select 1540 - Sewing machine PFAFF - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL select 1540 PFAFF

Parts of your select sewing machine

1 Connection socket "foot control with main cord"
2 Main switch
3 Handwheel release disk
4 Handwheel
5 Bobbin winder
6 Lid with stitches
7 Extra spool holder
8 Spool holder with spool cap
9 Take-up lever
10 Needle thread tension dial
11 Threading path
12 Thread cutter
13 Needle threader (1540)
14 Presser foot holder with presser foot
15 Removable accessory tray
16 Base plate
17 IDT System / Integrated Dual Feed (1540/1530)
18 Needle holder with fi xing screw
19 Presser foot lifter
20 Button for "reverse sewing"
21 Stitch length dial
22 Stitch selection 1540
23 Carrying handle
24 Stitch selection 1530 & 1520
25 Thread guide
26 Sewing lamp (max. 15 watt)
27 Stitch width dial
28 Needle position dial
29 Needle plate

Blank white image with no visible content, text, or symbols

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

For the United States only

When you use an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be adhered to as follows: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning it.
2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4. Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.
2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to off ("O") position, then remove plug, not the cord.
9. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked.
10. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
11. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
12. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
13. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Use needles recommended by the manufacturer only.
14. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
15. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
16. Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
17. Hold plug when rewinding into cord reel. Do not allow plug to whip when rewinding.

Please also observe the general safety notes on opposite page.

This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Contents

Accessories and needles 55-56

Accessory tray 3

Appliqué 51

Appliqué foot 62

Bias-tape binder 61

Blind stitch 25

Bobbin case 8-9

Buttonholes 33,

Changing the needle plate 68

Changing the needle 15

Cleaning and oiling 68

Closed overlock stitch 29

Cording foot 62

Covering stitch 30-31

Darning with the elastic stitch 38

Darning with the straight stitch 37

Darning 37-38

Decorative sewing 47-54

Drawing up the bobbin thread 12

Dropping the feed dog 15

Elastic stitch 27

Elastic stitches 26-29

Electrical connection 2

Embroidering with a dense zigzag stitch 48-51

Eyelet embroidery 52

Feather stitch 30

Felling foot 59

Free arm 3

Fringe foot 63

Gathering foot 59

Gathering with elastic thread 36

Gathering with the straight stitch 36

General information on sewing 23

Handwheel release disk 4

Hemming with the twin needle 35

Hemstitch seam 54

Honeycomb stitch 27

51

Inserting lace 43

Integrated Dual feed / IDT 14

Left needle position 16

Main switch 2

Maintenance and trouble-shooting 67-70

Monograms 48

Needle table 64-65

Needle thread tension 15,23

Needle threader 11

Non-elastic stitches 24-25

Oiling the sewing machine 68

Open overlock stitch 28

Optional accessories 58-66

Overlock stitches 28-29

Patchwork quilt 53

Pennant stitch 31

Placing sewing thread on spool holder 5

Practical sewing 21-44

Presser foot lifter 13

Pullover stitch 29

Pushbutton controls 18

Quilt and patchwork foot 63

Quilting 53,

Removable accessory tray 3

Removing the presser foot 13

Repairing tears 38

Reverse sewing 17

Richelieu 52

Right needle position 16

Ruffler 61

Selecting needle position 16

Selecting stitch width 16

Serging with blindstitch and overlock stitch 25, 28-29

Serging with zigzag stitch 24

Setting stretch stitches 17-19

Setting utility stitches 17-19

Sewing light 69

Sewing on buttons 34

Sewing on patches 38

Sewing on zippers 40-41

Sewing table Introduction

Shirring foot 79

Shell-edging 44

Smocking 35

Special accessories table 58

Stabilizing edges 42

Standard buttonhole 33

Standard buttonhole with gimp thread 33

Stitch density 17

Stitch length adjustment dial 17

Stitch selection dial 19

Straight stitch 24

Stretch triple straight stitch 26

Stretch triple zigzag stitch 26

Tapering 49-51

Thread tension 63 15

Thread cutter 12

Threading the upper thread 10

Top feed (Integrated Dual Feed) 14

Top-stitching 23

Trouble-shooting 70

Twin needle 11,35

Utility stitch table Introduction

Winding from the second spool holder 6

Winding the bobbin 4-7

Winding through the needle 7

Zigzag stitch 24

Stitch table (non-elastic stitches)

A S S C S 0/2 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/2 ...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h...h... h

select 1540

A5 B5 C5 B5 D5 F0/1 F0/1 F0/1 F0/1 F0 C0/1 H0/3 G0/1 K0/1

select 1530 & select 1520

Stitch

Description

Application

1540 1530/1520

A/B/C A/B/C Buttonhole Standard buttonhole for blouses or be linens

D H Blind stitch with zigzag For invisible hemming with simultaneous (elastic) seam/overcasting. Especially for stretch material

E – Greek stitch with zigzag A traditional decorative stitch e.g. for towel borders

F - Scallop stitch A traditional decorative stitch e.g. for embroidering blouses or table linens

G E

Straight stitch,

15 needle positions

Stitch width dial set at 0

Zigzag stitch,

15 needle positions, stitch

width dial set at 0.5 - 5

For all straight stitching and top-

stitching work up to 6 mm

For serging and appliqué. Also suitable for

tapering, eyelet embroidery and cording work

Left needle position

(for straight stitch

and zigzag stitch)

Straight stitch: For all sewing and top-stitching

operations which require a left needle position.

Zigzag stitch: For serging, appliqué and tapering.

Center needle position

Straight stitch: For most sewing and top-stitching

operations. Zigzag for most zigzag operations.

Right needle position

For all sewing and top-stitching operations which

(for straight stitch

require a right needle position. Zigzag stitch:

and zigzag stitch)

For serging, appliqué, tapering and cording work

H - Blind stitch

For invisible hemming on sturdier

materials

I – Greek stitch, wide

A traditional decorative stitch

K I Shell-edging stitch For decorative hem edges on light fabrics

e.g. lingerie

L - Fancy elastic stitch

For flat overlapped seams

M F Elastic stitch

For overcasting, sewing on elastic, darning tears

and inserting patches

Decorative stitch e.g. for household textiles

LC – Emperor stitch, narrow

A dainty decorative stitch

LG – Emperor stitch, wide

A dainty decorative stitch

LI K Greek stitch, narrow

A traditional decorative stitch

MDF - Decorative stitch

A traditional decorative stitch

- G Decorative stitch

Decorative stitch e.g. for quilting

Stitch table (stretch stitches)

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select 1540

stretch 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0 0/1 0/3 0/1 0/1

select 1530 & select 1520

Stitch Description Application

1540 1530/1520

D – Peacock's eye stitch Elastic closing and serging seam. The material must be turned by 180 degrees

E – Cover stitch For top-stitching and overstitching stretch materials, e.g. cuffs, hems and panels

F – Herringbone stitch A decorative stitch for top-stitching or whip-stitching hems, e.g. pajamas and sweatsuits

G E Stretch triple straight stitch, For stretch seams, e.g. inside seams as well as 15 needle positions seams on sportswear and workwear

Stretch triple zigzag stitch, For sewing elastic bands on elastic materials or 15 needle positions seams on stretch materials Stitch width knob 0.5 – 5

Left needle position (for stretch triple straight and zigzag stitches)

For elastic seams which require a left needle position

Center needle position

For elastic seams which require a center needle

(for stretch triple straight and position zigzag stitches)

Right needle position

For elastic seams which require a right needle

(for stretch triple straight position and zigzag stitches)

H – Pullover stitch Elastic closing and serging seams for jersey. The material must be turned by 180 degrees

I K Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for materials which fray easily

K I Open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for sturdy materials or materials which do not fray easily

L – Feather stitch For joining two finished edges with a gap between, e.g. hemstitching. Also for crazy quilting

M F Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic thread, overstitching terry cloth seams and for ornamental hem seams.

IG – Patent stitch A decorative stitch also used as a covering stitch

KM – Cord stitch A loose decorative stitch

- G Heavy open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam on heavy materials

- H Decorative stitch Embellishment

Stitch table (stretch stitches)

Image displaying a series of stylized white symbols on a dark background, possibly representing molecular or chemical structures.

select 1540

Stitch	Description	Application
1540	1530/1520
LC – Dutch stitch, narrow A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles
LD – Dutch stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles
LG – Border stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for traditional embroidery
LI – Weaving stitch An ornamental stitch, e.g. for bath accessories
EK – Spiral stitch A decorative stitch, e.g. for household textiles
EL – Diagonal coverstitch For top-stitching and overstitching stretch materials, i.e. cuffs, hems and panels
FG – Turkish stitch with zigzag A top-stitching seam for patchwork and quilting
ID – Branch stitch A decorative elastic stitch, e.g. for sportswear
IF – Floss stitch For whip-stitching hems, e.g. on pajamas and sweatsuits. The material must be turned by 180 degrees
LK – Diagonal stitch An elastic decorative stitch
LMK – Triangle stitch A decorative, elastic stitch
MG – Florentine stitch A stretch, decorative stitch

Operate your Pfaff select

Electrical connection 2

Removable accessory tray 3

Bobbins 4-7

Bobbin case 8-9

Threading the needle 10

Needle threader 11

Pulling up the bobbin thread 12

Presser foot lifter 13

Thread cutter 12

Changing the presser foot 13

IDT System/Integrated Dual Feed 14

Changing the needle 15

Needle thread tension 15

Lowering the feed dog 15

Stitch width dial 16

Needle position dial 16

Reverse sewing 17

Stitch length dial 17

Stitch selection 18-19

Exterior view of a modern sewing machine (PFAFF) with no visible text or symbols on its body.

White plastic electronic device with internal components, set against a blue gradient background (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a white sewing machine with 'PFAFF' branding and control buttons, against a blue background (no readable text beyond branding)

Close-up of a white electronic device connected to a power adapter, with a blue background (no visible text or symbols)

220 V 120 V

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fi t in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fi t fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fi t, contact a qualifi ed electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Carrying-case

Place the cords, foot control and instruction book in the compartment of the carrying-case

Top cover

Open the folding cover (6) upwards

The stitches of the sewing machine are illustrated on the inside of the top cover.

Connecting the foot control

Connect the plug of the foot control to the connecting socket (1) of the sewing machine and to the wall socket. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the foot control.

Additionally, you can regulate the sewing speed by moving the slide on the front part of the foot control.

Position ▶ = half speed

Position ▶▶ = full speed

For this sewing machine, a foot controller typ AW 0253 or AE 013 must to be used.

Main switch

When the main switch (2) is switched on, the sewing lamp lights up.

The sewing machine is now ready to use.

Interior view of a sewing machine with visible internal components and a close-up of its internal structure (no text or symbols)

Accessory tray

Your Pfaff select sewing machine has a removable accessory tray (15) which is also used as an extended work support.

Model 1540, has a special removable accessory organizer. The enclosed accessories are numbered. Sort the enclosed accessories into the corresponding sections of the accessory organizer.

Close-up of a white laboratory instrument with a sewing machine, placed on a blue surface (no visible text or symbols)

Using the free arm

In order to sew with the free arm, you must remove the accessory tray. Using both hands, swing the accessory tray (15) to the left and lift it out of the hole.

When replacing the removable accessory tray to its proper position, ensure that it is flush with the free arm of the sewing machine.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching white blocks on a blue gradient background (no text or symbols visible)

Close-up of hands adjusting a circular button with an arrow, no visible text or symbols

Preparing the machine for bobbin winding

Hold the handwheel (4) firmly and turn the handwheel release disc (3) until it stops in the direction of the arrow. This stops the needle from moving while the machine is winding the bobbin.

Close-up of a medical device's electrical switch component with a blue arrow pointing to the pin (no visible text or symbols)

Placing the bobbin

Switch off the main switch (2)

Place the empty bobbin so that the black pin of the bobbin winder (5) snaps into the slot of the bobbin.

Close-up of a medical device with a central glass component and a blue arrow pointing to it, against a blue background (no visible text or symbols)

Push the bobbin to the right

Note: The bobbin can only be wound when it is moved fully to the right.

PFAFF select 1540

B A D

Winding the bobbin from the spool holder

Place the sewing thread on the spool holder (8). To guarantee free movement of the thread and to give additional hold to the thread spool, fi t a spool cap corresponding to the size of the thread spool

Threading

Place the thread into guide A and pull it through opening B and to the right under the hook D. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around in the bobbin.

Switch on the main switch

Hold the end of the thread firmly and press the foot control. The winding action will stop automatically as soon as the bobbin is full. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove it.

Don't forget:

Turn the handwheel release disk (3) fully back again. Then turn the handwheel (4) towards you until it snaps into place.

PFAFF select 1540

C B D

Winding from the second spool holder

Push the second spool holder (7) into its hole and place a spool of thread with the corresponding spool cap on it.

Threading

Place the thread into guide C and pull it through opening B to the right under hook D. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bobbin.

Switch on the main switch

Hold the end of thread firmly and press the foot control. The winding action will stop automatically as soon as the bobbin is full.

Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove it.

Don't forget:

Turn the handwheel release disk (3) fully back again. Then turn the handwheel (4) towards you until it snaps into place.

TIP: If the machine is already threaded, you can easily wind thread from the second spool holder without having to unthread the machine.

PFAFF select 1540 D

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Winding through the needle

Even if the machine has been completely threaded, you can still wind the bobbin.

Raise presser foot lifter (19). Pass the needle thread through the presser foot and downwards; then through the right threading slot (11) and upwards.

Now, pull the thread into the take-up lever from left to right (9). The take-up lever must be positioned at its very top.

Pass the thread to the right under the guide hook D. Then wind the thread several times around the bobbin. Press the foot control and winding the bobbin.

Don't forget:

Make sure to stop the needle from moving while winding the bobbin (see page 4).

Close-up of a hand inserting a small object into a white sewing machine component against a blue background (no text or symbols visible)

Bobbin Case/Hook Cover

Switch off the main switch

Hold the side of the bobbin case/hook cover and open it towards you.

Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine with a small mechanical component inside, against a blue background (no text or symbols visible)

Removing the bobbin case

Raise the bobbin case lever and pull out the bobbin case. Release the lever and remove the empty bobbin.

Close-up of hands tying a string around a small mechanical component against a blue background (no text or symbols visible)

Thread tension

To ensure perfect sewing and a durable seam, the top and bottom thread-tensions must be well adjusted to each other and the threads must be interlaced between the two fabric pieces. The interlacing should be visible from the underside of the material only when sewing decorative seams, buttonholes and darning.

Illustration of a red wire spool and a mechanical component with no visible text or symbols

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the full bobbin into the bobbin case. In doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A, then under the tension plate B until it rests in the opening (see arrow).

Check: When you look at the bobbin and pull the thread, the bobbin must turn clockwise.

Mechanical component diagram showing a clamping mechanism with no visible text or symbols

Technical illustration of a mechanical component with a central hole and flange (no text or symbols)

Cross-sectional diagram of a mechanical component with red highlighted area (no text or symbols)

Inserting the bobbin case

Lift lever F and slide the bobbin case onto the hook pin D as far as it will go. Opening E of the bobbin case must face upwards.

Check: Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.

stretch D A PFAFF E

Threading the needle thread

Switch off the main switch

Raise the presser foot lifter (19) and turn the handwheel until the take-up lever (9) has moved to the top. Place the thread on the spool holder (8) and fi t the corresponding spool cap.

Now, using both hands, pull the thread into guide A and under thread guide hook D. Pass the thread through the lefthand threading slot (11) and downwards. Pull the thread around stop E into the righthand threading slot and upwards to the take-up lever (9).

The thread must be pulled into the take up lever (9) from left to right and downwards again in the righthand threading slot. Finally, pass the thread from the side behind one of the two thread guides (25).

To thread the needle, place the thread from front to back through the needle eye.

To thread the needle using the needle threader (Model 1540), please refer to the next page.

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine on a metal base (no visible text or symbols)

releasing the threader to m the thread thr A B

Needle threader (Model 1540)

To make threading the needle easier and quicker, you have been provided with the PFAFF needle threader (13). Lower the presser foot. Turn the handwheel until the needle is at its highest position. Place the needle thread under hook A and hold it taut. Move the needle threader fully downwards and turn it towards the needle so that the small hook B goes through the needle eye. Place the thread into the hook from below.

Turn the needle threader towards the rear, releasing the thread carefully, and allow the threader to move upwards. You can now pull the thread through the needle eye.

A PFAF

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching metal sheeting on a blue background (no text or symbols visible)

Threading the twin needle

Insert the twin needle.

Fit the second spool holder and place one spool of thread on each holder.

In the left threading slot (11) you will find tension disk A. During threading, make sure that you pass one thread left and one thread right over tension disk A.

Carry on threading in the usual way, but make sure the threads are not twisted with each other.

Pull the threads right and left into thread guide (25) and thread the needles.

Note: You cannot use the needle threader for a twin needle (Model 1540).

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a circular component against a blue background (no visible text or symbols)

Drawing up the bobbin thread

Turn off the main switch

Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is at the top again and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, with a hand adjusting the part (no visible text or symbols)

Bobbin thread

Close the bobbin case/hook cover and pull the thread under the presser foot to the left.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Thread cutter

Pull the threads from the back to the front over the thread cutter (12).

Close-up of a sewing machine needle with black components against a blue background (no visible text or symbols)

Presser foot lifter

The presser foot is raised or lowered with the presser foot lifter (19).

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle on a fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Removing the presser foot

Turn off the main switch

Position the needle at its highest point

Press the presser foot upwards at the front and downwards at the back at the same time so that it disengages from the presser foot holder (14)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching metal components on a workbench against a blue background (no text or symbols visible)

Engaging the presser foot

Place the presser foot under the presser foot holder (14) so that when the presser foot lifter (19) is lowered, the pins of the foot engage in the presser foot holder.

Check: Please check that the presser foot is properly engaged by raising the presser foot lifter.

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle, no visible text or symbols

The Intigrated dual feed/IDT System (Models 1530 and 1540)

PFAFF offers the ideal solution for sewing diffi cult materials: the intigrated dual feed. This system feeds the material from the top and bottom simultaneously as is done in industrial sewing machines. The fabric is fed precisely. When sewing light or diffi cult materials such as silk and rayon fabrics, the dual feed prevents seam puckering.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and clamping mechanism (no visible text or symbols)

Engaging the Intigrated Dual feed

(Models 1530, 1540)

Important! For all sewing jobs with the top feed, only use sewing feet with cutout at the back.

Raise the presser foot. Then push the top feed (17) downwards until it snaps into place.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and climp tool (no visible text or symbols)

Disengaging the Intigrated Dual Feed

Hold the dual feed with two fingers at the marked places. Push the top feed (17) down a little and out to the rear, and let it move slowly upwards.

Abstract geometric pattern with blue and white diagonal stripes (no text or symbols)

The even feeding action also ensures perfect matching of checked and striped fabrics.

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle on a small electronic device (no visible text or symbols)

A

Changing the needle

Switch off the main switch

To remove: Lower the presser foot and move the needle to its highest point. Now loosen the fi xing screw (18) and pull the needle downwards.

To insert: The fl at side A of the needle must face to the rear. Lower the presser foot and insert the needle, pushing it up as far as it goes. Hold the needle and tighten the fi xing screw (18) firmly.

A 5 4 A P

Setting the needle thread tension

Set the required needle thread tension (10) with the help of the mark A.

The normal setting for sewing is 4 to 5.

For embroidering, darning and buttonhole set the tension between 2 and 3.

Close-up of a washing machine with visible internal components and a blue arrow labeled 'A' pointing to it (no text or symbols on the main subject)

Dropping the feed dog

For certain sewing work, e.g. darning the feed dog has to be dropped. To do this, open the bobbin case/hook cover and move slide A fully to the right. Now the feed dog is dropped.

4.5M AFF

Stitch width dial

The stitch width can be adjusted with this dial (27). When selecting the width, the needle must not be in the material.

Basic setting: Turn the stitch width knob (27) to the symbol ▶ (maximum stitch width).

Exception: Straight stitch is sewn with stitch width 0.

In chapter "Utility stitches and practical sewing" (pages 21-44), you will find recommendations in the tables for the stitch width selection of individual stitches. During sewing you can also change the stitch width.

5H 3 AFF

Needle position dial

In the center needle position Ⓞ, 14 additional needle positions can be selected by turning the needle positioning dial (28) in increments to the left or right. The furthest needle position to the left Ⓞ can be achieved by turning the dial(28) as far as it will go to the right. The furthest needle position to the right 📄 can be achieved by turning the dial as far as it will go the left. When the position of the needle is being changed, the needle must not be in the material.

Note: If you have selected the right needle position, you can now use the width dial (27) to increase or reduce the width of the left side of the stitch. The reverse applies also for needle position to the left (see page 49).

Close-up of a white rectangular object with a blue arrow pointing to it, next to multiple labeled electronic components (no readable text or symbols)

Reverse sewing

The machine sews in reverse only as long as the reverse sewing button (20) is pressed.

Close-up of a small electronic device with a ruler and multiple labeled buttons (no readable text or symbols)

Stitch length adjustment dial

With the stitch length adjustment dial (21) you can adjust the stitch length between 0 and 6 mm by turning the point marking on the button to the required length.

Diagram showing a device with labeled buttons and an arrow pointing to a control panel, likely illustrating a process or control mechanism.

Between the numbers 0 and 1 you will find the "buttonhole" symbol. This area is the optimum stitch density for sewing buttonholes and embroidering.

The further you turn the dial to 0, the higher the density of the stitch.

Diagram showing a device with labeled buttons and an arrow pointing to a control panel, likely illustrating a process or system.

To sew stretch stitches (dark background), you must turn the stitch length adjustment dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

Stitch selection, push button controls – select 1540

Computer keyboard layout with multiple 12 keys and a labeled component 'B' (no text or symbols on keys)

Utility stitches

Each stitch has been given a letter that you can find on the push button controls. By pressing the correct button, the stitch is selected and the machine is ready to sew. Button B releases the buttons that have been activated.

Under the lid (6) you will find the stitch table with all the utility stitches and stitch combinations.

Computer keyboard layout with multiple 16-inch units and a labeled component 'B' (no text or symbols on the keys themselves)

Stretch stitches

All the stitches with a colored background are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch material. Press the selected button down and turn the stitch length dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

Button B releases the button that have already been activated.

B

Utility and stretch stitch combinations

By pushing two or several buttons you can create combinations in the utility stitch range.

The stitch length dial can either be in the normal sewing range or in the stretch range.

All the stitch combinations are illustrated on the stitch table in the lid. You can release buttons that are already activated with button B.

Stitch selection, stitch dial – select 1530, 1520

select 24 A

Utility stitches

Each stitch is identified by a letter. The stitches and their corresponding letters are shown on the inside of the lid, a chart is also found in the Introduction chapter.

Turn the dial (24) until the corresponding letter is positioned below mark A.

21

Stretch stitches

All the stitches with a colored background are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch material.

Turn the dial (24) until the corresponding letter is positioned below mark A.

Turn the stitch length dial (21) as far as it will go in the grey area.

Pink floral arrangement with soft brushstroke details (no text or symbols)

Woman wearing a purple sleeveless dress with a patterned skirt, against a solid pink background (no text or symbols visible)

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Sewing chart 22

General sewing aids 23

Non-elastic stitches 24-25

Elastic stitches 26-27

Overlock stitches 28-29

Covering stitches 30-31

Buttonhole 32-33

Button sewing 34

Hemming with the twin needle 35

Smocking 35

Gathering 36

Darning 37-38

Sewing on zippers 39-41

Stabilizing edges 42

Sewing lace 43

Shell edging 44

Close-up of a robotic sewing machine in operation, showing mechanical components and no visible text or symbols.

Explanation of the sewing chart

The following charts show the recommended settings for each stitch or technique.

These charts also provide you with further instructions that are necessary when sewing the selected stitches.

The choice of the sewing foot, the setting of the needle thread tension and whether the sewing is carried out with the top feed switched on or off.

Always use the "center" needle position if not otherwise specified in the instructions.

	stitch
1540
1530
1520

stitch

Stitch number

Stitch width in mm

Stitch length in mm

Dual feed on =

off

=

Thread tension

Presser foot number

Needle thread tension

To ensure perfect sewing results, the needle and bobbin thread tensions must be perfectly tuned to each other. The normal setting for utility stitches is in the range of 4-5.

Check the tension with a wide zigzag stitch. The threads must be interlaced between the two fabric pieces.

If the needle thread tension is too high the threads are interlaced above the top fabric. If the needle thread tension is too low, the threads are interlaced below the lower fabric.

The adjustment of the needle thread tension is described on page 15 and the bobbin thread tension on page 8.

Pure diagram of a 3D rectangular block with red and gray components, no text or symbols present

Perfect tension

Pure diagram of a red helical spring inside a transparent rectangular frame (no text or symbols)

Too high tension

Pure diagram of a layered structure with no text, numbers, or symbols

Too low tension

Topstitching

Straight stitch G (1540)/E (1530, 1520) can be sewn using any of 15 various needle positions in such a way that you can always guide the sewing foot along the fabric edge for top-stitching work. The top-stitch needle position is determined by the needle position dial. If you wish to top-stitch farther from the fabric edge, simply guide the fabric along the guide marks on the needle plate or use the edge guide (standard accessory No.8). The edge guide is inserted into hole A and is secured with fi xing screw B.

A B

Sewing aid for thick seams

To ensure a consistent feed when beginning sewing at a thick seam, we recommend supporting the presser foot on a piece of fabric of the same height as the workpiece

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching blue fabric, no visible text or symbols

Plain light green background with a vertical white line on the right edge (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching red fabric (no visible text or symbols)

	stitch
1540	G	0	2,5	●	3-5	0/1
1530	E	0	2,5	●	3-5	0/1
1520	E	0	2,5		3-5	0/1

	stitch
1540	G	2-▶	1-2	●	3-5	0/1
1530	E	2-▶	1-2	●	3-5	0/1
1520	E	2-▶	1-2		3-5	0/1

Straight stitch

Stitch G/E is the basic straight stitch. The stitch length can be increased up to 6mm if required.

It is easier to do some sewing jobs by changing the needle position, e.g. top-stitching a collar or sewing in a zipper. You can select up to 15 different needle positions (see page 16).

Please ensure that the needle is at its highest position when adjusting the needle position.

C A B

Zigzag stitch

In addition to overlock stitching, zigzag stitch G, stitch width 5▶, is also suitable for overcasting various materials. In this case, the material should only be positioned halfway under the sewing foot.

When overcasting the edge, make sure the needle goes into the material and over the edge alternately.

The width for overcasting can be reduced up to 2 mm.

For overcasting diffi cult materials, blind stitch foot No. 3 is very useful. When sewing, the thread lies over pin C, thus preventing curling of the fabric edge. In this way you can sew beautiful smooth seams.

The raw edge must be guided along edge guide B. You can adjust this edge guide with adjusting screw A.

Important: When the blind stitch foot is used for overcasting with the zigzag stitch, select the right needle position. Choose a stitch width in the range of 3-5 mm (do not use any other needle position).

Cropped image showing a red zigzag line and partial text 'WAN' on a textured gray background, likely from a document or label.

	stitch
1540	H/D	5-▶	1-2	●	3-5	0/3
1530	-/H	5-▶	1-2	●	3-5	0/3
1520	-/H	5-▶	1-2		3-5	0/3

Blind stitch (Model 1540)

Blind stitch H is best suited for invisible hems; sewing by hand is no longer necessary.

• Serge the edge of the hem
• Fold the edge inwards by the hem width.
• Now unfold the hem again so that the hem edge protrudes by about 1 cm
• Place the fabric under the sewing foot so that the crease line runs along edge guide B.
• Using the needle positioning knob 28, select the needle position to the right ⓞ.
• When the needle enters the crease line, it must only pick up one fi ber of the fabric.

A B

Remember!

When blind stitching, if you select a needle position other than right, Ⓞ and stitch width other than 5, make sure the needle does not strike the bar of presser foot 3.

If the stitches are visible on the right side, adjust edge guide B by turning adjusting screw A.

Use the needle position ⓞ and the width dial (27) to regulate the penetration of the needle in the crease.

Diagram showing a folded paper with red waveform patterns below, no text or symbols present

Stitch H (1540)

Blind stitch (elastic)

Stitch D (1540) or H (1530/1520) is a blind stitch for woven or elastic materials. The hem is sewn and overcast at the same time.

Diagram of a rolled-up cable with red waveform pattern, no text or symbols present

Stitch D (1540), stitch H (1530/1520)

Close-up of a curved blue surface with a dashed black line, no text or symbols visible

Close-up of a wooden surface with a red zigzag line at the bottom (no text or symbols)

	select
1540	G	0	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1530	E	0	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1520	E	0	Stretch		3-5	0/1

	select
1540	G	3-5▶	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1530	E	3-5▶	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1520	E	3-5▶	Stretch		3-5	0/1

Stretch triple straight stitch

This stitch is used for sewing all seams where great strength is needed, e.g. inside trouser seams.

Turn the stitch length dial away from you as far as it will go for the longest stitch length.

Stretch triple zigzag stitch

The stretch triple zigzag stitch is a highly elastic and decorative seam which is very suitable for hems on T-shirts and underwear.

• Serge the edge of the hem.
• Fold the hem inwards at the required width.
• Topstitch the hem from the right side.

Close-up of a white surface with a wavy black line above a pink textured surface (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

	select
1540	M	5-▶	1-2,5	●	3-5	0/1
1530	F	5-▶	1-2,5	●	3-5	0/1
1520	F	5-▶	1-2,5		3-5	0/1

	select
1540	M	5-▶	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1530	F	5-▶	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1520	F	5-▶	Stretch		3-5	0/1

Elastic stitch

Because of its high elasticity, this stitch can be used for sewing elastic on swimwear, skirts or lingerie.

• Mark elastic and fabric in quarters.
- Pin elastic to fabric at quarter markings.
- Place fabric and elastic under sewing foot.
- Stretch elastic to fit the fabric. Begin sewing.

Note: When stretching elastic, make sure to stretch from the front and back of the sewing foot.

Honeycomb stitch

The honeycomb stitch is an elastic and decorative hem which is particularly suitable for hems on T-shirts and childrens clothes.

- Fold the hem over double and overstitch it.

What is an overlock stitch?

For elastic materials and knits, the select models offer overlock stitches which sew two fabric layers together and overcast simultaneously. They are more elastic than normal seams, very durable and quickly sewn.

Tip: We recommend using blind stitch foot No. 3 when sewing overlock seams. It guides particularly well and prevents the seam from puckering even on wide seams.

Solid yellow background with a vertical hatched line on the right edge (no text or symbols)

Close-up portrait of a person with blonde hair wearing a light blue blouse (no text or symbols visible)

	stitch
1540	K	5-▶	Stretch	●	3-5	0/3
1530	I	5-▶	Stretch	●	3-5	0/3
1520	I	5-▶	Stretch		3-5	0/3

Open overlock stitch

With this stitch, thicker materials and fabrics which do not fray too much can be sewn together perfectly.

TIP: Make sure that the needle sews to the right of the material just over the edge and not in it.

Simple geometric pattern with a vertical green line and triangular hatching on a light blue background (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a knitted fabric with repeating pink and white threads (no text or symbols)

	stitch
1540	I	5-▶I	Stretch	●	3-5	0/3
1530	K	5-▶I	Stretch	●	3-5	0/3
1520	K	5-▶I	Stretch		3-5	0/3

	stitch
1540	H	5-▶	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1530	-	-	-		-	-
1520	-	-	-		-	-

Closed overlock stitch

The closed overlock stitch is perfect for sewing jersey knits. You can also sew sleeve cuffs and knit collars which are well-sewn and long-lasting.

TIP: Ensure that the sleeve cuff is stretched while it is being sewn.

Remember!

When overlocking, if you select a needle position other than center, Ⓞ and stitch width other than 5▶, make sure the needle does not strike the bar of sewing foot 3.

Pullover stitch (Model 1540)

This stitch is suitable for open-knit fabrics. Fashion-knit garment sections can also be joined effortlessly with this stitch. Make sure that the material is fed to the right of the needle, not to the left.

TIP: To prevent the seam from stretching while sewing, it is advisable to add a woolen thread under light tension.

What is a covering stitch?

You can use the following stitches for sewing a fl at covering seam. This produces a so called "fl atlock effect" which lends a professional look to collar plackets or raglan seams.

The covering stitches are only available on select 1540.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching white fabric, no visible text or symbols

	stitch
1540	L	5-▶	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1530	-	-	-		-	-
1520	-	-	-		-	-

Feather stitch (Model 1540)

With the feather stitch you can sew highly elastic materials with an effect similar to that of hem stitching, e.g. lingerie.

• Serge the fabric edges and baste them over.
• Lay the edges to be sewn underneath the pressing foot with a distance between the edges of about 3 mm.
• Stitch from the face side, ensuring that the needle perforates the material both right and left.

Close-up of a textured surface with two wavy black lines, no visible text or symbols

Close-up of a curved, layered material with purple and pink bands (no text or symbols)

	stitch
1540	L	5-▶	1-2	●	3-5	0/1
1530	-	-	-		-	-
1520	-	-	-		-	-

	stitch
1540	IG	5→	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1530	-	-	-		-	-
1520	-	-	-		-	-

Fancy elastic stitch (Model 1540)

The fancy elastic stitch is very useful for materials that require a fl at seam, e.g. terry cloth and fl eece.

- Place the two fabric edges so that they overlap by about 2 cm and overstitch each edge with fancy elastic stitch.

Pennant stitch (Model 1540)

The pennant stitch is one of the many types of covering stitches. Since it can be stretched it is particularly suitable for overstitching the bands on elastic materials, e.g. sweatshirts or sportswear.

• Sew the band onto the part with an overlock stitch (see pgs 28,29)
• The seam allowance can now be overstitched from the right side of the fabric. Make sure that the needle enters in the shadow of the seam.

Buttonholes

Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all the models with pushbutton controls since the fabric does not have to be turned.

Buttonholes are generally sewn onto a piece of doubled fabric. However, for some materials, e.g. silk, organza and viscose, it is necessary to use stabilizer to prevent the material from contracting while sewing.

To produce beautiful seams, embroidering or darning threads are ideally suited to this purpose.

Mark the starting point of the buttonhole either with a magic pen or dress pin, and always sew a sample buttonhole fi rst.

Note: Before starting any buttonhole, always push the guide of the buttonhole foot fully to the front, i.e. so that the red arrow is at the first red mark. The red marks are arranged at an interval of 0.5 cm. They are a guide when determining the length of the buttonhole.

Simple blue rectangular object on a light blue textured background (no text or symbols)

	stitch
1540	CBA	5-		○		0/1
1530	-	-				-
1520	-	-				-

1540 - Standard buttonhole

• Insert the buttonhole foot and slide the foot forward as far as it will go.
• Select stitch 1 (C) and sew the right side of the buttonhole to the required length. Clip the top thread after a few stitches.
• Select stitch 2 (B) and hold the button down as you sew a few bartacks.
• Select stitch 3 (A) and sew the left side of the buttonhole until it matches the previous side in length.
• Select stitch 4 (B) and hold the button down as you sew a few bartacks.
• Release button B and sew a couple stitches to secure your buttonhole.
• Carefully cut open your buttonhole with scissors or a seam ripper.

Tip: If you would like to sew very fine buttonholes, you can reduce the buttonhole width with the stitch width dial (27) down to approx. 3 mm. Use the center needle position ☐.

Simple blue rectangular shape on a light blue background (no text or symbols)

	stitch
1540	-	-				-
1530	ABC	5-▶		○		0/1
1520	ABC	5-▶				0/1

Blue and white plastic strip with coiled wires against a blue background (no text or symbols)

Standard buttonhole with gimp thread

To sew especially durable buttonholes, on heavy fabrics, knits or sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread.

On knits the gimp thread is particularly important to prevent the buttonhole from stretching.

1520/1530 - Standard buttonhole

• Insert the buttonhole foot and slide the foot forward as far as it will go.
• Select stitch A. Sew the left side of the buttonhole to the required length. Clip the top thread after a few stitches.
• Select stitch B and sew a few bartacks while holding the fabric securely.
• Select stitch C. Sew the right side of the buttonhole until it matches the previous side in length.
• Select stitch B and sew a few bartacks while holding the fabric securely.
• Select stitch D. Secure the buttonhole by sewing a few stitches.
• Carfully cut open your buttonhole with scissors or a seam ripper.

Tip: If you would like to sew very fine buttonholes, you can reduce the buttonhole width with the stitch width dial (27) down to approx. 3 mm. Use the center needle position

• Lay the gimp thread over the rear protrusion A and pass the thread ends underneath the presser foot towards the front.
• Clamp the threads to the left and right of protrusion B.
• Slide the buttonhole runner as far forwards as possible and sew the buttonhole as described for your select model.
• Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the buttonhole and cut the threads.

A B

Diagram showing a tool interacting with a red shaded surface, no text or symbols present

Carfully cut open your buttonhole with scissors or a seam ripper.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching teal fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

	stitch
1540	G	4	-	○	2-3	-
1530	E	4	-	○	2-3	-
1520	E	4	-		2-3	-

Sewing on buttons

With zigzag stitch G/E (stitch width 4 mm) you can sew on two- and four-hole buttons.

• Remove the sewing foot and lower the feed dog
• Turn the handwheel towards you and move the button in such a way that the needle enters the left hole in the button
• Now lower the presser foot lifter; this holds the button off the blade.
• Sew on the button. Take care to ensure that the needle also enters the right-hand hole in the button.

Securing

• Select straight stitch by turning the width dial (27) to 0.
• Change the needle position with the needle position dial (28) so that the needle enters one of the two holes.
• Sew a few securing stitches.

Sewing on buttons with shanks

Insert the sewing foot

• Place a match between the holes of the button and sew it on as described to the left.
• Remove the match and pull the fabric and the button apart.
• Wrap the shank you have just created with sewing thread and knot it. (See illustrations below)

Diagram of a circular object with a curved top and two legs, connected by arrows indicating flow or motion (no text or symbols)

Mechanical component with a circular head and threaded base, showing rotational motion indicated by a pink arrow (no text or symbols)

Blue textured surface with vertical striations and a horizontal line (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine stitching yellow fabric (no text or symbols visible)

	stitch
1540	G	0	3	●	3-5	0/1
1530	E	0	3	●	3-5	0/1
1520	E	0	3		3-5	0/1

	stitch
1540	G	0	3-4	●	3-5	0/1
1530	E	0	3-4	●	3-5	0/1
1520	E	0	3-4		3-5	0/1

Hemming with the twin needle

Use the twin needle to make beatiful topstitch seams.

Using the twin needle you can add a professional touch to hems on stretch materials such as T-shirts, knitted articles or cycling shorts both quickly and easily.

Twin needles are available in different widths. The traditional width for topstitching is 4 mm. To prevent the needle from striking the needle plate, you must make sure that you select the center needle position ☐

• First fold and iron the width of fabric desired for the hem.
• Then topstitch the hem from the right side.
• Finally, cut the protruding hem edge back to the seam.

Use only a stretch needle when sewing stretch material!

Tip: On diffi cult materials such as ribbed knitwear it is advisable to baste the hem before topstitching it.

On page 11 you will find a description of how to thread the twin needle.

Smocking effect with elastic threads

Fine, light fabrics such as Batist, rayon and silk are particularly suitable for beautiful smocking work. For smocking work with the elastic thread, you should use an additional bobbin case and wind the bobbin by hand with the elastic thread. As the elastic thread is much stronger than the normal bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin case must be set at very low.

Don't forget, the higher the bobbin thread tension, the more intense the gathering effect.

• Sew a test seam to determine the level of gather.
• Mark the first line on the right side of the fabric and sew along it.
• Each additional seam can be sewn at a presser foot's width from the first row.
• When sewing several seams next to one another, you must stretch the fabric to its original length when sewing the subsequent seams. Otherwise, the gather will be irregular.
• Knot the threads at the beginning and end of the seam on the reverse side.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching teal fabric, with a close-up inset showing the same pattern (no text or symbols visible)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching light blue fabric, with a close-up inset showing a patterned garment (no text or symbols visible)

	stitch
1540	G	0	6	●	3-5	0/1
1530	E	0	6	●	3-5	0/1
1520	E	0	6		3-5	0/1

	stitch
1540	M	5-►	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1530	F	5-►	Stretch	●	3-5	0/1
1520	F	5-►	Stretch		3-5	0/1

Gathering with the straight stitch

Using a straight stitch, you can gather sleeves, skirts and valances with a stitch length of 6 mm. To ensure consistent gathering you should sew two or three rows of gathering.

• Mark the first line on the right side of the fabric and sew along it. Allow the threads to extend approx. 10 – 20 cm.
  • Each subsequent seam can be sewn one presser foot width from the last.
  • Gather the piece of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. You determine the amount of gather by how much you pull the thread.
• Finally, the thread ends are knotted to secure the gather.

Gathering with elastic thread

Sleeve and waist seams can be gathered by sewing over an elastic thread.

• Mark the first gathering seam on the reverse side of the fabric.
• Sew a few stitches using stitch M/F. Leave the needle in the fabric. The needle must be in the center of the presser foot. Raise the presser foot and lay the elastic thread around the needle.
• Lower the presser foot and sew a few stitches. Then pull the elastic thread evenly at both ends.
• Determine the amount of gather by the amount you pull the threads.
• The gather can also be altered after sewing by pulling the ends of the elastic threads.
  • Finally, knot the threads and elastic.

Tip: The cording foot (special accessory) is particularly suitable for gathering. Due to its guide grooves the elastic is fed evenly during the sewing process.

D C F G E

A B

Mechanical sewing machine needle stitching a patterned fabric edge (no text or symbols visible)

Grid pattern with dashed lines and a pink arrow indicating a specific point (no text or symbols)

	stitch
1540	G	0	-	○	2-3	6
1530	E	0	-	○	2-3	Optional
1520	E	0	-		2-3	Optional

Darning with the straight stitch

Insert the darning foot:

Loosen screw D. Set the needle at its highest point and push the pin of the darning foot fully into the hole C of the sewing foot holder. When doing this, the guide fork G should position itself around the presser bar. The lever E must be behind the fixing screw F. Now tighten screw D.

Darning position:

Lower the presser-foot lifter (A) while pushing it lightly to the rear. This snaps the presser foot lifter into a notch (B) on the back side of the sewing machine into the darning position.

• Place the darning work in the darning hoop.
• Drop the feed dog.
• Pull up the bobbin thread and hold the threads when you start sewing.
• Darn the damaged area by guiding the fabric back and forth evenly in the prescribed direction while ensuring that each line ends with a small curve. This helps to avoid the fabric ripping again.
• When you have fi nished sewing the damaged area, rotate the fabric again.

You determine the stitch length yourself by moving the fabric back and forth.

Tip: If you move the fabric too slowly, small knots will appear on the reverse side of the fabric.

Repeating zigzag pattern on a plain background (no text or symbols)

Darning with the elastic stitch

Darning with the elastic stitch is especially suitable for repairing damaged areas.

- Sew over the damaged area in rows until it is well covered. Take care to ensure that the rows overlap.

	stitch
1540	M	5-▶	0,2-1,5	●	3-5	0/1
1530	F	5-▶	0,2-1,5	●	3-5	0/1
1520	F	5-▶	0,2-1,5		3-5	0/1

Pure diagram of a spring with no text, numbers, or symbols

Repairing tears

On tears, frayed edges or small holes it is useful to lay a piece of material under the reverse side of the fabric. The underlayed fabric reinforces the workpiece and ensures perfect repair.

• Lay a piece of fabric underneath the damaged fabric. It must be a little larger than the damaged area.
• Now sew over the damaged area.
• Cut the under layed piece of material back to the seam.

Close-up of a woven fabric pattern with no visible text or symbols

Sewing on patches

To cover larger holes is it necessary to sew a new piece of fabric onto the damaged area.

• Baste the new piece of fabric onto the damaged area of the face side of the fabric.
• Sew over the fabric edges with the elastic stitch.
• Now cut the damaged area back to the seam from the reverse side of the fabric.

Woman smiling while holding a white trowel, wearing a light blue blouse and blue skirt (no visible text or symbols)

Sewing on zippers

There are various methods of sewing on zippers. For skirts, we recommend the fully concealed zipper, for men's and ladies' trousers the semi concealed zipper. Various zippers are available. We recommend using a metal zipper for strong fabrics such as denim. For all other materials we recommend a plastic zipper.

It is important for all types of zippers to sew very close to the edge of the teeth of the zipper. This is why it is possible to insert the zipper foot either on the right or the left of the presser foot holder.

Additionally, you can set the needle so that it enters close to the edge of the zipper teeth by using one of the 15 available needle positions. If the foot is engaged to the right, the needle must only be moved to the right. If the foot is engaged left, the needle must only be moved to the left.

	stitch
1540	G	0	3	●	3-5	4
1530	E	0	3	●	3-5	4
1520	E	0	3		3-5	4

Mechanical assembly diagram showing a sewing machine needle stitching a base plate (no text or symbols visible)

Left presser foot position

Illustration of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no text or symbols visible

Right presser foot position

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching teal fabric, no visible text or symbols

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching teal fabric (no text or symbols visible)

Fully concealed, sew-in zipper

• Insert the zipper foot on the right side.
• Baste in the zipper and lay it underneath the presser foot so that the teeth of the zipper run alongside the foot.
• Stitch in half of the zipper, leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and close the zipper.

• Now you can continue sewing the seam up to the end of the zipper and sew the cross seam.

• Sew the second half of the zipper parallel at the same distance.

• Stop after the first half and leave the needle in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and open the zipper.
• Now you can fi nish sewing the seam.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching teal fabric, with no visible text or symbols

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching teal fabric, no visible text or symbols

The trouser zipper

• Iron the seam allowances, taking care to ensure that the underlap extends by about 4 mm.
• Baste the zipper under the underlap so that the teeth are visible.
• Insert the zipper foot on the right side and move the needle to the right needle position.

• Stitch along the edge of the zipper.

• Just before the end of the seam, open the zipper and fi nish sewing the seam.

• Close the zipper and baste the overlap evenly to the other half of the zipper.
• Then sew through the basted seam.

Tip: To achieve a perfect seam, we recommend using the edge guide.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching blue fabric, no visible text or symbols

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching blue fabric (no visible text or symbols)

	stitch
1540	G	0	3	○	3-5	7
1530	E	0	3	○	3-5	Optional
1520	E	0	3		3-5	Optional

Stabilizing edges

With the hemmer you can hem blouses, silk scarves and valances with ease, without having to pre-iron the fabric edges. The hemming prevents the edges from fraying and a clean, durable edge is the result.

• Fold the beginning of the fabric edge over twice (approx. 2 mm)
• Lay the folded fabric edge underneath the hemmer and sew a few stitches.
• Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and insert the fabric into the hemmer foot scroll.
• Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric evenly into the hemmer.

Take care to ensure that the fabric does not run under the right half of the presser foot.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fabrics, the roll hem is particularly attractive with a zigzag stitch

Close-up of two interlocking fabric strips with textured, patterned surfaces (no text or symbols)

	stitch
1540	G	0	2,5	●	3-5	0/1
1530	E	0	2,5	●	3-5	0/1
1520	E	0	2,5		3-5	0/1

Inserting lace

You can achieve a beautiful effect by inserting lace, e.g. on babywear and children's clothing.

• First the lace is basted onto the right side of the fabric.
• Sew on both sides of the lace at a narrow margin.
• The fabric underneath the lace is cut down the middle and ironed to the side.
• Sew over both edges of the lace with a small, dense, zigzag stitch (stitch width 2-4 mm).
• Cut back the extra fabric.

Decorative corner frame with white lace border and floral patterns on blue background (no text or symbols)

Attaching lace

You can beautify and remodel home textiles with the desired suitable lace as often as you like.

Here's how it's done:

• First serge the cut edges.
• Sew the lace onto the face side of the fabric up to the first corner.
• Fold the corner and sew over it diagonally.
• Sew the following sides in the same way.

Close-up of a textured blue surface with a horizontal dotted line across the center (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a blue textured surface with a white wavy line and faint circular patterns (no text or symbols)

	select
1540	K	4,5	1,5	●	4-5	0/1
1530	I	4,5	1,5	●	4-5	0/1
1520	I	4,5	1,5		4-5	0/1

Shell-edging

Shell-edging is especially attractive on thin, soft fabrics such as silk and viscose.

It is often used as an edging on lingerie.

The higher the needle thread tension, the deeper the shell edge feed.

• Serge the fabric edge and iron the seam allowance to the left.
• Take care that the fabric only runs half underneath the presser foot while sewing. This intensifi es the effect of the shell-edging.

Tip: By sewing a colored woollen thread into the seam you strengthen the shell-edge while also creating an attractive contrast in the seam. A fi ne fabric of another color can also be used instead of a woollen thread.

Decorative sewing and embroidery techniques Sewing table for decorative sewing 46 Decorative stitches 47 Monograms 48 Embroidering with the dense zigzag stitch/Tapering 49-51 Appliqué 51 Richelieu 52 Eyelet embroidery 52 Patchwork quilt 53 Hemstitching 54

select 1540

Decorative stitches

To enhance home textiles or garments, you can produce decorations by selecting different stitches, using different thread/fabric colors or vary length and width of the stitches.

For decorative stitches we recommend using special embroidery threads which are available from your Pfaff dealer. Use stabilizer under the fabric to be decorated. This prevents the material from pulling. Use a magic pen or marking chalk to mark a line for your first row of stitching.

The following recommendations apply to all samples on the following pages.

The stitch length and stitch width can be varied as required.

Always use the center needle position ☐ if not otherwise indicated

	stitch
1540	-	5-▶	0,5-1	○	2-3
1530	-	5-▶	0,5-1	○	2-3
1520	-	5-▶	0,5-1		2-3

stitch

Stitch number

Stitch width in mm

Stitch length in mm

Dual feed on =

off

=

Thread tension

Presser foot number

Close-up of four black zigzag chain patterns against a light blue background (no text or symbols)

Borders with a combination of stitches

(only on select 1540)

By combining different stitches as desired you can easily achieve embroidery effects. This is a simple and pleasing way to embellish tablecloths and garments.

• Place appropriate stabilizer under the fabric.
  • Mark the center with tailor's chalk.
• Begin with the combination M/G Stretch, stitch width 5▶. Embroider along the marked line. Then turn the fabric and embroider back down the border in reverse.
• Sew close to the first border with the combination L/K Stretch stitch width 5▶.
• I/F Stretch, stitch width 5 ▶, completes the border. Embroider one row. Then turn the material and embroider back down the border in reverse.

Pure diagram of zigzag lines with wavy patterns, no text or symbols present

Combinations with colored thread (only on select 1540)

An additional effect can be produced with different colored thread. Multi-colored thread was used for the middle border in this example. You can purchase it in a great variety of shades from your PFAFF dealer.

- Place appropriate stabilizer under the fabric.

• Mark the middle with tailor's chalk.

- Begin with the stitch H Stretch, stitch width 5▶. Embroider along the marked line. Then turn the fabric and embroider back down the border in reverse.

- Sew close to the first border with the stitch I/G Stretch, stitch width 2-4 mm.

- F/G Stretch, stitch width 3-4 mm completes the border.

Lf

EF

Monograms

Whether working with stretch or woven fabric, with the help of the darning foot and the stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), stitch width 2.5-5 ▶, you can embroider initials of your own design.

Sewing this way without a set pattern does, however, require a little practice.

• Draw the initials onto the fabric with an invisible-ink marker.
• Drop the feed dog. Insert the darning foot and bring it into darning position (see page 37).
• Place stabilizer under the fabric.
• Hoop the fabric in an embroidery hoop and embroider using the zigzag stitch.
• Tie off the threads and remove the stabilizer.

Tip: By sewing quickly and moving the material slowly, you will achieve dense stitches.

When embroidering on terry-cloth, the monogram must fi rst be sewn with a narrow zigzag stitch and then stitched again with a wider zigzag stitch. In this way the terry-cloth loops are completely covered.

Embroidering block letters is somewhat easier. Here the feed dog is not dropped which means that free sewing is no longer necessary. You can simply sew along the lines with stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), stitch width 2.5-5 ▶.

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.
• Before sewing, draw the monogram onto the fabric.
• Sew along the lines you have sketched using the zigzag stitch.

Three vertical, elongated, dark greenish spikes against a plain background (no text or symbols)

Embroidering with a dense zigzag stitch/Tapering

Tapering is easy with your select sewing machine. By adjusting the width of this dense zigzag stitch you can create interesting embroidery.

Even embroidering

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.
• Set needle thread tension to "buttonhole", select zigzag stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), set stitch length to "buttonhole" and select the center needle position.
• Turn the width dial (27) smoothly and consistently from 0 to 5 mm and back again to 0 while sewing at a constant speed through the procedure.

Note: If you selected the right or left needle position, the stitch width will only change in one direction.

Three blue abstract vertical shapes with jagged edges, arranged horizontally on a light gray background (no text or symbols)

Uneven embroidering

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.
• Set needle thread tension to "buttonhole", select zigzag stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), set stitch length to "buttonhole" and select the center needle position ☐.
• Increase or decrease the width of the stitch using the width dial (27).

Note: If you selected the right or left needle position, the stitch width will only change in one direction.

Colorful floral and needle-like decorative pattern with no text or symbols

Floral embroidery

For this flower arrangement, only a dense zigzag stitch was used in combination with the variable stitch width and the various needle positions.

• Place stabilizer under the fabric.
• Draw the contours of a flower motif with a self-erasing textile pen.
• Set needle thread tension to "buttonhole", select zigzag stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), set stitch length to "buttonhole".

- Flowers: Select center needle position Ⓞ and embroider individual petals. Adjust the stitch width with the width dial (34) during sewing according to the contours of the flower.

- Leaves: Select right needle position Ⓞ and embroider half of the leaf. Vary the stitch width using the width dial (27). Turn the handwheel towards you after fi nishing the fi rst half of the leaf until the needle is positioned in the material.

- Turn the material 180 degrees and embroider the other half of the leaf

Abstract geometric shapes with blue and green outlines forming a 3D-like structure (no text or symbols)

Embroidering corners

By changing the stitch width during sewing of dense zigzag stitches you can embroider corners with 45 degree angles.

• Set needle thread tension to "buttonhole", zigzag stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), set stitch length to "buttonhole" and stitch width 5 mm.

- Select right needle position and embroider a straight line.

- Embroider corner: After the needle has penetrated the material to the right, reduce the stitch width using the width dial (27) by 0.5 mm to 4.5 mm. Sew a stitch.

- Reduce the width once again by 0.5 mm and sew a stitch. Continue in this manner until the stitch width is 0.5 mm.

- Turn the handwheel towards you until the needle penetrates the material. Turn the material 90 degrees and sew a stitch.

- Increase the width by 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm. Sew one stitch.

- Increase the width by 0.5 mm again and sew one stitch. Continue in this manner until the initial width is achieved. Now embroider a straight line.

If the corner is to continue in the opposite direction, use the outermost left needle position.

Simple geometric shape with colored segments (yellow, blue, green) forming a rectangle, no text or symbols present.

Decorative buttonhole

This buttonhole is a beautiful alternative to the traditional buttonhole (see page 32-33). Since you determine the width of the buttonhole seam, the buttonhole can have a width of up to 10 mm.

- Sew two buttonhole seams about 1 mm apart using a dense zigzag stitch (stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), stitch width 3-5 mm). The needle thread tension is set to "buttonhole".

- Select the right needle position and sew over both ends of the buttonhole seam with a triangle. To do this, turn the stitch width dial (27) during sewing constantly from 0 to 5 ▶ and back to 0. The top of the triangle should meet the middle of both buttonhole seams.

Illustration of an orange flower with five petals and two central blossoms, set against a beige background (no text or symbols)

Appliqué

Appliqués are quickly made and always produce a beautiful fancy effect. By using different materials and patterns you can sew many different variations. You can make a perfect, densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot (special accessories), because it has a special cutout on the underside for the buttonhole seam. Use a fusible backing fabric to iron the appliqué onto the material, making it easier for you to appliqué.

• Insert the appliqué foot in the sewing machine.
• Transfer your drafted pattern to the face side, smooth side, of the fusible backing fabric. Remember that e.g. letters have to be drawn as a mirror image.
• Now iron the backing fabric onto the appliqué material. Cut the motif out and pull the paper off.
• Place and iron on the appliqué parts on the base material.
• Sew over a appliqué material edges with the dense zigzag, stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), stitch width 2-4 mm, stitch length "buttonhole". The needle thread tension is in the "buttonhole" area. Make sure the needle stitches over the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later.

Tip: For appliqué pieces which are pointed at the ends, you can make the zigzag stitch narrower using the width dial (27) so that the ends are pointed.

Close-up of a white fabric with ruffled edges and a small inset image of three figures (no text or symbols visible)

Richelieu

This especially artistic form of eyelet and insert embroidery is easy to sew with your sewing machine.

• Using a magic marker, draw your motif onto the right side of the fabric.
• Then place two layers of water-soluble stabilizer underneath the fabric to be embroidered and hoop both the fabric and the stabilizer into an embroidery hoop.
• Insert decorative embroidery foot number 1.
• To lend more durability to the embroidery, sew all of the contours twice using the straight stitch (stitch length approx. 1 mm).
• Then carefully cut out the fabric 2 mm next to the contour from the areas which are to be hollow. The stabilizer must not move.
• Embroider the contours with a dense zigzag stitch.
• Finally, simply dissolve the stabilizer fl eece in cold water and your one-of-a-kind design is fi nished.

Woman in white dress looking at a small electronic device (no visible text or symbols)

Eyelet embroidery

Traditional eyelet embroidery which previously had to be made laboriously by hand can now be made quite easily with

the help of an eyelet plate (special accessory).

This is very effective on blouses, bed or table linen. Use utility stitches such as the zigzag stitch, blind stitch, or elastic stitch. .

For classic eyelet embroidery, use stitch G (1540), E (1530/1520), with a stitch width 3-5

mm.

• Remove the presser foot. Set the presser bar lifter at the darning position (see page 37).
• Place the eyelet plate on the needle plate, making sure pin A fi ts in the middle cutout of the needle plate. Then push the plate down at the front.
• Place the marked fabric taut in an embroidery hoop. Cut one or two of the fabric threads and push the fabric over the pin in the eyelet plate. The fabric must fit snugly around the pin.
• Draw up the bobbin thread and hold it for the first few stitches.
• Stitch around the cut with the selected stitch. It is important to turn the fabric slowly and evenly. The stitches should be very close to each other.
  • Afterwards secure with straight stitch.

Folded fabric with geometric patterns displayed on a white surface, placed on a pink chair (no text or symbols visible)

Patchwork quilt

Patchwork and quilting are traditional handicraft techniques which were originally used by North American pioneer women to make use of left-over fabric. Over the years it has developed into a creative hobby.

Traditionally patchwork was sewn by hand. Today your creative ideas can be realized in a much shorter time with your select sewing machine.

A patchwork quilt consists of three layers of fabric, two layers of fabric with a layer of batting sandwiched between. Many pieces of fabric are joined together in patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is tacked to a middle layer of polyester or cotton batting and a backing layer.

The quilt and patchwork foot (special accessory – see page 63) is particularly helpful for sewing patchwork and quilting. The distance of the needle to the outer edge of the foot is 1/4 inch (6 mm) and 1/8 inch (3 mm) to the inner edge.

Abstract geometric pattern composed of overlapping triangles and zigzag textures in purple, pink, and blue tones (no text or symbols)

And this is how it's done:

- Cut the pieces necessary for your quilt top, making sure to include a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (6 mm).

- Sew the pieces together as required by the block chosen. These squares will then be sewn together and will form the top of the quilt.

- Baste the fi nished top of the quilt onto the batting and the bottom quilt layer.

- Use your Pfaff select model to sew all layers together. Work from the inside of the quilt out. Use a straight stitch for long seams. Use stitches such as FG or L stretch (select 1540) to add a decorative touch.

Experiment with other stitches on a scrap of fabric. Contact your Pfaff dealer, library, or bookstore for more information on quilting.

Hemstitch seam

The hemstitch seam is an embroidery technique and can be used to secure edges on table linen as well as for decoration on clothing. For hem stitching you will require a wing needle and natural fi ber, woven fabric that you can easily pull single threads. Lightweight darning thread is particularly suitable. With the stretch zigzag stitch you can sew various hemstitching techniques such as the wale hemstitch seam, a hem sewn with the hemstitch and a hemstitch seam as an edge. Use the decorative stitch foot 1.

Close-up of a textured fabric with a wavy seam and a horizontal seam, no visible text or symbols.

Cropped image showing a textured surface with faint vertical text and a small watermark at the bottom.

Hemstitching seam as edge

This edge is used for very fine, think materials. It is particularly suitable for valances and ruffles.

• Using the Stretch stitch (G/E), width 2-3 mm, sew at a presser foot's width along the edge of the fabric.
• Using a small pair of scissors, trim off the excess fabric on the hemstitch edge.

Hem edge sewn with hemstitch seam

• Iron the hem over twice and pull one or more threads out from above the hem.
• Using the stretch zigzag, stitch width 2-3 mm, sew the hem from the face side. The needle must perforate the hem on the right hand side and bundle the pulled threads on the lefthand side.

Close-up of a woven fabric with repeating zigzag pattern (no text or symbols)

Wale hemstitch seam

• As with the hand hemstitch seam the threads are pulled out to the desired width.
• Using stretch zigzag stitch, stitch width 2-3 mm, sew along both of the fabric edges. The needle must perforate the area of the pulled threads just next to the edges. This bundles the threads.

Accessories and needles Presser feet (normal accessories) 56-57 Special accessories table 58 Felling foot 59 Gathering foot 59 Cording foot 60 Bias-tape binder 61 Ruffl er 61 Cording foot 62 Appliqué foot 62 Fringe foot 63 Needle table 64-65

Metal mechanical component with two protrusions, displayed against a plain blue background (no text or symbols visible)

Presser feet (normal accessories)

0 Standard presser foot

Part No. 98-694 816-00 (pictured)

(select 1540 and 1530)

Part No. 96-694-847-00

(select 1520)

Close-up of a metallic mechanical component with two curved arms, placed on a blue background (no text or symbols visible)

1 Fancy-stitch foot (for top feed)

Part No. 98-694 814-00

(select 1540)

Close-up of a transparent plastic mechanical component with a metal fastener inserted (no text or symbols visible)

1 Clear view foot

(Fancy-stitch foot not suitable for top feed)

Part No. 98-694 864-01

Close-up of a white mechanical component with metallic fittings and a red handle, set against a plain blue background (no text or symbols visible)

3 Blind stitch and overlock foot

Part No. 98-694-890-00 (pictured)

(select 1540 and 1530)

Part No. 98-694 845-00

(select 1520)

Close-up of a metallic mechanical clip or clamp component against a solid blue background (no text or symbols visible)

4 Zipper-and edge-stitching foot

Part No. 98-694 884-00 (pictured)

(select 1540 and 1530)

Part No. 98-694 843-00

(select 1520)

Exterior view of a mechanical component with no visible text or symbols

5 Buttonhole foot

Part No. 93-036 990-91

Close-up of a small mechanical component with transparent end caps and a black body, against a plain blue background (no text or symbols visible)

6 Darning foot

Part No. 93-035 960-91 (select 1540)

Close-up of a metallic mechanical component with a U-shaped groove, resting on a light blue background (no text or symbols visible)

7 Hemmer

Part No. 98-694 818-00) (select 1540)

Metal L-shaped tool against a solid blue background (no text or symbols visible)

8 Edge guide

Part No. 98-802 422-00

Labeled diagram of medical or laboratory equipment parts, numbered 1 to 9, including tubes, caps, and a pipette.

1-3 Spool cap

1. Part No. 93-036 048-44
2. Part No. 93-035 050-44
3. Part No. 93-036 049-44

4 Brush

Part No. 93-847 979-91

5 Extra spool pin

Part No. 93-033 063-44

6 Seam ripper

Part No.99-053-016-91

7 Felt pad

Part No. 93-033 064-05

8 Oil tube

Part No. 93-035 910-91

9 Bobbins

Part No. 93-040 970-45

Presser feet (special accessory) for special sewing work. They are available at an extra charge from your dealer

Accessory Part No. Sewing work

Appliqué foot 93-042 941-91 For appliqué work
Open appliqué foot 93-036 931081
Bias tape binder 98-054 484-91 For binding edges with (remove foot holder) bias tape
Cording foot, 5 grooves 93-042 950-91 For cording work (twin needle with (needle size 80) needle spacing 1.6 to 2.0)
Cording foot, 7 grooves 93-042 953-91 (twin needle with needle spacing 1.6 to 2.0)
Cording tongue (2) 93-035 952-45
Fringe foot 93-042 943-91 For sewing loop embroidery
Straight-stitch foot with round hole 98-694 821-00 Caution! Only use straight stitch in center needle position!
Needle plate with round hole 98-694 822-00 For topstitching seams and sewing very light and soft materials (silk jersey etc)
Felling foot 4.5 mm 93-042 946-91 For lap-felled seams
Felling foot 6.5 mm 93-042 948-91
Gathering foot	93-036 998-91 For gathering valances
Multi-stitch gathering foot (remove sewing holder	98-999 650-00 For placing dense or loose pleats on valances
Cording foot	93-036 915-91 For cording
Eyelet plate (graphic) 6mm	93-036 947-45 For eyelet embroidery
Eyelet plate (graphic) 8 mm	93-036 948-45
Roll hemmer, 2 mm 98-694 873-00 For hemming edges
Hemmer, 4 mm (for top feed)	98-694 823-00 For hemming edges
Hemmer (not suitable for top feed)	98-694 818-00
Knit-edge foot	93-042 957-91 For sewing knitted fabrics
Darning foot	93-035 960-91 For darning damaged pieces
Tefl on foot	93-036 917-91 For sewing leather a. synth.
Decorative stitch foot	93-036 962-91 For embroidering leather a. synth
Compass guide	93-036 953-91 For circle-shaped embroidery
Fagotting guide	93-036 952-46 Foundation wear
Patchwork foot (without top feed)	93-036 925-91 Quilt and patchwork sewing
Patchwork foot (with top feed)	93-036 927-91
Cording decorative stitch foot	93-036 942-91 Sewing spaces between cor.
Braiding foot	93-036 936-91 For overstitching cords
7/9 hole foot	93-036 946-91 For sewing yarn and ribbon
Free-form embroidery foot	93-936 963-91 For embroidery work
Finger guard	93-036 910-91 All types of sewing
Lamp changer	93-036 960-91

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching light green fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

	stitch
1540	G	0	3	○	3-5	Felling foot
1530	E	0	3	○	3-5
1520	E	0	3		3-5

	stitch
1540	G	0	3	○	3-5	Shirring foot
1530	E	0	3	○	3-5
1520	E	0	3		3-5

Felling foot

Flat felled seams are particularly strong and are commonly known as jeans seams. Seams on sportswear and children's wear, blouses and shirts are more durable with this technique. You can make these seams particularly decorative by using a sewing thread of a contrasting color. The felling foot is available in two different widths.

• Attach the felling foot to the presser foot holder.
• Place the fabrics' wrong sides together.
• Overlap the raw edge of the lower fabric by about 3/8" to 5/8" (1-1.5 cm).
• Place this overlapping edge over the tongue of the felling foot. The fabric must be placed fully under the presser foot.
• Sew along the folded edge with a straight stitch.
• Separate the fabric and feed the protruding hem into the felling foot. The hem is turned over by the foot and is overstitched along the edge. Pull the two fabric layers taut during sewing.

Shirring foot

Beautiful gathering effects can be achieved quickly and easily with the shirring foot.

• Attach the shirring foot by hooking the rear bar of the foot into the rear groove of the foot holder. Push the foot upwards until it snaps into the front bar.
• Place the fabric to be gathered under the presser foot, and the fabric to remain fl at on the top through the foot cut out. Make sure the fabrics are placed right sides together.
• Hold the top fabric slightly taut while sewing. The more you hold the top fabric the greater the gathering effect you will achieve.
• Be sure to guide the fabric edges evenly through the foot.
• Disengage the shirring foot by pushing it down at the front and remove it in the direction of the groove of the presser foot holder at the back.

Tip: Tighter gathers can be achieved by increasing the needle thread tension and the stitch length.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching light green fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a striped fabric with a red plastic object and a transparent plastic clip attached (no text or symbols visible)

	stitch
1540	G	0	2,5	○	5	Shirring foot
1530	E	0	2,5	○	5
1520	E	0	2,5		5

Pintuck foot

This classic heirloom sewing technique can be easily applied to many types of fabric such as cotton and lightlinens. Undergarments, children's clothes and home decorating projects are given a nostalgic touch by pintucking.

• Attach the pintuck foot.
• Replace the sewing needle with a twin needle (e.g. 130/705 H-ZWI; 1.6 or 2.0 mm needle spacing; size 80).
• Thread the two needles (see page 11).
• Increase the bobbin thread tension by turning the adjusting screw of the bobbin case slightly to the right (see chapter on "Bobbin thread tension"). This will help to form well-defi ned pintucks.
• Sew your fi rst pintuck. When you start on the second pintuck, allow the fi rst pintuck to run parallel in a groove in the foot. This will produce evenly spaced pintucks.

Tip: If you would like to emphasize the pintuck effect, you can attach a cording tongue (optional accessory) on the front edge of the needle plate. The cording tongue pre-shapes the fabric during sewing and produces a more-defi ned pintuck.

For thin materials use the pintuck foot with 7 grooves and the small cording tongue, for heavier materials use the pintuck foot with 5 grooves and the large cording tongue.

Inserting a gimp thread creates a similar optical effect by making the pintuck appear even more raised.

A cording tongue is not used when inserting a gimp thread in your pintucks.

• Remove the needle plate.
• Thread the gimp thread from below through the hole at the center front of the needle plate.
• Replace the needle plate. The notch between the needle plate and the sewing machine provides space for the gimp thread while sewing. Feed the gimp thread under the work support so that it does not become knotted during sewing.
  • Gently pull the fabric taut while sewing the pintucks.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

	stitch
1540	G	0	2,5	○	3-5	Bia stape binder
1530	E	0	2,5	○	3-5
1520	E	0	2,5		3-5

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

	stitch
1540	G	0	3	○	3-5	Ruffler
1530	E	0	3	○	3-5
1520	E	0	3		3-5

Bias tape binder

Binding with bias tape is a very easy method of giving fabric edges a smooth and neat appearance. For this you need unfolded bias tape about 1" (2.5 cm) wide.

• Remove the presser foot and holder. Attach the bias binder.
• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at an angle.
• Feed the tape into the scroll of the binder and pull out to the back.
• Adjust the binder and/or the needle position so that the needle pierces the fabric approximately 1/16" (1-1.5 mm) from the folded edge of the bias tape.
• Stitch about 1" (2.5 cm) along the bias tape.
• Insert the edge of the fabric to be bound between the bias tape edges into the slot of the binder. The bias tape will enclose the raw edge automatically during sewing.

Tip: You can obtain an additional decorative effect by using a zigzag stitch.

Ruffler

With the ruffl er you can make closely or widely spaced pleats automatically while sewing. This is very useful for ruffl es, home decorating, etc.

The ruffl er can be used in three different ways:

1. Folding pleats in fabric.
2. Folding and securing pleats in fabric in one operation.
3. Folding and securing pleats in fabric, while attaching lace in one operation.

When you buy the ruffler from your PFAFF dealer, full operating instructions are included.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a blue fabric (no text or symbols visible)

	stitch
1540	C	2	0,35-1	○	3	Cording foot
1530	C	2	0,35-1	○	3
1520	C	2	0,35-1		3

	stitch
1540	G	2	0,35-1	○	2-3	Appliqué foot
1530	E	2	0,35-1	○	2-3
1520	E	2	0,35-1		2-3

Cording foot

Cording is a technique in which pearl thread or a fi ne cord is overstitched to produce a purl seam. With this you can obtain an effect similar to braiding.

• Attach the cording foot.
• Place the pearl thread in the foot so it leads through one of the grooves at the front and lies under the presser foot at the back.
  • Overstitch the pearl thread with a narrow satin stitch. This produces what is known as the purl seam.

Tip: You can also obtain a remarkable effect by overstitching a medium pearl thread with a thread of a different color.

Appliqué foot

Appliqués are easily sewn and always produce a beautiful effect. By using different materials and patterns you can create countless new designs. You can make a perfect, densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot, which has a special cutout on its sole for the satin-stitch seam.

• Attach the appliqué foot.
• Transfer your drafted pattern to the paper side of a fusible, paper-backed webbing. Remember that any letters or numbers have to be drawn as mirror images.
• Iron the fusible webbing onto the appliqué material. Cut out your motif and peel the paper from the back of the appliqué.
• Position and press your appliqué pieces in place on your base fabric.
• Place a stabilizer under your work area.
• Sew over the edges of the appliqué material with a narrow satin stitch zigzag. Make sure that the stitch covers the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching green fabric on a light blue surface (no text or symbols visible)

	stitch
1540	G	2	0,35-1	○	2-3	Fringe foot
1530	E	2	0,35-1	○	2-3
1520	E	2	0,35-1		2-3

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

	stitch
1540	G	0	0,25	●	4-5	Quilt & Patch-work foot
1530	E	0	0,25	●	4-5
1520	E	0	0,25		4-5

Fringe foot

With this special foot for fringe embroidery you can produce fantastic effects in no time.

• Mark your desired pattern with a fabric-marking pen.
• Place a piece of stabilizer under the fabric.
• Attach the fringe foot.
• Embroider the motif row by row. For circles you must work from the outside in.
• When using heavier threads, you should select a slightly longer stitch length. Always sew a test seam fi rst.
• When you have fi nished, pull the work carefully from the machine by holding the last loops. If you pull too quickly, you will pull the end loops fl at/tight.
• Knot the beginning and end threads on the reverse side.

1/4 inch Quilt and patchwork foot

A quilt consists of two layers of fabric with a layer of batting sandwiched between. Many geometric pieces of fabric are joined together in continually changing patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is tacked to a middle layer of polyester or cotton batting and a backing layer.

The 1/4 inch quilt and patchwork foot is particularly suitable for joining your pieces of fabric. The clearance between the needle and the outer edge of the foot is 1/4" (6 mm) and between the needle and the inner edge of the foot 1/8" (3 mm).

• Attach the 1/4 inch quilt and patchwork foot.
• Sew together your pieces of fabric using stitch G (1540)/E (1530, 1520). For a seam allowance of 1/4" guide your fabric along the outer edge of the foot. For a seam allowance of 1/8" guide your fabric along the inner edge of the foot.

Needle chart

Using the correct needle guarantees better stitching of the fabric.

Fabric weightlight

Needle60 70 75

Fabric weightmedium

Needle80 90

Fabric weightheavy

Needle100 110 120 130

System & No Profi le Point and eye

130/705 H Light ball point

Needle size:

60-130

130/705 H-SUK

Medium ball point

Needle size:

70-110

130/705 H-PS

Medium ball point

Needle size:

70-100

130/705 H-SKF

Heavy ball point

Needle size:

90-110

130/705 H-J

Acute ball point

Needle size:

90-110

130/705 H-LR

Narrow twist point

Needle size:

(cuts right)

70-100

130/705 H-PCL

Narrow twist point

Needle size:

(left twist groove)

80-110

130 N Light ball point

Needle size:

(long eye)

70-110

130/705 H-WING

Hemstitching point

Needle size:

100/120

130/705 H-M

Acute round point

Needle size:

60-80

130/705 H-Q

Light ball point

Needle size:

80/90

130/705 H-E

Medium ball point

Needle size:

80, 90

Suitable for

Universal needle for synthetics, fi ne linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy, woolens, velvet, decorative seams and embroidery work Coarse knitted fabrics, Latex, double-knit fabrics, hosiery, Quiana and Simplex

Stretch-fabric needle developed especially for Pfaff. Particularly suitable for delicate stretch and knitted fabrics Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex and Latex

Twill, work wear, heavy linen, blue jeans and light canvas

Leather, suede, calf and goatskin leathers

Imitation leather, plastic materials, plastic sheeting and oil cloth

Topstitched seams with buttonhole silk or No. 30/3 synthetic thread, metallic thread

Effective hemstitching on heavily dressed materials, organdy, glass cambric

Micro-fi ber woven fabrics

Topstitched seams for quilting

Embroidery work

Classifi cation Stitch Stitch Needle Suitable for length width

spacing

130/705 H-ZWI 2,5 mm - 1,6 mm normal pintucks

size: 80 2,5 mm - 2,0 mm

130/705 H-ZWI

size: 80 2,5 mm - 2,5 mm wide pintucks

size: 90 2,5 mm - 3,0 mm wide pintucks

size: 100 3,0 mm - 4,0 mm extra wide pintucks

Decorative sewing with twin needles

Before sewing the desired stitches, check whether needles can penetrate easily, by turning the handwheel. In this way, needle breakage is avoided as much as possible.

Zigzag sewing

Classification	Stitch length	Stitch width	Needle	Suitable for spacing
130/705 H-ZWI
size: 80	0,5-1,5 mm	wide	1,6 mm	decoration
size: 80	0,5-1,5 mm	narrow	2,0 mm	decoration
size: 80	0,5-1,5 mm	narrow	2,5 mm	decoration

Hemstitch / special twin needle

Classifi cation

Stitch length

Stitch width

Needle spacing

Suitable for

130/705

H-ZWI-HO

size: 80 2,3-3,0 mm very narrow –

size: 100 2,0-3,0 mm very narrow –

Decorative hemstitch effect embroidery. Well-fi nished woven fabric and fi ne batiste are particularly suitable.

Woman in white traditional-style outfit sitting on stone steps outdoors, no visible text or symbols

White PFAFF sewing machine with open base and internal components, set against a blue background (no visible text or symbols on the device itself)

Maintenance and trouble-shooting

Changing the needle plate 68

Cleaning and oiling 68

Replacing the sewing lamp 69

Trouble-shooting

70

Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to press fabric on a white base, with no visible text or symbols.

Changing the needle plate

Switch off the main switch

It is very important to clean and oil your sewing machine, because it will reward you with a longer service life. The more often you use the machine, the more care it needs.

Removal:

• Raise the sewing foot and remove the removable accessory tray.
• Push the point of a small screwdriver into the opening between needle plate and sewing machine. Twist it lightly to the right and the needle plate will snap half way out of its mounting. Now push the screwdriver into the left opening and take the needle plate out.

Replacing:

- Place the needle plate on fl at at the back and push it down with both hands at the front until you hear it snap in place. Before you start sewing, check that the needle plate is lying fl at.

Close-up of a sewing machine's front panel showing internal components and base (no visible text or symbols)

Cleaning and oiling

Switch off the main switch

• Remove the needle plate and lower the feed dog.
• Clean the feed dog and hook area with the brush.
• Apply a drop of oil (every 15 to 20 hours of operation) to the hook. You can see where to apply the oil in the illustration and on the provided oil bottle.

Otherwise, the machine is maintenance free and must not be oiled.

Close-up of a mechanical assembly with visible gears and components against a blue background (no text or symbols)

Changing the sewing lamp

Switch off the main switch

• Disconnect the mains plug and the foot control plug from the machine.
  • Take off the removable accessory tray (15).

The sewing lamp is located inside the left side of the sewing machine

Removal:

• Hold the sewing machine tightly.
• Push the lamp into its socket as far as it will go.
• At the same time, turn the lamp a half turn anti-clockwise and remove it.

Insertion:

• Insert the lamp in the diagonal socket and turn it so that both stops of the lamp engage.
• Now push the lamp fully into the socket and turn it clockwise so that it is held firmly.

Note: The lamp changer (available as a special accessory) will make changing the lamp much easier.

Important!

The maximum permissible wattage of the lamp with a plug-in socket is 15 watts!

Trouble-shooting

Problem:

Remedy:

The machine skips stitches

The needle is not properly inserted. Push needle fully upwards, fl at side facing the back.

The wrong needle is inserted Use a needle system 130/705 H.

Needle is bent or blunt. Insert a new needle.

Machine is not properly threaded. Check how machine is threaded.

Needle is too small for thread. Use a larger needle.

Needle thread breaks

See reasons above. See above.

Thread tension is too tight. Adjust thread tension.

Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has Only use good threads.

become dry after too-long storage.

Thread is too thick. Use needle with large eye (System 130 N).

Needle breaks off

Needle is not pushed fully in. Insert new needle and push fully in.

Needle is bent Insert new needle.

Needle is too thick or too thin See needle chart (page 64)

Needle is bent, and has hit the needle Let the machine feed the fabric.

plate because you are pulling or only guide the fabric lightly pushing the fabric.

The bobbin case is not properly installed. When you insert the bobbin case, push it fully into the stop.

Seam is sewn unevenly

The tension needs adjusting Check top and bottom tensions.

Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard Only use perfect threads

The bobbin thread is unevenly wound. Do not wind thread free-hand, but run it on through the winding tension.

Thread bunching at top or bottom Thread up correctly. Check needle and side of fabric bobbin thread tensions

Machine does not feed or feeds irregularly

Sewing lint has collected between the feed dog teeth rows Remove needle plate, remove lint with brush.

Feed dog is lowered, slide A (see page 27) Push slide B (see page 27) to left. at right.

Machine is running with difficulty

There are thread remnants in the hook race Remove the threads and apply one drop of oil to the hook.

Important note:

Before you replace sewing feet or needles, you must switch off the main switch.

Do not start the threaded machine without fabric in it.

If you leave the machine, even for a short time, do not forget to switch off the main switch. This is important if children are nearby.

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