3600 - Sewing machine HUSQVARNA - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL 3600 HUSQVARNA

Trim 2 cores same length Only for the British market! When changing plug wiring should be effected according to the instruction below. WIRING INSTRUCTIONS Fitted with3 AMP fuse r32mm

HUSQVARNA AB We have prepared this booklet, to let you know how to operate this sewing machine and how to make use of all its sewing possibilities We are quite sure that you will get many pleasant hours with your new sewing machine and that you will be successful in obtaining many fine results

Accessory box, contents Blindstitching, general Blidstitch hem Blindstitch, elastic Bobbin case Bobbin winding Buttonholes Buttonholes, reinforced Buttonhole knife Care of the machine Changing the light bulb Changing the needle Changing the snap-on presser foot Choice of needle and thread Cleaning Connecting the foot control Connecting the machine to the power outlet Contents of accessory box Darning Darning foot Darning stockings Double-action stitch Elastic blindstitch (blind hem) Extension table Feed dog, cleaning Feed dog, lowering Foot control Free arm Hook (shuttle) Insertion of bobbin case Invisible hem (hlindstitch) Light and light switch Lowering the feed dog Lower thread, bringing up Lower thread tension INDEX

Lower thread, threading Maintenance hints Needle, changing Needle and thread Open arm Packing and unpacking the machine Plugging in the machine to the power outlet Presser foot (regular) Putting the machine away Regular presser foot Reinforced buttonholes Reverse feeding (reverse stitching) Seam ripper Seams, setting of Selecting the stitch Shuttle (hook) Snap-on presser foot, changing Stitch length dial Stitch selector Straight stitching Stretch stitching Tensions Thread Thread cutter Threading lower thread Threading upper thread Thread tension Three-step zig-zag Unpacking the machine Upper thread tension Upper thread, threading Zig-zag stitching Zig-zag, three-step Zipper foot

Top thread guide Thread tension disc Thread take-up lever Thread tension scale Thread tension dial Thread guide with thread take-up spring Front thread guide Presser foot Feed dog Bobbin case Shuttle (book)

12. Bobbin case cover

The switch, C, for the light is also at the back of the machine. For changing the light bulb see page 30. Lighting The machine’s voltage is given on a plate, B, at the back of the machine. Ensure that the wall outlet voltage is the same as that of the machine. Then connect the machine to the proper wall outlet. Connection to wall outlet Pull the lead out of the foot control and place the control under the table. Insert the foot control plug into the socket, A, at the back of the machine. Connecting the foot control

When you need a larger working surfa table. ce, attach the ex tension There are two gr should be fitted ves underneath the extension ta There is also an onto corresponding studs on the e which extra support leg w fre hich should be lowe arm. ered. Extension table Trouser legs and sle making it easy to se eves can be drawn onto the fre free arm also mak w, to mend or to patch in these pa e arm rts as well as sew sm it much easier to attach collars an . The d cuffs

ild ren’s clothes, or stockings on the m darn socks and achine. Free arm

‘) Synthetic threads are not generally numbered.

Embroidery thread or Needle Darning No. thread

100/3 100/3 Silk thread

Coloured sewing thread No. 50-60

Sewing thread English No. Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the needle which is to be changed. When you insert the new needle, turn the flat side away from you and push the needle up into the needle socket as far as the stop. Tighten the screw so that the needle is held firmly. Changing the needle Mercerized cotton thread as well as synthetic thread is used for every kind of fabric. No. 30—50 embroidery or darning thread gives among other things fine buttonholes and nice top stitching. As the name implies, it is of course also used for embroidery and darning. You will find a picture of a needle on the inside of the shuttle door. The needle system has number 705 H. Use only needles marked in this way. The machine is fitted with needle No. 80. You will also find a number of extra needles of various sizes in the accessory box. With regard to the size of needle, it may be generally said that No. 80—90 can be used for most fabrics. For a finer thread and for sheer and tightly woven fabrics a finer needle should be used. For very heavy and stiff fabrics a coarse needle must be used. The higher the number, the coarser the needle. The sizes of thread and needle to be used are shown on the table. Needle and thread

Pull the spool arm, A, tow ards you until it stops. Ta empty bobbin from the acc essory box. In order to get ke an the bes possible result when bobbin winding, use only Husqvarn t plastic bobbins, which hav

types of bobbins cannot be three grooves in the hole. Other the bobbin winding device used, due to the construction of On one side of the bobbin with the hole outwards and there is a hole. Turn the bobbin slide the bobbin onto the bob spindle, B. bin Bobbin winding Raise the presser foot. Turn the the needle is at its highest pos handwheel toward you until place the spool of thread on ition. Pull out the spool pin, 1, Slide the thread into the thrthe pin. ead guide, 2, on the rear of the “upper” arm, Then draw the tension discs, 3, and down thread to the front between the aro continue the threading by und the thread guide, 4. Now drawing the thread fro right-to-left in the slot on the thread take-up lever, 5. Draw the thread behind the black ihread guide, 6. Thread needle, 7, from the front. the Threading the upper thread

Fig. 1 shows a correctly wound bobbin. Correct and incorrect bobbin winding You can wind the bobbin directly from the black thread guide. Draw the thread through the slot and between the tension/guide discs in the top of the bobbin winding arm. It might be desirable to reduce the thread tension a little. Wind the thread a few times around the bobbin in an anticlockwise direction. Hold the end of the thread while you press down the foot control. Release the thread as soon as winding starts. Stop winding before the bobbin is completely filled, as in fig. I below. If the machine is winding unevenly, see Correct and incorrect bobbin winding. Remove the bobbin. Cut the thread. Return the arm to the upright position. Bobbin winding (cont.)

Open the shuttle cover. There is a small recess on the free arm to facilitate the opening of the shuttle cover. Grasp the bobbin case with the thumb and index finger that the latch is depressed and draw out the bobbin case. The bobbin will remain in the case as long as the latch is de pressed. When you release the catch, the bobbin will released. Removing the bobbin case If the winding looks like fig. 3, check to see if the bobbin properly pressed in on the spindle. If this is correct, move is the screw slightly to the right until the winding becomes even. Tighten the screw. If you notice that the bobbin is winding unevenly as in fig. loosen screw A with the aid of the screwdriver, move the screw slightly to the left until the winding becomes even. Tighten the screw.

Push the bobbin case onto the spindle of the shuttle (hook) so that the projection of the bobbin case fits in the notch at the top of the shuttle cover. Press on the bobbin case slightly to be sure it is latched onto the spindle of the shuttle. Let the thread hang. Shut the door. Insertion of the bobbin case Slide the thread into the slot on the edge of the bobbin case. Pull the thread in under the tension spring. Check that the bobbin rotates in the direction of the arrow when the thread is pulled. When the bobbin is wound, place it in its case with the hole upwards The thread is then running as shown in the fig. Threading the lower thread

On the back of the presser bar you will find a notch, the thread cutter, which makes it easy for you to cut off the threads. Thread cutter Pull the threads about 6” (15 cm) towards the rear. If the thread ends are too short, the thread-may slide out of the eye of the needle when you begin to sew. Hold the threaded upper thread and turn the handwheel to ward you until the needle goes down through the needle plate, and then up again. When the needle is in its highest position, pull the upper thread and you will get a ioop of the lower thread which is easy to catch. You shouldn’t pull the upper thread too hard as this may damage the needle. Bringing up the lower thread

the in most special sewing cases it is sufficient to adjust only the lower adjust need you Rarely tension thread upper the thread tension. If it is necessary to adjust the tension of s acce the from river screwd small the out lower thread, take sory box. Fit it in the larger screw on the thread tension spring and turn it not more than 1/10th of a turn to the left loose. too

right the hard, the thread tension is too Tension of lower thread thread is The dial which regulates the tension of the upper ed by obtain graduated from 0 to 10. Normal thread tension The (a). other each setting the indicator points opposi and als materi differe suit

adjuste thread tension can be esses. thread thickn for the There is also a special mark on the thread tension dial This (b). holes button makin for tension that can be used etc. darnin for suitabl setting is also Tension of upper thread

A too heavy tension looks like the illustration in the middle. The lower illustration shows the correct thread tension. When you turn the dial to the righ upper thread lies straight and the the opposite occurs. The lower thread comes up in loops on top of the fabric. The thre ad tension is correct when the threads interlock in the middle of the layers of fabric. If you want to sew zig-zag, che same way as for straight stitching. the thread tension in the By using a too loose tension, the result will be as shown in the upper illustration. In order to easily understand the imp ortance of correct thread tension, you can try different thre ad tensions by sewing on a scrap of fabric. Use the same fabric you intend to work with. Begin by using a too loose tension , i.e. you turn the thread tension dial to 1. Look at the seam and you will find the lower thread lies straight and the upp er thread is drawn down into the lower side of the fabric. order to get a strong seam, the thre balanced so that the threads interloc ad tension should be k in the middle of the layers of fabric. Correct and incorrect thread tension

IIj_ There is a spring at the bottom of the ankle bracket. Slide on the presser foot so that the pin fits into the space between the bracket and the spring. Then press lightly backward and downward and the presser foot will snap into the correct position. The presser feet which accompany the machine are in the form of loose soles which are held in place on the presser foot “ankle” by a spring. If you wish to change the presser foot, turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is in the highest position. Remove the presser foot by drawing it to ward you while pressing slightly downward. Changing the snap-on presser foot The presser foot (41 11 383) which is fitted on the machine at delivery is used for normal straight stitching, zig-zag stitching and other utility stitches. As you can see, it has different notches which can be used as guides when sewing. If you wish to have a seam allowance about 1/4” (7 mm), let the material run even with the outer edge of the presser foot. (Applies to straight stitching with the needle in the middle position). By moving one step inwards, you will have a seam allowance of about 5/32” (4 mm). The innermost notch gives a seam allowance of about 5/64” (2 mm). Regular presser foot

The zipper foot (41 12 989) is attached in the same way as the regular presser foot. The construction of the zipper foot makes it possible to sew on both sides of the zipper without turning the work, by attaching the foot either to the left orto the right of the needle. Zipper foot The feed dog is lowered when carrying out certain darning work. You lower the feed dog by pressing the symbol J on the drop feed button. In order to raise the feed dog again, you press the symbol \ Lowering the feed dog

Stitch selector In the center of the stitch length dial is a button for reverse sewing. By pressing this button in, the machine will sew in reverse, and will resume normal forward sewing as soon as it is released. This is very useful when, for example, backtack ing at the end of a seam. The stitch length dial is graduated from 0 to 4 and is set to the desired stitch length, normally 2. Raise the needle to its highest position. Set the stitch selector to the straight stitching symbol Straight stitching Stitch length

Stitch length Raise the needle to its highest position. Set the stitch selector to the desired zig-zag width 2, 3 or 4 mm. (/64”, I/8’I or Set the stitch length dial to the desired length of stitch. Choose a suitable combination of stitch length and stitch width. The stitch length can be adjusted while you are sewing

/\/\/\/\/V\/ Stitch selector

Thread tension Stitch selector Raise the needle to its highest position. Set the stitch selector to symbol —.—. and the stitch length dial to 1. This stitch has a certain amount of “stretch” and should be used instead of ordinary straight stitch in stretchable fabrics. Stretch stitching Stitch length

Fold the fabric as shown in the illustration. Make sure that the fold line of the fabnc follows guide line B of the presser foot. Invisible and elastic blindstitching is further described on pages 20 and 21.

As fabrics may differ in thickness, the presser foot can be moved sideways so that guide line B of the presser foot can be adjusted to the thickness of the fabric The presser foot moves on the presser foot “ankle” by turn Turn or backwards ing the little red wheel A forwards the wheel towards when sewing in thin material and to wards + when sewing in thick material. Choose a suitable setting. You will find the blindstitching presser foot (41 15 331) in the accessory box. Attach it in the same way as the regular presser foot. Blindstitching, general

BB_/II_._IIIII.mIU_. Thread tension Stitch selector First read page 19. Raise the needle to its highest position. Set the stitch selector to symbol ...&...IL. Turn the stitch length dial to 2—2.5, which is a recommended basic setting. This setting is an average setting, which means that you can either increase or decrease the stitch length to vary the dis tance between the catches. Blindstitching is used for hemming skirts, for example, with out the stitches showing on the right side. It consists of small straight stitches and large zig-zag stitches. Blindstitching Stitch length Stitch length First read page 19. Raise the needle to its highest position. The stitch selector is set to symbol i\iJ Turn the stitch length dial to 1—1.5 as a recommended basic setting. This is an average setting, which means that you can increase or decrease the stitch length to vary the distance between the catches. Instead of straight stitches, the elastic blindstitch has small zig-zag stitches between the larger zig-zag stitches. It is used for hemming elastic fabrics, particularly those that stretch sideways a lot. Elastic blindstitch Thread tension

Thread tension Stitch selector Raise the needle to its highest position. Set the stitch selector to symbol /\/\/\ Turn the stitch length dial to 1 as a recommended basic setting. Three-step zig-zag is used for sewing towelling, jersey and knitwear, for overcasting in elastic, thin or easily frayed fabrics and for darning and mending. Three-step zig-zag Stitch length

Stitch length Raise the needle to its highest position. Set the stitch selector to symbol i\I\i\f\Ai and the thread tension dial between 3 and 5. Turn the stitch length dial to 1/2 as a recommended basic setting. With the double action stitch you can sew seams together and overcast simultaneously, e.g. in double knit (jersey), knitted fabric etc. It is also used for mending seams in underwear and knitwear. It gives a certain measure of stretchability. The double action stitch can also be used very effectively for overlapped seams and patching. Double action stitch Thread tension

Thread tension Stitch selector ge over to the In order to sew buttonholes, you should chan the accessory

find will buttonhole foot (41 11 650). You ary presser ordin the way same the box and it is attached to help you foot. The buttonhole foot has graduated markings th. make the buttonholes the same leng thread ten Loosen the upper thread tension by turning the bol. sym nhol butto the sion dial to thread. The buttonhole will look better, if you use a fine nhole. butto the place want you Mark on the fabric wher h set stitc the Always first test sew a buttonhole and adjust ting. that the Put the fabric under the presser foot, remembering to its need the machine begins to sew in reverse. Rais step show ing e-sew nhol highest position. The butto page step on the next Buttonholes Stitch length

Now the machine makes the final closing bar. Sew three or four stitches. Turn to symbol and lock the threads with a few stitches while holding back the fabric. Page 28 shows how to cut buttonholes. Now sew the other column of zig-zag stitches the same dis tance as the first one. Stop with the needle in its highest position and turn the dial back to symbol 2/4. Now the machine makes the closing bar. Sew three or four stitches. Then stop the machine with the needle raised out of the fabric and turn the dial to symbol 3. Set the stitch selector to symbol I. The machine sews the first column of zig-zag stitches in reverse. When the column is the right length, stop the machine with the needle raised out of the fabric and turn the dial to symbol 2/4.

Then turn the dial to symbol 1 again and sew the first column once more. If you should have difficulty with the feed, in crease the stitch length slightly. When the column is the right length, stop the machine, with the needle raised, and turn the dial to symbol 3. Sew the second column without making any closing bar. Stop with the needle raised when the columns are the same length. Garments subject to heavy wear or buttons subject to special strain may sometimes require even stronger buttonholes. Set the stitch selector to symbol 1 and sew the first column in exactly the same way as for an ordinary buttonhole but with slightly longer stitches. Reinforced buttonholes

The next page shows how to cut buttonholes. closing Turn the dial to symbol 2/4 again and make the second bar by sewing three or four stitches. symbol Stop with the needle raised and turn the dial to s, while stitche few with threa the lock and holding back the fabric. n once Turn the dial to symbol 3 and sew the second colum fabric. the out raised needle the more. Stop with bar by sewing Turn the dial to symbol 2/4. Make the closing out of the raised needle three or four stitches. Stop with the fabric.

Cut the buttonhole to the middle and then repeat the cut from the other direction. With the knife more or less parallel to the fabric, push for ward taking care not to cut through the end of the buttonhole. The small red bead serves as a guide. Pierce the fabric at right angles until the curved blade edge reaches down to the buttonhole. The buttonhole knife (40 15 399), which you will find in the accessory box, is equipped with a safety cap which, when taken off, can be pushed onto the back of the knife, providing a good handle. Buttonhole knife

Set the machine to zig-zag, stitch length 3. Lower the feed dog and set the thread tension between 3 and 5. Thread the machine with darning cotton and draw the thread through the needle hole of the presser foot. Pull the sock over the free arm and place the hole under the darning foot. Lower the darning foot and bring up the lower thread. Place a strand of light yarn in the groove of the darning foot and fasten it with a few stitches on the edge of the hole. Stretch the socks with your fingers and sew the woolen yarn across the hole at slow speed, guiding the work from side to side. Cut off the yarn when the hole is filled and dam back and forth with zig-zag across the yarn. The darn becomes stiff when sewing too close. Darning socks Use darning thread No. 40—50 and set the machine to straight stitching, with the thread tension dial between 3 and 5. Stretch the work in a hoop and place it under the darning foot so that the fabric rests against the table. Lower the presser foot and bring up the lower thread. Fasten the threads with a few stitches on the edge of the fabric and begin by sewing back and forth over the hole with long stitches. Since the feed dog is disengaged, you guide the hoop back and forth yourself and thus determine the stitch length. The faster you move the hoop, the longer the stitches will be. Keep the machine speed uniform. Then turn the work 90° and darn across the hole with short stitches which are obtained by moving the hoop slowly back and forth. If the hole is large, cover it with gauze and then darn as described above. (Darning can also be done on the bias of the fabric or in circles if this would be better suited to the structure of the fabric.) Darning Raise the needle to the highest position. Press arms A and C together between thumb and index finger, place them behind the needle clamp, B, and attach the darning foot, 4115 275, in the same way as the other presser feet, by pressing the pin between the spring and the presser foot “ankle”. The action of the darning foot is accomplished by the needle clamp. Make sure that hook C rests against support D. Lower presser foot lifter E. on the The feed dog is lowered by pressing symbol drop feed button. Darning foot

The light bulb is placed in the upper arm as shown in the illustration. Push the bulb upwards, turn it 1/4 of a turn to the left and take it out. When inserting a new bulb, put it into the socket, press it upwards and turn it 1/4 of a turn to the right. The correct wattage of the bulb is shown on the plate at the back of the machine. Changing the light bulb Belt adjustment not required. Belts In order to serve you satisfactorily, your new sewing machine requires cleaning. The throat plate (needle plate) should oc casionally be removed and the teeth of the feed dog brushed clean with the cleaning brush (40 15 555) which is in the box of accessories. Whenever necessary, the bobbin case and shuttle (hook) should also be brushed clean. Sizing or fmishing compounds from the fabric can adhere to the spindle of the shuttle and affect the machine’s performance. In such a case the spindle should be cleaned with the cleaning brush. Also check that any thread remainders, wound around the spindle, are re moved. Care of the machine Needle breaks

1. Needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 6.

2. You may have helped the machine to feed through the

fabric by pulling it. The needle can then easily come against the throat plate and be broken.

3. The needle is not the right size. Use Husqvarna 705 H

Unattractive stitches unattractive seam

1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 6.

2. The needle is bent or blunt. Change the needle.

3. The thread tension is not correct. See page 12.

4. The machine is incorrectly threaded. See pages 7—8.

5. The needle, thread and fabric o not correspond. See

6. The lower thread is not the same thickness as the

7. The lower thread is unevenly wound. See page 8—9.

8. The bobbin is incorrectly inserted in the bobbin case.

9. Lint or thread is wrapped around the spindle of the

shuttle. See page 30. In most cases poor sewing results are due to a blunt or damaged needle. Therefore always examine the needle first before taking any other action. Maintenance hints

The bobbin case is incorrectly inserted. See page 10. The lower thread is incorrectly threaded. See page 10. The lower thread is too tightly tensioned. See page 12. The bobbin is unevenly wound. See pages 8—9. The bobbin is wound too full. See page 8. The throat plate hole is damaged. Polish it with an emery cloth or change the throat plate, see page 30.

7. Lint or thread is wrapped around the spindle of the

shuttle. See page 30. Lower thread breaks Upper thread breaks

1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 6.

2. The needle is bent or blunt. Change the needle.

3. The upper thread is incorrectly threaded. See page 7.

4. The upper thread is too tightly tensioned. See pages

5. The thread is knotted.

6. The needle and thread do not correspond. See table,

7. The hole in the throat plate is chipped and has sharp

edges. Polish with an emery cloth or change the throat plate. See page 30.

8. The needle groove or needle eye has sharp edges.

Change needle. See page 6.

9. Thread is entangled on the spool pin.

Stitch length varies The feed dog is choked by dust and dirt. Clean it with the special brush or small screwdriver. See page 30.

I. The upper thread is too tightly tensioned. See page

2. The upper and lower thread tension is too tight in

relation to the thickness of the fabric. See page 12.

3. The needle is damaged. Change the needle.

Fabric puckers Irregular bobbin winding

1. The bobbin is not pressed in far enough. See page 10.

2. The machine is not correctly threaded for bobbin

winding. See page 8.

3. The thread guide for bobbin winding is not correctly

adjusted. See page 9. Uneven thread tension This may be due to poor thread quality. Lower thread not brought up by the upper thread The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 6. Maintenance hints (cont.) Machine runs sluggishly

I. Dirt or lint has got under the throat plate. Loosen the

throat plate and brush clean between the teeth of the feed dog. See page 30.

2. Dirt or lint has got into the shuttle. Take out the

bobbin and bobbin case and brush clean with special brush. See page 30.

3. The wall outlet voltage is too low.

Machine does not feed the fribric

1. The stitch length dial is set on 0.

2. The feed dog is lowered. Raise it by pressing the

on the drop feed button. See page 15. symbol The seani is too loose. Fabric layers not held together The thread tension is too slack. See page 12.

I L 4112 697 Screwdriver Bobbins, 8 40 15 399 Buttonhole knife (seam ripper) ===rzzzD 40 15 555 Cleaning brush Concents of accessory box

Regular presser foot mounted on the machine.

Place the cover in front of you so that the little mark faces you. Pull the locking lips as shown in the illustration. Lift off the cover and put it aside. Remove the foot control A. Slide the accessory box B with the extension table to the left. For further details, see page 3. Unpacking the machine Pull the leads out of the wall outlet and the machine. Wind the leads around your hand and put them inside the foot control. Put the extension table and the operating manual into the accessory box, B. Slide the accessory box on the machine. Put the foot control, A, between the free arm and the upper arm. Put on the cover. Putting the machine away 41 15 242—28