tipmatic 6120 - Sewing machine PFAFF - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL tipmatic 6120 PFAFF

For easier understanding of this instruction book please fold this or the last page open when reading it.

Safety rules

For the United Kingdom only

The leads must definitely not be connected to the safety lead terminal I nor to a plug with three pins.

The wires in the mains lead are coloured according to the following code:

Blue: Neutral

Brown: Live

As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colour coding of the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows:

The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or coloured black.

The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter L or coloured red.

Cut-off mains plugs are definitely not to be used, but disposed of immediately. Defective mains leads must be replaced completely.

Only 3 A spare fuses must be used as approved by ASTA according to BS 1362 and the fuse cover must be marked 3 A or with the corresponding colour code.

The plug must never be used without fuse cover. Spare fuse covers are available from electrical suppliers or the PFAFF agencies.

Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2.

You can find the list of contents on page 4 and 5.

1 2 3 4 5 6 17 18 19 23 20 PFAFF tiptronic 6230 7 21 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 22 1

PFAFF 24 25 26 27 PFAFF tipmatic 8150 31 30 32 33 29 28

Parts of the sewing machine (Models 6230 and 6150)

(1) Key for „slow sewing" (Model 6230)
(2) Key for „needle down position" (Model 6230)
(3) Key for „tacking" (Model 6230)
(4) Carrying handle
(5) Hand-wheel
(6) Hand-wheel release disk
(7) Fancy stitch knob
(8) Main switch
(9) Connection socket „mains cord" (Model 6230) Connection socket „foot control with mains cord" (Model 6150)

(10) Touch controls
(11) Stitch length knob
(13) Base plate
(14) Detachable work support
(15) Sewing foot holder with sewing foot
(16) Needle threader
(17) Threading slit
(18) Needle thread tension
(19) Take-up lever
(20) Presser bar lifter
(21) Key for „reverse sewing"
(22) Needle holder with fixing screw
(23) Dual feed (top feed)
(24) Reel holder with unwinding disk
(25) Second spare reel holder
(26) Lid with program table
(27) Bobbin winder
(28) Hook cover
(29) Free arm
(30) Thread trimmer
(31) Sewing lamp (max. 15 watt)
(32) Thread guide
(33) Needle plate

(12) Connection socket "foot control" (Model 6230)

Warning symbol with exclamation mark inside a triangle

Important safety instructions

For the United States only

This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only. When you use an electric appliance, basic safety precautions should always be adhered to as follows: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning it.
2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4. Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.
2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to off („0“) position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked.
10. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
11. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
12. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
13. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Use needles recommended by the manufacturer only
14. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break
15. Switch the sewing machine off („0“) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
16. Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual
17. Hold plug when rewinding into cord reel. Do not allow plug to whip when rewinding.

Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Notes on safety

Notes on safety for domestic sewing machines according to DIN 57 700, Section 28 or IEC 335, Section 28.

1. The user must exercise adequate caution with regard to the up and down moving of the needle and constantly observe the sewing area during work.
2. When leaving the machine, during maintenance work or when changing mechanical parts or accessories, always disconnect the machine from the mains by pulling out the mains plug.
3. The maximum permissible wattage for the sewing lamp is 15 Watts.
4. The tension of the drive belt must only be adjusted by a Pfaff mechanic.
5. The machine must be put into operation according to the indications on the specification plate.
6. Do not place any objects in openings on the machine.
7. Do not use the sewing machine if:
8. there is visible damage,
9. its function is disturbed,
10. it is wet, e.g. with condensation.
11. Do not pull the mains plug out of the socket by its cord.
12. If this appliance is used for another purpose than intended or if it is wrongly operated, we will not accept any liability for any damage caused.
13. To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not open the machine. There are no parts inside the machine which the user can repair. This is solely the responsibility of our qualified service staff.
14. Be sure to use only original PFAFF parts.

Environment

The recommended environment is: Ambient temperature 10°C to 40°C, Humidity 20% to 80%.

This sewing machine is a high-quality electronic-mechanical appliance; it is a machine for supervised use in the home. It should be operated in such a way that it is not subjected to: dust, severe dampness, direct sunlight, static electricity, heat-producing objects, corrosive chemicals or liquids.

For ventilation purposes the machine must be used on a free surface, which is both firm and even.

Treatment

Always protect the machine against damage by hitting or dropping.

Cleaning

Housing:

To clean the housing, use a dry, clean and soft cloth which is free of fluff. To remove any stubborn dirt, use a soft cloth with alcohol or paraffin.

Please Note!

Do not use any insecticides or chemical products such as petrol (gas) or thin chemicals for cleaning the housing.

Modern, uncomplicated – Sewing by puchbutton control –

Congratulations! You have bought a high-quality product that offers unique advantages. Your new sewing machine can take any material in its stride and will sew through thick and thin for you.

It features the very latest in design and technology, and this instruction book is just as uncomplicated as your PFAFF sewing machine.

If you now take time enough to study the instruction book, nothing can go wrong.

After all, this is the only way to learn all the things the machine can do, and to make full use of them.

If you have any further questions, that is no problem! Your PFAFF dealer will be at your service with any help or advice you need.

So now you can get started! We wish you many enjoyable hours of creating your fashion ideas.

Contents

Accessories and needles	72 - 81
Accessory compartment	14
Applique	66
Applique foot	78
Bias tape binder	77
Blind stitch	38
Bobbin case	18, 19
Bobbin thread tension	19
Bobbin winding	15 - 17
Borders	62, 63, 64
Buttonholes	46, 47
Changing the needle	26
Changing the needle plate	84
Changing the sewing foot	23
Cleaning and oiling	84
Closed overlock stitch	42
Detachable work support	14
Cording foot	76
Cording foot	78
Covering stitches	44, 45
Darning	51 - 53
Darning tears	53
Darning with elastic stitch	52, 53
Darning with straight stitch	51
Decorative stitches	61 - 64
Dual fabric feed	24, 25
Elastic stitch	41
Elastic stitches	40 - 43
Electrical connection	12, 13
Eyelet embroidery	68
Fancy elastic knob	30
Fancy elastic stitch	45
Fancy stitch table	10
Faults	86
Foot control	13
Foot control	13
Free arm	14
Fringe foot	79
Function keys	31
Gathering foot	75
Gathering with elastic thread	50
Gathering with straight stitch	49
General sewing aids	35
Hand wheel release disk	15
Hem with the twin needle	48
Hemstitching	69
Honeycomb stitch	41
Inserting bobbin	16
Inserting patches	52
Inserting zippers	54, 55
Lace work	57
Lamp	85
Lap feller	75
Left needle position	36
Linen buttonhole	47
Linen buttonhole with gimp thread	47
Lowering the feed dog	27
Main switch	13
Maintenance and faults	84 - 86
Monograms	65
Multi-foot gathering foot	77
Needle chart	80, 81
Needle position	31,36
Needle thread tension	27
Needle threader	21
Non-elastic stitches	36 - 39
Oiling	84
Open overlock stitch	42
Overlock stitches	42, 43
Pattern length	28, 61
Pattern width	29, 61
Practical sewing	35 - 58
Presser bar lifter	22
Puchbutton control	29,30
Pulling up the bobbin thread	22
Pullover stitch	43
Quilting	64
Reverse sewing.	28
Richelieu	66
Right needle position	36
Roll hemming	56
Safety notes	1
Serging with the overlock foot	37, 42
Serging with zigzag stitch	37
Setting stretch stitch	29
Setting utility stitches	29
Sewing chart	34,60
Sewing feet (special accessories)	74
Sewing feet (standard accessories)	72,73
Sewing lamp	85
Sewing on buttons	39
Sewing problems	86
Shell edging	58
Low sewing	31
Mocking	48
Special accessory table	74
Pitch density	28
Pitch length control	28
Straight stitch	36
Stretch triple straight stitch	40
Stretch triple zigzag stitch	40
Stacking	31, 36
Thread tension	18, 19, 27
Thread trimmer	22
Threading	20
Threading the needle thread	20
Threading the sewing machine	20
Top feed	25
Topstitching	35
Win needle	48, 64
Utility stitch chart	6 - 9
Finding from a second reel holder	17
Gzag stitch	37

Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)

A B C D E F G HI H HD I ID IF K [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | ∧... ∧... | ∩. | ∩. | ∩. | ∩. | ∩. | ∩. | ∩. | ∩. | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - |- | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | [ ] [ ][ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - |-|-|-|-|-|-|-|-| [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - |-|-|-|-|-|-|-| [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - |-|-|-|-|-|-|-| [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - |-|-|-|-|-|-|-| [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - |-|-+|-+|-+|-+|-+|-+|- [ ] [ ] [ ] < < < | - | - | - | - +|-.|././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././././. /.

With these programs the stitch length can be set as required between 0 and 6 mm with the stitch length knob (11).

Program	Description	Application
A/B/C	Buttonholes	Standard buttonholes e.g. for blouses or bedclothes
D/E/F	Zigzag stitch in various widths	For serging and appliqué work.
	Straight stitch, needle position, left	For all sewing and topstitching work requiring left needle position
G	Straight stitch, needle position, center	For all straight stitch and topstitch sewing jobs, up to 6 mm stitch length
HI	Straight stitch, needle position, right	For all sewing and topstitching jobs requiring a right needle position
H	Blind stitch, wide	For securing seams invisibly on stronger fabrics
HD	Blind stitch, narrow	For securing seams invisibly on finer materials
I	Greek stitch, wide	A classical, decorative stitch i.e. for the borders on handkerchiefs
ID	Viennese stitch with narrow zigzag	Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles
IF	Viennese stitch with wide zigzag	Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles
K	Shell edging stitch, wide	For decorative hem edges on light fabrics i.e. underwear

Utility stitch table (non-elastic stitches)

KD	KG	L	LC	LD	LF	LI	M	ME	MF	MG

Program	Description	Application
KD	Elastic edge seam	For securing seams of edges that do not fray very much
KG	Shelledging stitch	For decorative hems on light fabrics e.g. for underwear
L	Fancy elastic stitch	For overstitching two buttjoined plies
LC	Emperor stitch	A dainty, decorative stitch
LD	King stitch	A classical, decorative stitch for embroidering borders
LF	Emperor stitch, narrow	A dainty, decorative stitch
LI	Greek stitch, narrow	A classical, decorative stitch
M	Elastic stitch	For sewing on rubber tape, darning tears and inserting patches
ME	Elastic blind stitch	For securing seams invisibly and serging an edge at the same time - particularly for light, elastic fabric
MF	Elastic blind stitch	For securing seams invisibly and serging an edge at the same time - particularly for strong elastic fabric
MG	Scallop stitch	A classical decorative stitch for embroidered borders

Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)

D

E

F

G

HI

H

HD

HG

I

ID

IF

IG

K

KD

KG

KM

With these programs the stitch length knob (11) is turned right to the edge in the grey area i.e. "stretch".

Program	Description	Application
D/E/F	Stretch triple zigzag stitch in various widths	For sewing elastic tape onto elastic materials
	Stretch triple straight stitch, needle position, left	For stretch seams requiring a left needle position
G	Stretch triple straight stitch, needle position, center	For stretch seams e.g. step seams as well as seams in sportswear and working garments
HI	Stretch triple straight stitch, needle position, right	For stretch seams requiring a right needle position
H	Pullover stitch, wide	Elastic closing and serging seams for rough jersey
HD	Pullover stitch, middle	Elastic closing and serging seams for medium material quality
HG	Pullover stitch, narrow	Elastic closing and serging seams for fine jersey
I	Closed overlock stitch wide	A closing and serging seam for fraying material
ID	Turkish stitch	A topstiching seam for patchwork and quilting
IF	Penant stitch	A decorative, stretch stitch, also suitable as a covering stitch for stretch material
IG	Closed overlock stitch, narrow	A closing and serging seam, also for sewing on lace
K	Opened overlock stitch	A closing and serging seam for stronger material that does not fray so much
KD	Peacock stitch with zigzag	A decorative, stretch stitch for topstitching and fancy edges
KG	Peacock stitch with straight stitch	A decorative stitch for topstitching and fancy edges
KM	Cord stitch	A loose decorative seam

Utility stitch table (elastic stitches)

L

LD

LF

LI

LK

LDK

LEI

LGK

LMK

M

MD

ME

MF

MG

Program	Description	Application
L	Feather stitch	For overstitching two buttjoined plies Also suitable for stretchy materials.
LD	Dutch stitch	A decorative stitch e.g. for home textiles
LF	Scroll stitch	A decorative stitch e.g. for home textiles
LI	Weaving stitch	An ornamental seam e.g. for bath equipment
LK	Diagonal stitch, narrow	A decorative, elastic stitch
LDK	Diagonal stitch, wide	A decorative, elastic stitch
LEI	Branch stitch	A decorative, elastic stitch e.g. for sportswear
LGK	Border stitch	A decorative stitch e.g. for traditional embroidery
LMK	Triangle stitch	A decorative, elastic stitch
M	Honeycomb stitch	For sewing on elastic thread, overstitching terry cloth seams and for ornamental hem seams
MD	Joint stitch	For overstitching elastic seams and hems
ME	Florentine stitch, narrow	A stretch, decorative stitch
MF	Florentine stitch, wide	A stretch, decorative stitch
MG	Cock tread	A decorative stitch e.g. for tablecloths

Ornamental stitch chart

Various pattern combinations can be produced by pressing the keys in connection with the ornamental stitches. The chart shows you the ornamental stitch and the relevant key to be selected.

For „stretch“ the stitch length knob (11) must be turned to the edge in the grey area, i.e. to „stretch“.

U	V	W	X	Y	Z	UG	UF	UD	VG
VF	WF	XG	XD	YG	YF	ZD	ZF	MDF	XF
Vstretch	Xstretch	Zstretch	VMstretch	VMstretch	XMstretch

White PFAFF tiptronic 6230 sewing machine on a plain surface (no visible text or symbols on the device body)

Operation of the sewing machine

Electrical connection	page 12, 13
Detachable work support	page 14
Bobbins	pages 15 – 17
Bobbin case	pages 18, 19
Bobbin thread tension	page 19
Threading the needle	page 20
Needle threader	page 21
Pulling up the bobbin thread	page 22
Sewing foot lifter	page 22
Thread trimmer	page 22
Changing the sewing foot	page 23
Dual Feed	page 24, 25
Top feed	page 25
Changing the needle	page 26
Needle thread tension	page 27
Lowering the feed dog	page 27
Reverse sewing	page 28
Stitch length knob	page 28
Pushbutton controls	page 29, 30
Function keys	page 31

White rectangular box with a white shelf and a small cylindrical object on the side (no visible text or symbols)

Carrying case

Place the enclosed mains cord, foot control and instruction book in the compartment of the carrying case.

Person operating a mechanical setup with a vertical rod and base, no visible text or symbols

Top cover

Open the folding cover (26) upwards.

Scanned image of a HP advertisement machine with visible brand logo and printed text

Programs

The programs of the sewing machine are illustrated on the inside of the top cover.

Close-up of a white electronic device with a cable and plug, no visible text or symbols

Electrical connection (Modell 6230)

Connect the mains cord with the socket (9) of the sewing machine and the wall socket.

Close-up of a white electronic device with a cable, resting on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Connecting the foot control (Model 6230)

Connect the plug of the foot control with the connection socket (12) of the sewing machine.

The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the pedal.

Close-up of a mechanical device with wires and a mounted component (no visible text or symbols)

Connecting the foot control (Models 6110, 6120, 6150)

Connect the plug of the foot control with the connection socket (9) of the sewing machine. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the pedal. The sewing speed can also be regulated with the slide control on the head of the foot control.

Position ▶ = half speed

Position = full speed

Pure electrical circuit lines without any symbols

Main switch

When the main switch (8) is switched on, the sewing lamp lights up.

The sewing machine is now ready to use.

PFAFF

A B

Winding the bobbin from the reel holder

Place the sewing thread on the reel holder (24). To obtain free movement of the thread and hold the thread reel firmly, fit an unwinding disk corresponding to the size of the thread reel.

Threading

Place the thread into guide A from behind and pull it through opening B to the right. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bobbin.

Switch on the main switch

Hold the end of the thread firmly and press the foot control. As soon as the bobbin is full, the winding action will stop automatically. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and take it off.

Remember:

Turn the release disk (6) fully back again. Then turn the hand wheel (5) towards you until it snaps in.

PEAFF D C N M R L F I O H B A H D S E K P G T V S L E L M U V W M M1 U V W M M2 U V W M M3

Winding from the second reel holder

Insert the second reel holder (25) in the hole provided and place a reel of thread on it.

Threading

Place the thread into guide C and pull it through opening B to the right. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bob-bin.

Switch on the main switch

Hold the end of the thread firmly and press the foot control. As soon as the bobbin is full, the winding action will be stopped automatically. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and take it off.

Remember:

Turn the release disk (6) fully back again. Then turn the hand wheel (5) towards you until it snaps in.

TIP: If the machine is already threaded, you can wind thread from the second thread reel without having to unthread the machine.

A B C

Close-up of a hand using a handheld device to test or inspect a surface (no visible text or symbols)

Hook cover
Switch off the main switch

Hold the hook cover (28) at the side and open it to the front.

Close-up of a hand operating a mechanical device with a transparent screen (no visible text or symbols)

Taking out the bobbin case

Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull out the bobbin case. Release the latch and take out the empty bobbin.

Close-up of hands holding a small metallic object, possibly a tool or component (no visible text or symbols)

Thread tension

To obtain optimum seam appearance and durability make sure the needle and bobbin thread tensions are correctly adjusted to each other, i.e. the threads are interlaced between the two fabric plies. For fancy seams and buttonholes the thread interlace should be visible on the reverse side of the fabric.

Technical diagram showing a hand operating a mechanical component with labeled parts A through F

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case.

When doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A, then under tension spring B until it rests in the opening (see arrow).

Check:

When you pull the thread, the bobbin must turn clockwise.

Checking the bobbin thread tension

Hold the bobbin case by the thread and move your hand sharply upwards. The bobbin case must slip downwards a little with each hand movement.

Correcting the tension:

Turn adjusting screw C just a little to the left to decrease the bobbin thread tension.

Turn screw C just a little to the right to increase the tension.

Inserting the bobbin case

Lift cover F and push the bobbin case fully onto pin D of the sewing hook. Opening E of the bobbin case must face upwards.

Check:

Pull the bobbin thread sharply; the bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.

PFAFF D A E F 32

Threading the needle

Switch off the main switch.

Raise the presser foot lifter (20). Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever (19) has moved to the top. Place the thread on the reel holder (24) and fit an unwinding disk of the right size.

Now, using both hands, pull the thread into guide A and under thread guide hook D. Pass the thread through the threading slot (17) and downwards. Pull the thread around stop E into the righthand threading slot and upwards to the take-up lever (19). The thread must be pulled into the take-up lever from left to right. Then pass the thread downwards again in the righthand threading slot and behind thread guide F.

Finally pass the thread from the side behind one of the two thread guides (32).

To thread the needle, please refer to the next page.

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle (no visible text or symbols)

Technical diagram showing mechanical assembly with labeled components and directional arrows indicating motion or force

Needle threader (Models 6120, 6150, 6230)

The PFAFF needle threader (16) is an aid to make threading the needle easier and quicker. Lower the sewing foot (see next page). Turn the hand wheel until the needle is at its highest point. Place the needle thread over hook O and hold it taut. Move the threader fully downwards and turn it towards the needle so that the small hook R goes through the needle eye. Place the thread into the hook from below.

Turn the threader towards the rear, releasing the thread carefully, and allow the threader to move upwards. You can now pull the end of the thread through the needle eye.

Black-and-white photo of a mechanical device with an arrow indicating direction (no visible text or symbols)

Presser bar lifter

The sewing foot is raised or lowered with the presser bar lifter (20).

Close-up of a mechanical device with a cylindrical component and a vertical assembly (no visible text or symbols)

Drawing up the bobbin thread

Raise the sewing foot. Hold the needle three and turn the hand wheel towards you until the needle is at the top again and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread.

Close-up of a mechanical device with a hand holding a tool, showing internal components and assembly (no visible text or symbols)

Bobbin thread

Close the hook cover (28) and pull the thread under the sewing foot to the left.

Mechanical device with mounted components and a ruler, no visible text or symbols

Thread trimmer

Pull the threads from the back to the front over the thread trimmer (30).

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine (no visible text or symbols)

Removing the sewing foot Turn off the main switch

Set the needle at its highest point. Press the sewing foot upwards at the front and downwards at the back at the same time so that it disengages from the sewing foot holder (15).

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric on a metal base (no visible text or symbols)

Engaging the sewing foot

Place the sewing foot under the sewing foot holder (15) that the pins of the foot engage in the sewing foot holder when the presser bar lifter (20) is lowered.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a circuit board (no visible text or symbols)

Check:

Please check that the sewing foot is properly engaged by raising the presser bar lifter.

Close-up of hands assembling electronic components with wires (no visible text or symbols)

The built-in dual fabric feed (Models 6120, 6150, 6230)

For sewing difficult materials PFAFF offers the ideal solution: built-in dual feed. As on industria sewing machines it feeds the material from the top and bottom at the same time. The fabric is fed accurately. On light or difficult materials such as silk and viscose fabrics the dual fabric feed prevents seam puckering. The even feeding action also ensures perfect matching of checked and striped fabrics (see next page).

Close-up of a mechanical device with a foot and curved base, possibly a sewing machine or sewing machine (no visible text or symbols)

Engaging the top feed (Models 6120, 6150, 6230)

Raise the sewing foot. Now push the top feed (23) so that it snaps in place.

Black-and-white photo of a person using a sewing machine (no visible text or symbols)

Disengaging the top feed

Hold the top feed with two fingers at the marked places. Push the top feed (23) down a little and out to the rear, and let it move slowly upwards (see also the illustration on page 24).

Abstract black-and-white grid pattern with no discernible text, symbols, or structured data

Important!

For all sewing jobs with the top feed, only use sewing feet with cutout at the back.

C C O 100 A B C D E F

Close-up of hands using a sewing machine to adjust or install a small electronic component (no visible text or symbols)

A

Changing the needle

Switch off main switch

To remove: Lower the sewing foot and set the needle at its highest point. Now loosen the fixing screw (22) and pull the needle out downwards.

To insert: The flat side A of the needle must face to the rear. Lower the sewing foot and insert the needle, pushing it up as far as it will go. Hold the needle and tighten the fixing screw (22) firmly.

5 4 A

Setting the needle thread tension

Set the required amount on the needle thread tension (18) using mark A.

The normal setting for sewing is 4 to 5. For embroidering, darning and buttonhole sewing between 2 and 3.

Pure black-and-white image with no visible text, numbers, or symbols

B

Lowering the feed dog

For certain sewing work, e.g. darning, the feed dog has to be dropped. To do this, open the hook cover and press slide B fully to the right. Now the feed dog is lowered.

PFAFF tiptr 3 2 G H 3 2 G H A B

Reverse sewing

The machine sews in reverse as long as the reverse key (21) is kept pressed.

Stitch length knob

You can set the stitch length (11) from 0 to 6 mm infinitely with the stitch length knob, by turning to the marking for the desired stitch length.

0 G H A B 6 G H A B

You will find the symbol "buttonhole" between the figure 0 and 1. The optimal stitch density for sewing buttonholes is in this range. The stitch becomes more concentrated the farther you turn towards 0.

You must turn the stitch length knob (11) as far as it will go to sew the stretch stitches with a grey background.

PFAFF tiptronic 6230

Made in Germany

2 G H A B C D E F

Pushbutton controls

Setting utility stitches

Under the lid (26) you can find the program table with all the stitches and stitch combinations. On model 6230 the most important stitches are additionally illustrated on the lighted display.

Each program has been given a letter that you can find on the bushbutton controls. If the right button is pressed the program is selected and the machine is ready to sew. Key B releases the keys that have been activated. If key G on models 6150 and 6230 is pressed again the width of the stitches can be reduced by half.

PFAFF tiptronic 6230

Made in Germany

6 A B C D E F

Setting stretch stitches

All the stitches with a grey background are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch material. Press the selected key down and turn the stitch length knob (11) right to the edge of the grey area.

Key B releases the keys that have already been activated. On models 6150 and 6230 if key G is pressed again the width of the stitches can be reduced by half.

Important: When sewing with utility stitches with models 6150 and 6230 the fancy stitch knob (7) must be switched off, i.e. turned to ●

Made in Germany G H F K L A B C D E

Utility and stretch stitch combinations

By striking two or several keys you can m combinations in the utility stitch range

The stitch length knob can either be set in utility sewing range or in the stretch range

All the stitch combinations are illustrated of the program table in the lid. You can release keys that are already activated with key B.

Simple diagram of a cylindrical object with a central cross and two horizontal lines, no text or symbols present.

PFAFF tiptronic 6230

Made in Germany

PFAFF tiptronic 6230

Fancy stitch knob (Models 6150 and 6230)

Each fancy stitch has been given a letter. Select a fancy stitch from the program table and turn the fancy stitch knob (7) to the correct letter under the marking. The stitch length is between 0.5 and 1 mm.

Fancy stitches and combinations (Models 6150 and 6230)

Pattern combinations can be produced by pressing the keys together with the fancy stitch knob. You will find the setting on part 10. The stitch length is between 0,5 and 1 mm.

For „stretch“ you must turn the stitch length knob upwards as far as it will go, i.e. into the grey area.

Simple line drawing of a pen and two square buttons with icons, no text or symbols present

Function keys (Model 6230)

The tiptronic has three function keys.

1. Sewing slowly

When key (1) "slow sewing" is pressed the green diode lights up. The sewing machine now sews at half speed. If the key is pressed again the green diode is extinguished and the machine sews at full speed again.

Simple line drawing of a tool with three square buttons and a vertical rod, no text or symbols present

2. Needle position up/down

Each time sewing is interrupted the needle automatically goes to its highest position. If key (2) is pressed the diode lights up. The needle now remains in the material each time there is an interruption in sewing. If you press the key again the diode is extinguished and the needle automatically goes up again.

Image showing a pair of curved objects and three labeled buttons with symbols: 1, 2, and 3.

3. Tacking

If key (3) "tacking" is pressed the green diode lights up. The machine now only sews one stitch when the foot control is activated. If the key is pressed again the diode is extinguished together with the function.

Black-and-white portrait of a woman seated on a bench, wearing a blazer and high heels (no visible text or symbols)

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Sewing chart page 34

General sewing aids pages 35

Non-elastic stitches pages 36 - 39

Elastic stitches pages 40, 45

Overlock stitches pages 42, 43

Covering stitches pages 44, 45

Buttonhole pages 46, 47

Hems with twin needle page 48

Smocking page 48

Gathering pages 49, 50

Darning pages 51 - 53

Inserting zippers pages 54, 55

Rollhemming page 56

Sewing lace page 57

Shelledging Page 58

Explanation of the sewing chart

The following charts show the recommended settings that you require for the relevant sewing operations.

These charts also provide you with further instructions that are necessary when sewing the selected programs:

The choice of the sewing foot, the setting of the needle thread tension and whether the sewing is carried out with the top feed switched on or off.

	prog
a
b

a Models 6120 - 6230 b Model 6110

prog ↑ Stitch length in mm Stitch width in mm Top feed engaged on ● disengaged off ○ Needle thread tension Number of the sewing foot

5 4 m

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine on a textured fabric floor (no text or symbols)

Needle thread tension

In order to obtain perfect sewing results the needle and bobbin thread tensions must be correctly adapted to each other. The normal setting for utility stitches is 3 to 5.

Check the tension using a wide zigzag stitch. The interlace of the two threads must lie in the middle of the two fabric plies.

If the interlace lies on the top side of the fabric, this means the needle thread tension is too tight. If it lies on the reverse side, the needle thread tension is set too loose.

To adjust the bobbin thread tension, please refer to page 19.

Topstitching

With programs G and HI you can change the needle position in such a way that you can always guide the sewing foot along the fabric edge for topstitching work. If you wish to topstitch at a wider width than this, simply guide the fabric along the guide marks on the needle plate, or use edge guide 8. The edge guide is inserted into hole C and is secured with fixing screw F.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine tool (no text or symbols visible)

Sewing aid for thick seams

To ensure correct feeding at the beginning of the seam we recommend placing a piece of fabric of the same thickness as the work under the sewing foot to support it.

Pure geometric diagram of a roof or floor structure with diagonal lines and circular markers (no text or symbols)

	prog
a	Taste 3	-	-	○	3	0/1
b	-	-	-	-	-	-

	prog
a	G	2,5	-		3-5	0/1
b	G	2,5	-	-	3-5	0

Basting stitch (Model 6230)

With key (3) "basting" you can baste a garment before trying it on. When you press the foot control the machine will only make one stitch. For each further stitch you have to press the foot control each time.

• Lower the bottom feed and disengage the top feed.
• Place the fabric under the sewing foot.
• Sew one stitch, then pull the fabric to the rear by the required amount.
• Repeat this as many times as you need to finish the work.

TIP: To prevent the material plies from shifting, insert dress pins crosswise to the basting direction. Light fabrics are easier to baste with long straight stitches (6 mm). Then you do not need to lower the bottom feed.

Straight stitch

Program G is the basic straight stitch with middle needle position. The stitch length can be increased up to 6 mm as required.

Some sewing jobs can be done easier by changing the needle position, e.g. topstitching a collar or sewing in a zipper. You have a choice of three needle positions.

Needle position on the left – release all the keys with key B.

Needle position in the middle - key G

Needle position on the right - key H and I

When adjusting the position of the needle please make sure it is in the highest position.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

prog
a	DEF	1-2	3-6	●	3-5	013
b	DEF	12	36	—	35	03

Zigzag stitch

With keys D, E and F you can alter the width of the zigzag stitches from 2 to 6 mm. By combining the keys D/E or E/F you obtain additional widths. When serging the edge, always make sure the needle goes into the material and over the edge alternately.

Technical diagram of a mechanical assembly with labeled parts A, B, and C

For serging difficult materials, blind stitch foot: No. 3 is very useful. While sewing, the thread lies over pin C, thus preventing curling of the fabric edge. In this way you can sew beautiful smooth seams.

The edge of the cutting has to be guiding along edge guide B. You can adjust this edge guide with adjusting screw A.

Important: Only use the blind stitch foot with key F.

Cropped image showing a vertical line of handwritten or printed text with a wavy line, likely from a technical or legal document.

Technical diagram of a mechanical assembly with labeled components A and B, showing cross-sectional views and structural details.

If the stitches are visible on the face side, adjust edge guide B by turning adjusting screw A.

Blind stitch

Blind stitch H is best suited for invisible hems; sewing by hand is unnecessary.

• Serge the edge of the hem.
• Fold the edge inwards by the hem width.
• Now unfold the hem again so that the hem edge protrudes by about half an inch.
• Now place the fabric under the sewing foot so that the crease line runs along edge guide B.
• When the needle enters the crease line it must only pick up one fibre of the fabric.

Pure technical line drawing of two vertical structural components with zigzag patterns and base notches (no text or symbols)

Program MF/Stretch is a blind stitch for elastic materials (except model 6110).
The hem is sewn and serged at the same time, i.e. it is not necessary to serge the fab edge.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical device with a circular base and pointer, no visible text or symbols

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle stitching a circular base (no text or symbols)

	prog
a	E	-	4	○	2-3	-
b	E	-	4	-	2-3	-

Sewing on buttons with stems

• Insert the sewing foot.
• Place a match between the holes of the button and sew it on as described on the left.

Sewing on buttons

With program E you can sew on two and four-hole buttons with no problem at all.

• Remove the sewing foot and lower the feed dog.
• Turn the hand wheel towards you and position the button so that the needle enters the left hole in the button.
• Now lower the presser bar lifter; the button is now held by the shank of the foot.
• Now sew on the button. Make sure that the needle also enters the right hole in the button.
• Then release with key B and the needle automatically goes into the left hand position.
• Now sew with a few stitches. Make sure that the needle enters in the left hole of the button.

Technical line drawing of two mechanical components with no text or symbols

• Remove the match and pull the button and fabric apart.
• Wrap the stem with sewing thread and knot it.

Curved black line on a textured gray background, no text or symbols present

Pure zigzag line pattern on textured background (no text or symbols)

	prog
a	G	Stretch	-		3.5	0/1
b	G	Stretch	-		3.5	0

	prog
a	D/E/F	Stretch	4 6	●	3-5	0/1
b	D/E/F	Stretch	4 6	-	3 5	0

Stretch triple straight stitch

This program is used for sewing all seams where great strength is needed, e.g. inside trouser seams. The farther you turn the stitch length knob, the longer the stitch length.

Stretch triple zigzag stitch

The stretch triple zigzag stitch is a highly elastic and decorative seam which is very suitable for hems on T-shirts and underwear.

• Serge the edge of the hem.
• Fold the hem inwards at the required width.
• Topstitch the hem from the face side.

Black-and-white photo of a sewing machine needle stitching a zigzag pattern (no text or symbols visible)

	prog
a	M	1-2,5	6	●	3-5	0/1
b	M	1-2,5	6	-	3-5	0

	prog
a	M	Stretch	6	●	3-5	0/1
b	M	Stretch	6	-	3-5	0

Elastic stitch

Owing to its high elasticity this stitch is used for sewing on elastic tapes, e.g. on underwear.

• Cut off the old elastic tape close to the edge.
• Gather the fabric with 6 mm long straight stitches.
• Push the part prepared in this way between the elastic tape, or place it underneath, and pin it firmly in place.
• Sew it on with elastic stitch. Leave the ends of the elastic tape overlapping a little and sew over them with elastic stitches.
• On skirts or trousers the elastic tape is sewn onto the prepared edge with elastic stitch.

Honeycomb stitch

Honeycomb stitch is used for elastic and decorative hemming, and is very suitable for hems on underwear and T-shirts.

- Fold the edge of the hem over double and overstitch it.

Pure geometric pattern with diagonal line and textured background (no text or symbols)

What is an overlock stitch?

For knitted and other stretch materials the models with pushbutton controls offer a selection of overlock stitches. These join two plies of fabric and serge them in one operation. They have a higher elasticity than usual seams, they are more durable, and you can sew them fast, too.

TIP: When you sew overlock seams, we recommend you use blind stitch foot No. 3. It guides the fabric better and prevents contraction of the seam at wider stitch widths.

	prog
a	|	Stretch	6	●	3-5	0/1/3
b	|	Stretch	6	-	3-5	0/3

	prog
a	K	Stretch	6	●	3-5	0/1/3
b	K	Stretch	6	-	3-5	0/3

Closed overlock stitch

Program I is ideal for sewing jersey fabrics especially. You can use it for sewing on sleeve cuffs or knitted collars durably, too.

TIP: Make sure that the cuff is stretched while sewing.

Open overlock stitch

With this stitch it is no problem to join firm materials or fabrics which do not fray too much.

TIP: Make sure that the needle in its righthand position just misses the edge of the material.

Pattern of repeating black dots and wavy lines on white background (no text or symbols)

prog
a	H	Stretch	6	●	3-5
b	H	Stretch	6	-	3-5

Pullover stitch

This stitch is suitable for open knit fabrics. Fully fashioned parts can be easily sewn together with it. Make sure that the material is fed to the right of the needle not to the left.

TIP: To prevent the seam from stretching open while joining, it is advisable to add a woollen thread under slight tension.

Abstract pattern of repeating dot textures with a vertical black line dividing them (no text or symbols)

What is a covering stitch?

You can use the following programs for sewing a flat covering seam. This produces the typical "flatlock effect" which lends a professional look to collar plackets or raglan seams.

3mm

	prog
a	L	Stretch	6	●	3-5	1
b	L	Stretch	6	-	3-5	0

Fagoting stitch

With fagoting stitch you can make very elastic seams with hemstitching effect, e.g. on corsetry.

• Serge the fabric edges and tack baste over on the inside.
• Place the fabric under the sewing foot with the edges about 1/8 of an inch apart.
• Sew on the face side, making sure the needle enters the material on the right and left side.

Abstract zigzag line pattern with no text or symbols

Close-up of a curved, textured surface with no visible text or symbols

	prog
a	L	1-2	6	●	3-5	1
b	L	1-2	6	-	3-5	0

	prog
a	IF	Stretch	6		3-5	1
b	-	-	-	-	-	-

Fancy elastic stitch

Fancy elastic stitch is very useful for materials that need a flat seam, e.g. terry cloth.

- Place the two fabric edges so that they overlap by about 3/4 of an inch and over-stitch each edge with fancy elastic stitch.

Pennant stitch

Pennant stitch is one of the many covering stitches. Since it can be stretched it is particularly suitable for overstitching the bands on elastic material e.g. sweat shirts or sportswear.

• Sew the band onto the part with overlcck stitch.
• The seam allowance can now be over-stitched from the right side of the fabric. Make sure that the needle enters in the shadow of the seam.

PFAFF

tiptronic

6230

tipmatic

6110, 6120, 6150

PART B

PFAFF siptronic 6230

Instruction manual

Buttonholes

Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all the models with pushbutton controls since the fabric does not have to be turned.

Buttonholes are generally sewn onto a piece of doubled fabric. However, for some materials, e.g. silk, organza and viscose, it is necessary to use silk paper backing to prevent the material from contracting while sewing.

Avalon (by Madeira) is ideal for this purpose. It is a special nonwoven fibre which dissolves when it comes into contact with water. For materials such as velvet, leather or thick woollens, which are difficult to feed, it can be placed over or under the fabric. In this way the material is not braked and buttonholes are much easier to make.

To produce beautiful seams, embroidering or darning threads are ideally suitable.

Mark the starting point of the buttonhole either with a magic pen or dress pin, and always sew a sample buttonhole first.

Note:

Before starting any buttonhole, always push the guide of the buttonhole foot fully to the front, i.e. so that the red arrow is at the first red mark. The red marks are arranged at an interval of 0.5 cm. They are a guide when fixing the length of the buttonhole.

A B

Simple diagram of a cylindrical object with two curved ends, no text or symbols present

	prog
a	A/B/C		4-4.5		3	5
b	A/B/C		4-4.5	-	3	5

	prog
a	A/B/C		4-4,5		3	5
b	A/B/C		4-4,5		3	5

Linen buttonholes

• Insert the buttonhole slide and push it fully to the front.
• Press key C and sew the first seam to the required length.
• Then press key B. Keep it pressed and sew a few stitches for the bartack, while holding the material securely.
• Then press key A and sew back the second seam to the same length.
• Now press key B again and sew a few bartack stitches, while holding the material securely.
• When the key is released the needle jumps to the left position and you can sew up the buttonhole with a few stitches.
• Cut the buttonhole open with a pair of scissors or a seam ripper.

Linen buttonhole with gimp thread

To produce highly durable buttonholes, e.g. for sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread.

For all stretchable materials, too, a gimp thread is very important, in order to avoid overstretching of the buttonhole.

• Place the gimp thread over the back ridge A and pull the thread ends under the sewing foot to the front.
• Pull the threads into the left and right of ridge B.
• Push the buttonhole slide fully forward, then sew the buttonhole.
• Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the buttonhole and cut off the loose thread ends.

Scanned text of dense, vertically aligned Chinese characters on a grid background

Black-and-white sketch of abstract shapes and objects, no visible text or symbols

	prog	↓	>	-	-	-
a	G	3	-	●	3-5	0/1
b	G	3	-	-	3-5	0

	prog
a	G	3-4	-	●	3-5	0/1
b	G	3-4	-	-	3-5	0

Sewing hems with the twin needle

With the twin needle you can not only embroider, but also make topstitch seams.

Using the twin needle you can add a professional touch to hems on stretch materials such as T-shirts, knitted articles or cycling shorts both quickly and easily. Twin needles are available in different widths. The most common is 4 mm. Do not forget to use only jersey needles for stretch fabrics.

• First iron the hem over at the required width.
• Then stitch the hem through from the face side of the fabric.
• Finally, trim the overlapping hem edge back to the seam.

TIP: On difficult fabrics such as ribknits it is easier to baste the hem over before topstitching. To thread the twin needle, please refer to page 64.

Smocking effect with elastic threads

Fine light materials such as batiste, viscose or silk are particularly suitable for effective smocking. When smocking with an elastic thread you should use an additional bobbin case and wind the elastic thread by hand. Since elastic thread is a lot thicker than the normal bobbin thread the tension of the bobbin case must be set loosely. The general rule is - the stronger the bobbin thread tension the greater the gathering effect.

• Sew a sample seam to check the degree of gathering.
• Mark the first line on the face of the fabric.
• You can sew each additional row a sewing foot away from the first row.
• When sewing several rows side by side you must pull the material while sewing since otherwise the gathering is uneven.
• Knot the threads at the beginning and end of the rows on the reverse side of the material.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a cracked surface with visible cracks and texture (no text or symbols)

	prog
a	G	6	-	●	3.5	0.1
b	G	6	-	-	3.5	0

Gathering with straight stitch

With Program G at a stitch length of 6 mm you can gather sleeves, skirts or valances. To obtain a neat and even gather you should sew two or three gathering seams.

• Mark the first line on the face side of the fabric and stitch along it. Leave about four or five inches of thread protruding at the end.
• You can now stitch the other seams at sewing foot width using the first one as a guide.
• Now gather the part by pulling the bottom threads. You determine the amount of gather yourself.
• Finally, knot the thread ends together to secure the gather.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Microscopic view of a linear polymer chain with repeating units (no text or symbols visible)

	prog
a	M	Stretch	6	●	3-5	0/1
b	M	Stretch	6	-	3-5	0

Gathering with elastic threads

Gathering sleeves or waist seams is no problem at all with elastic threads. The elastic thread must not be wound onto the bobbin.

• Mark the first gathering seam on the reverse side of the fabric.
• Make a few starting stitches using program M, then leave the needle down in the fabric. The needle must be at the middle of the sewing foot. Raise the sewing foot and place the elastic thread around the needle.
• Lower the sewing foot again and sew a few more stitches, but do not pull the ends of the elastic thread until these are sewn.
• From then on you determine the amount of gather by the amount you pull on the elastic thread.
• After sewing you can still change the amount of gather by pulling both elastic threads.
• Finally, knot the threads and the elastic.

TIP: The cording foot (special accessory) is also ideal for gathering. The grooves in this foot guide the elastic evenly during the sewing operation.

Technical diagram of a sewing machine with labeled parts and assembly views

	prog
a	G	-	-	○	2-3	6
b	G	-	-	-	2-3	specialaccession

Darning with the straight stitch

Insert the darning foot:

Set the needle at its highest position and push the pin of the darning foot fully into hole C. When you do this, guide fork G places itself around the presser bar. Wire E must be behind fixing screw F. Now tighten screw D.

Darning position:

Lower the presser bar lifter and push it lightly to the rear. This positions the presser bar lifter into notch E (darning position).

• Place the darning work in the darning hoop.
• Lower the feed dog.
• Draw up the bobbin thread and hold the threads when you start sewing.
• Darn over the damaged area by moving the part evenly in the required direction. When doing so, move the part in shallow curves. This prevents tearing of the darn later.
• When you have stitched evenly over the darning area, turn the fabric by 90 degrees and darn over the damaged area again.

You determine the stitch length for this work yourself, by moving the part back and forth.

TIP: If small knots appear on the reverse side, this means you have been moving the part too slowly.

Pure diagram of a spring border with no text, numbers, or symbols

	prog
a	M	0.2·1	6		3·5	0·1
b	M	0.2·1	6		3·5	0

	prog
a	M	0.2-15	6		3-5	0/1
b	M	0.2-15	6		3-5	0

Darning with elastic stitch

Darning with elastic stitch is also a very suitable means of repairing damaged fabric.

- Sew over the damaged area with rows of stitches until it is well covered. When doing so, make sure the stitch rows overlap each other.

Sewing on patches

The best way to darn larger holes is to cover the damaged area with a piece of new material.

• Baste the piece of new material onto the damaged area from the face side.
• Overstitch its edges with elastic stitch.
• Now cut back the damaged material up to the seam on the reverse side.

TIP: In order to turn at the corners more easily with model 6230, use the "needle down" function.

Scanned text of a document with vertical Chinese characters, likely from a legal or official form.

For tears, frayed edges or smaller holes it is easier to place a piece of material on the reverse side of the fabric. This strengthens the fabric and provides a much better darn.

• Place a piece of material on the reverse side of the fabric. The piece must always be a little bigger than the damaged area.
• Now overstitch the damaged area by the length of the tear.
• Cut back the material on the reverse side close to the edge.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and base mount (no text or symbols)

	prog		>	-	-	-
a	G	3	-	●	3-5	4
b	G	3	-	-	3-5	4

Sewing in zippers

There are different ways to sew in zippers. For skirts we recommend inserting the zipper concealed on both sides, and for men's or ladies' slacks concealed on one side. Different types of zippers are available in shops and stores. For tough materials such as denim we recommend metal zippers, and plastic zippers for all other materials.

For all types of zippers it is important to sew right up close to the teeth of the zipper. This is why the zipper foot can be engaged in the foot holder to the left or right, depending on the method of insertion.

Using one of the three needle positions you can also set the needle so that it enters close to the edge of the zipper teeth. If the sewing foot is engaged on the right side, the needle position must only be changed to the right. If the foot is engaged left, the needle must only be moved to the left.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and foot (no text or symbols)

Inserting zippers concealed on both sides

• Engage the zipper foot to the right side.
• Place the zipper under the sewing foot so that the teeth run at the side of the foot.
• Sew in half of the zipper, leave the needle in the material, raise the sewing foot and close the zipper.
• Now you can sew the rest of the seam to the end of the zipper and stitch the cross-wise seam.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and chain assembly (no text or symbols)

• Sew the second half of the zipper parallel at the same distance.
• Stop shortly before the end of the seam and leave the needle in the material. Raise the sewing foot and open the zipper.
• You can now sew to the end of the seam.

Technical diagram of a sewing machine with labeled parts A and B, showing mechanical components and assembly lines.

Trouser zippers

• Iron the seam margin over, making sure there is an overlap of about (5/32") 4 mm.
• Baste the zipper under the overlapping edge so that the teeth are still visible.
• Engage the zipper foot on the right and set the needle at the required position.
• Stitch close along the edge of the zipper.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and fabric (no text or symbols)

• Shortly before the end of the seam, open the zipper and finish sewing the seam.
• Close the zipper and baste the overlap evenly onto the other zipper half.
• Afterwards stitch along the basted seam.
  TIP: To achieve accurate seams we recommend using the edge guide.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

	prog
a	G	3	-	○	3-5	7
b	G	3	-	-	3-5	specialaccessory

Black-and-white photo of a vintage sewing machine on a boat, no visible text or symbols

Roll hemming

With the hemmer you can rollhem blouses, silk fabrics or valances with no problem at all and without having to iron the edges beforehand. Hemming secures the edges against fraying and produces a tidy and durable edge finish.

• Fold the fabric edge over double (about (5/64") 2 mm per fold).
• Place the folded fabric edge under the hemmer and sew a few stitches.
• Leave the needle in the material. Raise the sewing foot and push the fabric into the scroll of the hemmer.
• Lower the sewing foot and guide the fabric edge evenly in the hemer. When doing so, make sure the fabric does not run under the right side of the sewing foot.

Black-and-white photo of a mechanical device with gears and a ladder, no visible text or symbols

TIP: For silk, viscose or chiffon materials a rolled hem looks better with zigzag stitches.

Abstract black-and-white pattern with diagonal bands and dot textures (no text or symbols)

	prog
a	G	2.5	-	●	3-5	0/1
b	G	2.5	-	-	3-5	0

Close-up of a decorative floral pattern with interlaced motifs (no text or symbols)

Lace inserts

You can produce a beautiful effect on christening wear or other children's clothes with lace inserts.

• First baste the lace to the face side of the fabric.
• Stitch both edges of the lace with a narrow margin.
• Cut open the fabric under the lace at the middle and iron it over to the side.
• Stitch over both edges of the lace with small and dense zigzag stitches.
• Cut back the waste material.

Lace edges

Lace trimmings provide many new ways of designing and enhancing home textiles.

This is the way to do it:

• First serge the raw edges.
• Stitch the lace onto the face side up to the first corner.
• Fold the corner and stitch over it diagonally.
• All other sides are done in the same way.

Decorative corner frame with white floral patterns on a dark textured background (no text or symbols)

Scanned text of contract clauses with a horizontal line and handwritten signature

	prog		>
a	K	1.5	4.5	●	4-5	0/1
b	K	1.5	4.5	-	4-5	0

Shell edging

Shell edging is very effective for thin, soft fabrics such as silk and viscose materials. It is frequently used as an edge finish on underwear, too. The tighter you set the needle thread tension the farther the shell edging is pulled in.

• Serge the raw edge and iron the seam margin over to the left.
• While sewing, make sure that the fabric runs under the sewing foot at half the foot width, only. This provides a more prominent shell edging effect.

TIP: If you add a coloured wool thread at the edge you can strengthen the shell edging and obtain a pretty contrast at the same time. Instead of a woollen thread you can also place a different coloured light fabric underneath.

Black-and-white photo of a young girl sitting with hands clasped, wearing a black top with a teddy bear design (no text or symbols visible)

Decorative and traditional embroidery techniques

Sewing table for embroidery	page 60
Decorative stitches	page 61 - 64
Monograms	page 65
Appliqué	page 66
Richelieu	page 66
Quilting	page 67
Eyelet embroidery	page 68
Hemstitching	page 69

Decorative stitches

To enhance your own home textiles or garments the models 6150 and 6230 offer you a whole host of fancy and decorative stitches to choose from. You can produce even greater embroidery variations by selecting different combinations, colours or sizes. For embroidery work we recommend using special embroidery threads which are available from your Pfaff dealer.

For the parts to be embroidered you should either use an iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric. This prevents the material from contracting. You can mark out the embroidery pattern with a magic pen or marking chalk. These lines will dissolve after a few hours or can be ironed away. The following recommendations apply to all embroidery work:

	prog
a	-	-	-	○	2-3	Clear-viewfoot
b	-	-	-	-	2-3

The stitch length and width can be altered as desired.

Scanned text with two diagonal lines and Chinese characters, likely from a document or form.

Changing the pattern length

You can vary the pattern length infinitely with the aid of the stitch length knob. The stitch density for embroidery is generally in the buttonhole range. The larger the stitch density you set is, the farther the pattern is stretched apart.

Three diagonal lines with arrowheads, no text or symbols present

Changing the pattern width

The machine automatically sets a stitch width of 6 mm for the fancy stitches. If you wish to alter the width select key G at the same time. All the stitches are now reduced by half i.e. reduced to a width of 3 mm.

Diagram of a polymer chain with repeating units and spherical particles (no text or labels)

Scanned text of dense Chinese characters, likely from a historical or literary manuscript

Borders

By combining different embroidery programs you can embroider borders of any width. Madeira embroidery threads are very suitable. They are available in many colour shades and different sizes. However, only use one thread size for one piece of embroidery work.

• Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric.
• Embroider over the marked middle point with program Y/F. After that, turn the fabric and sew the border back again in reverse.
• Embroider stitch U parallel to it.
• Finally, add program X to every fifth zigzag point.

In this border embroidery example multi-coloured embroidery thread is used as an additional effect.

• Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric.
• Embroider over the marked middle with program M/D/F. Then turn the fabric and sew the border back again in reverse.
• Embroider program U/G parallel to it.
• You can now stitch the straight row with program D/E and the final zigzag row with program U/F.

Repeating zigzag pattern with no text or symbols

Borders with a combination of stitches

By combining different embroidery keys as desired you can easily achieve other embroidered effects. This is a simple and pleasing way to embellish tablecloths and garments.

• Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric.
• Mark the centre with tailor's chalk.
• You can now begin with the combination M/F Stretch. Embroider along the marked line. Then turn the fabric and embroider back down the border in reverse.
• Then sew close to the first border with the combination L/G/K Stretch.
• L/E Stretch completes the border.

Pure electrical circuit lines without any symbols

Combinations with coloured thread

An additional effect can be produced with different coloured thread. Multicolour thread was used for the middle border in this example. You can obtain it in a great variety of shades from our PFAFF dealer.

• Apply iron-on backing or place silk backing paper under the fabric.
• Mark the middle with tailor's chalk.
• You can now begin with the combination M/F Stretch. Embroider along the marked line. Then turn the fabric and embroider back down the border in reverse.
• Then sew close to the first border with the combination L/G/K Stretch.
• L/E Stretch completes the border.

Scanned page of dense Chinese text, likely from a historical or literary manuscript, with vertical columns and footnotes.

Twin needle

You can achieve further embroidery effects by using the twin needle. The illustrations show what beautiful borders can be made with a little imagination.

Note:

Only use a twin need with a width of 2.5 mm for all embroidery.

Technical diagram showing mechanical assembly with labeled parts and dimension lines

Threading the twin needle

• Insert the twin needle.
• Fit the second reel holder and place one reel of thread on each holder.
• In the left threading slot (17) you will find tension disk C. While threading, make sure that you pass one thread left and one thread right over tension disk C.
• Place the threads farther than normal, but make sure the threads are not twisted with each other.
• Pull the threads right and left into thread guide (32) and thread the needles.

Abstract wavy line drawing with no text or symbols

E

Monograms

No matter whether you work on terry cloth or woven fabric, with the darning foot and programs D, E or F you can monogram any initials of your own design.

Freehand guiding, however, needs a little practice in the beginning.

• Transfer the initials with the magic pen to the part to be embroidered.
• Lower the feed dog and insert the darning foot (see page 51).
  — Place a piece of Avalon on the fabric.
• Tauten the part in an embroidery hoop and embroider it with the zigzag stitch. Do not forget to use the darning position.
  — Knot the threads and pull off the Avalon. (Any waste is dissolved in water).

TIP: If you sew fast but move the material slowly, the stitches will be made dense.

On terry cloth the monogram must first be presewn with narrow zigzag stitches and then oversewn with a wider zigzag stitch. This makes sure the terry cloth loops are properly covered.

Block capitals are a little easier to embroider. The feed dog does not need to be lowered, i.e. no freehand guiding is required. All you have to do is stitch along the marked lines using programs D, E or F.

• Apply iron-on backing or place paper underneath.
• Mark the monogram on the fabric.
• Now embroider the marked lines with the zigzag stitch.

Illustration of a smiling cartoon character sitting on grass with leaves and flowers (no text or symbols)

Abstract black-and-white silhouette of a human head and shoulders (no text or symbols)

Appliqué work

Appliqués are quickly made and always produce a beautiful fancy effect. By using different materials and patterns you can obtain variations galore. You can make a perfect, densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot (special accessories), because it has a special cutout on its sole for the zigzag seam.

• Insert the appliqué foot in the sewing machine.
• Transfer your drafted pattern to the face side, smooth side, of the fusible backing fabric. Remember that any letters or numbers have to be drawn as a mirror image.
• Now iron the backing fabric onto the appli- qué material. Cut the motif out and pull the paper off.
• Place and iron on the appliqué parts on the base material.
• Afterwards overstitch all contours with narrow and dense zigzag stitches D or E. Also make sure the needle passes the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later.

Richelieu

This very artistic form of bar and eyelet embroidery is easy to make with your sewing machine.

• Transfer your pattern onto the face side of the fabric using the magic pen.
• Then place two plies of embroidery Avalon backing under the area to be embroidered and tauten the fabric and backing in an embroidery hoop.
• Insert foot number 0.
• To make the embroidery more stable, sew around all contours double with a straight stitch of approx. 1 mm length.
• After that, carefully cut out the fabric from the areas that will form the cutouts at about 2 mm along their contours, but do not cut away the backing material.
• Embroider the contours with a dense zigzag stitch.
• The backing material provides this part of the work with much more shape and stability.
• Finally, all you have to do is dissolve the Avalon embroidery backing in water, and your piece of individually made embroidery is ready.

Black-and-white photograph of a textured, geometric object resembling a stylized animal or artifact (no visible text or symbols)

Abstract black-and-white geometric composition with triangular shapes and textured textures (no text or symbols)

Quilting

Quilting is a traditional sewing technique. The method that the wives of American settlers developed to make use of material remnants has become an artistic hobby with many enthusiasts in our country, too.

A quilt always consists of three layers of material. Lots of geometrically shaped pieces of material are joined together in continually changing patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is tacked onto the middle layer made of polyester padding and connected to the back layer of the quilt that usually consists of one uniform piece of material. The entire quilt is often also bordered with the back layer.

Of course, the work of piecing the individual bits of material together must be very precise. The Dual Feed is of particular assistance when doing this.

And this is what you do:

• Cut out the parts of your quilt with templates you have bought or made yourself. A seam allowance of 0.7 cm should already be included in the templates.
• Spread out the parts as in the pattern and form small squares that you can match together. These squares are then sewn together to form the surface of the quilt.
• The seam allowances of quilts are not serged up but just smoothed out - never ironed!
• In traditional quilts these three layers of material are sewn together by hand with small stitches - but it is quicker and more practical with the sewing machine e.g. with the program ID stretch or L stretch. There is always stitching about 3 mm beside the seam. Embroidered stitches look very good on plain coloured material. Use foot number 0 for this work.

When your quilt is finished you can make it into cushions, wall hangings or bed covers.

A

Black-and-white photo of traditional tea set with teapot, cups, and saucer (no visible text or symbols)

Eyelet embroidery

Traditional eyelet embroidery which long ago had to be made laboriously by hand can be made quite easily with the help of an eyelet plate (special accessory).

This is very effective on blouses, bed or table linen. Practically all stitch types are suitable for this: utility stitches such as a zigzag stitch, blind stitch, elastic stitch or fancy stitches (Models 6150, 6230).

For classic eyelet embroidery, program E or F are very suitable.

• Remove the sewing foot.
• Set the presser bar lifter in darning position (see page 51).
• Place the eyelet plate on the needle plate, making sure pin A fits in the middle cutout of the needle plate. Then push the plate down at the front.
• Place the marked fabric taut in an embroidery hoop. Cut one or two of the fabric threads and push the fabric over the pin in the eyelet plate. The fabric must fit snugly around the pin.
• Draw up the bobbin thread and hold it for the first few stitches.
• You can now stitch around the cut with the selected program. By doing this it is important to turn the fabric slowly and evenly. The stitches should be very close to each other.
• Afterwards secure with straight stitches.

TIP: If you choose another program, e.g. a fancy stitch with model 6150 or 6230 or a blind stitch, the cut will only be partly stitched around, or not at all. To complete this, just select key A afterwards and stitch evenly around the cut.

Close-up of a coiled spring with uniform helix pattern (no text or symbols)

Hemstitching

Hemstitching is an old embroidery technique and can be used for securing edges of table linen and as a fancy effect on garments. For hemstitching you need a wing needle and coarseweave fabric on which you can draw single threads easily. Embroidering and darning thread is very suitable. With stretch zigzag stitch D you can produce hemstitching with different techniques, such as fagoting, a hem sewn as a hemstitch seam and hemstitching as an edge finish.

Use foot number 0.

Fagoting:

• As in hand hemstitching draw the threads in the required width.
• Embroider along both fabric edges with stretch zigzag stitch D. When you do this the needle must enter closely at the side of the edges into the drawn threads; this will bunch the threads.

Close-up of a textured fabric with repeating pattern and central dark band (no visible text or symbols)

Making a hem with a hemstitch seam

• Iron the hem over twice and pull out one or more threads above the hem.
• Stitch along the hem with program D stretch from the face side. When you do this the needle must enter the hem to the right and tie off the pulled threads to the left.

Scanned text of a dense, low-resolution document with dense columns of illegible text.

Hemstitching as an edge finish

This edge finish is used for very light and thin materials. It is very suitable for frills or ruffles. There is no need to pull any threads.

• Sew using program D stretch at foot width along the edge of the fabric.
• Cut off the protruding fabric at the hem-stitched edge with a small pair of scissors.

Black-and-white photo of various vintage mechanical tools and components laid out on a surface, including a tool holder, gear, and clamps (no visible text or labels)

Accessories and needles

Sewing feet (normal accessories) pages 72, 73

Special accessory table page 74

Felling foot page 75

Gathering foot page 75

Cording foot page 76

Bias binder page 77

Multistitch gatherer page 77

Cording foot page 78

Appliqué foot page 78

Fringe foot page 79

Needle table pages 80, 81

Top-down view of a car chassis on a plain surface (no visible text or symbols)

Sewing feet (accessories)

0 Normal sewing foot

Part No. 98-694 816-00

(Model 6120 - 6230)

Part No. 98-694 847-00

(Modell 6110)

Close-up of a mechanical component with internal parts, possibly a tool or device (no visible text or symbols)

1 Fancy stitch foot for top feed

Part No. 98-694 814-00

(Model 6120 - 6230)

NO ON#6110

Close-up of a mechanical component with no visible text or symbols

1 Clear view foot 0150

(Fancy stitch foot not suitable for top feed)

Part No. 98-694 864-00

(Model 6110 - 6230)

WILL NOT FIT TRAY

(PUT UNDERNETH)

Close-up of a mechanical component with no visible text or symbols

98-694897-69

1. FEET - Does Her I think through Acc.

w/machines. Foot special

TRAY HAS A #3 SET ACCESSORY

3 Blind stitch and overlock foot

Part No. 98-694 890-00

(Model 6120 - 6230)

Part No. 98-694 845-00

(Model 6110)

Two black mechanical components with no visible text or symbols on the parts themselves.

4 Zipper and edge sewing foot

Part No. 98-694 884-00

(Model 6120 - 6230)

Part No. 98-694 843-00

(Model 6110)

Pure electrical circuit lines without any symbols

Sewing feet (accessories)

5 Buttonhole foot

Part No. 98-694882-00

(Model 6110 - 6230)

Black and white photo of a mechanical component or tool (no visible text or symbols)

6 Darning foot

Part No. 93-035 960-91

(Model 6110 - 6230)

For Model 6110 special accessory

Close-up of a mechanical component with no visible text or symbols

7 Hemmer

Part No. 98 694818-00

(Model 6110 - 6230)

For Model 6110 special accessory

Simple line drawing of a bent pipe or rod (no text or symbols)

8 Edge guide

Part No. 98-802422-00

(Model 6110 - 6230)

Three white cylindrical objects with black caps and a small black-and-white illustration, arranged horizontally (no text or symbols visible)

Second spool holder 93-03.3063-44

Seam ripper

Brush

Oil tube

A##lray-43-036081-44

Sewing feet (special accessory)

Special accessories are intended for special sewing work. They are available at a charge from your dealer.

Accessory	Part number	Sewing work
Applique foot	93-042941-91	For applique work
Bias binder (remove foot holder)	98-053484-91	For binding edges with bias tape
Cording foot, 5 grooves (twin needles with needle spacing 1.6 to 2.0)	93-042950-91	For cording work (needle size 80)
Cording foot, 7 grooves (twin needles with needle spacing 1.6 to 2.0)	93-042953-91
Cording tongue (2)	93-035952-45
Fringe foot	93-042943-91	For sewing loop embroidery
Straight stitch foot with round hole	98-694821-00	Caution! Only use straight stitch in middle needle position!
Needle plate with round hole	98-694822-00	For top-stitching seams and sewing very light and soft materials (silk jersey, etc.)
Lap-feller, 4.5 mm	93-042946-91	For lap-feller seams
Lap-feller, 6.5 mm	93-042948-91	For lap-feller seams
Gathering foot	93-036998-91	For gathering frills, etc.
Multistitch gathering foot (remove foot holder)	98-999650-00	For placing dense or loose pleats on frills, etc.
Cording foot	93-036915-91	For cording
Eyelet plate	93-036976-45	For eyelet embroidery
Roll hemmer, 2 mm	98-694873-00	For hemming edges
Hemmer, 4 mm (for top feed) Hemmer (not for top feed 6110)	98-694823-00 98-694818-00	For hemming edges For hemming edges
Knit edge foot	93-042957-91	For sewing knitted fabrics
Darning foot (model 6110)	93-035960-91	For darning damaged parts
Teflon foot	93-036917-91	For sewing leather and synthetics

The following pages contain application examples of some special accessories.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

	prog
a	G	3	-	○	3-5	lap-feller
b	G	3	-	-	3-5

	prog
a	G	3	-	○	3-5	gathering foot
b	G	3	-	-	3-5

Lap-feller

Lap-feller seams are not only ornamental but strong, too. This makes them very suitable for sportswear and children's wear, men's shirts and jeans. You can make these seams very effective if you use a sewing thread of a contrasting colour.

• Place the fabric reverse side to reverse side.
• Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply by about 3/8" to 5/8".
• Now place this overlapping edge over the tongue of the lap-felling foot. The fabric must be placed fully under the sewing foot.
• Sew along the folded edge with straight stitch.
• Afterwards separate the fabric and feed the protruding hem into the lap-feller. The hem is turned over by the foot and is over-stitched along the edge. Pull the two fabric plies apart during sewing.

Gathering foot

Beautiful gathering effects, e.g. on children's wear or curtains, can be made quickly and easily with the gathering foot. Gathering by hand is no longer necessary.

• Engage the gathering foot by hooking the rear bar of the foot into the rear groove of the foot holder. Push the foot upwards until it snaps into the front bar.
• Place the fabric to be gathered under the sewing foot, and the gatherfree fabric from the top through the foot cutout. The fabric parts lie face side to face side.
• While stitching you must pull the top fabric a little. The harder you pull, the greater the gathering effect you achieve.
• Be sure you guide the fabric edges evenly through the foot.
• Disengage the gathering foot by pushing it down at the front, and take it out to the back over the groove of the sewing foot holder.

TIP: You can also regulate the amount of gather by adjusting the needle thread tension and the stitch length.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

	prog
a	G	2,5	-	0	5	cording foot
b	G	2,5	-	-	5

Cording foot

The classic sewing technique of cording can be used without any problems on fabrics such as cotton and light wollens. Underclothing and children's wear can be given a traditional look with cording.

• Engage the cording foot.
• Replace the needle with a twin needle (1.6 or 2 mm).
• Thread up with two needle threads (see page 64).
• Now set the needle thread tension quite tight (at about 5), to make the seam more prominent.

TIP: If you wish to emphasize the cording effect, you can fit a "cording tongue" on the front edge of the needle plate. This shapes the fabric during sewing and gives the cording more volume.

You can obtain a similar effect by using a gimp thread; this makes the cording look wider.

In this case, however, do not use a cording tongue.

• To do this, remove the needle plate.
• Thread the gimp thread through the hole of the needle plate from below to the top.
• Replace the needle plate. The notch between the needle plate and the sewing machine provides space for the gimp thread. This thread must be fed under the cloth plate, so that it does not become tangled during sewing.
• During sewing the cording pull the material lightly.
• You can use the grooves in the cording foot to guide the work along an already sewn cording seam. This ensures that the distance between cording seams is always constant.

TIP: There are two different cording feet: a five groove and a seven groove foot (see table on page 74).

With the seven groove foot the sewn cordings are closer together than with the five groove foot.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a mechanical assembly with hands operating a vehicle (no visible text or symbols)

	prog
a	G	2,5	-	○	3-5	bias tape hinder
b	G	2,5	-	-	3-5

	prog
a	G	3	-	○	3-5	multi-stitch-gathering foot
b	G	3	-	-	3-5

Bias tape binder

Binding with bias tape is a very easy method of giving fabric edges a smooth and neat appearance. For this you need unfolded bias tape about an inch wide.

• Remove the foot holder with sewing foot and screw on the binder.
• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at a diagonal.
• Push the tape into the scroll of the binder and pull it out to the back.
• Adjust the binder so that the needle enters at about 1/16" from the folded edge of the bias tape, or adjust the needle position.
• Stitch about an inch or so along the bias tape before you insert the edge to be bound into the slot of the binder. The raw edge must be placed between the bias tape edges. During sewing, the bias tape will enclose the raw edge automatically.

TIP: You can obtain an additional effect by using zigzag stitch or a fancy stitch.

Multistitch gathering foot

This is a really classic sewing foot! You can make closely or widely spaced pleats as if by magic.

The multistitch gathering foot can be used in three different ways:

1. Folding the fabric in pleats.
2. Folding the fabric in pleats and sewing them on in one operation.
3. Folding the fabric in pleats, sewing them on and sewing on lace at the same time.

When you buy the multistitch gathering foot from your PFAFF dealer, full operating instructions are included.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

	prog
a	C	0.35-1	1.5-2		3	cording foot
b	C	0.35-1	1.5-2	-	3

	prog
a	D E	0.35-1	2		2 3	appliquéfoot
b	D E	0.35 1	2	-	2 3

Cording foot

Cording is a technique in which pearl thread or a fine cord is overstitched to produce a purl seam. With this you can obtain an effect similar to braiding. Appliqués can also be made more effective with this seam.

• Mark the required motif on the fabric, avoiding too tight curves or angles if possible.
• Engage the cording foot and place the filling thread in one of the front grooves of the foot, then place the filling thread in the back groove under the foot shoe.
• Now overstitch the filling thread with narrow and dense zigzag stitches. Now you have made a socalled purl seam.

TIP: You can also obtain a special effect by overstitching a medium pearl thread with a thread of a different colour.

Appliqué foot

Appliqués are quickly made and always produce a beautiful fancy effect. By using different materials and patterns you can obtain variations galore. You can make a perfect, densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot, because it has a special cutout on its sole for the zigzag seam.

• Insert the appliqué foot in the sewing machine.
• Transfer your drafted pattern to the face side, smooth side, of the fusible backing fabric. Remember that any letters or numbers have to be drawn in mirrored fashion.
• Now iron the backing fabric onto the appliqué material. Cut the motif out and pull the paper off.
• Place and iron on the appliqué parts on the base material.
• Afterwards overstitch all contours with narrow and dense zigzag stitches. When you reach a curve, use the "needle down" (Model 6230) function to help you guide the work more easily. Also make sure the needle passes the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

	prog
a	D	0,35-1	2	○	2-3	fringe foot
b	D	0,35-1	2	-	2-3

Fringe foot

With this special foot for loop embroidery you can produce fantastic effects in no time. This foot is very useful for terry cloth.

• Mark out any pattern you wish with the magic pen.
• Use a silk paper underlay and engage the fringe foot.
• Embroider the motif, row by row. For circles you have to work from the outside inward.
• For thicker threads you may have to choose a longer stitch length; it is best to sew a test seam first.
• When you have finished, pull the work out of the machine carefully, because if you pull too fast, you will pull the last loops tight.
• Knot the threads on the reverse side.

Needle chart

Selection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material.

Fabric weightlight needle 60 70 75		Fabric weightmedium needle 80 90		Fabric weightheavy needle 100 110 120
Needle points
Type	Shape	Type of eye and point	Suitable for
130/705H Needle size: 70/80		Small ball point	Universal needle for fine synthetic wovens, fine linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy, wool fabrics, velvet, fancy seams and embroidery
130/705 H-SUK Needle size: 70/110		Medium ball point	Openknits, warpknits, lastex, interlock, Quiana, Simplex
130/705 H-PS Needle size: 75 + 90		Medium ball point	Special Pfaff stretch fabric needle, very suitable for delicate stretch and warp-knits
130/705 H-SKF Needle size 70/110		Large ball point	Open corsetry fabrics, Lycra, Simplex, Lastex
130/705 H-J Needle size: 90-110		Sharp round point	Twill, workwear, heavy linen fabrics, blue jeans, light sailcloth
130/705 H-LR Needle size: 70-120	·	Narrow twist point (right)	Leather, suede, calf and goatskin
130/705 H-PCL Needle size: 80-110	·	Narrow wedge point with left twist groove	Imitation leather, plastics, foils and oilcloth
130 H-N Needle size 70-110		Light ball point with long eye	Topstitching with buttonhole silk or synthetic threads, 30/3
130/705 H-WING Needle size: 100		Hemstitching point	Effective hemstitch seams on heavily dressed materials, organdy and glass cambric

Needle Table

	Description	Stitch length	Stitch width	Needle distance	suitable for
	130/705 H-ZWI Size: 80	2,5 mm2,5 mm	--	1,6 mm2,0 mm	normal cording normal cording
	130/705 H-ZWI Size: 80Size: 90Size: 100	2,5 mm2,5 mm3,0 mm	--	2,5 mm3,0 mm4,0 mm	wide cording extra wide cording
Fancy pattern with twin needles Before you sew the desired ornamentation, turn the hand wheel to check whether the needles sew through the fabric correctly. In this way needle breakage can generally be avoided.
	Fancy stitch/zigzag patterns
	130/705 H-ZWI Size: 80Size: 80Size: 80	0,5 - 1,5 mm0,5 - 1,5 mm0,5 - 1,5 mm	widethinthin	1,6 mm2,0 mm2,5 mm	ornamentation ornamentation ornamentation
	Hemming/special double needle
	130/705 H-ZWI-HO Size: 80Size: 100	2,3 - 3,0 mm2,0 - 3,0 mm	very thin very thin	--	decorative hemming effect - fabrics and glass batiste are particularly suitable

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Maintenance and fault-finding

Changing the needle plate Page 84

Cleaning and oiling Page 84

Changing the sewing lamp Page 85

Sewing problems and their solution Page 86

Close-up of a hand using a tool to test a small electronic component (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a mechanical device with a circular component and internal components (no visible text or symbols)

Changing the needle plate

It is very important to clean and oil the sewing machine, because it will reward you with a longer service life. The more often you use the machine, the more care it needs.

Removal:

Switch off the main switch

• Raise the sewing foot and remove the detachable work support.
• Push the point of a small screwdriver into the opening between needle plate and sewing machine. Twist it lightly to the right and the needle plate will snap half way out of its mounting. Now push the screwdriver into the left opening and take the needle plate out.

Replacing

- Place the needle plate flat at the back and push it down with both hands at the front until you hear it snap in place. Before you start sewing, check that the needle plate is lying flat.

Cleaning and oiling

Switch off the main switch

• Remove the needle plate and lower the feed dog.
• Clean the feed dog and hook area with the brush.
• Then apply a drop of oil (every 15 to 20 hours of operation) to the hook. You can see where to apply the oil in the illustration and on the oil bottle supplied.

The machine is otherwise maintenance-free and must not be oiled.

Black-and-white photo of a person aiming a rifle from behind, with no visible text or symbols

Changing the sewing lamp Switch off the main switch

• Disconnect the mains plug and the foot control plug from the machine.
• Take off the detachable work support.

The sewing lamp (bulb) is located inside the needle head of the sewing machine.

Hand inserting a small electronic device into a machine (no visible text or symbols)

Removal

To make it easier to change the bulb we recommend placing the sewing machine on the hand wheel as illustrated.

• Hold the sewing machine tightly.
• Push the bulb into its holder as far as it will go, and turn it anticlockwise to remove it.

Insertion

• Insert the bulb in the diagonal holder and turn it so that both stops of the bulb engage.
• Now push the bulb fully into the holder and turn it clockwise so that it is held firmly.

Important!

The maximum permissible bulb wattage is 15 Watts!

Sewing problems and their solutions

Problem/cause:	Remedy:
1. The machine skips stitches
Needle is not properly inserted.	Push needle fully upwards, flat side facing the back
Wrong needle is in use.	Use needle system 130/705 H.
Needle is bent or blunt.	Insert a new needle
Machine is not properly threaded.	Check how machine is threaded
Needle is too small for thread.	Use a larger needle
2. Needle thread breaks
See reasons above.	See above.
Thread tension is too tight.	Adjust thread tension
Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has become dry after toolong storage.	Only use good threads
Thread is too thick.	Use needle with large eye (System 130 N).
3. Needle breaks off
Needle is not pushed fully in.	Insert new needle and push fully in.
Needle is bent.	Insert new needle
Needle is too thick or too thin.	See needle chart (page 80, 81).
Needle is bent, and has hit the needle plate because you are pulling or pushing the fabric.	Let the machine feed the fabric. Only guide the fabric lightly.
The bobbin case is not properly inserted.	When you insert the bobbin case, push it fully into the stop.
4. Seam is sewn unevenly
The tension needs adjusting.	Check top and bottom tensions.
Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard.	Only use perfect threads
The bobbin thread is unevenly wound.	Do not wind thread free-hand, but run it on through the winding tension.
Thread tangling at top or bottom side of fabric.	Thread up correctly. Check needle and bobbin thread tensions.
5. Machine does not feed or feeds irregularly
Sewing lint has collected between the feed dog teeth rows.	Remove needle plate, remove lint with brush.
Feed dog is lowered, slide B (see page 27 is at right.	Push slide B (see page 27) to left.
6. The machine is running with difficulty
There are thread remnants in the hook race.	Remove the threads and apply a drop of oil to the hook.

Black-and-white illustration of a woman in a long-sleeve coat standing on fabric (no text or symbols visible)

Black-and-white photo of a woman in formal attire, smiling and posing with hands on hips (no text or symbols visible)

PFAFF

G. M. Pfaff

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