3600, 3610 - Fan HUSQVARNA - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL 3600, 3610 HUSQVARNA

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Only for the British market!

When changing plug wiring should be effected according

should be effected according to the instruction below.

WIRING INSTRUCTIONS

We have prepared this booklet, to let you know how to operate this sewing machine and how to make use of all its sewing possibilities. We are quite sure that you will get many pleasant hours with your new sewing machine and that you will be successful in obtaining many fine results.

HUSQVARNA AB

INDEX

Accessory box, contents	33	Lower thread, threading	10
Blindstitching, general	19	Maintenance hints	31-32
Blindstitch hem	20	Needle, changing	6
Blindstitch, elastic	21	Needle and thread	6
Bobbin case	10	Open arm	5
Bobbin winding	7-8	Packing and unpacking the machine	34
Buttonholes	24-25	Plugging in the machine to the power outlet	4
Buttonholes, reinforced	26-27	Presser foot (regular)	14
Buttonhole knife	28	Putting the machine away	34
Care of the machine	30	Regular presser foot	14
Changing the light bulb	30	Reinforced buttonholes	26-27
Changing the needle	6	Reverse feeding (reverse stitching)	16
Changing the snap-on presser foot	14	Seams, setting of	33
Choice of needle and thread	6	Selecting the stitch	16-27
Cleaning	30	Shuttle (hook)	9
Connecting the foot control	4	Snap-on presser foot, changing	14
Connecting the machine to the power outlet	4	Stitch length dial	15
Contents of accessory box	33	Stitch selector	16
Darning	29	Straight stitching	16
Darning foot	29	Stretch stitching	18
Darning stockings	29	Tensions	12-13
Double-action stitch	23	Thread	6
Elastic blindstitch (blind hem)	21	Thread cutter	11
Extension table	5	Threading lower thread	10
Feed dog, cleaning	30	Threading upper thread	7
Feed dog, lowering	15
Foot control	4	Thread tension	12-13
Free arm	5	Three-step zig-zag	22
Hook (shuttle)	9	Unpacking the machine	34
Insertion of bobbin case	10	Upper thread tension	12
Invisible hem (blindstitch)	20	Upper thread, threading	7
Light and light switch	4	Zig-zag stitching	17
Lowering the feed dog	15	Zig-zag, three-step	22
Lower thread, bringing up	11	Zipper foot	15

1. Top thread guide
2. Thread tension disc
3. Thread take-up lever
4. Thread tension scale
5. Thread tension dial
6. Thread guide with thread take-up spring
7. Front thread guide
8. Presser foot
9. Feed dog
10. Bobbin case
11. Shuttle (hook)

Connecting the foot control

Pull the lead out of the foot control and place the control under the table. Insert the foot control plug into the socket, A, at the back of the machine.

Connection to wall outlet

The machine's voltage is given on a plate, B, at the back of the machine. Ensure that the wall outlet voltage is the same as that of the machine. Then connect the machine to the proper wall outlet.

Lighting

The switch, C, for the light is also at the back of the machine. For changing the light bulb see page 30.

Free arm

Trouser legs and sleeves can be drawn onto the free arm making it easy to sew, to mend or to patch in these parts. The free arm also makes it much easier to attach collars and cuffs stockings on the machine.

Extension table

When you need a larger v
Table.
There are two grooves underneath 41
should be fitted onto corresponding studs on the free end
So an extra support leg which should be lowered.

Needle and thread

Mercerized cotton thread as well as synthetic thread is used for every kind of fabric.

No. 30-50 embroidery or darning thread gives among other

things fine buttonholes and nice top stitching . As the nameimplies , it is of course also used for embroidery and darning

You will find a picture of a needle on the inside of the shuttle

door . The needle system has number 705 H . Use only needles

marked in this way .You will also find a r

You will also find a number of extra needles or various sizes in the accessory box.

With regard to the size of needle, it may be generally said that

No. 80-90 can be used for most fabrics. For a finer thread and for sheer and tightly woven fabrics, a finer needle should be

For sheer and tightly woven fabrics a finer needle should be used. For very heavy and stiff fabrics a coarse needle must be used.

The higher the number, the coarser the needle. The sizes of

thread and needle to be used are shown on the table.

1) Synthetic threads are not generally numbered.

Sewing thread English No.	Coloured sewing thread No.	Silk thread	Synthetic thread	Embroidery thread or Darning thread	Needle No.
60				60	70
50-60	26	100/3	1)	40-50	80
40-50	26	100/3	1)	30-50	90
40				20	100
30					110
30					120

Changing the needle

Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the needle which is in the middle of the tube.
is to be changed. When you insert the new needle, turn the flat side away from you and push the needle up into the
That side away from you and push the needle up into the needle socket as far as the stop. Tighten the screw so that the
needle is held firmly.

Threading the upper thread

Raise the presser foot. Turn the handwheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position. Pull out the spool pin, 1, place the spool of thread on the pin. Slide the thread into the thread guide, 2, on the rear of the "upper" arm. Then draw the thread to the front between the tension discs, 3, and down around the thread guide, 4. Now continue the threading by drawing the thread from right-to-left in the slot on the thread take-up lever, 5. Draw the thread behind the black thread guide, 6. Thread the needle, 7, from the front.

Bobbin winding

B. however materially rich, they remain spiritually poor
Pull the spool arm, A, towards you until it stops. Take an empty bobbin from the accessory box. In order to get the best possible result when bobbin winding, use only Husqvarna plastic bobbins, which have three grooves in the hole. Other types of bobbins cannot be used, due to the construction of the bobbin winding device. On one side of the bobbin there is a hole. Turn the bobbin with the hole outwards and slide the bobbin onto the bobbin spindle, B.

Bobbin winding (cont.)

You can wind the bobbin directly from the black thread guide. Draw the thread through the slot and between the tension/guide discs in the top of the bobbin winding arm. It might be desirable to reduce the thread tension a little.
Wind the thread a few times around the bobbin in an anticlockwise direction. Hold the end of the thread while you press down the foot control. Release the thread as soon as winding starts. Stop winding before the bobbin is completely filled, as in fig. 1 below.
If the machine is winding unevenly, see Correct and incorrect bobbin winding.
Remove the bobbin. Cut the thread. Return the arm to the upright position.

Correct and incorrect bobbin winding

Fig. 1 shows a correctly wound bobbin.

If you notice that the bobbin is winding unevenly as in fig. 2, loosen screw A with the aid of the screwdriver, move the screw slightly to the left until the winding becomes even. Tighten the screw.

If the winding looks like fig. 3, check to see if the bobbin is properly pressed in on the spindle. If this is correct, move the screw slightly to the right until the winding becomes even. Tighten the screw.

Removing the bobbin case

Open the shuttle cover. There is a small recess on the free arm to facilitate the opening of the shuttle cover. Grasp the bobbin case with the thumb and index finger so that the latch is depressed and draw out the bobbin case. The bobbin will remain in the case as long as the latch is depressed. When you release the catch, the bobbin will be released.

Threading the lower thread

When the bobbin is wound, place it in its case with the hole upwards. The thread is then running as shown in the fig.

Insertion of the bobbin case

Push the bobbin case onto the spindle of the shuttle (hook) so that the projection of the bobbin case fits in the notch at the top of the shuttle cover. Press on the bobbin case slightly to be sure it is latched onto the spindle of the shuttle. Let the thread hang. Shut the door.

Bringing up the lower thread

Hold the threaded upper thread and turn the handwheel toward you until the needle goes down through the needle plate, and then up again. When the needle is in its highest position, pull the upper thread and you will get a loop of the lower thread which is easy to catch. You shouldn't pull the upper thread too hard as this may damage the needle.

Pull the threads about 6'' (15 cm) towards the rear. If the thread ends are too short, the thread may slide out of the eye of the needle when you begin to sew.

Thread cutter

On the back of the presser bar you will find a notch, the thread cutter, which makes it easy for you to cut off the threads.

Correct and incorrect thread tension

In order to get a strong seam, the thread tension should be balanced so that the threads interlock in the middle of the layers of fabric.

In order to easily understand the importance of correct thread tension, you can try different thread tensions by sewing on a scrap of fabric. Use the same fabric you intend to work with.

Begin by using a too loose tension, i.e. you turn the thread tension dial to 1. Look at the seam and you will find the lower thread lies straight and the upper thread is drawn down into the lower side of the fabric.

When you turn the dial to the right, the opposite occurs. The upper thread lies straight and the lower thread comes up in loops on top of the fabric. The thread tension is correct when the threads interlock in the middle of the layers of fabric.
If you want to sew zig-zag, check the thread tension in the same way as for straight stitching. By using a too loose tension, the result will be as shown in the upper illustration.
A too heavy tension looks like the illustration in the middle.
The lower illustration shows the correct thread tension.

Regular presser foot

The presser foot (41 11 383) which is fitted on the machine at delivery is used for normal straight stitching, zig-zag stitching and other utility stitches. As you can see, it has different notches which can be used as guides when sewing. If you wish to have a seam allowance about 1/4'' (7 mm), let the material run even with the outer edge of the presser foot. (Applies to straight stitching with the needle in the middle position). By moving one step inwards, you will have a seam allowance of about 5/32'' (4 mm). The innermost notch gives a seam allowance of about 5/64'' (2 mm).

Changing the snap-on presser foot

The presser feet which accompany the machine are in the form of loose soles which are held in place on the presser foot "ankle" by a spring. If you wish to change the presser foot, turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is in the highest position. Remove the presser foot by drawing it toward you while pressing slightly downward.

There is a spring at the bottom of the ankle bracket. Slide on the presser foot so that the pin fits into the space between the bracket and the spring. Then press lightly backward and downward and the presser foot will snap into the correct position.

Lowering the feed dog

The feed dog is lowered when carrying out certain darning work. You lower the feed dog by pressing the symbol on the drop feed button. In order to raise the feed dog again, you press the symbol

Zipper foot

The zipper foot (41 12 989) is attached in the same way as the regular presser foot.
The construction of the zipper foot makes it possible to sew on both sides of the zipper without turning the work, by attaching the foot either to the left or to the right of the needle.

Straight stitching

Raise the needle to its highest position.

Set the stitch selector to the straight stitching symbol

The stitch length dial is graduated desired stitch length, normally 2.

In the center of the stitch length dial is a button for reverse sewing. By pressing this button in, the machine will sew in

sewing. By pressing this button in, the machine will sew in reverse, and will resume normal forward sewing as soon as it is released. This is very useful when, for example, backpack-

ing at the end of a seam.

383

Thread tension
Stitch length
Stitch selector

Zig-zag stitching

Raise the needle to its highest position.
Set the stitch selector to the desired zig-zag width 2, 3 or 4.
m. (^ 64,^ 8) or 3 / 32^ . So the 1 + 1
Set the stitch length dial to the desired length of stitch. Choose a suitable combination of stitch length and stitch width
The stitch length can be adjusted while you are sewing.

383

Stretch stitching

Raise the needle to its highest position.

Set the stitch selector to symbol and the stitch length dial to 1.
This stitch has a certain amount of "stretch" and should be used instead of ordinary straight stitch in stretchable fabrics.

Blindstitching, general

You will find the blindstitching presser foot (41 15 331) in the accessory box. Attach it in the same way as the regular presser foot.

As fabrics may differ in thickness, the presser foot can be moved sideways so that guide line B of the presser foot can be adjusted to the thickness of the fabric. The presser foot moves on the presser foot "ankle" by turning the little red wheel A forwards + or backwards -. Turn the wheel towards - when sewing in thin material and towards + when sewing in thick material. Choose a suitable setting.

Fold the fabric as shown in the illustration. Make sure that the fold line of the fabric follows guide line B of the presser foot. Invisible and elastic blindstitching is further described on pages 20 and 21.

Blindstitching

First read page 19.
Raise the needle to its highest position.
Set the stitch selector to symbol ...ʌ...ʌ
Turn the stitch length dial to 2-2.5, which
basic setting.
This setting is an average set
either increase or decrease the stitch length to vary the dis
tance between the catches.
Blindstitching is used for hemming skirts, for example, with-
out the stitches showing on the right side. I
straight stitches and large zig-zag stitches.

Thread tension

Stitch length

Stitch selector

Thread tension Stitch length Stitch selector

Elastic blindstitch

First read page 19.
Raise the needle to its highest position.
The stitch selector is set to symbol _mm_mm
Turn the stitch length dial to 1-1.5 as a recommended basic
setting.
This is an average setting, which means that you can increase
or decrease the stitch length to vary the distance between the
catches. Instead of straight-titted , the characteristic is titted by
Instead of straight stitches, the elastic blindstitch has small basic stitch between the two pieces together.
Zig-Zag stitches between the larger Zig-Zag stitches. It is used for hemming elastic fabrics, particularly those that

Thread tension
Stitch length
Stitch selector

Three-step zig-zag

Raise the needle to its highest position.
Set the stitch selector to symbol
Turn the stitch length dial to 1 as a
setting.
Three-step zig-zag is used for sewing towelling, jersey and
knitwear, for overcasting in elastic, thin or easily frayed
fibrics and for darning and mending.

383

Stitch selector
Stitch length
Thread tension

Double action stitch

Raise the needle to its highest position.
Set the stitch selector to sys
tension dial between 3 and 5
Turn the stitch length dial to 1/2 as a recommended basic
setting.
With the double action stitch you can sew seams together and
overcast simultaneously , a . g . in double knit ( jerson ) , knitted
overcast simultaneously, e.g. in double Kilt (jersey), knitted fabric etc.
It is also used for mending seams in underwear and knitwear .
It gives a certain measure of stretchability. The double action
It gives a certain measure of stretchability. The double action stitch can also be used very effectively for overlapped seams
and patching.

383

Buttonholes

In order to sew buttonholes, you should change over to the buttonhole foot (41 11 650). You will find it in the accessory box and it is attached in the same way as the ordinary presser foot. The buttonhole foot has graduated markings to help you make the buttonholes the same length.
Loosen the upper thread tension by turning the thread tension dial to the buttonhole symbol. The buttonhole will look better, if you use a fine thread. Mark on the fabric where you want to place the buttonhole. Always first test sew a buttonhole and adjust the stitch set
tting.
Put the fabric under the presser foot, remembering that the machine begins to sew in reverse. Raise the needle to its highest position. The buttonhole-sewing is shown step by step on the next page.

650

Set the stitch selector to symbol 1. The machine sews the first column of zig-zag stitches in reverse. When the column is the right length, stop the machine with the needle raised out of the fabric and turn the dial to symbol 2/4.

Now the machine makes the closing bar. Sew three or four stitches. Then stop the machine with the needle raised out of the fabric and turn the dial to symbol 3.

Now sew the other column of zig-zag stitches the same distance as the first one. Stop with the needle in its highest position and turn the dial back to symbol 2/4.

Now the machine makes the final closing bar. Sew three or four stitches. Turn to symbol__and lock the threads with a few stitches while holding back the fabric. Page 28 shows how to cut buttonholes.

Reinforced buttonholes

Garments subject to heavy wear or buttons subject to special strain may sometimes require even stronger buttonholes. Set the stitch selector to symbol 1 and sew the first column in exactly the same way as for an ordinary buttonhole but with slightly longer stitches.

When the column is the right length, stop the machine, with the needle raised, and turn the dial to symbol 3. Sew the second column without making any closing bar. Stop with the needle raised when the columns are the same length.

Then turn the dial to symbol 1 again and sew the first column once more. If you should have difficulty with the feed, increase the stitch length slightly.

Turn the dial to symbol 2/4. Make the closing bar by sewing three or four stitches. Stop with the needle raised out of the fabric.

Turn the dial to symbol 3 and sew the second column once more. Stop with the needle raised out of the fabric.

Turn the dial to symbol 2/4 again and make the second closing bar by sewing three or four stitches. Stop with the needle raised and turn the dial to symbol and lock the threads with a few stitches, while holding back the fabric. The next page shows how to cut buttonholes.

Buttonhole knife

The buttonhole knife (40 15 399), which you will find in the accessory box, is equipped with a safety cap which, when taken off, can be pushed onto the back of the knife, providing a good handle.

Darning foot

Raise the needle to the highest position. Press arms A and C together between thumb and index finger, place them behind the needle clamp, B, and attach the darning foot, 41 15 275, in the same way as the other presser feet, by pressing the pin between the spring and the presser foot "ankle". The action of the darning foot is accomplished by the needle clamp. Make sure that hook C rests against support D.

Lower presser foot lifter E.
The feed dog is lowered by pressing symbol drop feed button.

Darning

Use darning thread No. 40-50 and set the machine to straight stitching, with the thread tension dial between 3 and 5. Stretch the work in a hoop and place it under the darning foot so that the fabric rests against the table. Lower the presser foot and bring up the lower thread. Fasten the threads with a few stitches on the edge of the fabric and begin by sewing back and forth over the hole with long stitches. Since the feed dog is disengaged, you guide the hoop back and forth yourself and thus determine the stitch length. The faster you move the hoop, the longer the stitches will be. Keep the machine speed uniform.

Then turn the work 90^ and darn across the hole with short stitches which are obtained by moving the hoop slowly back and forth. If the hole is large, cover it with gauze and then darn as described above. (Darning can also be done on the bias of the fabric or in circles if this would be better suited to the structure of the fabric.)

Darning socks

Set the machine to zig-zag, stitch length 3. Lower the feed dog and set the thread tension between 3 and 5. Thread the machine with darning cotton and draw the thread through the needle hole of the presser foot. Pull the sock over the free arm and place the hole under the darning foot. Lower the darning foot and bring up the lower thread. Place a strand of light yarn in the groove of the darning foot and fasten it with a few stitches on the edge of the hole.

Stretch the socks with your fingers and sew the woolen yarn across the hole at slow speed, guiding the work from side to side. Cut off the yarn when the hole is filled and darn back and forth with zig-zag across the yarn.

The darn becomes stiff when sewing too close.

Care of the machine

In order to serve you satisfactorily, your new sewing machine requires cleaning. The throat plate (needle plate) should occasionally be removed and the teeth of the feed dog brushed clean with the cleaning brush (40 15 555) which is in the box of accessories. Whenever necessary, the bobbin case and shuttle (hook) should also be brushed clean. Sizing or finishing compounds from the fabric can adhere to the spindle of the shuttle and affect the machine's performance. In such a case the spindle should be cleaned with the cleaning brush. Also check that any thread remainders, wound around the spindle, are removed.

Belts

Belt adjustment not required.

Changing the light bulb

The light bulb is placed in the upper arm as shown in the illustration. Push the bulb upwards, turn it 1/4 of a turn to the left and take it out.

When inserting a new bulb, put it into the socket, press it upwards and turn it 1/4 of a turn to the right. The correct wattage of the bulb is shown on the plate at the back of the machine.

Maintenance hints

In most cases poor sewing results are due to a blunt or damaged needle. Therefore always examine the needle first before taking any other action.

Unattractive stitches - unattractive seam
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 6.
2. The needle is bent or blunt. Change the needle.
3. The thread tension is not correct. See page 12.
4. The machine is incorrectly threaded. See pages 7-8.
5. The needle, thread and fabric do not correspond. See table, page 6.
6. The lower thread is not the same thickness as the upper thread.
7. The lower thread is unevenly wound. See page 8-9.
8. The bobbin is incorrectly inserted in the bobbin case. See page 10.
9. Lint or thread is wrapped around the spindle of the shuttle. See page 30.

Needle breaks

1. Needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 6.

You may have helped the machine to feed through the fabric by pulling it. The needle can then easily come

against the throat plate and be broken.

The needle is not the right size. Use Husqvarna 705 H needles.

Lower thread not brought up by the upper thread The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 6.	The seam is too loose. Fabric layers not held together The thread tension is too slack. See page 12.
Uneven thread tension This may be due to poor thread quality.
Irregular bobbin winding 1. The bobbin is not pressed in far enough. See page 10. 2. The machine is not correctly threaded for bobbin winding. See page 8. 3. The thread guide for bobbin winding is not correctly adjusted. See page 9.	Machine does not feed the fabric 1. The stitch length dial is set on 0. 2. The feed dog is lowered. Raise it by pressing the symbol on the drop feed button. See page 15.
Fabric puckers 1. The upper thread is too tightly tensioned. See page 12. 2. The upper and lower thread tension is too tight in relation to the thickness of the fabric. See page 12. 3. The needle is damaged. Change the needle.	Machine runs sluggishly 1. Dirt or lint has got under the throat plate. Loosen the throat plate and brush clean between the teeth of the feed dog. See page 30. 2. Dirt or lint has got into the shuttle. Take out the bobbin and bobbin case and brush clean with special brush. See page 30. 3. The wall outlet voltage is too low.
Stitch length varies The feed dog is choked by dust and dirt. Clean it with the special brush or small screwdriver. See page 30.

Concents of accessory box

40 15 555 Cleaning brush

41 11 650

Buttonhole foot.

41 11 383

Regular presser

foot mounted on the machi

41 15 275 Darning foot
41 15 275

41 12 989
Zipper foot

41 10 714

Bobbings, 8

40 15 399 Buttonhole knife (seam ripper)
41 12 697 Screwdriver

Putting the machine away

Pull the leads out of the wall outlet and the machine. Wind the leads around your hand and put them inside the foot control. Put the extension table and the operating manual into the accessory box, B. Slide the accessory box on the machine. Put the foot control, A, between the free arm and the upper arm. Put on the cover.

Unpacking the machine

Place the cover in front of you so that the little mark faces you. Pull the locking lips as shown in the illustration.
Lift off the cover and put it aside. Remove the foot control A. Slide the accessory box B with the extension table to the left.
For further details, see page 3.

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