tiptronic 1029 - Sewing machine PFAFF - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL tiptronic 1029 PFAFF

tiptronic 1029 Instruction Book

- Customer Service Copy-

PFAFF Micronie 1928

Illustration of a vintage computer keyboard with no visible text or symbols on the keys or casing

Technical illustration of a mechanical component with housing and mounting base (no text or symbols)

Illustration of a vintage computer with open panel and control panel (no visible text or symbols)

Mechanical assembly diagram showing internal components and housing (no text or labels)

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Contents Page
Removing the carrying case cover 1
Opening the hinged top cover 1
Removing and opening the swing-out arm 1
Accessory box and accessory compartment 2
Electrical connection and foot control 3
Placing spool of thread on pin 4
Upper threading 4
Threading the needle 5
Disengaging the sewing mechanism 5
Winding the bobbin 6
Removing bobbin case and bobbin 7
Inserting the bobbin 7
Inserting the bobbin case 8
Drawing up the bobbin thread 8
Presser bar lifter 9
Thread cutter 9
Thread tension 10
Regulating the stitch length 11
Reverse sewing 11
Finger-tip controls 12
Selecting utility stitches 13
Selecting stretch stitches 13
Utility- and stretch-stitch combinations 14
Selecting the needle position for straight stitching 14
Dropping the machine feed 15
Changing the needle 15
Electronic bobbin thread monitor 16,17
Needle positioner 16,17
Basting 16,17
Electronic top speed selector 16.17
Changing the sewing feet 18
Sewing feet 19
Special sewing feet 20
Sewing buttonholes 20,21
Changing the light bulb 22
Cleaning and oiling 22
Changing the fuse 23
Trouble shooting 24,25

Some safety rules

a) Be careful to avoid injuring your fingers on the needle when sewing.
b) Make sure you unplug the power cord whenever you have to change the needle, sewing foot, bobbin or needle plate, or when you clean or oil the machine or have to interrupt sewing and leave the machine for a while.
c) Only use a 15-watt light bulb in the sewing lamp.

30 31 32 33 41 42 43 40 39 38 37 44 34 35 36

45 46 47 48 57 56 55 54 58 59 60 61 62 49 50 53 52 51

Parts of your sewing machine

30 Carrying handle

31 Hinged top cover

32 Hand wheel

33 Stop motion knob

34 Master switch

35 Finger-tip controls

36 Stitch length control

37 Swing-out sewing arm with accessory compartment

38 Needle plate

39 Sewing foot holder with sewing foot

40 Needle holder with screw

41 Needle thread tension

42 Presser bar lifter

43 Presser bar with thread cutter

44 Reverse-feed control

45 Stitch chart

46 Space for entering phone number of customer service

47 Accessory box with accessory compartment underneath

48 Bobbin winder

49 Top speed regulator

50 Basting stitch button

51 Foot control

52 Free arm cover, enclosing sewing hook

53 Free arm

54 Thread guide

55 Threading slots

56 Take-up lever

57 Spool pin with unreeling discs

58 Threading slot for bobbin winding

59 Bobbin tension stud (bobbin winding)

60 Bobbin rack

61 Bobbin thread monitor

62 Needle positioner ("up" and "down" positioning)

Removing the carrying case cover

To lift off the carrying case cover, fold the handle to the rear, as indicated by an arrow.

Then lift the cover off.

Opening the hinged top cover

Lift back cover 31. You will find there is a stitch chart inside the cover (A).

Removing and opening the swing-out arm

Reach under the swing-out arm with your left hand (B), swing it out toward the left (C) and lift it out (D). Open its lid (E) to accommodate thread and accessories.

Line drawing of a rectangular box with a handle, shown in isometric view (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of an open industrial machine with ventilation grilles and control panel (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of a mechanical component with mounting brackets and a central housing (no text or symbols)

Line drawing of a hand using a sewing machine to adjust or install a component (no text or symbols present)

Technical diagram of a mechanical device with labeled components E, D, and C

Accessory box and accessory compartment

Tilt up the front of accessory box 47 and lift it out (A).

There is an additional accessory compartment (B) underneath.

Fig. C shows how the snap-on sewing feet, the second spool holder and the seam ripper fit into the box.

Line drawing of a hand inserting a component into an electronic device (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of an internal device with a person inside, showing no text or symbols

C

Technical line drawing of mechanical parts (no text or symbols)

Electrical connection and foot control

Take the foot control out of the machine from the right, Fig. C, and pull the lead out of it.

For sewing turn the foot control round and place it under the table.

It is also possible to keep the foot control in the machine during sewing and operate it by hand.

Push plug A into the machine socket and plug B into the wall socket. Press master switch 34. A red indicator lamp lights up.

Your machine is now ready for sewing. Press down the foot control. The machine starts sewing. The more you press down the pedal, the faster the machine runs.

As soon as the machine stops the needle automatically returns to its "up" position. To replace the lead in the foot control pull it slightly and then release it and it will rewind into the control automatically. Push the control back into the machine.

Diagram of an electrical outlet connected to a plug, showing wiring and socket (no text or labels)

Technical diagram showing a device with labeled components and an attached circuit board labeled D

Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with a base platform and a control panel (no text or symbols)

Placing spool of thread on pin

A Small spools of thread: Push unreeling disc D on the spool holder in front of the spool of thread.

B Large spools of thread: Push unreeling discs D and E on the spool holder in front of the spool of thread, as shown in the drawing.

C Second spool holder: This is contained in the accessory box and is used for bobbin winding and twin-needle sewing. Insert the spool holder in hole F and place a spool of thread on it.

Upper threading

For threading both the needle and the take-up lever must be in their "up" position.

Raise the sewing foot. Pull the thread from the spool and draw it into slot A (to the left of guide C), from below into slot B and take-up lever 56.

Then draw it back into slot B, from right into thread guide 54 and into the right thread guide D on the needle holder.

For two-needle sewing, draw one thread into slot A to the left of guide C and the other to the right of guide C. Similarly,

A D E

B F E D

C F

A C 56 B 54 D

one of the threads should be placed in the right thread guide, the other in the left thread guide on the needle holder.

Disengaging the sewing mechanism

Hold the hand wheel firmly and turn the stop motion knob towards you. This disengages the sewing mechanism.

To re-engage the sewing mechanism turn the stop motion knob away from you.

Threading the needle

Thread the needle from front to back.

Line drawing of a sewing machine with a needle and tool, no text or symbols present

Line drawing of hands operating a mechanical component with a circular dial (no text or symbols)

winding the bobbin from a second spool (A)

Disengage the sewing mechanism. Insert the spool holder and place a spool of thread on it. Place a bobbin on spindle 48 so that pin C enters slot D. Pull the thread from the spool, lead it around bobbin tension stud 59, wind it around the bobbin a few times and push the bobbin toward the right to start the winder. When the bobbin is full push it toward the left and take it out. Then re-engage the sewing mechanism.

Important: Leave the top cover open during bobbin winding. The bobbin winder must be disengaged during sewing.

Winding the bobbin through the needle eye (B)

Raise the sewing foot and bring the needle to its highest point. Disengage the sewing mechanism. Place a bobbin on spindle 48 so that pin C enters slot D. Draw the needle thread under the sewing foot, up and into slot 58, and from above around bobbin tension stud 59. Then wind a few turns of thread on the bobbin.

Push the bobbin toward the right to start the bobbin winder. Push the full bobbin toward the left and take it out. Re-engage the sewing mechanism.

A 59 48

B 59 48 58 C D ① ② ③ ④ ⑤ ⑥

Removing bobbin case and bobbin

Open free arm cover 52. Pull out latch K, then lift out the bobbin case, release the latch and take out the bobbin. The bobbin cannot fall out as long as you keep latch K pulled out.

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the filled bobbin into the boopin case so that the thread unreels toward the back (A). Then draw the thread into slot B and under the spring into eye C.

52

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Technical line drawing of a mechanical device with gears and a control panel (no text or symbols)

Technical diagram showing three mechanical assembly steps labeled A, B, and C for a device or component assembly.

Inserting the bobbin case

Pull up latch K and push the bobbin case onto stud B as far as it will go. Cutout A must point upwards. Release the latch. Stud B and latch K must be flush.

Close the free arm cover. It must always be kept closed during sewing so that the photo-electronic bobbin thread monitor can function properly.

Drawing up the bobbin thread

Hold the needle thread a little taut. Press button 62. The needle moves down. Press button 62 again. The needle moves up again.

Pull the bobbin thread out of the needle hole and lay both threads towards the left and back under the sewing foot.

The bobbin thread can also be drawn up by turning the hand wheel.

Technical diagram showing a hand using a tool to adjust or install a component, with labeled parts and directional arrows.

Line drawing of a sewing machine with needle and base components (no text or symbols)

ress

'ress

D

dle

left

up

Presser bar lifter

Lever 42 has three positions:

A = The sewing foot is raised.

B = The sewing foot is raised further for inserting extra-thick materials.

C = The sewing foot is lowered for sewing.

Thread cutter

The thread cutter is an oblique slot located at the back of the presser bar. Raise the sewing foot. Pull the work out of the machine toward the back. Draw the threads into the cutter slot and pull them downwards to cut them.

42

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Pure technical diagram of a mechanical component with curved arrows indicating motion or force (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine with no visible text or symbols

Upper tension (41)

A = Setting mark. The normal tension setting is in the white range between 3 and 5. The higher the number, the tighter the tension.

Lower tension

B = Regulating screw. Turn it left for a looser tension, or right for a tighter tension.
C = Both tensions are correct.
D = Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight.
E = Lower tension too loose or upper tension too tight.

4 3 A

Technical line drawing of a mechanical component with no visible text or symbols

C D E

The correct lower tension

Let the bobbin case with a full bobbin hang down freely by the thread. It must not slide down by its own weight, but should gradually move downwards when you jerk your hand upwards lightly.

Line drawing of a hand holding a thread above a mechanical component (no text or symbols)

Regulating the stitch length

Turn the control so that the number indicating the stitch length chosen is opposite mark A.

Stitch length range: 0–6 mm

Fig. B shows how to set the stitch length control for sewing stretch stitches (red stitch symbols on push buttons).

Reverse sewing

Push button 44. As long as you keep this button depressed, the machine sews backwards.

36 3 2 A

B retch

44 3 4

Finger-tip controls

10 Elastic triple straight stitch Straight stitch
11 Pullover stitch Blindstitch
12 Closed overlock stitch Joining stitch
13 Shell-edge stitch
14 Feather stitch Elastic decorative stitch
15 Honeycomb stitch Elastic stitch

16 Elastic triple zigzag stitch, 5 mm 5-mm zigzag stitch
17 Elastic triple zigzag stitch, 3.5 mm 3.5-mm zigzag stitch
18 Elastic triple zigzag stitch, 2 mm 2-mm zigzag stitch
19, 20, 21:

Button 20 is also used as clearing button for releasing the pushed buttons and the left needle position (see page 14).

Blindstitch: wide = push button 11

narrow = push buttons 10+11

elastic = push buttons 15+16

Diagram of a refrigerator interior with numbered compartments and electrical symbols, likely for electrical or mechanical design reference.

Selecting utility stitches

(white symbols)

Push the desired button and turn the stitch length control to the number indicating the desired stitch length between 1 and 6.

Selecting stretch stitches

(red symbols)

Push the desired button and turn the stitch length control as far as it will go (red symbol).

All zigzag, utility and stretch stitches are halved in width when button 10 is pressed too.

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Line drawing of a hand inserting into a grid of blocks (no text or symbols)

3 2

fetch

Utility-and stretch-stitch combinations

The various stitch combinations are shown in the chart on the inside of the hinged top cover. For example, if you want to sew an elastic blindstitch, push buttons 15 and 16, select a stitch length between 1 and 4.

Selecting the needle position for straight stitching

Left needle position: push button 20 Central needle position: push button 10 Right needle position: push buttons 11 and 12.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with labeled components (no text or symbols)

2 4 20

Simple line drawing of a rectangular shape with a vertical dashed line and a rectangle containing three vertical lines, labeled '10' (no text or symbols beyond the number)

11 + 12

Dropping the machine feed

Open free arm cover 52. Push the drop-feed control toward B. The feed dog is dropped for embroidering, darning, basting etc.

For sewing, push the drop-feed control toward A.

Always close the free arm cover again after making adjustment.

Changing the needle

Raise the needle bar. Then hold the needle, loosen screw A and pull the needle out downwards. Insert a new System 130/705 H needle (with the flat side of its shank facing toward the back) and push it up as far as it will go. Then tighten screw A.

Twin needles with a needle distance of 1.4 mm may be used for zigzag and utility-stitch sewing.

52

Line drawing of a sewing machine with needle and base components (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of a mechanical device with labeled components A and B, showing internal components without any readable text or symbols.

Important

The bobbin winder must always be disengaged during sewing.

Electronic controls

61 Bobbin thread monitor
62 Needle positioner ("up" and "down" positioning)
50 Basting stitch button with indicator lamp A
49 Top speed regulator
34 Master switch

A 61 62 50 49 34 16

Electronic bobbin thread monitor

The red signal lamp of bobbin thread monitor 61 starts to flash when the bobbin thread is running out. The lamp goes out when a full bobbin is inserted and sewing continues.

Important: Free arm cover 52 must be kept closed.

The Pfaff 1029 has a special bobbin (important when re-ordering).

Needle positioner

At the end of each sewing operation the needle is in its "up" position. By pressing button 62 you can bring the needle to its lowest position for sewing corners and turning the fabric. If you press the button again the needle will return to its highest position. It is possible to continue sewing with the needle in its "down" position. If you press button 62 during sewing the needle remains down in the fabric when the machine stops.

Basting

Press basting stitch button 50. The green indicator lamp A lights up. Drop the machine feed (page 15) and screw on the darning foot (page 20). Place the fabric under the sewing foot. Each time you press and release the foot pedal the machine sews one stitch. Move the fabric under the sewing foot until the length of stitch required is obtained, then holding the fabric in this position, press down the foot pedal and release it again. Repeat this operation for each basting stitch.

When you have finished basting move your foot from the pedal and press button 50 again. The green indicator lamp A goes out. Push the drop-feed control to the left again. Close free arm cover 52.

Electronic top speed selector

The infinitely variable top speed of the sewing machine can be selected by moving regulator 49.

When the regulating slide is moved towards minus (—) the machine sews slower. When it is moved towards plus (+) the machine sews faster.

The piercing power of the needle remains the same no matter what the speed is.

Changing the sewing foot

To release the sewing foot push the red button A. When attaching a sewing foot make sure stud B enters slot C. Place the sewing foot under the sewing foot holder and hold it in place with your left hand.

Lower presser bar lifter 42 and at the same time regulation the sewing foot so that stud B fits in syt C. Hole E and screw D are used for attaching an edge guide. Screw F serves to secure the sewing foot holder on the presser Nt

Technical diagram showing three steps of sewing machine tooling: pressing, cutting, and finishing with labeled parts A, B, and C.

Technical diagram of a sewing machine with labeled parts D, E, and F, showing hand positioning and cutting tool path.

ie

d
d
S
e

Sewing feet

A Normal sewing foot
B Clear-view foot
C Buttonhole foot
D Hemmer foot

E Zipper foot
F Blindstitch foot
G Darning foot
H Guide

A 98-394-553-02 B 97-19-1-00 C 98-694-411-00 D 98-694-401-00

E 93-804204-00 F 93-851107-00 G 93-106103-91 H 95-802422-00

Special sewing feet

A Blindstitch foot Blindstitch guide E is adjusted by turning screw D.

B Zipper foot First insert its rear pin into groove F. Then push its front pin into groove G. The zipper foot can be adjusted sideways for stitching along the right or left zipper chain.

C Darning foot Remove the sewing foot holder and secure the darning foot in position with screw H.

The applications of these sewing feet are described in our "Sewing hints" booklet.

Buttonhole settings

Push button 19 (A). Regulate the stitch density in the buttonhole range of the stitch length control (B). Attach the buttonhole foot. Insert the filler cord as follows (C): Place it over the rear lug of the foot, pull it taut and clamp it in front lug D.

As you sew, arrow E moves along scale F. This serves to determine the buttonhole length.

A E D

A B 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Technical line drawing of a mechanical component with labeled parts (no readable text or symbols)

Technical diagram of a mechanical assembly with labeled components A, B, C, D, E, F

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine with labeled parts (no text or symbols beyond labels)

Sewing buttonholes

Pull the bottom of the buttonhole foot forward as far as it will go.

1 Sew first buttonhole seam to the length required.
2 Push button 20 and keep it despressed until the machine has sewn 4 to 6 bartacking stitches, holding the fabric firmly. Release the button.
3 Push button 21. Sew the second button-hole seam the same length as the first.

4 Push button 20 and keep it depressed until the machine has sewn 4 to 6 bartacking stitches. At the same time hold the fabric firmly. Then release the button
5 Sew a few tying stitches. Remove the fabric, pull the filler cord taut and trim.
6 Cut the buttonhole open.

Technical diagram showing four different mechanical or laboratory apparatus configurations labeled 1, 2, 3, and 4.

Technical diagram showing three types of tools or components labeled A, B, and C with numbered parts and measurement indicators.

Changing the light bulb

Switch off the electric current to the machine. Pull out the plug.

Close hinged top cover 31. Tilt the machine to the back and turn it round until the carrying handle is in front of you. Push the light bulb up, turn it towards A and pull it out. Insert the new bulb so that its pins slide in slots C. Push it up and turn it towards B.

Cleaning and oiling

Tilt needle plate 38 up at the back (A) and remove it (B). Clean the machine feed and the parts around the sewing hook with a soft brush. The bobbin thread monitor is to be cleaned as instructed on page 25. Do not oil the machine as it is maintenance-free. All you have to do is put a drop of oil in the hook raceway now and then.

Technical diagram of a mechanical device with labeled components A, B, and C, showing internal components and motion indicators.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with labeled components A and B (no text or symbols beyond labels)

Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with fibers and components (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of a mechanical device with gears and a handle (no text or symbols)

Changing the fuse

Remove plug from socket.

Turn fuse holder A at the back of the machine to the left with a coin and take it out. Pull fuse B out of holder A. Insert the new fuse and replace the holder. FF2A fuses are obtainable at your local Pfaff dealer.

Diagram showing a hand holding a coin with a rotating knob, labeled with point A and directional arrow

Some safety rules

a) Be careful to avoid injuring your fingers on the needle when sewing.

b) Make sure you unplug the power cord whenever you have to change the needle, sewing foot, bobbin or needle plate, or when you clean or oil the machine or have to interrupt sewing and leave the machine for a while.

c) Only use a 15-watt light bulb in the sewing lamp.

Technical diagram of a mechanical component with labeled parts A and B

Trouble shooting

Cause:

Remedy:

1. Machine skips stitches

Needle not inserted correctly.

Push needle up as far as it will go, its flat shank side facing toward the back.

Wrong needle used.

Insert system 130/705 H needle.

Machine threaded improperly.

Check threading.

Needle too thin for thread used.

Select needle according to Needle and Thread Chart.

2. Needle thread breaks

For any of the above reasons.

See par. 1 above.

Thread tension too strong.

Regulate thread tensions.

Poor-quality or knotty thread used, or thread that has become too dry by excessive storage.

Used only good-quality thread.

3. Needle breaks

Needle not pushed up as far as it will go.

Insert new needle and push it up as far as it will go.

Needle bent.

Insert new needle.

Needle too thin or too thick.

See Needle and Thread Chart.

Needle bent and strikes needle plate because work is pushed or pulled.

Let machine feed the work alone.

Bobbin case improperly inserted.

Only guide the material lightly.

When inserting the bobbin case, press against it until it snaps into place.

4. Seam is not uniform

Tension out of adjustment.

Check upper and lower tensions.

Thread too thick, knotty or hard.

Use first-class thread only.

Bobbin thread wound unevenly.

During bobbin winding, do not hold thread in hand, but pass it through the bobbin tension stud.

Kinks appear on top and bottom of material.

Thread machine properly and check both tensions.

Cause:

Remedy:

5. Machine feeds irregularly or not at all

Lint has accumulated between tooth rows of feed dog.

Remove needle plate and clean out lint.

Feed dog dropped. (Drop-feed control is at right.)

Flick drop-feed control to the left.

6. Machine runs with difficulty

Thread ends in hook raceway.

Remove thread ends and put a drop of oil into hook raceway.

7. Electronic bobbin thread monitor does not function

Thread ends and dirt have collected in the free arm cover over the indicator lamp, in the hook raceway, in the bobbin case, behind the hook and on the second indicator lamp to the right behind the hook.

Remove thread ends and dirt. Special care should be taken in the area round the second indicator lamp.

8. The machine only sews slowly, the needle has no piercing power and the electronic system is not functioning

The bobbin winder is engaged; it is at the right.

Move the winder to the left (switch off).

9. The machine sews only one stitch

The machine is set for basting.

Take foot from foot control and press button 50.

10. The sewing lamp lights up and the machine is not running

Fuse is faulty.

Insert new fuse.

PFAFF-HANDELSGESELLSCHAFT

Subject to alterations

in design

Nr. 22157 R 0579

Sewing hints for Tiptronic 1029

Technical line drawing of an electronic device chassis with internal components and mounting bracket (no text or labels)

Contents

Page

Topstitching with the edge guide 3

Blindstitching 4

Buttonholes 5

Button sewing 6

Inserting zips:

Completely concealed zip closure 7

Zip resembling a seam 8/9

Zip closure in ladies' slacks 10

Darning 11

Applique work and cording can be done with the clear-view foot.

Technical diagram of a sewing machine with labeled parts A, B, and C for assembly or maintenance instructions

Topstitching with the edge guide

Preparing the machine:

Sewing foot: Ordinary sewing foot or clear-view foot and edge guide

Edge guide A can be used with nearly all sewing feet.

Line drawing of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no text or symbols)

Fitting the edge guide:

Push edge guide A through hole B and secure it in position with screw C. The guide can be adjusted to the desired stitching margin for various applications (Fig. 1).

With the edge guide attached, it is easy to sew parallel lines of stitches or to stitch parallel to the edge. The guide either follows an edge (Fig. 2) or when making parallel lines of stitches runs along the preceding line of stitches (Fig. 3). The seam thus made looks neat and accurate.

Topstitching with 6-mm long fancy stitches

This is done with the clear-view foot attached. Use buttonhole thread in the needle and ordinary sewing thread in the bobbin.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine on a grid-patterned background (no text or symbols)

Technical diagram of a sewing machine with labeled parts E and D

Blindstitching

Preparing the machine:

Sewing foot: Blindstitch foot
Tension: Ease needle thread tension
Thread: Ordinary sewing thread
Blindstitch: wide, button 11
narrow, buttons 10 and 11
Stitch length: 3-4
Needle: Size 70 or 80

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and clamp mechanism (no text or symbols)

How to adjust the needle position

Place the folded hem under the blindstitch foot so that the fold of the outer material is against guide E of the blindstitch foot.

Turn adjusting screw D to move guide E to the left until the needle catches only one thread in the material when descending on the left side (Figs. 2 and 3). If you press buttons 10 and 11 the blindstitch becomes narrower. Adjust guide E accordingly.

Sew a trial seam on a piece of scrap material first.

Simple line drawing of a vertical tube with internal zigzag lines, no text or symbols present

Pure diagram of a vertical structure with zigzag internal lines, no text or symbols present

Elastic blindstitching

Prepare the machine as described above: Blindstitch: wide, buttons 15 and 16 narrow, buttons 15, 16 and 18

The elastic blindstitch is specially suitable for stretch fabrics. The hem can be overedged and sewn down in one operation if you let the zigzag stitch run along the edge (Fig. 4). Adjust the needle to the correct position as described above.

Buttonholes

Technical line drawing of a mechanical component or bracket (no text or symbols)

Technical diagram of a sewing machine with labeled parts C and D, showing mechanical components and base structure.

E F

Preparing the machine:

Sewing foot: Buttonhole foot

Tension: Ease needle thread tension

Thread: Fine machine embroidery thread

Stitch length: Buttonhole range

Stitch type: Button 19

Needle: Size 70-80

We distinguish between buttonholes with and without filler thread. When a filler thread is used the buttonhole is more prominent, and on stretch fabrics the use of a filler thread prevents the buttonhole stretching out of shape.

As shown in Fig. 1, the filler thread is placed over lug C, led under the sewing foot and clamped in lug D.

Use scale F on the left of the slide to determine the buttonhole length.

Pull slide out as far as it will go. Lower needle and sewing foot. Place the button against the needle. Read the length given on scale F (Fig. 2) and add up to one graduation on the scale, depending on the button size.

As you sew, arrow E moves along scale F. When you have sewn the length required make 4 to 6 bartacking stitches.

Sew the second buttonhole seam in the same length, make 4 to 6 bartacking stitches and a few tying stitches.

Please consult the instruction book for information on adjusting and operating the machine.

Sew a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of material first.

Button sewing

Line drawing of a hand using a tool to press or mark a curved object on a circular base (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of a mechanical clamp or bracket assembly (no text or symbols)

Simple line drawing of a circular component with a curved top and two legs, connected by a cable (no text or symbols)

Simple line drawing of a mechanical component with a circular top and threaded base (no text or symbols)

Preparing the machine:

Sewing foot: Clear-view foot or without sewing foot

Stitch type: Button 17 Thread: Fine sewing thread

Drop the machine feed.

Move the needle to its left position, and turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle descends.

Position the button on the previously marked material: Carefully place material and button under the sewing foot holder. Lower the sewing foot holder and let the needle stitch into the left hole of the button. Turn the balance wheel further until the needle stitches into the right hole of the button. If necessary, alter the position of the button. Sew 6 and 8 zigzag stitches (Fig. 1).

Press button 20, release it again, and sew a few straight stitches in the left hole of the button.

Buttons with shank

Large buttons in heavy materials require a shank.

Let the needle stitch into the left hole of the button. Before lowering the sewing foot place a sewing machine needle shank or match on the middle of the button (Fig. 2). Sew a few zigzag stitches and leave a thread end about 15 cm long. Pull needle and bobbin threads through (Fig. 3) and wrap the stem (Fig. 4). Knot the threads by hand.

Useful hint

Buttons can be kept in position on the fabric by adhesive tape.

However be careful not to damage the material.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical component with no visible text or symbols

Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with no visible text or symbols

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and blade assembly (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and fabric strip (no text or symbols)

Inserting zips

Preparing the machine:

Sewing foot: Zipper foot

Stitch length: 2-3

Stitch type: Button 10

Thread: Ordinary sewing thread

How to fit the zipper foot

Insert the rear pin of zipper foot in rear groove F and push the shoe up until the front pin enters groove G. This zipper foot can be positioned to the right, to the left or in the middle, depending on the sewing operation involved (Fig. 1).

Completely concealed zip closure

Baste in zip by hand first. Push the zipper foot to the left as far as it will go. Place the open zip under the foot so that its teeth run along the right guiding edge on the sole of the foot (Fig. 2). Sew about half the length of the zip at the required width. Leave the needle down in the material, raise the zipper foot and close the zip (Fig. 3). Lower the zipper foot again, continue the seam and then sew across the end.

Sew the other side of the zip at the same margin. Shortly before the end of the seam leave the needle down in the material, raise the zipper foot and open the zip (Fig. 4). Lower the zipper foot again and sew to the end.

Useful hint

We recommend that less experienced sewers use an edge guide to ensure the seam is straight and neat.

Zip resembling a seam

How the zip is prepared and inserted:

Press the edges of the placket. Fold out the left seam allowance (Fig. 1). Place the left side of the open zip in position so that its teeth protrude a little beyond the pressed edge (Fig. 2). The seam is sewn along this edge.

Move the zipper foot to the middle so that the needle stitches into the middle opening. The zip teeth run into the left guiding groove in the foot (Fig. 3). At the beginning of the seam lift up the teeth a little to feed them into the guiding groove. Sew the seam to the end and secure it.

Technical diagram showing two mechanical or fluidic device configurations with labeled parts and directional arrows indicating motion.

Close zip. Pin other side of zip to material at beginning of seam (Fig. 4). Open zip. Remove the pin, turn out the right seam allowance with the zip tape, and pin the latter to the fabric, as shown in Fig. 5. The zip teeth now run into the right guiding groove in the foot (Fig. 6). Finish sewing the zip. Now sew down the zip tape letting the zip teeth run along the guiding edge of the foot (Fig. 7).

Technical line drawing of a mechanical clamp or bracket assembly (no text or symbols)

Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with no visible text or symbols

Technical diagram of a sewing machine with labeled parts A and B, showing mechanical components and assembly lines.

Zip closure in ladies' slacks

A 2

Move the zipper foot to the left as far as it will go. Press the edges of the placket. Baste the closed zip to the right edge of the placket on the wrong side so that its teeth are still visible. Pin facing strip A to the underside and stitch it down at the same time as you sew the zip. The zip teeth run along the right guiding edge of the foot (Fig. 1). Shortly before the end of the seam leave the needle down in the fabric, raise the zipper foot, open the zip, lower the zipper foot again and finish sewing the seam. Close the zip.

Pin the overlapping edge along the intended seam line. Baste left zip edge (Fig. 2).

Open zip. Attach the edge guide and position it for the desired seam margin so that it moves along the edge of the fabric (Fig. 3). Shortly before the end of the seam leave the needle down in the fabric, raise the zipper foot and close the zip. Lower the zipper foot and finish sewing the seam. Secure the end of the zip seam with a bartack.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with no visible text or symbols

Useful hint

If the zip sticks after cleaning we recommend you rub the teeth with a wax candle or piece of soap. This makes the zip easier to open and to close.

Technical diagram of a sewing machine with labeled parts H, I, and J

Darning

Preparing the machine:

Sewing foot: Darning foot

Stitch type: Button 10

Tension: Ease needle thread tension

Thread: Fine machine embroidery thread

Drop the machine feed.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle stitching a patterned surface (no text or symbols)

How to fit the darning foot to your machine:

Remove the sewing foot holder and secure the darning foot with screw H (Fig. 1). Make sure that wire I rests on screw J.

First draw up the bobbin thread and hold both threads when beginning to sew. Then make a few stitches in the material. Stitch back and forth over the damaged area in serpentine fashion, as shown in Fig. 2, rounding the end of each line. When the damaged spot is covered evenly, turn the fabric through 90^ and darn over the preceding rows of stitches (Fig. 2) until the damaged spot is covered.

On this type of work you determine the stitch length yourself by moving the fabric back and forward.

Diagram of a grid pattern with arrows indicating direction, enclosed in a rounded rectangle (no text or symbols)