excessively low or high, there is a case where the length of remaining gimp becomes unstable. The standard adjustment value is 2 mm. Nut consists of a double nut for locking.

1) Conrm that sewing LED

has gone out. When the LED lights up, press [READY ] key

2) Display the pattern No. desired to be changed.

dis play the data No. of the part desired to be changed.

and re-set the respective data.

to light up sewing LED

and the data are stored in memory. When changing the pattern No. without pressing [READY ] key

or turning OFF the power, the data are not stored in memory. It is necessary to set again the data.

7) When the memory switch No. 20 is equal to

“1”, change of setting the data in step 5) can be prohibited. The data No. is stated in 2-digit LED and the example of the set value is stated in 4-digit LED

shown below. The setting range is stated in the respective sentences.

S t i t c h e s o f t h e r e s p e c t i v e compensations as shown below are expreseed by the stitches as observed from the right side of stitching.Wrong side of stitchingRight side of stitching (1) Knife position compensation Correct the slip between the position of knife and sewing position.

1) When the knife position in terms of the stitches

is desired to be placed in the rear side, set “

(plus) value, and in the front side, set “

2) Set the knife position with [RIGHT ] key

. Setting can be performed

.7 to 0.7 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. (2) Number of stitches of sewing end compensation Number of stitches of sewing end can be increased at the same sewing pitch. Set the number of stitches with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed as follows : Without bartack ... 1 to 6 stitches Taper bar ... 1 to 6 stitches Straight bar ... 1 to 3 stitches

(3) Compensation of turning Turning angle of the eyelet section and of the parallel section can be adjusted. Set the turning angle with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed

14˚ to 14˚. (5) Eyelet crosswise compensation Position on the top of eyelet can be moved to the right- or left-hand. Set the position with [RIGHT ] key

Sett ing can be performed

to 0.6 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. (6) Eyelet lengthwise compensation Shape on the top of eyelet can be expanded or contracted in the longitudinal direction. Set the position with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed

to 0.6 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. (7) Left eyelet lengthwise compensation Length of the left side on the top of eyelet can be adjusted. Set the length with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed

to 0.6 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. (4) Parallel section turning compensation Turning angle of parallel section and bottom of eyelet can be adjusted. Set the turning angle with [RIGHT ] key

compensation of turning

compensation of turning at parallel section

ENGLISH (9) Needle throwing width of the right bottom of eyelet setting

• Needle throwing width of the right side of the bottom of eyelet can be set.

Feed base is actuated with the needle throwing to change the sewing width. Set the width with [RIGHT ] key

. The width can be set within the range of 2.3 ±1.0 mm for S type, 2.5 ± 1.0 mm for J type, 2.5 ±

1.0 mm for C type and 2.3 ± 1.0 mm for T type in the

increments of 0.1 mm. (8) Left parallel section lengthwise compensation Length from the bottom of eyelet to the left side of parallel section can be adjusted. Set the length with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed

.6 to 0.6 mm in the increments of 0.1 mm. (10) Needle throwing width of the left bottom of eyelet setting

• Needle throwing width of the left side of the bottom of eyelet can be set.

Feed base is actuated with the needle throwing to change the sewing width. Set the width with [RIGHT ] key

. The width can be set within the range of 2.3 ±1.0 mm for S type, 2.5 ± 1.0 mm for J type, 2.5 ±

1.0 mm for C type and 2.3 ± 1.0 mm for T type in the

increments of 0.1 mm. (11) Needle throwing width setting

• Needle throwing width of the whole buttonholing can be set.

Feed base is actuated with the needle throwing to change the sewing width. Set the width with [RIGHT ] key

. The width can be set within the range of 2.3 ±1.0 mm for S type, 2.5 ± 1.0 mm for J type, 2.5 ±

1.0 mm for C type and 2.3 ± 1.0 mm for T type in the

increments of 0.1 mm. (12) Number of stitches of the slant taper bar Number of stitches of the slant section from the taper bar to the parallel section can be set. Set the number of stitches with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed 2 to 30 stitches within the range of number of stitches of the taper bar.

Number of stitches No. Length Nuber of Overlapping Needle throw (a) stitches(n) amount(b) width(c) 1 3.0 4 1.0 0 2 4.0 5 1.0 0 3 5.0 6 1.0 0 4 6.0 7 1.0 0 5 7.0 8 1.0

No. Length Nuber of Overlapping Needle throw (a) stitches(n) amount(b) width(c) 52 3.0 4 1.5

No. Length Nuber of Overlapping Needle throw (a) stitches(n) amount(b) width(c) 19 3.0 4 1.5 0 20 4.0 5 1.5 0 21 5.0 6 1.5 0 22 6.0 7 1.5 0 23 7.0 8 1.5

No. Length Nuber of Overlapping Needle throw (a) stitches(n) amount(b) width(c) 37 3.0 4 1.0

Number of stitches (13) Number of stitches of the right side taper bar compensation Number of stitches of the right side taper bar can be decreased and the overlapping section can be made less. Set the number of stitches with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed

0 to “0” stitch within the range of number of stitches of the taper bar. Select the shape of straight bar from the left-hand table. (14) Shape of the straight bar Shape of the straight bar can be selected.

Set the shape with [RIGHT ] key

2) Set the value to “0” in case of without straight bar.

3) In case of with straight bar, select the shape from among

No. 1 to No. 90 of the table below.

4) When making memory switch No. 26 = 1, it is possible

to sew the pattern with straight bar with the cloth open mechanism opened.

a,n a Length n Number of stitches b Overlapping amount c Needle throw width

• Set the cut length to the length of the knife holder to be used plus overlapping amout (b) or more.

• Select the length (a) of the straight bar within the range where there is no interference of the throat plate with the eyelet holding plate in consideration of the position of the presser plate when the cloth open mechanism opened.

When the length (a) of the straight bar is lengthened, needle thread may not be clamped unless the lateral position of the needle thread clamp unit is re-adjusted. (Refer to the Engineer's Manual.) Select the shape of straight bar from the left-hand table.

a,n a Length n Number of stitches b Overlapping amount c Needle throw width No. Length Nuber of Overlapping Needle throw (a) stitches(n) amount(b) width(c) 67 3.0 4 1.0

No. Length Nuber of Overlapping Needle throw (a) stitches(n) amount(b) width(c) 79 3.0 4 1.5

(15) Number of stitches of the round bar The number of stitches of the round bar is set.

1) Set the number of stitches with [RIGHT ] key

In case of without the round bar, set the value to “0”.

3) In case of entering the round bar, 4 to 20 stitches

When the round bar has been set, the number of overlapped stitches of sewing start and sewing end can be set with the number of stitches of sewing end compensation of data No. 9. Number of stitches

(16) Left side cut space compensation The clearance where the knife drops in the left side of the parallel section can be compensated. Set the clearance with [RIGHT ] key

. If the setting is “

”, the clearance becomes larger than that on the right side, and if it is

”, the clearance becomes smaller. Setting range is limited by the set value of the cut space of No. 6. Cut space setting range is -1.2

cut space + compensation of left cut space

(17) Soft start Sewing speed at the sewing start can be limited. Set the sewing speed with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed up to 6 rotations at the sewing start. Sewing speed per rotation can be set with memory switches Nos. 1 to 6. All machines have been delivered with the speed set to 600 sti/min. (18) Number of stitches of the sewing start of thread tension Number of stitches of the sewing start section at the time of needle/looper thread tension setting can be set. Set the number of stitches with [RIGHT ] key

Setting can be performed “0” to 3 stitches.

(19) Number of stitches of the sewing end of thread tension Number of stitches of the sewing end section at the time of needle/looper thread tension setting can be set. Set the number of stitches with [RIGHT ] key

Sett ing can be performed “0” to 3 stitches.

(20) Copy destination No. By setting a copy destination No. which is different from the pattern No. currently selected, when pressing [READY ] key to light up the sewing LED, the pattern is copied in the pattern No. which has been set in the copy destination No. and stored in memory. The original pattern is not changed. When changing the pattern No. without pressing [READY ] key or turning OFF the power, the set value is not stored in memory.

When setting the copy destination No. and pressing [READY ] key, the pattern No. specied in the copy destination No. is stored in memory. The original pattern data cannot be changed.

2) Set the pattern No. with [RIGHT ] key

. The No. can be set 1 to 89. Pattern located in the copy destination is overwritten. So, be careful.

ENGLISH Example of displayStep 1 and pattern No. 11 of cycle sewing 1 (C1)Cycle sewing Step Individual pattern No.Program No. : C1 to C3 1 to 9 1 to 99 A,b,C,d,E,F

10. HOW TO USE THE VARIOUS FUNCTIONS

For the cycle sewing, three programs, C1 to C3, can be registered and maximum 15 different kinds of patterns (1 to 15 steps) in the respective programs can be sewn in order. (Set the data with individual patterns in advance before resgistration.)

1) Make sure that sewing LED

has gone out. When it lights up, press [READY ] key

to display the pattern No.

to select the program No. desired to register. (C1 to C3)

display the step of cycle sewing.

set the individual pattern No.

7) Repeat the steps 5) to 6) and when the setting is

completed, display the next step and make the display of individual pattern No. [ ][ ] (no light-up). Then press [READY ] key

to light up sewing LED

and the program is stored in memory.

• When [READY ] key is pressed with the display of pattern No. [ ] [ ] (no light-up), the pattern after the step will be deleted. When changing the cycle sewing without pressing [READY ] key or turning OFF the power, the data is not stored in memory. When you desire to return the pattern to the previous one or to skip to the next one at the time of stop of the sewing machine during sewing, press [LEFT ] key

. (It is effective only when the presser goes up.) Display of the pattern No. changes. When the data is changed with each pattern, the contents registered in C1 to C3 also change. So, be careful. (1) Performing procedure of the cycle sewing

Performing the compensation of thread tension in the state of sewing Setting of compensation of thread tension and confirmation of sewing can be performed without performing the operation of [READY ] key

1) Make the memory switch No. 19 = 1.

Directly indicate the compensation position No. with [NEEDLE ] key

or starting sewing with the start switch, the set value is stored in memory. When changing the pattern No. without performing the operation of step 4) or turning OFF the power, the set value is not stored in memory.

Thread tension of each section of the sewing shape can be individually changed. Thread tension at each section is needle thread tension set value (No. 40) or looper thread tension set value (No. 60) to which each compensation value has been added.

1) Make sure that the sewing LED

has gone out. When it lights up, press [READY ] key

Select the compensation position No. of each tension with [LEFT ] key

. (For the compensat ion position No., refer to the separate tables 1 and 2.)

When the compensation position No. is selected, input the set value with [RIGHT ] key

and the set value is stored in memory. Both needle thread and looper thread can be set with the same operation. When changing the pattern No. without performing the operation of step 5) or turning OFF the power, the set value is not stored in memory. For the cpmpensation position No., refer to tables 1 and 2 and Figs. 1 and 3. (2) Operating procedure of thread tension compensation of each section

ENGLISH [ Setting of needle thread tension ] Table1

1 : Compensation value as against memory switch No. 8 (looper thread tension at the time of thread trimming)

2 : Compensation value as against memory switch No. 10 (looper thread tension at the time of stop) (See the item of the memory switch on page 68.) Compensation position No.

Setting item Needle thread tens ion Compensation of needle thread tension of right parallel section Compensation of needle thread tension of left parallel section Compensation of needle thread tension of top eyelet Compensation of needle thread tension of right bottom of eyelet

ompensation of needle thread tension of left bottom of eyelet Compensation of needle thread tension of right taper bar Compensation of needle thread tension of left taper bar Compensation of needle thread of straight bar Compensation of needle thread tension of right round bar Compensation of needle thread tension of left round bar Compensation of needle thread tension of sewing start Compensation of needle thread tension of sewing end Compensation of needle thread tension at the time of thread trimming Compensation of needle thread tension at the time of stop Description Needle thread tens ion value Compensation value of needle thread tension of right side of parallel section Compensation value of needle thread tension of left side of parallel section Compensation value of thread tension of top eyelet Compensation value of needle thread tension of right bottom of eyelet Compensat ion value of needle thread tension of left bottom of eyelet Compensation value of needle thread tension of right taper bar Compensation value of needle thread tension of left taper bar Compensation value of needle thread tension of straight bar Compensation value of needle thread tension of right round bar Compensation value of needle thread tension of left round bar Compensation value of needle thread tension of sewing start Compensation value of needle thread tension of sewing end Compensation value of needle thread tension at the time of thread trimming of sewing machine

Compensation value of needle thread tension at the time of stop of sewing machine

1 : Compensation value as against memory switch No. 7 (needle thread tension at the time of thread trimming)

2 : Compensation value as against memory switch No. 9 (needle thread tension at the time of stop) (See the item of the memory switch on page 68.) [ Setting of looper thread tension ] Table2 Compensation position No.

Setting item Looper thread tens ion Compensation of looper thread tension of right parallel section Compensation of looper thread tension of left parallel section Compensation of looper thread tension of top eyelet Compensation of looper thread tension of right bottom of eyelet

ompensation of looper thread tension of left bottom of eyelet Compensation of looper thread tension of right taper bar Compensation of looper thread tension of left taper bar Compensation of looper thread tension of straight bar Compensation of looper thread tension of right round bar Compensation of looper thread tension of left round bar Compensation of looper thread tension of sewing start Compensation of looper thread tension of sewing end Compensation of looper thread tension at the time of thread trimming Compensation of looper thread tension at the time of stop Description Looper thread tens ion value Compensation value of looper thread tension of right side of parallel section Compensation value of looper thread tension of left side of parallel section Compensation value of looper thread tension of top eyelet Compensation value of looper thread tension of right bottom of eyelet Compensat ion value of looper thread tension of left bottom of eyelet Compensation value of looper thread tension of right taper bar Compensation value of looper thread tension of left taper bar Compensation value of looper thread tension of straight bar Compensation value of looper thread tension of right round bar Compensation value of looper thread tension of left round bar Compensation value of looper thread tension of sewing start Compensation value of looper thread tension of sewing end Compensation value of looper thread tension at the time of thread trimming of sewing machine

Compensation value of looper thread tension at the time of stop of sewing machine

1. The actual thread tension varies in accordance with the kind or thickness of thread used even

when the set value of thread tension is the same. Especially, in case of thread of which the surface is hard to slide, the thread tension becomes higher, and even when the set value is as low as 60 to 70, the loop becomes smaller. As a result, stitch skipping may be caused. When using plural threads, it is recommended to make a sewing pattern to which set values of thread tension suitable for the respective threads have been inputted.

When the needle thread tension (No. 52) at the end of sewing is set to a high value, stitch skipping at the end of sewing or failure of needle thread take-up may occur. Data No. 46 Compensation of needle thread tension of right taper bar Data No. 66 Compensation of looper thread tension of right taper bar Data No. 45 Compensation of needle thread tension of left bottom of eyelet Data No. 65 Compensation of looper thread tension of left bottom of eyelet Data No. 42 Compensation of needle thread tension of left parallel section Data No. 62 Compensation of looper thread tension of left parallel section Data No. 47 Compensation of needle thread tension of left taper bar Data No. 67 Compensation of looper thread tension of left taper bar Data No. 43 Compensation of needle thread tension of top eyelet Data No. 63 Compensation of looper thread tension of top eyelet Data No. 44 Compensation of needle thread tension of right bottom of eyelet Data No. 64 Compensation of looper thread tension of right bottom of eyelet Data No. 41 Compensation of needle thread tensionof right parallel section Data No. 61 Compensation of looper thread tension of right parallel section Data No. 45 Compensation of needle thread tension of left bottom of eyelet Data No.65 Compensation of looper thread tension of left bottom of eyelet Data No. 42 Compensation of needle thread tension of left parallel section Data No. 62 Compensation of looper thread tension of left parallel section Data No. 44 Compensation of needle thread tension of right bottom of eyelet Data No. 64 Compensation of looper thread tension of right bottom of eyelet Data No. 41 Compensation of needle thread tensionof right parallel section Data No. 61 Compensation of looper thread tension of right parallel section Data No. 43 Compensation of needle thread tension of top eyelet Data No. 63 Compensation of looper thread tension of top eyelet Data No. 48 Compensation of needle thread of straight bar Data No. 68 Compensation of looper thread of straight bar [Compensation position of taper bar] Fig. 1 Data No. 49 Compensation of needle thread tension of right round bar Data No. 69 Compensation of looper thread tension of right round barsection Data No. 50 Compensation of needle thread tension of left round bar Data No. 70 Compensation of looper thread tension of left round bar [Compensation position of straight bar] Fig. 2 [Compensation position of round bar] Fig. 3 ENGLISH (3) Changing the setting position of cloth Setting position of cloth can be changed to the front side.

1) Set memory switch No. 11 to “1”.

Traveling amount to the front side is set by memory switch No. 29. (22 mm in the standard state of delivery) Setting “0” to 64 mm (S/R types) or “0” to 54 mm (J/C/T types) can be performed. However, if the amount is excessively large, looper thread may not be clamped. It is also possible to perform the normal use by lowering the presser with the presser switch and performing sewing with the start switch. However, the presser LED of the hand switch is always put in the state of ashing on and off. (5) Changing over the presser movement It is possible that the presser returns to the set position while it is held lowered after completion of sewing. (The presser returns to the set position while it is raised after completion of sewing in the standard state of delivery.)

1) Set memory switch No. 23 to “1”.

The presser is held lowered when the sewing machine is stopped during sewing with the temporary stop switch or when the feed base returns to the set position with [RESET ] key. (6) Changing over the counter (DOWN counting) Set the count value and perform DOWN counting. It is possible to prohibit the start at the count value “0”.

Change-over to DOWN counter

1) Set memory switch No. 12 to 2.

2) When the count value becomes “0”, the display ashes on and off and the start switch is inoperative.

3) Press [RESET ] key and the count value returns to the initial value.

(State of standard delivery : initial value = 100) In order to perform the start even when the count value becomes “0”, set memory switch No. 13 to “0”.

Setting the initial value of DOWN counter It is necessary to set the initial value starting “Count DOWN” when using DOWN counter.

1) Press [COUNTER ] key to display the counter.

2) Press [RESET ] key to return the count value to the initial value.

The initial value has been set to 100 in the state of standard delivery.

3) Set the count value with [RIGHT ] key or [RIGHT ] key.

(7) Stop before cloth cut mode The sewing can be temporarily stopped before performing the cloth cutting operation at the time of the pattern sewing of cut-after knife data.

1) Set memory switch No. 24 to “1”.

The sewing machine once stops after sewing and cloth cutting operation is performed by again pressing the start switch. It is also possible to return the sering machine to the cloth set position without performing cloth cutting operation by pressing [RESET ] key. (4) Changing over the mode of the start switch The presser comes down by the operation of the start switch only, and the sewing is continually performed.

1) Set memory switch No. 14 to “1”.

The cloth cutting knife pressing amount can be set to the pattern data, and even when the knife holder is replaced, the knife adjustment is not performed. The setting can be completed by changing the pattern No. only. The knife holder No. 0 to 9 up to 10 kinds are set to the pattern data No. 28 and the knife pressing amounts can be set to each of knife holder Nos.

1) Set memory switch No. 40 to “1”.

(8) Setting the pattern data of cloth cutting knife pressing amount

Adjusting the knife pressing amount

, turn ON the power.

2) The knife holder No. is displayed in 2-digit LED and the knife pressing

amount which has been set to each knife holder No. is displayed in 4-digit LED

to light up the sewing LED. At this time, the feed base and the cloth cutting knife perform origin retrieval.

4) The knife holder No. desired to be set can be set with [LEFT ] key

. The setting range is 0 to 9.

5) The knife pressing amount in terms of the knife holder No. displayed in

the 2-digit LED can be set with [RIGHT ] key

The setting range is -100 to 300. The more the number is, the higher the cloth cutting knife pressure becomes.

6) Lower the presser with the presser switch and press the start switch to

actuate the knife. The knife holder No. can be set again with the presser raised using [LEFT ] key

. In addition, the pressing amount can be set again using [RIGHT ] key

after completion of setting and the knife adjustment mode ends.

Pattern data setting procedure The knife holder No. to which the knife pressing amount has been set is set. For the data setting procedure, refer to Compensation of the data on page 31.

to set the data No. 0 to 9 can be set.

The set value is stored in memory when the knife is actuated by the start switch or [ADJUST ] key

is pressed. When changing the knife holder No. without performing either operation, or turning OFF the power, the setting is not stored in memory. For the caution regarding adjusting the cloth cutting knife pressure, refer to (2) Adjusting the cloth cutting knife pressure on page 27.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

Adjust the standard position of the needle bar, using the timing gauge supplied with the machine, when the needle bar is brought to the inside lowest positionfollowing the procedure described below.1) Remove the throat plate. Instead of the throat plate, attach timing gauge support base

supplied with the machine on the machine.2) Place timing gauge

supplied with the machine on timing gauge support base , and confirm that the needle bar aligns with the indented part of the timing gauge when the needle bar is in its inside lowest position.

Needle barTo align (1) Height of the needle bar (2) Timing between the needle and the looper

1) Bring the needle bar to its inside lowest position, loosen lower shaft sprocket setscrews

and move looper driving cam so that the plane of looper driving cam faces to the front. Then temporarily tighten the screws.The maximum stitch bite width of all types is 3.2 mm. When the width exceeds 3.2 mm, use the optional looper (left) and spreader (left).Perform the work after checking the stitch bite width and the height of the needle bar.The stitch bite width of each type at the time of delivery is as shown in the table below. SS/RS JS/CS TS 2.3 2.5 2.3 Needle (inside lower dead position) a=b

Be sure carry out the work while observing the following in order to protect against pinching of hands, ngers and arms between the sewing machine and the bottom cover, which can result in serious injury, when you raise the sewing machine from its home position.• Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position. * Read and check how to rise/return the sewing machine described on p.3 to p.5.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.There are two kinds of timing gauges

• With engraved marker “32021404” for S/R/J/C types• Without engraved marker for T type

on timing gauge support base

supplied with the machine and adjust using looper driving cam

so that the left looper blade point aligns with the center of the needle when the needle bar ascends 3.3 mm from the inside lowest position, and x lower shaft sprocket setscrews

4) Similarly, check the position of the needle and the

looper blade point when the needle bar ascends

3.3 mm from the outside lowest position. The

blade point is positioned approximately in the range of the left side of the needle. When it is outside the range, check again steps 2) and 3).

Needle inside Needle outside

Plane Rear Front Direction A : Timing advances. Direction B : Timing retards.

1. After performing the looper timing

adjustment, when the stitch bite width is changed in case of

described below, perform steps 1) to 4) whenever the case occurs.

When the stitch bite width in terms of that at the time of looper timing adjustment is changed more than ±

Even when the change of the stitch bite width is within ±0.3 mm :

hen the stitch bite width is more than 3.4 mm.

h e n s e w i n g h e a v y - w e i g h t materials or overlapped section where needle is apt to be bent.

There are two kinds of timing gauges

With engraved marker “32021404” for S/R/J/C types

Without engraved marker for T type Stitch bite width : small Stitch bite width : large Engraved marker

and move up and down looper driving shaft guide

adjust so that the space between the needle and the left/right loopers becomes the same when the needle is brought to its outside lowest position or inside lowest position. Tighten setscrew

ENGLISH The standard adjustment value of the clearance between the needle and the looper is 0.03 to 0.1 mm. Loosen looper setscrew

and adjust the clearance between needle

, and between the needle and right looper

. Then x the loopers in place. Dimension for reference purposeClearance between the needle and needle guard : 0 to 0.1 mmClearance between the needle and holder

0.2 mmBe sure to adjust the clearance whenever the needle size is changed.

(3) Clearance between the needle and the looper

0.03 to 0.1 mm0.2 mm0 to 0.1 mm

(4) Adjusting the needle guard 0 to 0.1mm

2) Set the clearance between needle

4) Check the position both at the time of needle

inside and of needle outside. Be sure to adjust the needle guard when the needle size is changed or when the adjustment of needle and looper is performed.Adjust the clearance when needle aligns with the looper balde point at the inside and outside respectively.

Be sure carry out the work while observing the following in order to protect against pinching of hands, ngers and arms between the sewing machine and the bottom cover, which can result in serious injury, when you raise the sewing machine from its home position.• Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position. * Read and check how to rise/return the sewing machine described on p.3 to p.5.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

Be sure carry out the work while observing the following in order to protect against pinching of hands, ngers and arms between the sewing machine and the bottom cover, which can result in serious injury, when you raise the sewing machine from its home position.• Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position. * Read and check how to rise/return the sewing machine described on p.3 to p.5.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine. (5) Installation positions of the spreaders and the timing to open/ close the spreaders

height The clearance A provided between left spreader

and the top surface of the left looper is as small as a piece of looper thread to be used.

height The clearance provided between right spreader

and the top surface of the right looper is 0 to 0.1 mm. 1. Adjust the clearance by reforming the spreader. Place the top end of the spreader on the wooden board or the like and gradually bend it by hand since using pliers or the like will cause the spreader to break.2. If the clearance provided between the spreader and the looper is excessively small or large, stitch skipping or needle breakage will result. 0 to 0.1 mm

Be sure carry out the work while observing the following in order to protect against pinching of hands, ngers and arms between the sewing machine and the bottom cover, which can result in serious injury, when you raise the sewing machine from its home position.• Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position. * Read and check how to rise/return the sewing machine described on p.3 to p.5.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine. ENGLISH

Installation position of the left spreader The center of the forked section at the top of left spreader

s aligned with the center of the looper thread hole in the left looper. Loosen setscrew

the spreader stopper and adjust the position of spreader stopper

Then x the spreader in place. (Make the same adjustment for both left/r ight spreaders.) When the top end of the left spreader in terms of the left looper protrudes, stitch skipping will result.

Installation position of the right spreader The ridge line (on the needle side) on right spreader

s aligned with the ridge line (on the needle side) on the right looper.

Timing to open/close the spreaders Adjust so that the spreaders open/close equally on the left and right without interfering with the needle. When the stitch bite width is excessively small and eyelet stitches are irregular, adjust the timing to X2 < X1. Make sure of the width or the timing when the stitch bite width is changed or after performing the looper timing adjustment. Loosen setscrews

in spreader driving shaft guide

and move the guide up and down to make the adjustment. Then x the guide. As the spreader driving shaft guide moves upward, the opening amount of the right spreader will be greater than that of the left spreader. (X1 > X2)

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

0 to 0.5 mm Adjust the clearance between the presser foot and the holding plate to 0 to 0.5 mm. Loosen two setscrews

the presser arm base and the adjust the clearance. Then fix the presser arm in place. Moving presser arm

in the direction A will reduce the clearance between the presser foot and the outside needle entry point.

The front or rear inclination can be adjusted with presser arm setscrew

(6) Position of the presser foot and the needle entry point

Upper knife type Loosen setscrew

in the cloth cutting knife installing base, adjust cloth cutting knife installing base

to the left or right. Then x the base.

Lower knife type Loosen setscrews

in the knife base and adjust knife base

to the left or right. Then x the knife base. (7) Adjusting the knife dropping position

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine. (8) Installing position of the needle thread trimming knife

S and R type (long thread trimming)

1) The clearance between needle thread trimming

and the needle is approximately 1 mm. Loosen setscrew

and move needle thread triming knife J

to adjust the clearance.

move needle thread trimming adjusting base

up and down, and adjust

learance “B” between the needle thread trimming knife J and spreader, right

to 0.1 to 0.2 mm to obtain the height of needle thread trimming knife J

When needle thread trimming knife J

comes in contact with spreader, right

breakage of components will be caused.

3) The initial position of needle thread trimming

is the position where it protrudes 3.2 mm from throat plate

and adjust the initial position with adjustment screw

The operating position of needle thread trimming knife J

is the position where needle thread trimming knife J

comes out by 1.2 to 1.5 mm from throat plate

when needle thread trimming actuating arm

is moved counterclockwise and stopper B

of the needle thread trimming actuating arm comes in confact with the top surface of the looper bracket.

hen the adjustment is necessary, loosen the stopper B

and set the protruding amount to 1 to 1.2 mm. Stopper B of the needle thread trimming actuating arm has double screws.14050009(Right blade type) Approx. 1 mm

1.2 mmIn case of using Part No. 14050009, refer to the Engineer’s Manual.Approx. 3.2 mm

T type (short thread trimming without gimp) Perform the adjustment of the aforementioned steps

1) to 4) with the left looper (eye looper) instead of

When the clearance of 1 mm provided between the top end of needle thread trimming knife J and the needle (edge of the left looper) is smaller, the knife cuts even the looper thread and the looper thread cannot be retained. When such phenomenon as this occurs, adjust the clearance of 1 mm to rather large.

J and C type (short thread trimming)

1) The clearance between needle thread trimming

and the needle is approximately 1 mm. Loosen setscrew

and move needle thread triming knife J

to adjust the clearance.

2) The overlapping amount between looper thread

and the top end section of throat plate

is 0 to 0.2 mm, and adjust so that no clearance is provided between them. Loosen adjustment nut

and adjust the position of the top end of looper thread presser

with adjustment screw

The height of needle thread trimming knife J

is determined by the adjustment value of looper thread presser

. After the adjustment of step

4) below, confirm that clearance A between the

looper thread presser and throat plate

and that B between the looper thread presser and right spreader

are securely obta ined.

4) The height of looper thread presser

is the position where the top end is lowered by 0 to 0.5 mm from the at face of throat plate

and move needle thread trimming knife adjustment base

up or down to adjust the height of the top end of looper thread presser

When needle thread trimming knife J

comes in contact with throat plate

, breakage of components will be caused. Make sure of the clearances “A” and “B”.

5) The initial position of needle thread trimming knife

and looper thread presser

s the position where the left corner of the top end of looper thread presser

is aligned with the right corner of the slot of throat plate

and adjust the initial position with adjustment screw

The operating position of needle thread trimming knife J

is the position where needle thread trimming knife J

comes out by 1.2 to 1.5 mm from throat plate

when needle thread trimming actuating arm

moved counterclockwise and stopper B

of the needle thread trimming actuating arm comes in confact with the top surface of the looper bracket.

hen the adjustment is necessay, remove needle thread trimming adjusting base

and adjust the protruding amount of stopper B

to 1 to 1.2 mm. Stopper B

of the needle thread trimming actuating arm has double screws.

ENGLISH (9) Adjusting the looper thread trimming

S and R type (long thread trimming) Looper thread and gimp trimming is operated at the position of the feed base origin and the presser goes up after the trimming.

1) Looper thread and gimp have been adjusted so

that they are separated upward and downward by thread handling plate

2) Looper thread is precisely held between looper

thread clamp fixing plate

and looper thread clamp

of the plate spring and gimp is precisely held between looper thread clamp xing plate

of the plate spr ing.

Adjustment has been performed so that the top end of counter knife

is aligned with engraved dot

when the stroke of looper thread trimming actuating arm

is maximum. When the cut end (thread waste) of looper thread or gimp is clamped with looper thread clamp or gimp clamp , clamp failure occurs. As a result, stitch skipping at the sewing start or defective stitches will occur. So, remove the thread waste.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

J and C type (short thread trimming) When the feed base is manually moved to the rear until it will go no further, upper knife lower cover rides on the cloth cutting knife and remove presser unit

Looper thread and gimp trimming is operated at the position of the feed base origin after the presser has been lifted.

1) Looper thread and gimp have been adjusted so

that they are separated from the cloth by thread handling plate

is actuated and lower knife

engage with each other to perform thread trimming.

Upper knife lower cover

controls the variation of the remaining looper thread when looper thread comes in contact with the blade of the moving knife.

At the time of delivery or when the following presser sets are used, use the cloth cutting knife with the same size as that supplied with the machine. If a cloth cutting knife with different size is used, the knife unit breakage or the like will be caused. In the state of the standard delivery of J type, the presser of M set is installed and that of S set is installed on C type. The sewing length can be changed as shown below by installing the optional presser set and moving the installing position of the knife unit only.S set : 16 to 26 mmM set : 24 to 34 mm L set : 32 to 42 mm

T type (short thread trimming without gimp) Adjusting the looper thread presser

Fully press downward throat plate

and install it. (Fig.

Lightly press upward the looper thread presser so that a clearance is not provided between looper thread presser

and the bottom surface of throat plate

Then tighten setscrew

and tighten adjusting screw

until the top end of the screw comes in contact with looper bracket

5) Further, turn it by 1/4 turn and x it with nut

the direction of arrow mark D with nger, tighten adjusting screw

protrudes from throat plate

by approximately 0.5 mm and x the screw with nut

When the clearance provided between throat plate

and the looper thread presser is smaller than the specied value, the looper thread holding force is insufficient. As a result, stitch skipping at the start of sewing or defective roll-in of thread will be caused.

Wh e n th e loop er th rea d pr e ss e r is excessively pressed to throat plate

component breakage or excessive tightness of stitches at the start of sewing will result. Adjusting the looper thread trimming knife

and adjust so that the top end

f looper thread trimming knife

located at the position of 1 to 2 mm from section

and that a clearance of 0.2 to 0.4 mm is provided between the bottom surface of the looper thread

rimming knife and throat plate

10) Tighten adjusting screw

so that the blade point of looper thread trimming knife

protrudes from end plane

by approximately 1 mm. Then x it with nut

of knife installing base

the direction of arrow mark D with finger, tighten adjusting screw

(double thread screw) so that

he top end of looper thread trimming knife

aligns with the end plane of throat plate

. Then x the base. The standard of the protruding amount of adjusting screw

• When the lateral position of looper thread trimming knife

is not obtained, thread trimming failure or interference with the presser will result.

When looper thread trimming knife

positioned too high, looper thread trimming failure or cut-off of stitches will result. When the looper thread is not retained immediately after threading or the like, perform sewing after retaining the looper thread at section

with looper thread presser

Approx. 1 mm Approx. 0.5 mm

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine. (11) Draining When polyethylene oiler

under the bottom cover becomes lled with oil, remove it and drain the oil.

Be sure to fully dry and install the lter af-ter washing it. Be sure to remove thread waste or dust collected since the thread waste may be sewn together with the sewing product. For J/C types, thread waste occurs every time of sewing since the short thread remaining function works.Perform cleaning of the machine once in half a day to a day. (12) Checking the fan lter Clean filter of the control box fan once every week.

n the direction of the arrow to remove it.

under running water.

Be sure carry out the work while observing the following in order to protect against pinching of hands, ngers and arms between the sewing machine and the bottom cover, which can result in serious injury, when you raise the sewing machine from its home position.• Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position. * Read and check how to rise/return the sewing machine described on p.3 to p.5.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.

To prevent electric shock or personal injury caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine, turn OFF the power and remove the cover after an elapse of 5 minutes or more. To prevent personal injury, be sure to turn OFF the power and replace the fuse with one with same capacity after remov- ing the cause of blown-out of the fuse when the fuse has blown out. (13) Replacing the fuse

1) Turn OFF the power with the power switch after

conrming that the sewing machine has stopped.

2) Draw the power cord from the power receptacle

after confirming that the power switch is turned OFF. Then wait for more than 5 minutes.

3) Remove six screws fixing the rear cover of the

control box. Then slowly open the rear cover.

Grasp the glass section of the fuse to be replaced and remove it.

5) Use the fuse with the specied capacity.

T h e m a c h i n e u s e s t h e following four fuses.

For control power and active tension protection 10 A (Time-lag fuse)

(14) Standard of replacing time of the gas spring

1) Gas spring is one of the consumables. Gas inside

the gas spring will be gone naturally even when the frequency of use is low and the spring cannot display the thrust to secure the safety. In case a force of 156N or more is necessary when passing strings through the front end of machine bed and lifting the sewing machine as shown in the left-hand gure, quickly replace the spring with JUKI genuine gas spring (Part No. : 40061247). Gas spring is a component that can be used with ease. However, there is a aw on the rod section or a section that is weak in the side load when the gas spring is fully stretched. Be very careful when performing maintenance or cleaning of the sewing machine.

There is a risk of pinching of hand, ngers and arms to cause a serious injury if you raise it when the gas spring does not function, since the sewing machine is very heavy in weight. In order to prevent an accident, be sure to replace the gas spring with a new one before it is too late according to the standard of replacing time (as described below). ENGLISH (15) Replacing the gas spring

1) Loosen and remove stopper screw

2) Hold with your both hands periphery ribs

located on the front side of machine bed, slowly lift the sewing machine, and stop it at the lock position of the intermediate section. Do not hold feed base and feed guide shaft xing base

3) Further, support periphery ribs

of the machine bed with your left hand, hold grip

of the hinge stopper section with your right hand, release the lock, and slowly lift the sewing machine. When the sewing machine starts lifting, set free the hinge stopper section held with your right hand and support the periphery ribs with your both hands.

Be sure carry out the work while observing the following in order to protect against pinching of hands, ngers and arms between the sewing machine and the bottom cover, which can result in serious injury, when you raise or return the sewing machine from or back to its home position. 1. Be sure to hold the rib on the bed periphery when holding the sewing machine. 2. Be sure to lock the hinge stopper to rmly secure the sewing machine in its raised position.

Turn OFF the power before starting the work so as to prevent accidents caused by abrupt start of the sewing machine.58

4) Further, lift the sewing machine and adjust so that

moves to the last lock position of the hinge stopper.

and draw out fulcrum shaft

after conrming that the force

es not work to the sewing machine.

nstall new gas spring

that yellow caution seal

comes to the front side same as before.

If the hinge stopper is not locked, the sew- ing machine can drop to pinch hands, n- gers and arms leading to a serious injury. Make sure that the hinge stopper is locked with support shaft

7) When assembling is completed, return the sewing

machine to its home position. When returning the sewing machine, support periphery ribs

of the machine bed with your left hand, hold grip

the hinge stopper section with your right hand, pull it to this side (direction A) to release the lock and slowly lower the sewing machine after confirming that there is no tool such as screwdriver and the like in the bottom cover.

8) Take your right hand off from the hinge stopper

section, support periphery ribs

of machine bed with your both hands and further lower the sewing machine.

1. Do not lower the sewing machine while

keeping pulling the hinge stopper in direction A, in order to prevent pining of ngers, hands and arms under the sewing machine leading to a serious injury.

and feed guide shaft xing base

Take care to prevent pinching of hands and ngers between the sewing machine and the bottom cover. In particular, never lower the sewing machine holding parts other than the bed rib with two or more workers, since doing so can cause pinch- ing of hands, ngers and arms leading to a serious injury.

9) The lock works two times for the safety while the

sewing machine is lowered. Every time, support the periphery ribs of machine bed with your left hand, hold the grip of hinge stopper section with your right hand, release the lock, and slowly lower the sewing machine.

10) When the sewing machine is completely lowered,

attach stopper screw

that has been removed before.0 Long thread trimming Short thread trimming S (C standard) Short thread trimming M (J standard) Short thread trimming L OFF OFF OFF OFF DIP-SW

OFF OFF Long thread trimming (1) Changing the thread trimming method

DIP switch Thread trimming type is selected with DIP switch 1 and 2 located at the rear of the machine head. It is necessary to separately set the memory switch (machine model setting) in case of the change of type such as S

1) S and R type (long thread trimming)

12. EXCHANGING GAGUE PARTS AND OPTIONAL

2) J and C type (short thread trimming)

Do not change DIP-SW for the long thread trimming type. Simultaneously change DIP-SW when changing the presser set for J and C types. When changing the presser set, the pattern used before the change cannot be used.

3) T type (short thread trimming without gimp) – for slacks

Do not change DIP-SW for the short thread trimming without gimp type. OFF DIP-SW Type 1 2 3 Short thread tr imming without gimp

ENGLISH (2) Exchanging gauge parts (The mark in [ ] parentheses shows the standard equipment for each type.) Throat plate Presser set [ C ] [ J ] Name of part ShapePart No. Eyelet buttonhole compensating presser S set32028458Eyelet buttonhole compensating presser M set32028854Eyelet buttonhole compensating presser L set 32029050For J and C types Throat plate A Throat plate B Throat plate C Throat plate D Throat plate TE (Standard) [S, R] (For semi-wide width) (For wide width) (For narrow width) (Standard) [T]

Needle size #90 to #110 #100 to #110 Gimp position W

1.3 mm 1.8 mm 2.4 mm 1.1 mm Without

32042715 32042913 32043010 32043218 32043713 (32042707) (32042905) (32043002) (32043200) (32043705) Type For S and R types For T typeShapeName of part Throat plate JA Throat plate JB Throat plate JC Throat plate JD Throat plate JE Throat plate JF (Standard) [J] (For semi-wide width) (For wide width) (For narrow width) (Standard) [C] (For narrow width) Needle size #120 to #130 #90 to #1 10 #90 to #100 #110 to #120 #90 to #100

• Part Nos. with ( ) parentheses can be used.

When L set is used, cloth cutting plate A, part No. 32068702 is separately necessary. Part No. Eyelet buttonhole compensating foot S 40 mm

For decorative buttonhole 40 mm

For decorative buttonhole 40 mm

For S and R types Name of part Shape Part

[ R ] Presser foot Presser foot (left) (For L type) (For M type) (For S type) [S,R] [ J ] Name of part Shape Part No. [ T ] [ C ] (For L type) (For M type) (For S type) Presser foot (right) Name of part Shape Part No. [S,R] [ J ] [ T ] [ C ] (The mark in [ ] parentheses shows the standard equipment for each type.) Presser set Compensating foot for eyelet buttonhole 22 mm

Compensating foot for eyelet buttonhole 32 mm

Compensating foot for eyelet buttonhole 22 mm

Compensating foot for eyelet buttonhole 32 mm

Presser foot (left) Name of part Shape Part No. Presser foot (right) Name of part Shape Part No. ENGLISH Presser holding plate

• Part Nos. with ( ) parentheses can be used. Name of part Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, left Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, right Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, left Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, right Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, left Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, right Shape of hole Eyelet buttonhole Decorat ive buttonhole Eyelet buttonhole Stitch length 10 to 38 10 to 34 Shape Part No.

Type For S and R types For T type Name of part Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, left Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, right Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, left Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, right Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, left Eyelet buttonhole presser holding plate, right Shape of hole Eyelet buttonhole Stitch length S : 16 to 24 [C] M : 24 to 32 [J] L : 32 to 40 Shape Part No.

Type For J and C types Cloth cutting knife

Looper (left) • Spreader (left) For eyelet buttonhole Standard Part No. X Y Remarks equipment S, R 14041206 2.9 4.4 Long thread trimming, short thread trimming, sewing length L C, T 32063604 2.9 4.4 Short thread trimming, sewing length S J 32063703 2.9 4.4 Short thread trimming, sewing length M 32063802 2.1 3.2 Long thread trimming, short thread trimming, sewing length L 32063901 2.1 3.2 Short thread trimming, sewing length S 32064008 2.1 3.2 Short thread trimming, sewing length M 32064107 3.2 5.4 Long thread trimming, short thread trimming, sewing llengthL 32064206 3.2 5.4 Short thread trimming, sewing length S 32064305 3.2 5.4 Short thread trimming, sewing length M 32066904 2.7 5.1 Long thread trimming, short thread trimming, sewing length L S, R 14041404 0 0 Long thread trimming, short thread trimming, sewing length L 32065302 0 0 Short thread trimming, sewing length S 32065401 0 0 Short thread trimming, sewing length M For decorative buttonhole For eyelet buttonhole For decorative buttonhole Knife holder (The mark in [ ] parentheses shows the standard equipment for each type.) Looper (left) Spreader (left) Applicable stitch bite width Standard equipment L1 Part No. L2 Part No.

Name of part For decorative buttonhole Shape Size (mm) Part No. Size (mm) Part No. 38 14042501 22 [S,R] 14042907

Width of 2.6 to 4.0 mm is optional. ENGLISH

Installing the optional foot pedal Hand switch is provided with S type and J type as standard. When using the optional foot switch, pedal switch cable (asm.) is necessary.

1) Loosen ve setscrews and remove cover

located at the rear of the machine head.

and pedal sw itch cable (asm.)

, and insert the cable to J73 on the CONNECTOR circuit board.

4) Connect ground wire

of the pedal switch (asm.)

to the machine head.

5) Fix the cord with the cable clip band together with

other cords. Drive and start of the presser can be performed with the foot switch. Operation with the hand switch cannot be performed. Others

CN73 J73J71 CN71 Name of part Foot pedal switch (asm.) Pedal switch cable (asm.) Hand switch (asm.) Shape and application

Part No. M85905130AA M90146200A0 32076655 Button switch Operation of the sewing machine is performed by foot pedal. The cable is used to connect pedal switch (asm.).

• Check and replace the needle.

• Use DO x 558 needle.

• Adjust the clearance at the time of inside needle or outside needle.

• Check and adjust the clearance.

• Adjust the center of the needle.

• Adjust the timing with the stitch bite width used.

• Adjust the timing to open/close the spreader by the stitch bite width used.

• Remove the cloth waste from the spreader. Replace the spreader with a new one.

• Check the clearance and properly adjust it.

• Set the thread tension to the proper value.

• Correct the looper with oil-stone or the like, or replace it with a new one.

• Check and adjust the height of the needle bar.

• Replace the looper or the spreader with a new one suitable for the stitch bite width.

• Adjust the clearance at the time of inside needle or outside needle with the needle size used.

• Adjust the timing to open/close the spreader with the needle size used.

• Use the throat plate suitable for the needle.

• Decrease the needle thread tension. Lower the installing position of thread take-up thread guide

Decrease the number of revolution of the sewing machine.

• Change the needle to a thicker one. Adjust the stitch base line offset.

• Re-set the cut space.

• Decrease the needle thread tension at the time of thread trimming.

• Check the installing position and adjust it.

• Check the timing between the needle and the looper, and adjust it.

• Check the clearance and adjust it.

• Check the looper and replace it with a new one.

• Adjust the feeding amount of needle thread

• Check and adjust the pressure.

• Check the clearance and adjust it properly.

• Decrease the sewing speed of eyelet section. Correct the presser foot or replace it with a new one.

Lift the installing position of thread take-up thread guide

• Decrease the needle thread tension. Lower the installing position of thread take-up thread guide

Adjust the feeding amount of needle thread.

Check and adjust the timing between the needle and the looper.

• Check and adjust the opening amount of the spreader.

• Replace the gimp. Check the thread path of gimp.

• Adjust the sewing conditions to obtain an appropriate thread tension.

• Check and adjust the clearance.

• Check and replace the respective parts.

• Replace the needle with a proper one.

• Check and replace the needle. Cause

• The needle is bent. There is a scratchon the needle. The needle is incorrectly attached.

• Kind of needle is wrong.

• The clearance between the needle and the looper is too large.

The clearance between the needle and the needle guard is too large or the needle and the needle guard come in excessive contact with each other.

• The clearance between the needle and the looper varies according to the turning angle (0˚, 90˚ and 180˚).

Improper adjustment of the timing between the needle and the looper

Improper adjustment of the timing to open/close the spreader The spreader comes in contact with the needle.

Motion to open/close the spreader is not smooth.

• The clearance between the presser foot and the needle entry point is too large.

• Thread tension is not proper.

• The blade point of looper has worn out.

Improper adjustment of the height of the needle bar

• The looper or the spreader not suitable for the stitch bite width is used.

• Improper adjustment of the clearance between the needle and the looper

Improper adjustment of the timing to open/close the spreader The spreader comes in contact with the needle.

The needle does not t the kind of throat plate (needle size used).

• Thread which is difcult to make loops is used. (Hard-to-slide thread or the like)

• The needle is bent at the thick section of the material and stitch skipping occurs.

In case of the cut-before knife, the inside needle is bent at the cutting section and stitch skipping occurs.

• The length of remaining needle thread at the start of sewing is too short.

• The left-hand spreader is installed incorrectly.

• The timing of the right-hand looper is too early.

• The clearance between the presser foot and the needle entry point is too large.

The looper is bent. There are scratches on the looper.

Feeding amount of the needle thread is insufcient.

• Looper thread clamp/looper thread presser is weak and the looper thread comes off at the start of sew ing.

• The clearance between the presser foot and the needle entry point is too llarge.

• The cloth is opping.

Needle thread loop is too large and falls. As a result, it is not caught by the looper.

• Needle thread loop cannot be made. As a result, the looper cannot catch the thread

The feeding amount of needle thread is insufcient.

• The timing of the right-hand looper is too late.

• The opening amount of the right-hand spreader is insufcient.

The gimp is too hard.

• The needle thread tension is too high.

• The needle comes in contact with the blade point of the looper.

The thread paths in the needle, loopers, spreaders, throat plate, etc. have become worn out or conta in scratches.

• The thread is too thick or too thin for the needle.

There are scratches in the needle holeor needle slot. Page

• When changing needle size

• Wh e n k i n d of t h r e a d is affected

When sewing heavy-weight materials

Stitch skipping at the sewing start

Stitch skipping at eyelet section

Seam splitting at the sewing end

• Without needle thread clamp

8. Stitches at the straight section

of the seam at the straight section of the buttonhole are not uniform.

10. The shape of the eyelet

11. The seam is cut by the cut-

12. Needle thread cannot be

13. Looper thread cannot be

14. The cloth cannot be cut

Breakage of looper/spreader Corrective measure

Adjust the sewing conditions to obtain an appropriate thread tension.

• Check and adjust the installing position.

Adjust the clearance between the looper and the needle properly. Adjust the timing to open/close the spreaders properly.

• Check and adjust the clearance.

• Adjust the center of the needle.

• Check and adjust the clearance.

Check and adjust the height of the needle bar.

• Use the throat plate suitable for the needle.

• Increase the feeding amount of needle thread.

• Compensate the length by lengthwise compensation of left parallel section of the data compensation.

• Compensate the position by lengthwise compensation of left eyelet of the data compensation.

• Compensate the inclination by turning compensation of parallel section of the data compensation.

• Adjust so that the left- and right-hand side cloth opening amounts are equal.

Check and adjust the knife dropping position.

• Individually set the left- and right-hand sides of cut space.

Set the turning compensation/parallel section turning compensation.

Set the eyelet crosswise compensation/lengthwise compensation.

• Check and adjust the knife dropping position.

• Correct the presser foot or replace it with a new one.

• Replcae the throat plate with the optional one.

• Check the cut (eyelet) space and re-set it.

Check the knife dropping position, and correct or adjust it.

• Individually set the left- and right-hand sides of cut space.

Grind the knife or replace it with a new one.

• Check and adjust the stroke.

• Adjust the installing position (clearance between needle and knife) of the knife.

• Refer to “1. Stitch skipping”.

• Check and adjust the moving blade and the thread separating position.

• Grind the kinfe or replace it with a new one.

• Check and adjust the stroke.

• Check and adjust the tilt of the counter knife.

• Check and adjust the moving blade and the thread separating position.

• Adjust the knife pressure.

• Correct the surface of the knife holder with oil stone or the like.

• Grind the knife or replace it with a new one.

• Re-set the pressing amount (knife pressure).

• Set proper knife pressure to each sewing product after replacing the knife.

• Adjust the center of the needle.

• Check and adjust the clearance.

• Use the throat plate suitable for the needle. Cause

The looper thread tension is too high.

• The installing position of the left-hand spreader is incorrect.

• Refer to “5. Needle thread breakage” for details on other causes and corrective measures.

The needle interferes with looper, spreader, etc.

The needle comes in contact with the presser foot.

• The clearance between the needle and the looper varies according to the turning angle (0˚, 90˚ and 180˚).

The clearance between the needle and the needle guard is too large or the needle and the needle guard come in excessive contact with each other.

• The height of the needle bar has been improperly adjusted.

• The needle does not t the kind of throat plate (needle size used).

• Needle thread is depressed by the presser foot at the start of sewing.

• The left- and right-hand sewing pitches at the straight section are different from each other.

• The left- and right-hand positions at the straight section are different from each other.

• Stitches which should be parallel are slant.

• The left- and right-hand side cloth opening amounts are not equal.

Improper adjustment of the knife dropping position

There is shrinkage of cloth by sewing or step difference between left- and right-hand sides of cloth.

• The cloth is deformed by the seam.

Improper adjustment of the knife dropping position

• The cloth at eyelet section is opping.

• The gimp is moved to the inside needle side.

• The clearance between the cloth cutting knife and the needle is too small.

Improper adjustment of the knife dropping position

There is shrinkage of cloth by sewing or step difference between left- and right-hand sides of cloth.

• The needle thread trimming knife is dull.

The stroke of the needle thread trimming knife is incorrect.

• The needle thread trimming knife does not catch needle thread.

The last stitch has skipped.

• Installing position of the moving blade is incorrect.

• The stroke of the moving blade is incorrect.

• Contact of the moving knife and the counter knife is improper.

• Installing position of the thread separating plate is incorrect.

• The knife pressure is insufcient.

• Doubling the planes of the knife and the knife holder is incorrect.

Knife pressing amount (knife pressure) is insufcient.

• Knife pressure is too high and the knife blade has broken.

The clearance between the needle and the looper varies according to the angle (0˚, 90˚ and 180˚).

The clearance between the needle and the needle guard is too large or the needle and the needle guard come in excessive contact with each other.

• The needle does not t the kind of throat plate (needle size used). Page

, turn ON the power and the mode becomes the memory switch mode. Then various data can be changed.

1) Select memory switch No. with [LEFT ] key

4) After completion of setting, press [READY ]

to make the set value store in memory and the memory switch mode ends. When [RESET ] key

is pressed , the mode ends without storing the set value in memory. When turning OFF the power without pressing [READY ] key

, the setting is not stored in memory. (1) Operating procedure (2) Memory switch list

Setting range400 to 1,200400 to 2,200400 to 2,200400 to 2,200400 to 2,200400 to 2,2000 to 2550 to 2550 to 2550 to 2550 to 10 to 20 to 1FunctionSoft-start speed setting1st stitch (Inside needle outside needle)Soft-start speed setting1st stitch (outside needle inside needle)Soft-start speed setting2nd stitch (inside needle outside needle) Soft-start speed setting2nd stitch (outside needle inside needle)Soft-start speed setting3rd stitch (inside needle outside needle)Soft-start speed setting3rd stitch (outside needle inside needle)Needle thread tension setting at the time of thread trimmingLooper thread tension setting at the time of thread trimmingNeedle thread tension setting at the time of machine-stopLooper thread tension setting at the time of machine-stop Set position selectionOrigin position/FrontProduction counter selectionWithout/UP/DOWNSelection of starting when production counter is “0”Permitted/prohibitedDescription imited speed at the sewing start of the sewing machine is set. From inside needle to outside needle of 1st stitchLimited speed at the sewing start of the sewing machine is set. From outside needle to inside needle of 1st stitchLimited speed at the sewing start of the sewing machine is set. From inside needle to outside needle of 2nd stitchLimited speed at the sewing start of the sewing machine is set. From outside needle to inside needle of 2nd stitchLimited speed at the sewing start of the sewing machine is set. From inside needle to outside needle of 2nd stitchLimited speed at the sewing start of the sewing machine is set. From outside needle to inside needle of 3rd stitchNeedle thread tension value at the time of thread trimming is set.Looper thread tension value at the time of thread trimming is set.Needle thread tension value at the time of machine-stop is set.Looper thread tension value at the time of machine-stop is set.Position of presser when setting cloth is selected.0 : Origin position1 : Front position (Position is set at No. = 29.)Operation of production counter is selected. 0 : Without1 : UP counter (“ 1” per sewing cycle)2 : DOWN counter (“ 1” per sewing cycle)Whether prohibiting starting at count value “0” when production counter is set to DOWN counter is selected.0 : Starting permitted even when production counter value is “0”1 : Starting prohibited when production counter valueis “0”Setting unit

ENGLISH Setting range 0 to 1 0 to 80 0 to 80 0 to 1 0 to 1 0 to 1 0 to 1 0 to 1 0 to 1 0 to 64 0 to 1

100 to 300 50 to 500 0 to 300 80 to 300 0 to 1 0 to 99 0 to 50 0 to 1 0 to 3,000 Function Start Sw One-touch start ing selection With/without Function key F1 Data No. setting Function F2 key Data No. setting With/without setting of thread tension compensation value With/without Selection of data setting prohibition Permitted/prohibited Looper thread trimming control Presser comes down when returning to set position Temporary stop of cut-after knife Straight bar and cloth open Front set position Knife pressing amount data setting accepted Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.1) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.2) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.3) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.4) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.5) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.6) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.7) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.8) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.9) Knife pressing amount (Knife holder No.0) Knife lower stop time Number of low speed pulses to lower knife motor Number of low speed pulses to lift knife motor With/without needle thread clamp Number of stitches to open needle thread clamp Needle thread clamp travelling amount Needle thread draw-in 2-stage operation Lengthwise speed at the time of needle thread clamp Description Whether starting by start switch only is possible is selected. 0 : Presser comes down by presser switch, the machine is started by start switch 1 : Presser comes down by start switch and the machine starts (Presser switch is operative as well.) Data Nos. which are aassigned to Function F1 key are set. (Initial value ... Knife position compensation) Data Nos. which are assigned to Function F2 key are set. (Initial value ... Copy destination No.) Whether to set thread tension compensation value with NEEDLE/LOOPER key is selected. 0 : Without setting 1 : With setting Whether to prohibit data setting is selected. 0 : Permitted 1 : Prohibited (Thread tension is possible.) With/without looper thread trimming operation is set. 0 : Without 1 : With Whether presser returns to set position while it is lowered after sewing is selected. 0 : Presser goes up and returns to set position. 1 : Presser returns to set position while it is lowered and goes up. Whether to automatically stop temporarily before operation of cut-after knife and to make the knife operate by start switch is selected. 0 : Normal operation 1 : Cut-after knife automatically stops temporarily before operation and is operated by start switch. Whether to perform sewing with the cloth open mechanism opened in case of the pattern in which straight bar is set

0 : Normal operation 1 : Setting cloth with cloth open mechanism opened Position from the origin is set when “front” is selected with memory switch No. 11. Whether knife holder No. to which knife pressing amount has been set is set to pattern data is selected. 0 : Without (Knife holder No.0 xed) 1 : With (Knife holer Nos.0 to 9 set) Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.1 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.2 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.3 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.4 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.5 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.6 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.7 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.8 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.9 Knife pressing amount of knife holder No.0 Period of time of stopping at the lower position of knife Cutting speed section at the time of cloth cutting (Down) Cutting speed section at the time of cloth cutting (UP) With/without needle thread clamp operation is set. 0 : Without 1 : With Number of stitches at sewing start to open needle thread clamp is set. Setting of travelling amount by mm from end of sewing to close thread clamp 0 : 1-stage operat ion 1 : 2-stage operation Lengthwise jump feed speed from end of sewing to needle thread clamp Setting unit

pulse/sec. Initial value

H9 through L9 are displayed as well. However, they are the memory switches for the multicutting device. For the sewing machine not provided with the multicutting device, they are not effective even when the setting is changed.0

Description Sewing machine motor error Sewing machine motor doses not run or signal does not enter even when it is running. Looper thread trimming knife return error When the looper thread trimming knife has not returned at the timre of operation of the sewing machine or operation of looper thread trimming Lengthwise direction stepping motor origin sensor error When lengthwise direction origin sensor has not changed at the time of origin retrieval Crosswise direction stepping motor origin sensor error When crosswise direction origin sensor has not changed at the time of origin retrieval Turning stepping motor origin sensor error When turning origin sensor has not changed at the time of origin retrieval Cloth cutting knife stepping motor origin sensor error When cloth cutting knife origin sensor has not changed at the time of origin retrieval Air pressure lowering error When air pressure is lowered Head safety switch error When the sewing machine is operated with machine head raised Temporary stop switch When temporary stop switch is pressed while the sewing machine is operated Needle UP error When the needle bar is not in the upper position of the inside needle side Presser type error Data setting and presser type (thread trimming type) are different from each other (Note 1) Data setting range error Outside of setting range error at the time of data setting (Note 2) Data setting sewing length error (Note 3) Sewing length is over the sewing possible area at the time of data setting. Thread tension setting range error (Note 4) Outside of setting range error at the time of thread tension setting Data setting bartack duplication Taper bar, straight bar and round bar are duplicated. Setting range error of compensation of number of stitches at the end of sewing at the time of data setting of straight bar Cycle sewing pattern error Pattern No. is not set in cycle sewing. Presser type setting error (Note 5) Setting of DIP-SW of presser type is wrong. Backup memory error When backup data such as pattern No. or the like has not been stored in memory Memory switch error When data of memory switch has broken Pattern data error When pattern data has broken. Defective feed error When synchronization of the sewing machine and the feed is not obtained Fan error Error due to temperature detection inside the control box EEPROM write-in error Defective write-in at the time of memory switch or pattern data writing No.

How to reset Turn OFF the power. Remove the cause of error and press the RESET key. Turn OFF the power. Turn OFF the power. Turn OFF the power. Turn OFF the power. Supply air and press the RESET key. Return the machine head to its home position and press the RESET key. Press the RESET key. Upper position detection by turning handwheel by hand Perform pattern change/data change after pressing the RESET key. Change the data after pressing the RESET key. Change the data after pressing the RESET key. Change the thread tension after pressing the RESET key. Change the data after pressing the RESET key. Change the data after pressing the RESET key. Perform pattern change/cycle sewing setting after pressing the RESET key. Turn OFF the power. Change over the DIP-SW. Backup data will be initialized after pressing the RESET key. Memory switch data will be initialized in machine model setting after pressing the RESET key. Note 6 Pattern data will be initialized after pressing the RESET key. Turn OFF the power. Turn OFF the power. Clean the fan of the control box. Turn OFF the power. ENGLISH Note 1 : When changing the presser types S, M, and L of J and C types by the presser selection DIP switch, the pattern used before the change cannot be used. The standard patterns which can be used with the presser type S, M and L of J and C types are described in the table below. S and R types J and C types T type Without thread trimming memory switch 22 = 0

ith thread trimming memory switch 22 = 1

Remove the looper thread trimming unit in case of exceeding 38 mm. Note 4 : Set the thread tension within the range of 0

compensation value of thread tension

Note 5 : Setting of presser selection DIP switch other than the specied ones cannot be performed. Note 6 : F9 (machine model setting) may be displayed when replacing SYSTEM ROM. For machine model setting, refer to the Engineer’s Manual. Note 2 : Set the data within the range below. Sewing speed

(minus) eyelet reduced speed

Number of stitches of slant taper bar

number of stitches of taper bar Compensation of number of stitches of right taper bar

number of stitches of taper bar

compensation of turning

compensation of turning at parallel section

cut space + compensation of left cut space

Crosswise compensation of left eyelet

Crosshwise compensation of left parallel section

compensation of number of stitches at sewing end Set the above length within the range described in the table below. Presser type Standard pattern No. S 90, 91, 92 M 93, 94, 95, 96 L 97, 98, 99 S type No.90, No.91, No.92 C type standard M type No.93, No.94, No.95, No.96 J type standard L type No.97, No.98, No.99 C/J optional – For J and C types, the pattern from which the presser type is different cannot be used. The standard patterns which can be used with the respective presser types are as follows.

Setting item S and R types Pattern No.

Shape Knife No. 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 Cut length 22 26 Cut-before/cut- 1 2 after knife Number of 21 25 stitches of parallel Number of 11 5 11 5 11 5 11 5 11 5 stitches of eyelet Cut space 0.0 0.3 Eyelet space 0.0 0.4 Compensation of 0 knife position Compensation of 0 number of stitches at sewing end Compensation 0 of turning Compensation of 0 turning at parallel section Lengthwise comp- 0.0 ensation of eyelet Crosswise comp- 0.0 ensation of eyelet Crosswise 0.0 compensation of left eyelet Crosswise 0.0 compensation of left parallel Setting of stitch 2.3 bite width of right bottom of eyelet Sett ing of stitch 2.3 bite width of left bottom of eyelet Setting of stitch 2.3 bite width Length of taper bar

of slant taper bar Compensat ion of 0 number of stitches of right taper bar Shape of straight bar

ife holder No. 0 Sewing speed 1800 Reduced speed 0 of eyelet Soft-start

of the sewing start of thread tension Numbeer of stitches

of the sewing end of thread tension Data No. J , C and T types Pattern No.

2) Setting range of cut length

0 ... Decorative buttonhole Thread trimming type Setting range At the time of straight bar and round bar S/R Long thread trimming 10 to 38 mm 10 to 38 mm Long thread trimming without looper thread trimmer 10 to 50 mm 10 to 50 mm C Short thread trimming S 16 to 26 mm 16 to 24 mm J Short thread trimming M 24 to 34 mm 24 to 32 mm Short thread trimming L 32 to 42 mm 32 to 40 mm T Short thread trimming without gimp 10 to 34 mm 10 to 34 mm Setting item Knife No. Cut length Cut-before/cut-after knife Number of stitches of parallel Number of stitches of eyelet Cut space Eyelet space Compensat ion of knife position Compensation of number of stitches at sewing end Compensation of turning Compensation of turning at parallel section Lengthwise compensation of eyelet Crosswise compensation of eyelet Crosswise compensation of left eyelet Crosswise compensation of left parallel Setting of stitch bite width of right bottom of eyelet Setting of stitch bite width of left bottom of eyelet Setting of stitch bite width Length of taper bar Number of stitches of taper bar Taper bar offset Number of stitches of slant taper bar Compensation of number of stitches of right taper bar Shape of straight bar Number of stitches of round bar Compensation of left cut space Knife holder No. Sewing speed Reduced speed of eyelet Soft-start Number of stitches of the sewing start of thread tension Number of stitches of the sewing end of thread tension Needle thread tension Compensation of needle thread tension at right parallel section Compensation of needle thread tension at left parallel section Compensation of needle thread tension at top of eyelet Compensation of needle thread tension at right bottom of eyelet Compensation of needle thread tension at left bottom of eyelet Compensation of needle thread tension at right taper bar Compensation of needle thread tension at left taper bar Compensation of needle thread tension at straight bar Compensation of needle thread tension of right round bar Compensation of needle thread tension of left round bar Compensation of needle thread tension at sewing start Compensation of needle thread tension at sewing end Compensation of needle thread tension at the time of thread trimming Compensation of needle thread tension at the time of stop Looper thread tension Compensation of looper thread tension at right parallel section Compensation of looper thread tension at left parallel section Compensation of looper thread tension at top of eyelet Compensation of looper thread tension at right bottom of eyelet Compensation of looper thread tension at left bootom of eyelet Compensation of looper thread tension at right taper bar Compensation of looper thread tension at left taper bar Compensation of looper thread tension at straight bar Compensation of looper thread tension of right round bar Compensation of looper thread tension of left round bar Compensation of looper thread tension at sewing start Compensation of looper thread tension at sewing end Compensation of looper thread tension at the time of thread trimming Compensation of looper thread tensionat the time of stop Copy destination No. Unit

Description Shape of knife

Length of cloth cutting knife Operation of cloth cutting knife 0 : Without knife 1 : Cut-before knife 2 : Cut-after knife Number of stitches from parallel section to bottom of eyelet Number of stitches of top of eyelet Clearance of knife groove of parallel section Clearance of knife groove of eyelet Longitudinal compensation of whole needle entry Number of stitches to increase length at sewing end Compensation of turning at parallel section and eyelet section Compensation of turning of parallel section and bottom of eyelet Crosswise compensation of eyelet Lengthwise compensation of top of eyelet Lengthwise compensation of left side of top of eyelet Compensation of length from left side of bottom of eyelet to left side of parallel section Setting of stitch bite width of right side of bottom of eyelet Setting of stitch bite width of left side of bottom of eyelet Setting of stitch bite width Length of taper bar Number of st itches of taper bar Overlapping amount of left/right taper bars Number of stitches of slant section from taper bar to parallel section Number of stitches of compensation of right side of taper bar Shape of straight bar Number of stitches of round bar Compensation of clearance of left knife groove at parallel section Knife holder No. Sewing speed Reduced speed in terms of sewing speed of eyelet Number of times of needle entries of soft-start at sewing start Number of stitches of thread tension compensation at sewing start Number of stitches of thread tension compensation at sewing end Needle thread tension value Compensation value of needle thread tension at right side of parallel section Compensation value of needle thread tension at left side of parallel section Compensation value of thread tension at top of eyelet Compensation value of needle thread tension at right side of bottom of eyelet Compensation value of needle thread tension at left side of bottom of eyelet Compensation value of needle thread tension at right side of taper bar Compensation value of needle thread tension at left side of taper bar Compensation calue of needle thread tension at straight bar Compensation value of needle thread tension of right round bar Compensation value of needle thread tension of left round bar Compensation value of needle thread tension at sewing start Compensation value of needle thread tension at sewing end Compensation value of needle thread tension at the time of thread trimming of the sewing machine Compensation value of needle thread tension at the time of stop of the sewing machine Looper thread tension value Compensation value of looper thread tension at right side of parallel section Compensation value of looper thread tension at left side of parallel section Compensation value of thread tension at top of eyelet Compensation value of looper thread tension at right side of bottom of eyelet Compensation value of looper thread tension at left side of bottom of eyelet Compensation value of looper thread tension at right side of taper bar Compensation value of looper thread tension at left side of taper bar Compensation value of looper thread tension at straight bar Compensation value of looper thread tension of right round bar Compensation value of looper thread tension of left round bar Compensation value of looper thread tension at sewing start Compensation value of looper thread tension at sewing end Compensation value of looper thread tension at the time of thread trimming of the sewing machine Compensation value of looper thread tension at the time of stop of the sewing machine Pattern No. of storage destination which copies data. Setting range 0 to 6

0 to 2 3 to 100 stitches 4 to 20 stitches

30 to 0 stitches 0 to 90 0, 4 to 20

0 to 9 400 to 2,200 sti/min

600 to 0 sti/min 0 to 6 rotations 0 to 3 stitches 0 to 3 stitches 0 to 180

180 to 180 1 to 89 Pattern No. No.

%HL%HUKUXQJHLQHVKHLHQ7HLOV

FRANÇAIS [ Setting of needle thread tension ] Table1

QDTXHKD\DVLGRPRGL¿FDGDRDOWHUDGD

7HPSHUDWXUDGHOODPELHQWHRSHUDWLYR GDL&DL&

• All rights reserved throughout the world.

SEWING MACHINERY BUSINESS UNIT