1222, 1222E - Sewing machine PFAFF - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL 1222, 1222E PFAFF

:oreword ‘arts ofthePfaff 1213 arts of Ptaff machines 3 214 and 1222-E 4 viachine drive 5 g windin bobbin for s ation repar 3 6 Removing the bobbin case 7 Bobbin winding 7 nism mecha sewing the aging Diseng 8 Inserting the bobbin 9 case Inserting the bobbin 10 ng threadi Upper 11 Automatic needle threader 12 thread bobbin Drawing up the 12 Thread cutter 13 Before you start sewing 14/15 r selecto Ultra-Matic stitch 15 Straight stitching 15 Zigzag stitching 15 l Foot contro 16 Reverse sewing 16 feed Dropping the machine 17 lifter Presser bar 17 Stopmatic control 18/19 Dual feed

Sewing over cross seams Electronic control Changing the needle Changing the sewing foot Regulating the thread tensions Detachable workplate Felling Hemming Zipper insertion Darning Basting Single-needle cording Shirring with filler thread Overcasting edges Cording Inserting lace Elastic zigzag seam Appliqué work Needle position control Button sewing Sewing buttonholes Monogram embroidery Quilting Edge stitching Darning with wool thread

V&id for United Kingdom ony!

in accordance with The wires in this mains lead are coloured Live. : Brown l, Neutra Blue: code: the following lead of this appliance As the colours of the wires in the mains gs identifying markin ed colour the with ond may not corresp s: follow as d procee plug, your the terminals in connected to the The wire which is coloured blue must be or coloured black. N letter the with marked is terminal which

Page 19 19 20 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 28 29 30 31 32 34 35 36 38 39 40 42 43 43 44

Page 45 46 48 48 49 50 51 52 53 54

Eyelet embroidery Utility-stitch mechanism Mending hems Darning rips Sewing on elastic Stitching terry cloth Elastic triple straight stitch seam Shell edging Blindstitching Inserting patches Reinforcing edges of elastic 55 woven fabrics 55 fabrics knitted Joining elastic 56 Utility-stitch combinations 56 Sewing on elastic strands 57 fabrics jersey and knitted Joining 57 Elastic triple zigzag stitch 57 Reinforcing hems in elastic fabrics 58 nism mecha stitch tive Decora Ornamental stitch combinations 60/61/62 63 Needle and thread chart 64 oiling and ng Cleani 65 Changing the light bulb 65 Trouble shooting 66 Carrying case

ted to the The wire which is coloured brown must be connec ed red. terminal which is marked with the letter L or colour Please note: has to be When 13 amperes plug is used a 3 amperes fuse fitted.

Uz1I® Instruction Book for the Push-Button Pfaff 1213, 1214

and 1222-E Dear (new) Pfaff Customer: the Welcome to the modern, efficient world of very ly probab are You e. machin Pfaff sewing we anxious to try out your new machine, but read to time the suggest that you first take this instruction booklet. Your Pfaff sewing like machine is very versatile, and we would you things rful wonde the to tell you about all can create with it, the We suggest that you thumb through s 2 page at it open then booklet first and of parts tial essen most the where and 3, ying your machine are illustrated. By identif y quickl will you e, machin your these parts on Pfaff. your with lf yourse rize familia

We recommend that you study these sewing instructions carefully, and hope that sewing re. with your Pfatf will always be a pleasu

PFAFF-HANDELSG ESELLSCHAFT für Haushaltnähmaschinen m.b.H. 7500 Karlsruhe 41 West-Germany

o you know which button to press,

ere are the most essential parts of tour Pfaff 1213:

1 Take-up lever 2 Thread retainer stud 3 Push button (K) 4 Top cover lid 5 Spool pins 6 Indicator wheel (S) 7 Pattern length wheel (E) 8 Bobbin winder Ba Balance wheel with stop motion knob 9 Ultra-Matic stitch selector 10 Needle position control (D) 11 Buttonhole control () 12 Master on-off switch (C) 13 Base (of portable machInes) 14 Bed cover 15 Sewing foot 16 Dualfeed 17 Needle threader control 18 Upper tension 19 Reverse-teed control 20 Presser bar lifter (on back of machine aim) 21 Thread cutter 2

• and this is how your Pfaff 1214 or 1 222-E looks:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 8a 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

Take-up lever Thread retainer stud Push button (K) Topcoverlid Spool pins Indicator wheel (S) Pattern length wheel (E) Bobbin winder Balance wheel with stop motion knob (Pfaff 1214) Ultra-Matic stitch selector Needle position control (D) Buttonhole control (1) Master on-off switch (C) Free arm Free arm cover (enclosing the sewing hook) Sewing foot Dualfeed Needle threader control Upper tension Reverse-feed control Presser bar lifter (on back of machine arm) Thread cutter

o start sewing right away.

only a few simple steps are necessary. Just plug in the machine, wind the bobbin and thread the needle. Push the master plug into socket A in the machine base, and plug B into the wall socket. Place the foot control under the table in a convenient position. All you have to do now is push button C which is the on-off control of your machine This button also switches on the glare-free sewing light. 4

Before you start winding the bobbin remember that you need two threads to sew a seam: an upper and a lower thread. These two threads are locked together in the middle of the fabric to form a lock stitch. The seam produced in this way is illustrated below. If your seam doesn’t look like the illustration, turn to page 21. To wind the bobbin, turn the machine on by pushing button C (page 4). The sewing mechanism must be disengaged (see page 7). For step-by-step bobbin winding instructions please refer to page 7.

ro remove the bobbin case.

Make sure the needle is posiboned above the need’e plato. On the Pfaff 1213 remove the bed cover. Lift latch K (see ill.) and pull out the bobbin case with the bobbin. The bobbin cannot faH out as long as you hold the bobbin case by its open latch. When you release the latch, the empty bobbin drops out. On Ptaff machines 1214 and 1222E open the free-arm cover and swing it toward the just like with the Pfaff 1213 left. Then pull out the bobbin case with and K latch lift the bobbin. —

I to wind the bobbin and disengage the sewing mechanism:

The bobbin winder stops automatically when the bobbin is full,

Raise both spool pins and place a spool of thread on one of them. Simply place the bobbin on bobbin winder disc S where it is held in position magnetically (see ill, at leffl.

To re-engage the sewing mechanism after bobbin winding, turn the stop motion knob away from you. The sewing mechanism is re-engaged automatically on starting the machine,

Pass the thread from the spool to the bobbin, as shown in the above illustration, Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin a few times. Push lever E against the bobbin, hold the balance wheel, and turn the stop motion knob of Pfaft machines 1213 and 1214 (8a on page 2> toward you. Start the bobbin winder by pressing down on the foot control.

On the Pfaff 1222-E, the sewing mechanism is engaged or disengaged by the Stopmatic control. For details please refer to page 17.

Fig. 1: Insert the filled bobbin into the bobbin case, making sure the thread end drops from the top down towards you.

insert the bobbin into the bobbin se.

Fig. 2: Pull the thread into the slot

and under the spring. As you draw Fig. 3: the thread, the bobbin should rotate clock wise (as indicated by an arrow). Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case. .

• and to replace the bobbin case in the machine

Lift latch K and push the bobbin case onto center stud S, making sure its slot (see arrow) points upwards. Release the latch and press against the bobbin case until you hear it snap into place.

ow “slot-thread” your machine

ull the thread from the spool into the slot n the top cover of your machine. By this notion, the thread is drawn into the upper ension which is enclosed in the top cover. ulf the thread to the right and down as ndicated by an arrow in the illustration below. [hen continue threading as shown in the Ilustration at right. [he built-in Pfaff needle threader will then thread the needle for you quickly and easily.

Threading the need’e with the automatic Pfaff need’e threader

Make sure the needle is at its highest point, i. e. on the Pfaff 1222—E the presser bar lifter at the back of the machine should be in its upper position (position A on page 17).

On Pfaff machines 1213 and 1214, turn the balance wheel until the needle is at its highest point and the take-up lever is in the position shown in the illustration. Push the needle threader control down with your left hand and at the same time place the needle thread under the hook of the needle threader (Fig. 1).

Now push the needle threader control down completely and draw the needle thread under the threader prong (Fig. 2). Release the needle threader control slightly until the prong reverses and pulls the thread through the needle eye (Fig. 3). Fully release the control, take hold of the thread loop and pull the thread through the needle eye completely. On Pfaff machines 1213 and 1214, turn the balance wheel to bring the take-up lever to its highest point (Fig page 10) On the Pfaff 1222—E, return the presser bar lifter to its normal (horizontal) position (B on page 17). 3

eW4M The Ultra-Matic stitch selector

Note The needle must never be in the mate rial when you turn the Liltra-Matic stitch selector.

The Ultra-Matic stitch selector sets your ma chine for straight and zigzag stitching. The different stitch ranges are marked by numbers. For instance, the range from 0 to 4 comprises straight stitches of different lengths. Turn the outer ring of the stitch selector until the symbol of the stitch desired is opposite the white mark. In the illustration on the left, the stitch selector is set for sewing straight stitches about 2 mm long (about 12 stitches per inch). Start by making a sewing test. Press the foot control pedal, and watch your machine sew a straight-stitch seam. Then let your Pfaff run at different speeds. The harder you press the foot control pedal, the faster your machine will run.

Zigzag stitches dense medium

Now try a zigzag stitch. Zigzag stitches are shown on the Ultra-Matic stitch selector in the stitch ranges marked 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9. The zigzag stitch desired is dialed just as easily as a straight stitch The setting of the stitch selector is indicated for every sewing operation discussed. This simplifies the operation of your machine. In the illustration on this page the stitch selector is shown set for a medium zigzag stitch in stitch range 8.

Darning with your Pfaff is discussed on page 26.

When this control is turned to position 0 (Fig. 4), the darning symbol is visible, and the machine teed is disengaged

or backtack a seam, press reverse-feed control 19 on the front of your machine down, moving it from A to B. When this control is released, it returns to position A automati cally (Fig. 2). If you wish to sew a longer seam in reverse, flick the reverse-feed control to position C (vertical), as shown in Fig. 3.

3. Position C (illustrated below) means that the sewing foot is lowered. When you push the presser bar lifter to position D, the Stop matic mechanism is engaged (as in position A). This position is used when the bobbin thread is to be drawn up, in case of seam interruptions, when the bobbin becomes empty, or when the bobbin thread breaks. Hold the presser bar lifter in its lowest posi tion until the needle has stopped at its high est point. When this lever is released, it re

turns automatically to position C When you’ve finished sewing on your Pfaff 1222E. flick the presser bar lifter to its highest posi tion. Since this lever has been mentioned repeatedly so far, we’re now going to tell you how it works when set at its various posi tions:

1. Position A (illustrated below) is used for threading the needle and removing the fabric. In this position, the sewing foot is raised and the sewing mechanism disengaged for bobbin winding The needle is raised automatically to its highest point.

2 Position B (illustrated above) is used when you need to turn the fabric. The sewing foot is raised, but the needle remains in the fabric and serves as a pivot point for turning the material.

With the models 1213/1214 the presser bar lifter can only be pushed to positions B and C.

wo pieces of fabric wiH match erfectly, no matter how long the seam iay be.

This foot is used for sewing long seams and for perfectly matching plaids, striped and patterned fabrics. The dual feed is also used for sewing over thick cross seams.

our Ptaff is the only home sewing machine the world featuring a dual feed.

To engage the dual feed, simply push it

down in the slot of the raised sewing foot until it snaps into place (see arrow in illustra tion at bottom left).

To disengage this foot, push it down slightly,

then pull it up out of the slot in the sewing foot.

Other feet which can be used with the dual feed include the hemmer foot, blindstitch foot and felling foot.

No matter how carefully you match the squares or other patterns, the result will be similar to that shown in the top illustration (below) when you sew without the dual feed,

Whenyoujointwopiecesofcheckedmaterial with the aid of the dual feed the squares or stripes will match exactly. (See ill, at bottom of pagel

Even the thickest cross seams are no obstade for the dectronic Control of the Pfaff 1222-E.

The electronic control which operates’ behind the scenes” comes to your assistance whenever you have to sew over thick seams or several layers of fabric. Just relieve the and the pressure on the foot control electronic control instantly reduces the speed of your machine to slow stitchbystitch sewing for stitching through the thickest spots in the material. .

Dhangng the neede or sewing foot s easy.

Various sewing operations require different size needles or special needles. A detailed Needle and Thread Chart is shown on page 63. To change the needle, lower the presser bar lifter and flick it to position D (see page 15). This causes the Stopmatic mechanism to bring the needle to the correct position for

Changing the sewing foot is just as simple. The accessory box of your machine contains several special sewing feet (hemmer foot, buttonhole foot, etc.) which are used for various sewing operations. Which sewing foot to use for a specific sewing job is discussed on page 23 and the following pages.

To change the sewing foot, push the presser bar lifter to its highest position. Loosen screw B until the sewing foot can be removed. tilt ing it sideways or backwards. The new sewing foot is attached in the reverse order. Tighten screw B again before starting to sew.

Loosen screw N (see ill, below) and pull the old needle out of the needle holder. Insert a new needle and push it up as far as it will go, making sure the flat side of its shank faces toward the back. Now tighten the needle screw.

Use System 130-705-H needles only.

Perfect seams through properly balanced tensions

V Both ten&ons btanced

The thread tensions are set at our factory, using the most popular threads.

Even so, your seam may not look as the one shown in Fig. 1. In this case, check to see whether the upper or lower tension needs adjusting. Then regulate the tensions as fol lows;

The upper tension is located under the top cover of your machine’, as was already explained on page 10. ‘The tension dial is provided with numbers 0 to 10. The higher the number, the tighter the tension. The nor mal tension setting is between 3 and 5.

The lower tension is regulated by turning the small knurled screw on the bobbin case. Turn this screw to the right (with your thumb rather than your finger nail) for a tighter tension, or to the left for a looser tension. Right (R) and left (L) are indicated by arrows. If you can pull the thread from the bobbin easily against little resistance, the bobbin thread tension is just right. Always use the same size thread on the bobbin and in the needle.

Straightstitch and zigzag sewing work

your detachab’e workplate increases ... ace surf vorking

supplied Pfaffmachines 1214 and 1222-E are n in the show as , plate work e habl with a detac is simply plate work This w. belo n tratio illus two guide pushed over the free arm until its s in the hole te opria appr the pins enter machine.

I Pfaff To increase the sewing area of your sion 1213 Portable, attach the bedplate exten illustrated below.

Now see for yourself what your Pfaff can do. lake advantage of the many possibilities this machine offers you in straight and zigzag stitching.

FeHing Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straight stitch Stitch length: 1.5—2 Engage dual feed if material requires it. Attach felling toot No. 93-040 938-31 (can be obtained from your Pfaff dealer)

Felled seams are used to join two pieces of fabric. They are often used on bed linen or childrens wear and are made in two opera tions: First seam: Lay the two pieces of fabric to gether with their right sides facing and the bottom piece protruding about 4 mm (‘). Make sure the fabric enters the felling foot evenly. The bottom fabric should be folded over the edge of the top piece, but the top edge must not be folded. Open the two pieces. Second seam: Insert the seam ridge into the felling foot. Stitch it down to the left, starting at the same end as the first seam. Lightly pull the fabric sideways to keep it taut while sewing.

ct it When you hem a fabric edge, you prote uce prod time against fraying and at the same finish. edge ble a neat, dura twice, Fold the beginning of the fabric edge and making a hem about 3 mm (“) wide r unde al materi the e several inches long. Plac the h Stitc , same lower and foot the hemmer hes. folded edge down with 3 or 4 straight stitc by pull Draw the fabric into the hemmer foot in the n show as s, ward ing both threads back edge fabric the Feed top. the at tion illustra right into the hemmer foot scroll with your ). bottom the hand (see ill, at ays Make sure the fabric does not slip sidew scroll The foot. the of half right the r unde the should be well filled with fabric so that the of side right the with line in is fabric edge left toe. als, To produce an elastic hem on soft materi tor selec h stitc the Turn use zigzag stitches. and e 6 in rang h length stitc um to the maxim proceed, as instructed above.

Zipper insertion Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straight stitch Stitch lengt: 15—2 Attach zipper foot No. 93-040 927-31. With or without Dual feed

Baste the closed zipper on the fabric, then open it. Stitch close to the left edge of the zipper for about 5 cm (2”), guiding the right edge of the foot along the zipper teeth (Fig. 1). Leave the needle in the material, raise the zipper foot and close the zipper. Then lower the zipper foot again (Fig. 2). Continue stitching until you reach the end of the zipper, then stitch across this end and up the other side close to the right edge of the zipper (Fig. 3). Stop about 5 cm (2”) short of the end of the seam, raise the zipper foot and open the zipper. Continue sewing to the end of the zipper. The finished zipper closure is shown in Fig. 4.

Darning Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straight stitch Stitch length: 1—4 Attach darning foot No. 93-040 960-91.

To For darning, the machine feed is dropped. its to l contro do this, swing the reverse-feed g darnin the that so n positio left horizontal The symbol is visible on its upper side. darn darning foot moves up and down while built-in a by lled contro is motion ing. This vibrator. When the needle enters the fabric, the darning foot presses it against the needle g plate, and when the needle rises, the darnin move foot rises too, so that you can freely the material under the needle by hand. When darning a hole, you determine the stitch the length. It depends on how fast you move you material under the needle and how far depress the foot control pedal.

Hold the material flat with both hands. Stitch back and forth across the hole lengthwise, with the machine running at high speed. Be sure the stitches are closely spaced. Then turn the fabric at right angles and sew back and forth over the preceding work with short stitches. This anchors the threads in the un worn area around the hole.

After you have finished darning, swing the reverse-feed control back to its regular sew ing position.

Tubular articles, such as sleeves, trouser legs and stockings, can be easily darned on the free arm of the Pfaff 1222. Stitch back and forth across the hole, first crosswise, then lengthwise. Triangular tears and rips are best darned with close stitches across and lengthwise. 27

hirring wfth fiUer thread Itra-Matic stitch selector: idest zigzag stitch in itch range 5 or 6. ttach cording foot 0. 93-040 91 5-35.

To produce a durable shirring effect, a filler thread is needed. As with single-needle cording, the thread best suited for this pur pose is a cotton thread. Place the filler thread under the groove of the cording foot and sew on the wrong side of the fabric. When you have finished the zigzag seam, slide the material along the filler thread to distribute its fullness evenly. inserting a filler thread in the shirring makes it more durable.

peonpoid St 14S!U!4 abp S IcSM siq u: e6pe s4! JSAO ieqo 0144 pus opqeJ 0144 04U! 1404145 0uO SONS4 OIPOSU 0144 0 pq e 6uOs MOS nbA sy ‘0 P BinS 9)j SW 6 6-O6 OIO-6 ON oo uMes Aulpo qo4p’ :s8iq q4 uO mo Si ! PJ IEflP O6U3 9 6ui qos UI jqwnu JO J9I fl 04 Aje4eipoUiwi :J0400105 qo4I3s Oi4A1eJ4Ifl se6pe 6useawaO

plate Twin needle, cording foot and cording r. deale Pfaff your from can be obtained

Cording Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straight stitch Stitch length: 2 Central needle position Insert twin needle. Attach cording foot with grooves.

on Cording is very popular as a trimming etc. ses, linen goods, dresses, blou ds, a Cording is made with two needle threa d bobbin thread and a filler cord. When threa one draw to e sure ing the needles, mak in thread above and the other below the disc the slot of the face cover (see Fig. 1). pro The filler thread makes the cording more d, threa ial spec a r prefe you ss Unle minent ose. pearl thread can be used for this purp

a parent materials, take a filler thread in r. colo matching les Select the distance between the twin need type the suit to cord filler and the size of the of material used. Hold the filler cord as shown in Fig. 2. filler On the Pfaff 1213 Portable, pull the the thread through the slot at the bottom of r cove bed the ving machine base after remo (Fig. 3).

a wool Cording on woollens is best made with trans to ing cord y appl to want thread. If you

To make different size cording, the tollowng twin needles and cording feet can be ob tained from any Pfaff dealer: Three-row cording foot No. 93-040 948-31 which is used with twin needles set from 2.4 7/) apart. to 2.8 mm (approx, / to Five-row cording foot No. 93-040 950-31 which is used with twin needles set from 3/) apart. 1.8 to 2.4 mm (approx. /, to Seven-row cording foot No. 93-040 952-31 which is used with twin needles set from 1.2 to ‘16”) apart. to 1.8 mm (approx. 33

hiserting ace Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straight stitch (initially) Stitch length: 1 Attach ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 910-91.

Place the lace on the right side of the ma terial and sew it down with straight stitches on both sides (1).

Cut the fabric open under the lace insertion (2), fold the fabric edges back and iron (3).

Now turn the stitch selector to a mediumwide zigzag stitch in stitch range 6 and sew over the edges of the lace on the right side.

Trim the excess material away close to the seams on the wrong side (4). 34

I sswd uq eAoq pooru4sui s MOS

Ultra—Matic stitch selector: straight stitch (initially) Stitch length: 1 Attach cording foot No. 93-040 91 5-35.

Regardless whether you create your own designs or use motifs that are ready-made.. appliquéing adds a beautiful fashion trim to articles, such as wall hangings and table cloths, napkins and aprons, children’s dress es and beachwear, cushions and many other things. Trace the design on the wrong side of the fabric. 1. Turn the stitch selector to the largest zigzag stitch in stitch range 9, place the appliqué on the right side of the material so that the design traced on its wrong side is covered completely. Then stitch it down. 2. Turn the stitch selector to a not-too-dense zigzag stitch in stitch range 5 and sew over the edges of the appliqué on the wrong side. 3. Undo the first zigzag seam (Fig. 1) and trim the excess material close to the seam on the right side (Fig. 3). 4. Turn the stitch selector to a dense zigzag stitch in stitch range 6 and sew over the raw edges of the appliqué again, To give the design a raised effect, satin-stitch over a filler cord.

Where does the needle enter the needle hole: in the middle, at the right or left? For most sewing operations, the needle enters the needle hole in the middle. This is achieved by turning knob D in the stitch selector to the position shown in Fig. 1. In this position, the buttonhole symbol is located on the left. For other sewing jobs, e. g. sewing on buttons and sewing various functional-stitch seams, however, the position of the needle in the needle hole must be changed so that it enters the needle hole on the right or left. This is done by turning knob 0 until it snaps into position. If the needle position has to be changed for a certain sewing job, this is indicated in the instructions.

Right needie position: the needle enters the needle hole on the right. 38

Button sewing Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straight stitch Drop the machine feed (see pp. 16 and 26). Right needle position (see p. 38). Attach clear-view sewing foot No. 93-040 920-91

Place the material and the button under the sewing foot and align them so that the needle will enter tfte right hole in the button. Check the correct position of the button by letting the needle stitch through the hole. Sew one or two tying stitches, then raise the needle again. Turn the stitch selector to the stitch width in stitch range 9 which corresponds exactly to . the distance between the holes in the button This selector is set correctly if the needle enters the left hole exactly as it descends for its left stitch. Sew as many zigzag stitches as you deem necessary to fasten the button securely. Turn the stitch selector to straight stitching and the sew a few tying stitches. Then trim threads. When sewing on four-hole buttons, repeat the above process.

ewhig buttonhoes Mtach buttonhole too \Io. 93—040 924—91. Use No. 50 nachine embroidery thread as -ieedle and bobbin thread Oneck to make sure that all jecorative and functional-stitch outtons are out (see page 13). Mark the buttonhole on the fabric.

We recommend sewing a buttonhole to try out the stitch density which should be selec ted in accordance with the fabric and the thread being used. When you turn the stitch selector toward ±, the stitches are spaced further apart; when you turn it toward they are packed together more closely (see ill above, center). Place the fabric under the buttonhole foot, pull the filler cord over the lug at the back of the foot, and place both strands under the two grooves in its sole (see ill, above, right>. —

Lower the foot. Now you can sew the buttonhole in one con tinuous operation, as follows 1. Begin by sewing the right seam according to the buttonhole length marked.

To set the machine for programmed button hole sewing, make sure you turn knob D clockwise only. Even when buttonhole sewing is interrupted, knob D must be turned clockwise only. Turn knob D clockwise until its buttonhole symbol is positioned below the setting mark. Now turn the outer ring of the stitch selector so that its buttonhole symbol is above the setting mark. The machine is thus set for a medium stitch density (see ill. above, center).

2. Push buttonhole control T down (see ill. above, left) until the machine has made a few zigzag stitches for the first bar. Then release control T again. 3. The machine is thus set for sewing the left seam. Now sew this seam, making it as long as the first seam. 4. Then press buttonhole control T down again to sew the second bartack. 5, Release control T. Knob D now turns until it is positioned vertically. During this phase, the machine makes a few tying stitches. Pull the filler cord into the buttonhole seam completely and trim both ends. 6. Cut the buttonhole open with your seam ripper.

For sewing the next buttonhole, turn knob D clockwise until it snaps into place again with its buttonhole symbol positioned under the setting mark. Repeat this for each subsequent buttonhole. After you have sewn all buttonhoies, turn knob D clockwise until the symbol for the central needie position is positioned under the white mark (normal position)

Move the hoop slowly and evenly, and follow the traced outlines as if you were writing.

Monogram embroêdery Ultra-Matic stitch selector: zigzag stitch (depending on size of monogram desired). Drop the machine feed. Attach darning foot No. 93-040 960-91.

If you want to give your monogram dimen sional quality, embroider the outlines twice, packing the stitches closely together. Straight-lined monograms can be embroider ed with the cording or clear-view sewing foot. Once you have acquired a little practice, you will be able to embroider monograms in fabrics that are not too flimsy without using a darning hoop.

Trace the monogram first on a piece of paper and then on the fabric. Place the material in a darning hoop and lower the presser bar lifter and draw up the bobbin thread.

Quilting Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straigh stitch (2> or small zigzag stitch. Attach zipper foot No. 93-040 927-31 and apply the quilting gauge to the foot. Set the gauge for the desired spacing between seams. To attach the quilting gauge place the spring on the shank of the zipper foot so that both holes are in line. Compress it until the gauge can be easily pushed through the holes. This quilting gauge can be attached to all feet which have a hole in their shank,

Mark the first seam on the fabric or guide the quilting gauge finger along the raw edge of the material. Having completed the first seam, move the material under the zipper foot so that the gauge finger now runs along the seam previously sewn (or marked>. For any sub sequent seam, guide the gauge finger along the preceding line of stitches.

Edge stitching Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straight stitch Stitch length: 2 Attach zipper foot No. 93-040 927-31 or ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 910-91.

Guide the edge of the material along the line marking the desired stitching margin on the needle plate.

Darning with wool thread Ultra-Matic stitch selector: zigzag stitch in stitch range 6 or 7. Drop the machine feed. Attach darning foot No. 93-040 960-91.

Knitted garments and articles made of terry cloth are best darned with wool thread since spots darned with this thread are not as stiff

as those darned with thin embroidery and darning thread. Draw the wool thread through the needle hole of the darning foot and into the slot of this foot. The wool thread must be placed under the darning foot (ill, right). Run the machine and place the wool thread back and forth across the hole, packing the individual strands closely together. Stitch it down on the right and left of the defective area. Once the hole is covered with the wool thread, trim it. Then sew back and forth over the darned area lengthwise, using a thin darning thread. Do not space the various lines of stitching too closely since this would make the darn too hard.

Eyelet embroidery For eyelet embroidery you need cover plate No. 93-040 946-45 which is inserted in the feed slot (see adjoining drawing). This cover plate can be obtained from your Pfaff dealer.

Drop the machine feed. Remove the sewing foot. Lower the presser bar lifter and draw up the bobbin thread.

Mark the position of the eyelets on the fabric with dots. Place the fabric in a darning hoop and make a crosswise cut at each dot, using your seam ripper or a pointed embroidery scissors. Push the stud of the cover plate through one of the little holes in the fabric and turn the stitch selector to a narrow zigzag stitch in stitch range 5 or 6. Now sew around the hole, turning the hoop by hand at a uniform rate. This is very im portant to obtain beautiful eyelets. Sew around every hole twice.

The built-in utility-stitch mechanism makes functional sewing simple The built-in utility-stitch mechanism makes it possible to sew functional seams on all kinds of materials, no matter whether they are elastic (e.g. tricot, jersey, Helanca and stretch fabrics) or not. Simply set the machine for the utility-stitch desired by pushing a button.

To set your machine for functional stitching, open the lid in the top cover. The different utility-stitch symbols appear on the left row of buttons.

X>,X,XyX Cross stItch

to set your machine for the desired stitch. Each button shows the symbol of the respec tive utility-stitch, and indicates the stitch length recommended as well as the needle position which is to be set by turning knob 0. The illustration on the opposite page shows you how to set your machine. To sew an elastic seam, push the button identified by the elastic-stitch symbol, Turn knob D until the needle position symbol indi cated on the button is opposite the mark on the dial.

Special elastic seam on knitted and crot cheted fabrics which secures the fabric edge stitches.

Eastc tripe straIght StItCh

For seams that are pressed open later or are exposed to great stress (e.g. ski pants), and for utility-stitch combinations.

Bhnd stItch For darning rips and worn areas, sewing on elastic, sewing terry cloth, inserting patches and for utility-stitch combinations.

Then turn the outer ring of the stitch selector until the number indicating the desired stitch length (between 0 and 2) is opposite the mark. Now your machine is ready for sewing an elastic seam. Before you switch over to another utilitystitch pattern by pressing another button, push button K. This button must also be pushed to disengage the utility-stitch mechanism.

Mending hems and darning rips Elastic stitch Stitch length: between 0 and 1 Left needle position Ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 91 0-91 Engage dual feed

These utiIity stitches make sewing easy for you

Rip open the section of the hem opposite the damaged area, Take a piece of suitable ma terial in the right size, fold it in half and press. Then insert this piece in the hem so that its folded edge is in line with the folded edge of the hem. Sew it down with an elastic seam, so that the individual patterns overlap (see ill.).

To mend a rip, place a piece of suitable material under it and join both plies so that the individual elastic-stitch patterns overlap.

Sewing on eIastc Elastic stitch Stitch length: 1 Left needle position Ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 910-91 Engage dual feed

Lay the elastic on the fabric edge, stretching it with both hands as far as possible (see ill.). Then sew the stretched elastic down with an elastic seam. The more you stretch the elastic, the more the fabric will be gathered.

Stitching terry cloth Elastic stitch Stitch length: between 0 and 1 Left needle position Ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 910-91 Engage dual feed (see pages 18 and 19)

Place both pieces of fabric on top of each other with their edges overlapping about 1 cm (I2”), as shown in Fig. 1. Sew down one edge with an elastic seam, then turn the fabric over, and stitch down the second edge. If the seam is exposed to great stress, lay the two pieces of material one upon the other so

that their edges are in line, and join them with a straight-stitch seam taken 1,5 to 2.0cm (abt. 1/6) from the fabric edge (stitch length 1.5 to 2). Press the seam open. Restore the elastic-seam setting and turn the stitch selector between 0 and 1. Sew both edges down one after the other (2).

Elastic triple straight-stitch seams which are exposed to great stress Elastic triple straight stitch Stitch length: 4 • Central needle position Ordinary sewing foot No, 93-040 910-91 Engage dual feed (see pages 18 and 19)

Elastic triple straight-stitch seams (so-called press-open seams) are used for all elastic materials, especially if the seams in question are exposed to great stress (e.g. on ski pants). In addition, they are preferred for sewing bed ticks and inside leg seams on trousers, Sew the two pieces of material together with the machine set as indicated above, then press the seam open.

Shell edging Blindstitch Stitch length: 1—2 Left needle position Clear-view sewing foot No. 93-040 920-91

Slightly increase the tension for non-elastic fabrics.

Shell edging makes a nice trimming on lingerie and garments made of sheer, soft materials or tricot.

Fold the fabric along the line which is to be trimmed by shell edging. Sew along this folded edge with the needle alternately taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over its edge. As the threads are interlocked out side the fabric, the fabric edge is drawn in ward, thus producing a shell edging effect.

Blindstitching Blind stitch Stitch length: 3—4 Needle position: between left and center Blind-stitch foot No. 93-040 917-91 Engage dual feed

E’astic blind-stitch seams Blind-stitch seam Stitch range 9 Needle position: between left and center Attach blindstitch toot No. 93-040 917-91 Engage dual feed

Fold the hem in the desired width and baste it about 0.5 cm (‘/32’) from the fabric edge (Fig. 1). Turn the hem down so that it protrudes by about 0.5 cm (‘/33”) on the right (Fig. 2). Place the material under the blind-stitch foot so that its folded edge runs along the edge guide mounted on the sewing foot (ill. at left). With the machine set for a wide zigzag stitch, regulate the needle position by turning knob D (page 47) toward the right (from left to central needle position) so that the needle takes the left stitch exactly in the folded edge of the fabric. b blindstitch heavy woollens, fold the hem only once (Fig. 3).

Inserting patches Elastic stitch Stitch length: 0 to 1 Left needle position Ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 910-91

U Cut a patch about 2 cm (1’) larger than the damaged area and place it over the thin spot on the right side of the fabric so that its grain matches the rest of the fabric. Sew the patch down by stitching along its edges, sewing the corners twice. Turn the material over and damaged area by trimming seams. That’s all there is to has been inserted neatly impairing the elasticity of the

cut out the close to the it. The patch and without mended spot.

Reinforcing edges of elastic woven fabrics Cross stitch Stitch length: 4 Left needle position Ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 910-91.

edges and Suited particularly for reinforcing mending underwear.

Overlock stitch Stitch length: 4 Left needle position Ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 91 0-91.

used The overlock seam is a special seam It joins for knitted or crotcheted materials. ously two pieces of fabric and simultane s. edge their hes finis rs and Suited particularly for attaching colla collarettes to T shirts. fabric For this work, place the two pieces of the to d exten they that so ine in the mach left of the needle.

UtiIity stitch cornbinations

When you push two simultaneously, both will be combined. This versatility of your Pfaff

utility-stitch buttons utility-stitch patterns further increases the machine.

Sewing on elastic strands

izi straight stitch 4 length: Stitch Left needle position Elastic or shirring thread Buttonhole foot No. 93-040 924-91 If the elastic borders of knee-length stock ings, socks or night gowns become worn, replace them with elastic strauds. To do this, push the elastic-stitch and elastic triple straight stitch buttons, Place the elastic strands over the prong of the buttonhole foot and place them in its grooves. Hold them taut and stitch down. The more you stretch the elastic strands, the more the material will he shirred.

Joining knitted and jersey fabrics

Elastic triple zigzag stitch

Blind stitch and elastic H f U triple straight stitch a (pullover seam), Ultra-Matic stitch selector: straight stitch Stitch length: 4 Left needle position Attach ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 910-91. Place the two pieces of fabric to be joined one on top of the other with their edges in line. Insert them in the machine so that they extend to the right of the needle (see ill. below). Sew along the fabric edge so that the needle alternately stitches into the fabric and over its edge. In this way, you join both pieces and finish their edges in one operation, as was done with elastic knitted and woven fabrics.

Ultra-Matic stitch selector: ‘ zigzag stitch in stitch range 9 Elastic triple zigzag stitch Ordinary sewing foot No. 93-040 91 0-91 The elastic triple zigzag stitch is ideally suited for foundation garments requiring seams that are both elastic and strong. This stitch can also be used for mending damaged seam sections,

I Reinforcing hems in elastic fabrics (jersey, Lastex, etc.) Blind stitch Ultra-Matic stitch selector: medium zigzag stitch in stitch range 9. Left needle position Attach blindstitch foot No. 93-040 91 7-91. The procedure is the same as with blind stitching non-elastic fabrics (see page 53).

The decorative-stitch mechanism To sew various fancy stitches, you need the decorative-stitch mechanism of your machine, You will see a row of fancy-stitch buttons right next to the row of functional-stitch buttons. The buttons in the right row are marked with the symbols of patterns which can be used for ornamental purposes only. The patterns on the left row of buttons can be used for both functional and decorative purposes. Push the button showing the desired motif. Then turn the stitch selector to the stitch length and needle position indicated on the button next to the fancy-stitch symbol. If you want to sew the first design, for in-

stance, push the first button. Then turn knob D in the stitch selector to the needle position symbol indicated and turn the outer ring between 0 and 1, as indicated on the button. The desired pattern length is regulated by turning wheel E. The minimum pattern length is obtained by turning wheel E to 10, the maximum length by turning it to 18 (see ill.). This is all you have to do to sew the pattern selected. In case sewing is interrupted because the bobbin is empty or the needle thread is broken, you can easily locate the exact be ginning of the pattern with the aid of indi cator wheel S. Simply turn this wheel until the pattern being sewn is opposite the mark on the top cover as shown at right fIf

S E Then resume sewing at the end of the last pattern completed. If part of the next design has been sewn already, simply sew over this portion again. After you have completed ornamental sewing, turn wheel E to the pattern length symbol thus disengaging the decorativestitch mechanism, In addition, push button K (see page 56). With this decorative-stitch mechanism you can make attractive borders by combining several lines of ornamental stitching accord ng to your own imagination. Some of the designs which can be made with your Pfafl are illustrated on the next pages.

Which fancystitch variation do you like best? For ornamental stitching, use clear-view sewing foot No. 93-040 920-91. The two borders shown on this page are made as follows: Always begin with the pattern in the middle. First border: Sew the center strip of the border with over-edge stitches. Then push the button marked Ill1 and sew along the right and left edges of the center strip, turning knob D on the stitch selector to the right and left needle positions respec tively. is again sewn with The outer pattern the needle at its left position. Make sure the scallops match the pattern sewn previously (see ill.). Before you start sewing the second row of scalloping, turn the fabric clockwise. Second border: To sew the center strip, push the button marked ll1I’ Next, combine the blind stitch with the zigzag stitch (turning the stitch selector to a dense zigzag stitch in stitch range 6) and sew along one side of the center strip, turn the material, and stitch along the other side as well. Sew the outer pattern with the built-in hem stitching design. Additional ornamental effects are obtained by using van-colored threads.

Shown on this page is a nice pattern which can be used to enhance an apron. Trace the center line of the pattern and push the button showing the design in the middle. Turn the pattern length wheel to 15 (see page 59) and sew along the traced line. Trace the curved lines on the material with the aid of a cardboard stencil, set the ma chine for a suitable pattern length and foHow the outlines with a medium-wide zigzag stitch.

The four borders in the upper half of this page were made by simply varying the needle position (left, center, right). The two designs below them were made with a functional-stitch seam sewn with two needles. The design at the bottom was made by stitch ing over wool threads with one needle. For further suggestions on how to make attractive borders by combining various stitches, please refer to the inside back cover.

Needle and Thread Chart

E’Jress 1abdcs si/oh as brocade satIn ottOman, taffeta

Suitings and mantlings

Synthetic Cotton Synthetic

Mercerized cotton Synthetic thread

Etastic corsetry fabrics, Ilim corsetry fabrics, storset satin

Your Pfaff needs very little attention All you have to do to keep your machine in good operating condition is to oil the sewing hook and clean the machine feed regularly. This you can easily do yourself. Since your Pfaff sewing machine has been made from the finest quality materials, the only part that has to be oiled occasionally is the sewing hook. Therefore, remove the bobbin case and put a drop of oil into the hook raceway every so often, You need no expert either for cleaning the parts in the machine arm and in the vicinity of the sewing hook. You can do this yourself with the aid of the small soft brush included in the accessory kit. For cleaning the sewing hook, remove the needle, the bobbin case and the sewing foot. Remove the lint that accumulates in the vicinity of the machine feed with a soft brush. To do this, remove the needle plate. The needle plate of the Pfaff 1213 is simply pulled forward and lifted up (see arrow in ill. at top right). The needle plate of Pfaff machines 1214 and 1222E must be unscrewed with the screwdriver included in the accessories. Take care that no lint accumulates between the teeth of the machine feed. Accumulations of packed lint are best removed with a tooth pick or a similar wooden object,

Changing the light bulb of your Pfaff is something you can easily do yourself

front The sewing light illuminates the work in a ng casti out with le need the of and back shadow. ma It is enclosed in the face cover of your le: simp very is bulb light chine. Changing the et, its sock into bulb light t-out burn Push the t the turn it left and pull it out (see ill.). Inser right. it new bulb and turn ine Light bulbs for your Pfaff sewing mach r. deale Pfaff your from ined obta be can

Trouble shooting cover of your machine. When handled properly, your Pfaff will Are both tensions correctly balanced? rarely develop any trouble. They have been set correctly by us Whenever you have completed sewing, and need no adjustment normally. be sure to restore the original setting h Does your machine feed properly? The of your machine, i. e. turn the stitc ng setti , hing stitc ght material must be guided lightly, but selector to strai must not be pulled. it at about 2; turn the needle position l control to its central position; raise the Before you start sewing, again fami tals amen fund the with self machine feed; switch your machine off your iarize n, by pushing the master on-off butto of machine operation until you know is lifter and see that the presser bar them. Check to see whether your set horizontally. sewing machine needs cleaning or es nhol butto sewn oiling. Even if you have just or darned, we recommend that you set Are there pieces of thread wedged your machine for straight stitching between the tension discs? To remove again. them, pull a narrow fabric strip be the k chec r, occu ld tween the tension discs. shou le troub If following: Has the button with the desired func ition cond tional or decorative-stitch symbol been Is the needle still in good you Have erly? prop pushed? Have the needle position and ted and inser d threa and le the stitch length been set accordingly? selected the right need t? Char ad Thre le and Need the from The Pfaff rotary hook will not normally Are you sewing with a good quality jam, even if the machine is handled thread? improperly. If thread should happen to jam in the raceway of the sewing hook, Has the bobbin case been inserted however, put a drop of oil into the properly? raceway and jerk the balance wheel the , hing stitc g For straight and zigza back, then rock it back and forth, with functional and decorative-stitch me out using any force. After a short time, e mak To d, gage chanism must be disen the trouble will disappear by itself. sure it is, push the button on the top 65

People will envy you. ctive, but this carrying case. It is not only attra s your hold part also very useful. The bottom ng sewi all s hold part Pfaff, while the top ins, bobb d, threa of ls spoo as such utensils, scissors and many other items. catches on To remove the cover, depress the turn them and ts pivo their at left and the right s (see ill.). arrow in the direction indicated by catches two e Thes r. cove Now remove the cover over the place you when open be t mus sewing. your Pfaff after you have finished on the r rests cove the when Lock the catches ly. firm base located in The catches of the sewing box are s>. arrow r (see cove the the middle of

Subject to technical alterations