820 (1997) - Car Rover - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL 820 (1997) Rover

Haynes THE BOOK

Rover 820, 825 & 827 Service and Repair Manual

J. S. Mead

(1380-304-11AA3)

Models covered

Rover 820, 825, 827 and Sterling models with 4-cylinder and V6 petrol engines, including special/limited editions

1994 cc, 2494 cc & 2675 cc

Does not cover 8-valve carburettor (petrol) engine or Diesel-engined models

© Haynes Publishing 1997

ABCDE

FGHIJ KUMNO

KEMINO POBST

123

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 273 8

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Box 1504, 751 45 Uppsala, Sweden

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER

Introduction Page 0·4

Safety First! Page 0·5

General dimensions and weights Page 0·6

Roadside Repairs

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Page 0·7

Jump starting Page 0·9

Identifying leaks Page 0·10

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system – precaution Page 0·10

Conversion Factors Page 0·11

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing

Routine maintenance Page 1·1

Servicing Specifications Page 1·2

Lubricants, fluids and capacities Page 1·3

Maintenance schedule Page 1·4

Maintenance procedures Page 1·8

Weekly checks Page 1·8

Every 6000 or six months Page 1·11

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months Page 1·13

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years Page 1·23

Every 48 000 miles Page 1·26

Every 60 000 miles or 5 years Page 1·26

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2A•1

V6 engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2B•1

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures Page 2C·1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3·1

Fuel and exhaust systems – Single-point injection engines Page 4A•1

Fuel and exhaust systems – Lucas multi-point injection engines Page 4B·1

Fuel and exhaust systems – MEMS multi-point injection engines Page 4C·1

Fuel and exhaust systems – Honda PGM-Fi injection engines Page 4D·1

Fuel and exhaust systems – Emissions control systems Page 4E•1

Engine electrical systems Page 5·1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6·1

Manual transmission Page 7A·1

Automatic transmission Page 7B·1

Driveshafts Page 8·1

Brakes

Braking system Page 9·1

Suspension and Steering

Suspension and steering systems Page 10·1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11·1

Body electrical systems Page 12·1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12·19

REFERENCE

MOT Test Checks Page REF·1

General Repair Procedures Page REF·5

Tools and Working Facilities Page REF·6

Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Numbers Page REF·9

Fault Finding Page REF·10

Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF·18

Index Page REF·23

Introduction to the Rover 800 Series

Designed in conjunction with the Honda Motor Company of Japan, the Rover 800 series was launched in the UK in July 1986 as a replacement for the ageing Rover SD1. Initially available in four-door Saloon guise, a Fastback version was added to the range in mid-1988. Minor styling revisions were applied to various models in the intervening years, culminating in a major facelift to all models for the 1992 model year. This saw the introduction of the “second generation” Rover 800 series with significant styling and engineering revisions, together with the launch of the Coupe model later in the same year.

Three different engines are used in the Rover models covered by this manual. 820 models are powered by a 2.0 litre, 4-cylinder, sixteen valve engine with single-point or multi-point fuel injection. The early version of this power unit is based on the proven O-series engine used previously in the Montego and earlier Austin Rover vehicles, but with an all new cylinder head and valve train. For the 1992 model year the T-series version was announced which shared many of the O-series components but with significant revisions in many areas. Both these engines are available in normally aspirated or turbocharged versions.

825, 827 and Sterling models are powered by a 2.5 or 2.7 litre V6 twenty four valve engine with programmed fuel injection. Both versions of this engine are virtually identical apart from an increase in cylinder bore diameter to provide the larger capacity of the 2.7 litre unit.

On all models, the engine is mounted transversely at the front of the car and drives the front wheels through a five-speed manual, or four speed automatic transmission.

Suspension is independent at the front by double wishbones and coil springs, and at the rear by transverse links and coil springs. Power-assisted steering is standard on all models.

A comprehensive range of electrical and interior features are offered as standard equipment, including electric front windows, central locking and stereo radio cassette player. Anti-lock braking, air conditioning, headlight wash, electric rear windows, driver and passenger airbags and many other features and accessories are also available as optional or standard equipment according to model.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicles

The main project vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and appearing in many of the photographic sequences was a 1986 Rover 820 Se Saloon. Additional work was carried out and photographed on a 1988 Rover 820 Si Fastback and a 1992 Rover Sterling.

Black-and-white photo of a Haynes sedan parked in front of a residential building (no visible text or symbols on the car body)

Black-and-white photo of a silver sedan parked in front of a historic stone building (no visible text or symbols)

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

- Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

- When working under or near

a raised vehicle, always

supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never

venture

under a car which

is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.
• Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks
  (electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

- Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to

people with heart problems or a

pacemaker. Don't work on or near the ignition system with the engine running of the ignition switched

g under or near e, e PART 1.

Simple line drawing of a cartoon character inside a swirling shape (no text or symbols)

- Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

- Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled.

Never run the

engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

- Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.
  • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

- Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.

When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Remember...

DO

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

Cartoon illustration of a man standing beside a car with a explosion in the air (no text or symbols)

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400^ . The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.
  • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

DON'T

• Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.
• Don't rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.
• Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.
• Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don't allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

Dimensions

Overall length:

Pre-1992 model year 4694.0 mm

1992 model year onwards 4882.0 mm

Overall width - including mirrors:

Pre-1992 model year 1946.0 mm

1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models 1965.0 mm

Coupe models 1900.0 mm

Overall height (unladen):

Pre-1992 model year 1398.0 mm

1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models 1363.0 mm

Coupe models 1400.0 mm

Wheelbase 2760.0 mm

Front track 1490.0 mm

Rear track 1450.0 mm

Ground clearance 145.0 mm

Weights

Kerb weight*:

820 Saloon models 1305 to 1405 kg

820 Fastback models 1335 to 1435 kg

820 Coupe models 1420 kg

825 and Sterling Saloon models 1360 to 1400 kg

827 and Sterling Saloon models 1400 to 1470 kg

827 and Sterling Fastback models 1410 to 1510 kg

827 Coupe models 1450 kg

Maximum roof rack load:

Saloon and Fastback models 70 kg

Coupe models 50 kg

Maximum towing weight:

820 models with manual transmission:

Braked trailer (all models except Turbo) 1550 kg

Braked trailer (Turbo models) 1025 kg

Unbraked trailer 500 kg

820 models with automatic transmission:

Braked trailer 1025 kg

Unbraked trailer 500 kg

825, 827 and Sterling models:

Braked trailer** 1550 kg

Unbraked trailer 500 kg

Maximum towing hitch downward load 70 kg

*Depending on model and specification - refer to Rover dealer for exact recommendations.

**On automatic transmission models, an auxiliary fluid cooler must be fitted if the towing weight is to exceed 1000 kg.

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

Jacking

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit should only be used for changing the roadwheels - see "Wheel changing" later in this Section. When carrying out any other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic (or "trolley") jack, and always supplement the jack with axle stands positioned under the vehicle jacking points (see illustration).

When using a hydraulic jack or axle stands, always position the jack head or axle stand head under one of the relevant jacking points.

To raise the front of the vehicle, position the jack head under the front towing eye which is welded to the longitudinal support member running under the engine. Do not position the jack under the longitudinal member itself, or under the sump or any of the steering or suspension components.

To raise the rear of the vehicle, position the jack head under the rear towing eye which is welded to the reinforcement panel under the spare wheel carrier.

If the side of the vehicle is to be raised, position the jack head under the reinforced areas at the front or rear of the side sills.

The jack supplied with the vehicle also locates in the reinforced areas of the side sills. Ensure that the jack head is correctly engaged before attempting to raise the vehicle.

Never work under, around or near a raised vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at least two places.

H27400

Jacking points and axle stand locations

1 Front towing eye - used for raising the front of the car

2 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or supporting on axle stands

3 Front chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle stands

4 Rear chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle stands

5 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or supporting on axle stands

6 Rear towing eye - used for raising the rear of the car

7 Square tubular chassis sections - Not suitable for jacking or supporting

8 Suspension components - Not suitable for jacking or supporting

1 2 4 H27401 3

Spare wheel and tool locations
1 Tool kit
2 Floor panel
3 Spare wheel clamp
4 Spare wheel

1 2 H27402

Using the vehicle tool kit jack

1 Jack base positioned flat on the ground (deflated tyre)

2 Jack positioned with base elbow on the ground, and base just clear (inflated tyre)

Towing

Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope. The front towing eye is situated under the centre of the front bumper and the rear towing eye is located under the centre of the rear bumper behind a detachable trim plate.

Always turn the ignition key to position II to ensure that the steering is unlocked and that the various switches (indicators and lights) are functional. It should also be noted that the brake servo and power-assisted steering will not be operating with the engine switched off and therefore an allowance will need to be made for reduced braking efficiency and increased steering effort.

Before being towed, release the handbrake and place the gear lever in neutral. Do not tow at a speed greater than 30 mph. On no account may the car be towed with the front wheels on the ground if the transmission is faulty, if the transmission oil or fluid is low or if the towing distance is greater than 30 miles.

Wheel changing

To change a roadwheel, first remove the spare wheel and jack which are located under the luggage compartment floor (see illustration). Firmly apply the handbrake and engage first gear on manual transmission models or PARK on automatic transmission models. Place chocks at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed.

Remove the wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts with the tools provided in the tool kit. Position the jack head in the reinforced jacking point, at the base of the sill nearest to the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack to just take the weight of the car. If the tyre is flat, position the base of the jack so that it is flat on the ground. If the tyre is not flat, position the jack so that the base elbow is resting on the ground and the base is just clear (see illustration). Raise the vehicle until the wheel is just clear of the ground, then remove the wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw on the wheel nuts. Lower the jack until the tyre is just touching the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts moderately tight. Now lower the jack fully and tighten the wheel nuts securely in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim, then remove the jack and stow it together with the wheel and tools in the luggage compartment. Remember to check the tightness of the wheel nuts using a torque wrench at the earliest opportunity.

HAYNES

Hint

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

1 The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.
2 The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).
3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

√ Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
√ Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

Jump starting

√ Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
√ If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
√ Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Close-up of hands connecting cables to a device component (no visible text or symbols)

1 Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Close-up of a hand using a tool to adjust or install electronic components (no visible text or symbols)

2 Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Close-up of a mechanical assembly with tools and components (no visible text or symbols)

3 Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

graph TD
    A["Power Source"] --> B["Cell 1"]
    B --> C["Cell 2"]
    C --> D["+/-"]
    D --> E["Output"]
    style A fill:#f9f,stroke:#333
    style B fill:#ccf,stroke:#333
    style C fill:#cfc,stroke:#333
    style D fill:#fcc,stroke:#333
    style E fill:#ffc,stroke:#333

Close-up of a car engine bay with visible hoses and components (no text or symbols)

4 Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.
5 Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine.
6 Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Identifying leaks

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Close-up of a metallic mechanical component with a central bolt and reflective surface (no visible text or symbols)

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug....or from the base of the oil filter.

Oil from filter

Close-up of mechanical components with no visible text or symbols

Close-up of mechanical components and wiring (no visible text or symbols)

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Close-up of hands using a tool to adjust or install a mechanical component (no visible text or symbols)

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Close-up of a car tire assembly with a worker adjusting the wheel (no visible text or symbols)

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Close-up of industrial piping and valves in a vehicle (no visible text or symbols)

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution

The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard equipment by Rover is equipped with a built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if the power source is immediately reconnected, the radio/cassette unit will not function until the correct security code has been entered. Therefore, if you do not know the correct security code for the radio/cassette unit do not disconnect either of the battery terminals, or remove the radio/cassette unit from the vehicle.

To enter the correct security code, follow the instructions provided with the radio/cassette player handbook.

If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will become locked, and cannot be operated.

If this happens, or if the security code is lost or forgotten, seek the advice of your Rover dealer.

Length (distance)

Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in)

Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft)

Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in ^3 ) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm ^3 ) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in ^3 )

Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)

Imperial quarts (Imp qt)	x 1.137 = Litres (l)	x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)	x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt)	x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt)	x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)	x 4.546 = Litres (l)	x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp ga
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)	x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal)	x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp ga
US gallons (US gal)	x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

Ounces (oz)	x 28.35 = Grams (g)	x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb)	x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)	x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

Force

Ounces-force (ozf; oz)	x 0.278 = Newtons (N)	x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (lbf; lb)	x 4.448 = Newtons (N)	x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb)
Newtons (N)	x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)	x 9.81 = Newtons (N)

Pressure

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )	x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm ^2 ; kg/cm ^2 )	x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )	x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm)	x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )	x 0.069 = Bars	x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )
Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )	x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa)	x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )
Kilopascals (kPa)	x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm ^2 ; kg/cm ^2 )	x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
Millibar (mbar)	x 100 = Pascals (Pa)	x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)	x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )	x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)	x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)	x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)	x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH _2 O)	x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)	x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH _2 O)	x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH _2 O)	x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in ^2 ; lb/in ^2 )	x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH _2 O)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in)	x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre(kgf cm; kg cm)	x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in)	x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm)	x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in)	x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)	x 12 = Pounds-force inches(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)	x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres(kgf m; kg m)	x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)	x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm)	x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm)	x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres(kgf m; kg m)	x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

Power

Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption\*

Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

Temperature

Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C × 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) × 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Contents

Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication 10

Air cleaner element renewal 12

Air conditioning system check 18

Automatic transmission fluid level check 31

Automatic transmission fluid renewal 35

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal 16

Battery check, maintenance and charging 14

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check 28

Brake check 26

Brake fluid renewal 36

Braking system hydraulic fluid seal check and renewal 40

Clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition check 25

Coolant renewal 38

Cooling system check 9

Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication ..... 27

Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check 22

Electrical system check 13

Emissions control equipment check 41

Engine base idle speed and CO content check 19

Engine compartment wiring check 17

Engine oil and filter change 7

Exhaust system check 23

Fluid level checks 3

Fuel filter renewal 34

Introduction 1

Manual transmission oil level check 20

Manual transmission oil renewal 37

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check 33

Power steering fluid level check 5

Road test 30

Roadwheel nut tightness check 29

Routine maintenance 2

Seat belt check 15

Spark plug renewal 11

Steering, suspension and roadwheel check 21

Timing belt condition and tension check 32

Timing belt renewal 39

Tyre and tyre pressure checks 4

Underbody and fuel/brake line check 24

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition 8

Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer system and wiper

blade check 6

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation .... Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Oil filter:

4-cylinder engines .... Champion B101

V6 engines:

paper type .... Champion X119

cannister type .... Champion E102

Cooling system

Coolant protection at 33% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point -19°C (-2°F)

Solidifying point -36°C (-33°F)

Coolant protection at 50% antifreeze/water mixture ratio

Slush point -36°C (-33°F)

Solidifying point -48°C (-54°F)

Fuel system

Air filter element:

“M” series 4-cylinder engines .... Champion W114

“T” series 4-cylinder engines .... Champion type not available

V6 engines .... Champion W601

Fuel filter:

4-cylinder engines .... Champion L208

V6 engines .... Champion L207

1·2 Specifications

Ignition system

Firing order:

4-cylinder engines 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
V6 engines 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)

Spark plugs:

Type: *

4-cylinder normally aspirated engines .... Champion RC9YCC

4-cylinder turbocharged engines up to 1992 model year ..... Champion RC7YCC

4-cylinder turbocharged engines 1992 model year onwards ..... Champion RC9YCC

V6 engines .... Champion RC9YCC4

Electrode gap: *

4-cylinder engines 0.8 mm

V6 engines 1.0 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

Type:

4-cylinder engines .... Champion LS-05 boxed set

V6 engines Champion boxed set not available

Maximum resistance per lead 30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug.

Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer's recommendations

Braking system

Front brake pad thickness (including backing but excluding shims):

New 17.4 mm

Minimum 8.2 mm

Rear brake pad thickness (including backing):

New 14.5 mm

Minimum 7.2 mm

Tyres

Tyre pressures (cold): Front Rear

195/70 VR 14 tyres 1.8 bar (26 psi) 1.8 bar (26 psi)

195/65 VR 15 tyres 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi)

205/55 VR or ZR 16 tyres 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)

205/60 VR 15 tyres 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi)

215/45 ZR 17 tyres 2.3 bar (34 psi) 1.9 bar (28 psi)

115/70 R 15 (space saver spare tyre) 4.1 bar (60 psi) 4.1 bar (60 psi)

Note: For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary.

Consult the driver's handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Wiper blades

Windscreen .... Champion X-5103

Tailgate/rear window .... Champion X-5103

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Power steering pump bolts:

4-cylinder engines - rear-mounted pump 25 18

4-cylinder engines - front-mounted pump:

Early version (4 mounting bolts) 107

Later version (5 mounting bolts) 25 18

V6 engines:

Mounting bolt 39 29

Adjusting nut 22 16

Power steering pump drivebelt tensioner wheel retaining

nut (4-cylinder engines - rear mounted pump) 45 33

Alternator pivot and mounting bolts (4-cylinder engines) 25 18

Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (4-cylinder engines 129

Alternator side pivot bolt (V6 engines) 45 33

Alternator lower mounting nut (V6 engines) 24 17

Engine oil drain plug 45 33

Manual transmission filler/level and drain plugs 45 33

Automatic transmission drain plugs:

4-cylinder engines 15 11

V6 engines 40 30

Spark plugs:

4-cylinder engines up to 1991 18 13

4-cylinder engines from 1991 onward 25 18

V6 engines 18 13

Roadwheel nuts 110 81

① ⑤ ② ⑥ H.12.866 ④ ③

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better, viscosity range 5W/50 to 10W/40
2 Cooling system Soft water, and antifreeze (ethylene glycol-based, suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems)
3 Manual transmission Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better, viscosity 10W/40
4 Automatic transmission Dexron IID type ATF
5 Power steering fluid reservoir Dexron IID type ATF
6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 4
General greasing Multipurpose lithium based grease

Capacities

Engine oil (including filter) 4.5 litres

Cooling system:

4-cylinder engines:
"M" series engines 10.0 litres
"T" series engines 8.0 litres

V6 engines:

2.5 litre engines 10.0 litres

2.7 litre engines 8.6 litres

Manual transmission (drain and refill) 2.3 litres

Automatic transmission (drain and refill):

4-cylinder engines 2.0 litres

V6 engines 3.2 litres

Power steering reservoir 1.5 litres

Fuel tank 68 litres

Rover 800 Series maintenance schedule

The manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule for these vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule starts from the vehicle's date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for vehicles driven daily, but subjected only to "normal" use. If you wish to keep your car in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your car, we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not "normal", shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important examples of these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below-freezing temperatures.

Although the manufacturer's intervals have been extended to one main service at 12 000 mile (12 monthly) intervals for 1994 models onward, the earlier schedule which also includes a lubrication service at 6000 mile (6 monthly) intervals, is the schedule shown in this Chapter.

Weekly checks

Check the engine oil level, and top-up if necessary (Section 3).
☐ Check the brake fluid level, and top-up if necessary (Section 3). If repeated topping-up is required, check the system for leaks or damage at the earliest possible opportunity (Section 24).
☐ Check the windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid level, and top-up if necessary (Section 3).
☐ Check the tyre pressures, including the spare (Section 4).
Visually check the tyres for excessive tread wear, or damage (Section 4).
Check the operation of all (exterior and interior) lights and the horn, wipers and windscreen/tailgate washer system (Sections 6 and 13).
☐ Renew any blown bulbs (Chapter 12), and clean the lenses of all exterior lights.
☐ Check the coolant level, and top-up if necessary (Section 3).
☐ Check the battery electrolyte level, where applicable (Section 3).
☐ Check the power steering fluid level, and top-up if necessary (Section 5).
☐ Check the aim of the windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer jets, correcting them if required (Section 6).
☐ Check the condition of the wiper blades, renewing them if worn or no longer effective (Section 6).
□ Visually check all reservoirs, hoses and pipes for leakage (Section 8).
☐ Check the operation of the air conditioning system (where applicable) (Section 18).

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

Change the engine oil and filter (Section 7).

☐ Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition (Section 8).

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first

☐ Check the cooling system (Section 9).
☐ Check the operation of the accelerator cable and linkage (Section 10).
☐ Renew the spark plugs (models without emission control equipment) (Section 11).
☐ Renew the air cleaner filter element (models without emission control equipment) (Section 12).
Check the electrical system (Section 13).
☐ Check the battery (Section 14).
Check the seat belts (Section 15).
Check the auxiliary drivebelt(s) (Section 16).
☐ Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring (Section 17).
☐ Check the condition of all air conditioning system components (where applicable) (Section 18).
☐ Check the engine idle speed and mixture (where applicable) (Section 19).
Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 20).
☐ Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Section 21).
☐ Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 22).
Check the exhaust system (Section 23).
☐ Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 24).
☐ Check the clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition (Section 25).
Check the brake system (Section 26).
☐ Check the doors and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges and locks (Section 27).
☐ Check the condition of the bodywork and all exterior trim (Section 28).
☐ Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 29). ☐ Road test (Section 30).
☐ Check the level of the automatic transmission fluid after road test (Section 31).

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years, whichever occurs first

Renew the spark plugs (models with emission control equipment) (Section 11).
Renew the air cleaner filter element (models with emission control equipment) (Section 12).
☐ Check the condition and tension of the timing belt (Section 32).
☐ Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (Section 33). ☐ Renew the fuel filter (Section 34).
□ Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 35).
□ Renew the brake fluid (Section 36).
□ Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 37).
□ Renew the coolant (Section 38).

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km)

□ Renew the timing belt (Section 39).

Every 60 000 miles (100 000 km) or 5 years, whichever occurs first

Renew the braking system rubber seals (recommendation only) (Section 40).
☐ Check the operation of the emission control equipment (Section 41).

Engine compartment component locations - 4-cylinder engine models with single-point fuel injection

Labeled mechanical diagram of a car engine showing numbered components and parts like TWIN, ROVER, and valve

1 Vehicle identification plate
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir filler
4 Cooling system expansion tank filler
5 Front shock absorber top mounting
6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir filler
7 Brake master cylinder
8 Vacuum servo unit
9 Fuel filter
10 Power steering pump drivebelt (early models)
11 Distributor cap
12 Ignition coil
13 Brake pressure reducing valve
14 Fuse and relay box
15 Battery negative terminal
16 Battery positive terminal
17 Ignition/fuel ECU
18 Air cleaner assembly
19 Radiator cooling fan
20 Air cleaner intake trunking
21 Engine oil dipstick
22 Alternator
23 Thermostat housing
24 Engine oil filler cap

1·6 Maintenance and servicing

Engine compartment component locations - 4-cylinder engine models with multi-point fuel injection

Technical diagram of a car engine bay with numbered components and directional arrows indicating flow or movement.

1 Vehicle identification plate
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir filler
4 Cooling system expansion tank filler
5 Front shock absorber top mounting
6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir filler
7 Brake master cylinder
8 Vacuum servo unit
9 Fuel filter
10 Ignition system ECU
11 Ignition coil
12 Brake pressure reducing valve
13 Fuse and relay box
14 Battery negative terminal
15 Battery positive terminal
16 Air cleaner assembly
17 Radiator cooling fan
18 Air cleaner intake trunking
19 Engine oil dipstick
20 Airflow meter
21 Throttle housing
22 Plenum chamber
23 Engine oil filler cap
24 Alternator
25 Power steering pump (later models)

Engine compartment component locations - V6 engine models

Labeled diagram of a car engine bay with numbered components for identification

1 Engine oil dipstick
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir filler
4 Cooling system expansion tank filler
5 Alternator
6 Power steering pump
7 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir filler
8 Fuel filter
9 Control box
10 Ignition coil
11 Throttle body
12 ABS modulator
13 Fuse and relay box
14 Battery negative terminal
15 Battery positive terminal
16 Air cleaner assembly
17 Engine oil filler cap

Underside view at front end showing component locations on 4-cylinder engine models

Labeled mechanical assembly diagram with numbered components for identification

1 Engine undertray
2 Front towing eye
3 Longitudinal support member
4 Clutch slave cylinder
5 Reversing light switch
6 Front tie-bar
7 Transmission drain plug
8 Inner constant velocity joint
9 Transmission filler plug
10 Front anti-roll bar
11 Gearchange rod
12 Steady rod
13 Fuel pipes
14 Exhaust section flange joint
15 Power steering gear
16 Steering track rod
17 Front lower suspension arm
18 Brake caliper
19 Oil filter
20 Driveshaft damper
21 Engine oil drain plug

Underside view at rear end

Technical diagram of an automotive engine compartment with numbered parts labeled 1 through 12

1 Exhaust intermediate section
2 Fuel tank
3 Exhaust rear heat shield
4 Handbrake cable
5 Fuel pipes
6 Trailing link
7 Fuel filler neck connection
8 Transverse link
9 Fuel tank retaining straps
10 Rear anti-roll bar
11 Rear silencer
12 Brake caliper

1.8 Maintenance and servicing

Maintenance procedures

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain the Rover 800 Series models for peak performance, economy, safety and long life.

Contained in this Chapter is a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the location of various components.

Servicing your Rover in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide it with a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your car, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together, because of the nature of the particular procedure you're performing, or because of the close proximity to one another of two otherwise-unrelated components.

For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you're under the vehicle. When you're checking the tyres, it makes good sense to check the brakes and wheel bearings, especially if the roadwheels have already been removed.

Finally, let's suppose you have to borrow or hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the torque of as many critical fasteners as time allows.

2 Routine maintenance

The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections which are relevant to the procedures you're planning to carry out, then make a list of, and gather together, all the parts and tools you will need to do the job. If it looks as if you might run into problems during a particular segment of some procedure, seek advice from your local parts man or dealer service department.

Weekly checks

3 Fluid level checks

General

1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubrication, cooling, braking and other systems. Because these fluids gradually become depleted and/or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must be periodically replenished. See "Lubricants, fluids and capacities" at the beginning of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle must be on level ground before fluid levels can be checked.

Engine oil

2 The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick located at the front of the engine in the centre, or on the right-hand side (see illustration). The dipstick extends through a metal tube, from which it protrudes down into the sump at the bottom of the engine.

3 The oil level should be checked before the vehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the level is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the engine upper components, producing an inaccurate reading.

4 Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper towel; note the dipstick's maximum and minimum levels, indicated by holes on the dipstick (see illustration). Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into its metal tube,

and pull it out again. Observe the oil on the end of the dipstick; its level should be between these two holes.

5 Do not allow the level to drop below the minimum level notch, or oil starvation may cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling

Close-up of an automotive engine bay with visible hoses and components (no text or symbols)

3.2 Engine oil dipstick location (arrowed) on V6 engines

Close-up of hands applying a spray bottle to a car engine bay (no visible text or symbols)

cylinder engines ...

the engine (adding oil above the maximum level notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks or oil seal failures.

6 The oil filler cap is screwed into the right-hand front end of the valve cover; unscrew it to add oil (see illustrations). When topping-

Close-up of a thin, elongated metallic object with small holes, possibly a tool or component (no visible text or symbols)

3.4 Note the dipstick's maximum and minimum levels, indicated by holes on the dipstick

Close-up of a car engine bay with visible internal components and wiring (no text or symbols)

3.6b ... and on V6 engines3.6a Topping up tl

up, use only the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the "Lubricants, fluids and capacities" Section of this Chapter; use a funnel if necessary to prevent spills. After adding the oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight. Start the engine, and allow it to idle while the oil is redistributed around the engine - while you are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks, particularly around the oil filter or drain plug. Stop the engine; check the oil level again, after the oil has had enough time to drain from the upper block and cylinder head galleries. 7 Checking the oil level is an important preventive maintenance step. A continually-dropping oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals and from loose connections, or oil consumption past worn piston rings or valve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, or has water droplets in it, the cylinder head gasket may be blown - the engine's compression pressure should be checked immediately (see Chapter 2). The condition of the oil should also be checked. Each time you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be changed.

Coolant

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank filler cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, while it or the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding.

8 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a sealed, pressurised cooling system. A translucent plastic expansion tank, located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, is connected by a hose to the thermostat housing or radiator top hose. As the coolant heats up during engine operation, surplus coolant passes through the connecting hose into the expansion tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is automatically drawn back into the cooling system's main components, to maintain the correct level.

9 While the coolant level must be checked regularly, remember that it will vary with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the level should be up to the pipe outlet on the side of the tank, but once the engine has warmed up, the level may rise to above this level.

10 For an accurate check of the coolant level, the engine must be cold and the level must be up to the pipe outlet. If it is below this level, the coolant must be topped-up as follows.

11 First prepare a sufficient quantity of coolant mixture, using clean, soft water and antifreeze of the recommended type, in the specified mixture ratio. If only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system up to the proper level, plain water can be used, but repeatedly doing this will dilute the antifreeze/water solution in the system, reducing the protection it should provide against freezing and corrosion. To maintain the specified antifreeze/water ratio, it is essential to top-up the coolant level with the correct mixture, as described here. Use only ethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do not use supplementary inhibitors or additives.

Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

12 If topping-up is necessary, wait until the system has cooled completely (or at least 10 minutes after switching off the engine, if lack of time means it is absolutely necessary to top-up while the engine may still be warm). Wrap a thick cloth around the expansion tank filler cap, and unscrew it one full turn. If any hissing is heard as steam escapes, wait until the hissing ceases, indicating that pressure is released, then slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can be removed. If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the filler cap completely. At all times, keep your face, hands and other exposed skin well away from the filler opening.

13 When the filler cap has been removed, add coolant to bring the level up to the outlet pipe level (see illustration). Refit the cap, tightening it securely.

14 With this type of cooling system, the addition of coolant should only be necessary at very infrequent intervals. If topping-up is regularly required, or if the coolant level drops within a short time after replenishment, there may be a leak in the system.

15 Inspect the radiator, hoses, expansion tank filler cap, radiator drain plug and water pump. If no leak is evident, have the filler cap and the entire system pressure-tested by your dealer or garage; this will usually show up a small leak not otherwise visible.

Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid

16 Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir, the filler neck of which is located at the right-hand front corner of the engine compartment. 17 To check the fluid level, release the cap and observe the level in the reservoir by looking down the filler neck. In milder

Close-up of a hand pouring liquid into a battery with visible circuitry and components (no text or symbols)

3.13 Topping up the cooling system

climates, plain water can be used to top-up the reservoir, but the reservoir should be kept no more than two-thirds full, to allow for expansion should the water freeze. In colder climates, the use of a specially-formulated windscreen washer fluid, available at your dealer or any car accessory shop, will help lower the freezing point of the fluid. Do not use regular (engine) antifreeze - it will damage the vehicle's paintwork.

Battery electrolyte

18 On models not equipped with a sealed battery (see Section 9), check the electrolyte level of all six battery cells. The level must be approximately 10 mm above the plates; this may be shown by maximum and minimum level lines marked on the battery's casing. If the level is low, use a coin to release the filler/vent cap, and add distilled water. Install and retighten the cap.

Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of heavy charging, causing corrosion or damage. Refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 9.

Brake fluid

19 The brake fluid reservoir is located on the top of the brake master cylinder, attached to the front of the vacuum servo unit. The "MAX" and "MIN" marks are indicated on the side of the translucent reservoir, and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.

20 The brake fluid inside the reservoir is readily visible. With the vehicle on level ground, the level should be on or just below the "MAX" mark.

21 Progressive wear of the brake pad linings causes the level of the brake fluid to gradually fall; however, when the brake pads are renewed, the original level of the fluid is restored. It is not therefore necessary to top-up the level to compensate for this minimal drop, but the level must never be allowed to fall below the minimum mark.

22 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap - do not invert the cap after removal. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir, to avoid spilling it on surrounding painted surfaces (see illustration).

Person pouring liquid from a bottle into a car engine (no visible text or symbols)

3.22 Topping up the brake master cylinder reservoir

Close-up of a hand using a tool to work on a tire (no visible text or symbols)

4.2 Checking the tyre tread depth with a depth gauge

Be sure to use only the specified hydraulic fluid (see "Lubricants, fluids and capacities" at the start of this Chapter) since mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Wash off spills immediately with plenty of water. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause corrosion and a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

23 When adding fluid, it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for contamination. The system should be drained and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or contamination are seen in the fluid.

24 After filling the reservoir to the correct level, make sure that the cap is refitted

securely, to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter.

25 If the reservoir requires repeated replenishing to maintain the correct level, this is an indication of an hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

Power steering fluid

26 See Section 5 of this Chapter.

4 Tyre and tyre pressure checks

1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may spare you from the inconvenience of being stranded with a flat tyre. It can also provide you with vital information regarding possible problems in the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs.

2 The current tyres are equipped with tread wear indicator (TWI) bands, which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. Most tyres have a mark around the tyre at regular intervals to indicate the location of the tread wear indicators, the mark being TWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer's symbol. Tread wear can also be monitored with a simple inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge (see illustration). 3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked regularly and maintained correctly (see the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter for pressures). Checking should be carried out with the tyres cold, and not immediately after the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high reading will be obtained, owing to heat expansion. Under no circumstances should an attempt be made to reduce the pressures to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or effective under-inflation will result. Most garage forecourts have a pressure line which combines a gauge to check and adjust the tyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy, due to general misuse and abuse. It therefore pays to carry a good-quality tyre pressure gauge in the vehicle, to make the checks required and ensure pressure accuracy.

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on one side than the other, are indications of front wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, they should be rectified as soon as possible.

5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a consequent loss of adhesion and excessive wear, as well as the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.

6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the danger of damage occurring in the tyre casing.

7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones

Tyre tread wear patterns

Close-up of a car tire tread pattern (no text or symbols visible)

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.

Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering Reduce speed!

Close-up of a car tire with visible tread pattern (no text or symbols)

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don't forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Close-up of a car tire tread pattern (no text or symbols visible)

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

embedded in the tread, before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail, so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to the possible consequences of any damage found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice.

8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large degree by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres may result in more even wear; however, it is worth bearing in mind that if this is completely effective, the added expense is incurred of replacing simultaneously a complete set of tyres, which may prove financially restrictive for many owners.

9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. The front wheels should always be correctly aligned according to the settings specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

10 Don't forget to check the spare tyre for condition and pressure.

11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this information is contained in the Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regulations. It is suggested that a copy of these regulations is obtained from your local police, if in doubt as to current legal requirements with regard to tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth, etc.

5 Power steering fluid level check

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment next to the cooling system expansion tank.

2 For the fluid level check on 4-cylinder models, the power steering system must be cold; on V6 models, it may be either hot or cold.

Close-up of a car engine component being poured into a tank (no visible text or symbols)

5.5 Topping up the power steering fluid reservoir

3 Use a clean rag to wipe the filler cap and the surrounding area, to prevent foreign matter from entering the system. Unscrew and remove the filler cap.

4 Check that the fluid level is up to the "MAX" mark on the dipstick. On V6 engine models, there is a scale on both sides of the dipstick, one for hot checking and one for cold checking.

5 Top-up the level to the "MAX" mark, using the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not to introduce dirt into the system, and do not overfill. The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated.

6 Refit the filler cap.

6 Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer system and wiper blade check

1 The windscreen and tailgate wiper and blade assembly should be inspected at the specified intervals for damage, loose components, and cracked or worn blade elements.

2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution.

3 The action of the wiping mechanism can loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they

Close-up of a metal frame with clamps and connectors (no visible text or symbols)

6.6 Remove the windscreen wiper blade by depressing the catch on the blade, then withdraw the blade assembly off the arm

should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the same time as the wiper blades are checked.

4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked, worn or warped, or no longer clean adequately, they should be replaced with new ones.

5 Switch on the ignition, and the windscreen wipers, then park the wipers vertically on the windscreen while they are still running. Lift the wiper arm and blade away from the glass.

6 To remove the wiper blade, depress the catch on the blade attachment, then withdraw the blade assembly off the arm (see illustration).

7 The tailgate wiper blade is removed in the same way, but it is not necessary to park it in the centre of the glass prior to removal.

8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in good condition, it may be possible to renew the rubber insert separately. The insert can be obtained from a car accessory shop and, according to type, it may need to be cut to the correct length before sliding into the clips.

9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a reversal of the removal procedure, making sure that it fully engages with the spring clip.

10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid onto the upper part of the windscreen/tailgate, and if necessary adjust the small sphere on the jet with a pin. Note that the headlight washer jets are of the fixed type and cannot be adjusted.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first

7 Engine oil and filter change

Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home mechanic can give the

engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure. You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills.

2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work.

3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands.

Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by an hydraulic or scissor-type jack, or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarise yourself with the position of the engine oil drain plug location in the sump. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems while the engine and accessories are cool.

5 The oil should preferably be changed when

Close-up of mechanical components with chains and a tool, no visible text or symbols

7.9 Using a filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing

the engine is still at normal operating temperature, just after a run; warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake, then select 1st or reverse gear (manual transmission) or the "P" position (automatics). Open the bonnet and remove the engine oil filler cap from the valve cover, then remove the oil level dipstick.

6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the front right-hand roadwheel, then remove the plastic panel under the wheelarch to provide additional access to the oil filter.

Warning: To avoid personal injury, never get beneath the vehicle when it is supported by only by a jack. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and refit the roadwheels. Always use axle stands to support the vehicle when it becomes necessary to place your body underneath the vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve! Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan, and check the condition of the plug's sealing washer; renew it if worn or damaged.

8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. When the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it securely.

9 On all engines except the 2.5 litre V6, the oil filter renewal procedure is relatively simple; proceed as follows. Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter then, using a filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing; be prepared for some oil spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn't stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw

5 8 7 6 4 H27515 1 2 3 4

7.12 Oil filter cartridge components on 2.5 litre V6 engines

1 Engine oil drain plug
2 Oil filter housing drain plug
3 Baseplate retaining nuts

4 Baseplate

5 Oil filter cartridge

6 Spring locating lugs

7 Spring

8 Sealing ring

the filter, taking care to spill as little oil as possible.

10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the cylinder block around the filter mounting. If there are no specific instructions supplied with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the filter's sealing ring. Screw the filter into position on the engine until it seats, then tighten it through a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only. Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any tools.

11 On 2.5 litre V6 engines the filter is a cartridge contained within the filter housing. 12 Reposition the drain pan under the filter assembly and first, drain the filter by unscrewing the drain plug on the side of the housing (see illustration). Refit the plug when the filter has drained. Now undo the three retaining nuts and withdraw the baseplate from the filter assembly. As you do this be prepared for oil spillage and catch the filter cartridge and its components, which will fall out and probably land in the oil as the baseplate is removed. Retrieve the filter lower spring and the sealing ring on the baseplate.

13 Clean the baseplate thoroughly and wipe around the inside of the filter housing using a clean lint-free rag.

14 Locate the new sealing ring in the baseplate, then fit the spring to the locating lugs in the baseplate. Locate the filter in the housing, and refit the baseplate. Screw on the three nuts and tighten them securely.

15 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the access panel and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

16 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the "Lubricants, fluids and capacities" Section of this Chapter. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower notch on the dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre will raise the level to the dipstick's upper notch.

17 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; do not race the engine while the light is on. Run the engine for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.

18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, adding more oil as necessary.

19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to "General repair procedures" in the Reference Section of this manual.

8 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition

Caution: Renewal of air conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks.

2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smaller-diameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed.

3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring clamps that are used to secure the hoses in this system appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks.

4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check that they haven't lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren't used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak.

5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering

fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It's quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be numbered or colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material.

7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation.

8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the "hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with moving engine

components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain precautions which must be taken when inspecting or servicing fuel system

components. Work in a well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter.

11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word "Fluoroelastomer" printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be "sprung" during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line.

14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don't have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration.
15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first

9 Cooling system check

1 The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours.

2 Remove the expansion tank filler cap (Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture.

3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses as described in Section 8.

4 Inspect all other cooling system components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3.

5 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers on them.

10 Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication

1 From within the engine compartment check the condition of the accelerator cable ensuring that it isn't kinked or trapped behind any other components or fittings. Make sure that all clips and cable ties are in place and that the cable properly supported. Where cruise control is fitted, check the cruise control operating cable in the same way.
2 Operate the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal and make sure that the action is smooth without notchiness or evidence of binding.
3 Finally, lubricate the throttle linkage and the accelerator pedal pivot with a few drops of light oil.

11 Spark plug renewal

Note: Spark plug renewal at this service interval is only necessary on certain engines without emission control equipment. On all

other engines the recommended interval for spark plug renewal is every 24 000 miles or 2 years. Consult the spark plug manufacturer or a Rover dealer for their advice concerning renewal intervals.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full performance and proper economy of the engine that the spark plugs perform with maximum efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. The suitable type is given in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter, or in the vehicle's Owner's Handbook. If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends.

2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a spark plug socket, with an extension which can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it into the spark plug hole. You will also need a wire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjust the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque

Black-and-white photo of various mechanical tools including a cylindrical tool, a dial with a gear-like end, and a standard mechanical component (no visible text or symbols)

11.2 Tools required for spark plug removal, gap adjustment and refitting

wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration).

3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the top of the engine or on the front and rear facing sides. Note how the spark plug (HT) leads are routed and secured by clips, and on some engines, how they're positioned along the channel in the cylinder head cover. To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to work on one spark plug at a time.

4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4 (or 1 to 6), to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine on 4-cylinder engines, and at the timing belt end of the engine on the rear bank under the brake master cylinder on V6 engines).

5 On 4-cylinder engines, undo the bolts securing the spark plug cover to the centre of the cylinder head, noting the accelerator cable support bracket on early engines. Lift off the cover and again, on early engines, release the HT lead grommet from the end of the cover.

6 On all engines, pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.

7 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If any undue difficulty is encountered when unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

check the cylinder head threads and tapered sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive corrosion or damage; if any of these conditions is found, seek the advice of a dealer as to the best method of repair.

8 As each plug is removed, examine it as follows - this will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture.

9 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich.

10 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition.

11 If you are renewing the spark plugs, purchase the new plugs, then check each of them first for faults such as cracked insulators or damaged threads. Note also that, whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a routine service operation, the spark plug (HT) leads should be checked as described below.

12 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they should always be checked before fitting.

13 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops.

14 To set the electrode gap, measure the gap with a feeler gauge or adjusting tool, and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustrations). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently to align them.

15 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector

sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. Brown staining on the porcelain, immediately above the metal body, is quite normal, and does not necessarily indicate a leak between the body and insulator.

16 On installing the spark plugs, first check that the cylinder head thread and sealing surface are as clean as possible; use a clean rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe clean the sealing surface. Apply a smear of copper-based grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of each plug, and screw them in by hand where possible.

Close-up of a mechanical component with a cylindrical assembly and threaded end (no visible text or symbols)

Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy - it's often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.

17 When each spark plug is started correctly on its threads, screw it down until it just seats lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting.

18 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in their correct order, using a twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly seated. On 4-cylinder engines, refit the spark cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead and distributor cap check

19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up

Close-up of hands using a tool to adjust a metal component (no visible text or symbols)

feeler gauge ...

Close-up of a hand holding a metallic screwdriver next to a small metal bracket (no text or symbols visible)

11.14b ... or adjusting tool ... 11.14a

Close-up of a hand holding a metallic screw with a chain attached (no text or symbols visible)

Measure the sparkusleighgap with the special tool to adjust the gap

Close-up of hands operating a mechanical component with visible gears and shaft (no text or symbols)

12.1a Removing the air cleaner cover ...

Close-up of hands handling a mechanical component with visible internal structure (no text or symbols)

12.1b ... and element on 4-cylinder engines with single-point fuel injection

Close-up of a hand holding a white plastic component connected to a coiled cable, with no visible text or symbols.

12.1c Lift the element out of the housing, together with its support frame on V6 engines

the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Gain access to the leads and disconnect them as described above for the spark plug check and renewal.

20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly corroded to be fit for further use, the lead must be renewed. Push the lead and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it doesn't, remove the lead and use pliers carefully to crimp the metal connector inside the boot until the fit is snug.
21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead sharply, because the conductor might break.
22 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT) leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened at the distributor cap and spark plug when the check is complete. If any sign of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order.
23 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside and out with a dry lint-free rag.
24 Examine the HT lead segments inside the cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free to move and stands proud of its holder. Make sure that there are no sign of cracks or black "tracking" lines running down the inside of the cap, which will also mean renewal if evident. Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5 on completion.

12 Air cleaner element renewal

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly mounted on the left-

hand side of the engine compartment. Undo the retaining screws and/or release the clips, and lift the air cleaner cover, disconnecting the vacuum hose where fitted. Lift the element out of the housing, together with its support frame on V6 engines, and wipe out the housing (see illustrations). Check that no foreign matter is visible, either in the air intake or in the housing.
2 If carrying out a routine service, the element must be renewed regardless of its apparent condition. If you are checking the element for any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used by blowing it clean from the upper to the lower surface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Because it is a pleated-paper type filter, it cannot be washed

or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it.

Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the air cleaner filter element removed.

Excessive engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.

3 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine.

13 Electrical system check

1 Check the operation of all external lights and indicators (front and rear).
2 Check for satisfactory operation of the instrument panel, its illumination and warning lights, the switches and their function lights.
3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation.
4 Check all other electrical equipment for satisfactory operation.
5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine compartment for correct routing, and for any signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.

14 Battery check, maintenance and charging

Warning: Certain precautions must be followed when checking and servicing the battery. Hydrogen gas, which

highly flammable, is always present in the battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other open flames and sparks away from the battery. The electrolyte inside the battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will cause injury if splashed on your skin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and painted surfaces. When disconnecting the battery, always detach the negative (earth) lead first and connect it last!

Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer to Section 1 of Chapter 5.

General

1 A routine preventive maintenance programme for the battery in your vehicle is the only way to ensure quick and reliable starts. Before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work safely around the battery.
2 There are also several precautions that should be taken whenever battery maintenance is performed. Before servicing the battery, always turn the engine and all accessories off, and disconnect the lead from the negative terminal of the battery - see Chapter 5, Section 1.
3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which is both flammable and explosive. Never create a spark, smoke, or light a match around the battery. Always charge the battery in a well-ventilated area.
4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and corrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes. Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses when working near the battery. Keep children away from the battery.
5 Note the external condition of the battery. If the positive terminal and lead clamp on your vehicle's battery is equipped with a plastic