5710 - Sewing machine HUSQVARNA - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL 5710 HUSQVARNA

Operating Manual Viking 5710

For you and

your new

Viking

We have prepared this booklet, to let you know

Prepared this booklet, to let you know how to operate this sewing machine and how to make best use of all its sewing possibilities.

We hope you will have many pleasant hours with your new sewing machine.

HUSQVARNA AB, SWEDEN

US Factory Subsidiary:

Viking Sewing Machine Co., Inc. 2300 Linnings, Inc.

2500 Louisiana Ave. North, Minneapolis, Minn. 55427

Minneapolis, Minn. 55427.

In countries other than the U. S. A. and the U. K., Viking sewing machines are sold under the name "Husqvarna". For practical reasons the illustrations in this manual show machines with the Husqvarna name.

Table of contents

(1)

Fine adjustment of buttonhole sewing	40	Presser foot pressure	16
Foot control	6	Putting the machine away	6
Free-arm	7	Raised seams	44
Free-hand embroidery	46	Reinforced buttonholes	41-42
Gathering	22, 26	Reverse stitching	21
General hints	20	Seams with edges overcast together	35
Glide plate	17	Selecting the stitches	21-42
Hook (shuttle)	13	Sewing on buttons	45
Knit stitch (overlock)	34	Shuttle (hook)	13
Lace	26-27	Spool pins	10
Light and light switch	7	Stitch length dial	21
Lowering the feed dog	45	Stitch selector	21
Lower thread, bringing up	14	Straight stitching	21
Lower thread tension	15	Tacking (basting)	22
Lower thread, threading	13	Tensions	15-16
Maintenance hints	49-50	Terry cloth (towelling)	29
Mending	30	Thread and needle	9
Needle, changing	9	Thread cutter	14
Needle and thread	9	Threading lower thread	13
Open arm	7	Threading upper thread	10
Operation guide	58-60	Thread tension	15, 16
Overcasting	29	Three-step zig-zag	28
Overcasting and assembling	37	Top stitching	37
Overlock (elastic knit stitch)	34	Unpacking the machine	6
Packing and unpacking the machine	6	Upper thread tension	15
Plugging in the machine to the power outlet	7	Upper thread, threading	10
Presser bar lever	8	Utility stitch presser foot	17
Presser feet	17	Zig-zag presser foot	17
Presser foot for thin fabrics	18	Zig-zag stitching	25
Presser foot for thin fabrics	18	Zipper foot	23
Presser foot for thin fabrics	18	Zippers, sewing in	22, 24

Accessory box, contents	50-51
Appliqués	27
Basting (tacking)	22
Blind hem	32
Blind hem, elastic	33
Blindstitching	31-33
Bobbin case	12-13
Bobbin winding	11-12
Bound edges	26
Bringing up lower thread	14
Buttons, sewing on	45
Buttonhole knife	43
Buttonholes	38-42
Care of the machine	48
Changing the light bulb	48
Changing the needle	9
Changing the presser foot ankle	19
Changing the snap-on presser foot	19
Choice of needle and thread	9
Cleaning	48
Connection to wall socket	7
Contents of accessory box	51-52
Darning	47
Elastic blind hem	33
Elastic blindstitch	33
Elastic knit stitch (overlock)	34
Elastic straight stitch	36-37
Extension table	8
Extra accessories	53-57
Feed dog, cleaning	48
Feed dog, lowering	45

1. Drop feed button

31: Bobbin winding arm 32: Bobbin winding spindle

1. Needle canap screw 10. Needle
2. Pressbar 18. Needle bar
3. Base plate 16. Presser foot finish
4. Dooon case 13. Shuttle case cover
5. Feed dog 12. Bob it

Unpacking the machine

Unpacking the machine

Pace the machine on the table with the little mark on top of the cover facing you. Pull the locking clips

from the handle, lift off the cover and put it aside.

RemovethefootcontrolA.

Lift the accessory box B somewhat and slide it too

the left, away from the machine.

Putting the machine away

Connecting the foot control

Pull the lead out of the foot control and place the
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into the socket, A, at the back of the machine

By means of the presser bar lever at the rear of the machine, the presser foot can be raised and lowered. When raising, the presser foot will remain in the raised position, but the height can be doubled by pushing the presser bar lever upwards and holding it in this position. Useful when you want to put gar-ments with thick seams etc. under the presser foot. The presser foot should be lowered during sewing.

When you need a larger working surface, attach the extension table. There are two grooves underneath the extension table which should be fitted onto corresponding studs on the free arm. There is also an extra support leg which should be lowered.

Extension table

Needle and thread

Mercerized cotton thread as well as synthetic thread is used for all sorts of fabrics. A special embroidery or darning thread could be used for decorative stitching. As the name implies, it is of course also

used for embroidery and darning.

The needle system has number 705H and is adapted to a range of sizes such as jersey, etc. Use only

to modern materials, such as jersey, etc. Use only in the case of a car in this way. The machine is fitted

with needle No. 80. You will also find a number of

extra needles of various sizes in the accessory box.

With regard to the size of needle, generally No.

A 80-90 can be used for most fabrics. For a finer fabric, use a finer fabric or finer fabric or finer

thread and for sheer and tightly woven fabrics a finer, more delicate thread of woven fabric made from

The needle should be used in order to avoid damaging the

the fabric.

be used. The higher the number, the coarser the

needle. The sizes of thread and needle to be used are

is shown in the table.

Regarding special needles, see Extra accessories.

Changing the needle

Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the needle which is to be changed. When you insert the

new needle, turn the flat side away from you and

will go. Tighten the screw so that the needle is held

firmly.

1) Synthetic threads are not generally numbered.

Sewing thread English or USA No.	Silk thread	Synthetic thread	Embroidery thread or Darning thread	Needle Width No.
60			60	70
50-60	100/3	1)	40-50	80
40-50	100/3	1)	30-50	90
40			20	100
30				110
30				120

of the 'upper', arm. Then draw the thread to the front between the tension discs, 3, and down around the thread guide, 4. Now continue the threading by drawing the thread from right-to-left in the slot on the thread take-up lever, 5. Draw the thread behind the black thread guide, 6. Thread the needle, 7, from the front. Due to the white field on the presser foot clamp the needle-eye appears very clearly and in this way the threading of needle, 7, is easier.

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Threading the upper thread

machine

Pull out one of the spool pins at the back of the

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Bobbin winding

Take an empty bobbin from the accessory box. In

order to get the best possible result when bobbin

winding, use only Husqvarna-Viking transparent

bobbins, which have three grooves in the hole.

Other types of bobbins cannot be used, due to the

construction of the bobbin winding device.

On one side of the bobbin there is a marking. Turn

the bobbin with the marking outwards and slide the

bobbin onto the bobbin spindle, B.

to the upright position.

Remove the bobbin. Cut the thread. Return the arm

and incorrect bobbin winding'.

If the machine is winding unevenly, see "Correct

filled, as in fig. 1 on page 12.

starts. Stop winding before the bobbin is completely

foot control. Release the thread as soon as winding

Hold the end of the thread while you press down the

around the bobbin in an anti-clockwise direction.

bobbin winding arm. Wind the thread a few times

between the tension/guide discs in the top of the

until it stops. Draw the thread through the slot and

thread guide. Pull the spool arm, A, towards you

You can wind the bobbin directly from the black

6

winding

Correct and incorrect bobbin

Fig. 1 shows a correctly wound bobbin.

If you notice that the bobbin is winding unevenly as in fig. 2, loosen screw A with the aid of the screwdriver, move the screw slightly to the left until the winding becomes even. Tighten the screw.

If the winding looks like fig. 3, check to see if the bobbin is properly pressed in on the spindle. If this is correct, move the screw slightly to the right until the winding becomes even. Tighten the screw.

Removing the bobbin case

Open the shuttle cover. There is a small recess on
Grasp the bobbin case with the thumb and index
f finger so that the latch is depressed and draw out the bobbin case. The bobbin will remain in the case as
long as the latch is depressed. When you release the
cach, the bobbin will be released.

Threading the lower thread

When the bobbin is wound, place it beside its case with the marking upwards. The thread is then run

ning as shown in the fig. Place the bobbin in its case without turning it around.

Slide the thread into the slot on the edge of the

bobbin case.

Pull the thread in under the tension spring. Check that it holds the same direction of the arrow.

that the bobbin rotates in the direction of the arrow when the thread is pulled.

Insertion of the bobbin case

Push the bobbin case onto the spindle of the shuttle
(hook) so that the projection of the bobbin case fits
in the notch at the top of the shuttle cover. Press on
the bobbin case slightly to be sure it is latched onto
the door.

Bringing up the lower thread

Hold the threaded upper thread slack and turn the

handwheel towards you until the needle goes down

through the needle plate and then up again. When

the needle is in its highest position, pull the upper

thread and you will get a loop of the lower thread

which is easy to catch. You shouldn't pull the upper

thread too hard as this may damage the needle.

__________

Thread cutter

the thread cutter, wh

the thread cutter , which makes it easy for you to cut

off the threads.

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In order to get a strong seam, the thread tension should be balanced so that the threads interlock in the middle of the layers of fabric.

In order to understand more easily the importance of correct thread tension, you can try different thread

tensions by sewing on a scrap of fabric. Use the same fabric you intend to work with.

Begin by using a too loose tension, i.e. you turn the thread tension dial to 1. Look at the seam and you

When you turn the dial to the right, the opposite

When you turn the dial to the right, the opposite occurs. The upper thread lies straight and the lower

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in the middle of the layers of fabric.

If you want to sew zig-zag, check the thread tension

in the same way as for straight sutching.

Presser foot pressure

The presser foot pressure can be adjusted with the
aid of a dial located on the left side of the machine.
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For close zig-zag stitching, the utility presser foot (41 14 512-01) is more suitable.
he presser foot is best suited for straight stitching and wide zig-zag.
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and/or have a glossy surface. The underneath is designed in such a way that it secures the material
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Preser foot for thin fabrics

Changing the presser foot. ankle's Certain presser feet cannot be constructed as loose soles and then the ankle bracket must also be changed. Make sure that the needle is in its highest position. Then screw off the retaining screw and remove the presser foot ankle.

There is a spring at the bottom of the ankle bracket. Slide on the presser foot so that the pin fits into the space between the bracket and the spring. Then press lightly backward and downward and the pres- ser foot will snap into the correct position.

The presser feet which accompany the machine are in the form of loose soles which are held in place on the presser foot 'ankle' by a spring. If you wish to change the presser foot, turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is in the highest position. Re- move the presser foot by drawing it toward you while pressing slightly downward.

Changing the snap-on presser foot

at least 6 inches (15 cm) of thread in the needle so that it will not be drawn out of the eye of the needle when the next seam is started.

Lock the thread ends by pressing the reverse button.
making the machine sew backwards. When sewing
utility or zig-zag stitches you can lock the thread
ends by holding back the fabric or lowering the
feed-dog and sewing a few stitches.
Before you remove the fabric, the machine should
have fully completed the last stitch, with the needle
in its highest position.

When turning a corner, stop with the needle down in the fabric and raise the presser foot. This also ap- pries when stopping the machine in order to re-ar- range the work.

Start the machine gently and increase the speed gradually. Watch the presser foot to ensure that it follows an edge or a seam - don't watch the needle. The best way to hold the fabric is when you rest the left hand lightly on the fabric at A and guide it forward. With the right hand you hold the edge of the fabric at B and guide the work. Don't pull the fabric, only guide it towards the presser foot and let the machine do the feeding.

Always start a straight seam by turning the hand- wheel towards you so that the needle enters the seam line, then lower the presser foot. When sewing zig-zag and other stitches, first lower the presser foot, then lower the needle. When sewing on thin and soft fabrics, start the seam about 1/4'' from the edge of the fabric to prevent it from being pulled down into the needle hole in the throat plate. If you wish to extend the seam out to the very edge of the fabric, sew a few reverse stitches and then hold the thread behind the presser foot when sewing forward again.

General hints

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Set the machine to zig-zag. Remove the presser foot, including the 'ankle', shank, and remember to low- er the presser bar in order to tension the upper thread. Press the material against the stitch plate. Move the work slowly. The machine speed should be high so that the stitches will be close together.

Free-hand embroidery is suitable for decorations or monograms on garments. It needs practice, how- ever. If you have a steady hand, you'll soon learn the technique. Draw the pattern on tissue paper, pin it to the fabric and sew the outline with straight stitch. Use embroidery cotton No. 50-40. Remove the paper. Stretch the fabric in a hoop.

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Lower thread not brought up by the upper thread The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 9.
Stitch length varies 1. The feed dog is choked by dust and dirt. Clean it with the straw, which is small enough to make a small convroduicer. See

Uneven thread tension This may be due to poor quality thread.
Irregular bobbin winding
1. The bobbin is not pressed in far enough. See page

1. The machine is not co
   winding. See page 11.
2. The thread guide for bobbing
   rectly adjusted. See page 12.

Fabric puckers
1. The upper thread is too tightly tensioned. See
page 16.
2. The upper and lower thread tension is too tight in
relation to the thickness of the fabric. See pages
15-16.
3. The needle is damaged. Change the needle. See
page 9.

50

Machine runs sluggishly
1. Dirt or lint has got under the throat plate. Loosen the throat plate and brush clean between the teeth of the feed dog. See page 48.
2. Dirt or lint has got into the shuttle. Take out the bobbin and bobbin case and brush clean with special brush. See page 48.
3. The wall socket voltage is too low.

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Jnne nnnnns nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nnnn nn

3 19/5 10+8E II I

ssssse 1x

Extra accessories

41 11 822-01. Bias binder. Can be used for 8, 10, 12 and 15mm wide folded edgings and 22 - 24~mm (^7 / 8'' - ^15 / _16'') wide unfolded edgings. Seam distance can be varied.

41 13 931-01. Marking stitch foot, which is used for transferring instructions from the paper pattern to the fabric. For zig-zag, stitch length 2-2.5, and loose upper thread tension.

40 15 367-01. Hemstitcher. Put the fork between two layers of material, which are sewn together with straight stitching and long stitches. (Note: In parts of the U.S.A. "hemstitching" may have a different meaning.)
41 13 458-01, 1 3/16" (30 mm). 41 13 458-02, 1 25/32" (45 mm). Weaver's reed for rug sewing. Wind the yarn over the reed and sew on with straight stitch.

Thread tension Stitch length Stitch selector Presser foot

Three-step zig-zag Overcasing in elastic, thin or easily frayed fabrics. Sewing in terry cloth.

Mending Mending and darning in all fabric. Mending and darning in all fabric.

Elastic knife stitch Sews and finishes seams in one operation. For stretch and non- stretch materials, especially fibrics that tend to fray.

Elastic straight stitch Joining of elastic fabrics. Extra strong, for example for crotch sewing, and arm insertion.

Top stitching Decorative stitching. Briditching hemming Hemming in close-woven fabrics. Finishing of edges.

Elastic blinditch hemming Hemming in elastic fabrics. Blindstitching presser foot 41 15 331-01 41 15 331-01

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