hobby 4260 - Sewing machine PFAFF - Free user manual and instructions
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USER MANUAL hobby 4260 PFAFF
Instructions for use
For easier understanding of this instruction manual please fold this or the last page out when reading.

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Warning symbol image with exclamation mark inside a triangleSafety rules
For the United Kingdom only
The leads must definitely not be connected to the safety lead terminal I nor to a plug with three pins.
The wires in the mains lead are coloured according to the following code:
Blue: Neutral
Brown: Live
As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colour coding of the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows:
The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or coloured black.
The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter L or coloured red.
Cut-off mains plugs are definitely not to be used, but disposed of immediately. Defective mains leads must be replaced completely.
Only 3 A spare fuses must be used as approved by ASTA according to BS 1362 and the fuse cover must be marked 3 A or with the corresponding colour code.
The plug must never be used without fuse cover. Spare fuse covers are available from electrical suppliers or the PFAFF agencies.
Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2.
You will find the contents on page 4 and 5

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Warning symbol image with exclamation mark inside triangleImportant safety instructions
For the United States and Canada only
When you use an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be adhered to as follows: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
- The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning it.
- Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
- Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
- Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
- Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.
- Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
- Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
- Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
- Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
- Do not use outdoors.
- Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
- To disconnect, turn all controls to off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet.
- Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked.
- Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
- Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
- Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
- Do not use bent or blunt needles. Use needles recommended by the manufacturer only.
- Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
- Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
- Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2.
Keep these instructions in a safe place
This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only.

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 PFAFF 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 10 11 12 13
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21 PFAFF 30 29 28 27 26 23 24 25 22Parts of the sewing machine hobby 4260
1 Bobbin winder tension
2 Thread guide
3 Needle thread tension
4 Carrying handle
5 Bobbin pins
6 Bobbin winder
7 Stitch-width adjustment dial
8 Hand wheel
9 Hand wheel release disc
10 Stitch-length adjustment dial
11 Reverse key
12 Connection bushing
13 On/off switch
14 Baseplate
15 Detachable work support with accessory box
16 Needle plate
17 Presser foot holder with presser foot
18 Thread guide
19 Thread guide
20 Threading slots
21 Take-up lever
22 Needle holder with retaining screw
23 Presser foot lifter
24 Stitch pattern adjustment knob
25 Stitch pattern chart
26 Free-arm cover (enclosing sewing hook)
27 Feed dog
28 Needle bar
29 Sewing lamp
30 Thread trimmer

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Warning symbol image with exclamation mark inside a triangleNotes on safety
Notes on safety for domestic sewing machines according to DIN 57 700, Section 28 or IEC 335, Section 28.
- The user must exercise adequate caution with regard to the up and down moving of the needle and constantly observe the sewing area during work.
- When leaving the machine, during maintenance work or when changing mechanical parts or accessories, always disconnect the machine from the mains by pulling out the mains plug.
- The maximum permissible wattage for the sewing lamp is 15 Watts.
- The tension of the drive belt must only be adjusted by a Pfaff mechanic.
- The machine must be put into operation according to the indications on the specification plate.
- Do not place any objects in openings on the machine.
- Do not use the sewing machine if:
- there is visible damage,
- its function is disturbed,
- it is wet, e.g. with condensation.
- Do not pull the mains plug out of the socket by its cord.
- If this appliance is used for another purpose than intended or if it is wrongly operated, we will not accept any liability for any damage caused.
- To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not open the machine. There are no parts inside the machine which the user can repair. This is solely the responsibility of our qualified service staff.
- Be sure to use only original PFAFF parts.
Environment
The recommended environment is: Ambient temperature 10°C to 40°C, Humidity 20% to 80%.
This sewing machine is a high-quality electronic-mechanical appliance; it is a machine for supervised use in the home. It should be operated in such a way that it is not subjected to: dust, severe dampness, direct sunlight, static electricity, heat-producing objects, corrosive chemicals or liquids.
For ventilation purposes the machine must be used on a free surface, which is both firm and even.
Treatment
Always protect the machine against damage which night occur by hitting or dropping it.
Cleaning
Housing:
To clean the housing, use a dry, clean and soft cloth which is free of fluff. To remove any stubborn dirt, use a soft cloth with alcohol or paraffin.
Please Note!
Do not use any insecticides or chemical products such as petrol (gas) or thin chemicals for cleaning the housing.
Effective and modern sewing
Congratulations! You have purchased a product of the highest quality which offers you unique benefits. Your new sewing machine can deal with almost any material and will sew through thick and thin for you.
The design and technology used on this machine are state-of-the-art and you will find that these instructions are just as easy to use as your PFAFF sewing machine itself.
If you take the time to read through the instruction booklet carefully, nothing can go wrong.
It's worth it! Because this is the only way to really find out about all of the options your machine has to offer and how to make the most of them.
If you should have any questions – No problem! Your PFAFF specialist is always happy to help.
So go for it! And have fun making your fashion ideas a reality.
Contents
| Accessories and needles. | 53 - 60 |
| Accessory compartment. | 11 |
| Adjusting stretch stitches. | 25 |
| Attaching buttons. | 31 |
| Bias tape binder. | 56 |
| Blind-stitch foot. | 29, 30 |
| Bobbin case. | 14, 15 |
| Bobbin thread tension. | 15 |
| Bobbin winding. | 12, 13 |
| Buttonhole. | 36, 37 |
| Changing the needle. | 20 |
| Changing the presser foot. | 19 |
| Cleaning and oiling. | 62, 63 |
| Closed overlock stitch. | 34 |
| Control panel. | 21 |
| Control pedal. | 10 |
| Cording foot. | 57 |
| Covering the feed dog. | 20 |
| Darning. | 42, 43 |
| Darning plate. | 20 |
| Darning tears. | 43 |
| Detachable work support. | 11 |
| Drawing up the bobbin thread. | 18 |
| Edge guide. | 28 |
| Elastic blind stitch. | 30 |
| Elastic stitch. | 33 |
| Elastic stitches. | 30, 35 |
| Electrical connection. | 10 |
| Foot control. | 10 |
| Free arm. | 11 |
| Gathering with the elastic thread. | 41 |
| Gathering with the straight stitch. | 40 |
| General sewing aids. | 28 |
| Handwheel release disc. | 12, 13 |
| Hem with the twin needle. | 38 |
| Hem-stitching. | 52 |
| Honeycomb stitch. | 33 |
| Knit-edge foot. | 58 |
| Lace. | 47 |
| Lap feller. | 57 |
| Left needle-position. | 29 |
| Light bulb. | 63 |
| Linen buttonhole. | 37 |
| Linen buttonhole with gimp thread. | 37 |
| Lubrication. | 62 |
| Mounting the bobbin. | 13 |
| Multi-stitch gathering attachment. | 56 |
| Needle chart. | 59, 6 |
| Needle position. | 29 |
| Needle thread tension | 20, 28 |
| Non-elastic stitches | 39 |
| Notes on safety | 1 |
| On/off switch | 10 |
| Open overlock stitch | 34 |
| Overlock stitches | 34 |
| Patches | 42 |
| Patchwork quilt. | 51 |
| Practical sewing | 27 - 48 |
| Presser feet (special accessories) | 55 |
| Presser feet (standard accessories) | 54 |
| Presser foot lifter | 18 |
| Quilt and patchwork foot. | 58 |
| Removing the needle plate | 63 |
| Reverse sewing. | 22 |
| Richelieu. | 50 |
| Serging with the blind stitch foot | 29, 30, 34 |
| Serging with the zigzag stitch | 29 |
| Servicing and trouble shooting | 61 - 64 |
| Setting the utility stitches | 24 |
| Sewing lamp | 63 |
| Sewing on zippers. | 44, 45 |
| Shell edging | 48 |
| Smocking | 39 |
| Special accessory chart | 55 |
| Spring stitch | 35 |
| Stabilizing | 46 |
| Stitch chart | 6 - 8 |
| Stitch density | 22 |
| Stitch length adjustment button | 23 |
| Stitch width adjustment button | 23 |
| Straight stitch | 29 |
| Stretch triple straight stitch | 32 |
| Stretch triple zigzag stitch | 32 |
| Thread trimmer. | 18 |
| Threading the machine | 17 |
| Threading the needle thread | 16 |
| Topstitching. | 28 |
| Trouble shooting | 64 |
| Trouble shooting | 64 |
| Twin needle. | 23, 38 |
| Unlocking the hook | 62 |
| Utility stitch chart | 6 - 8 |
| Zigzag stitch | 29 |
hobby 4260 - Stitch chart
| B | E | F | G | H | I | K | L | E | F | G | H | I | K | L |
| A | ||||||||||||||
| C | ||||||||||||||
| D |
For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch-length adjustment button (10).
| Program | Name | Application |
| B/AC/D | Buttonhole | Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen |
| E | Straight stitch | For all straight stitch and lockstitch work up to 4 mm |
| F | Zigzag stitch | For serging and appliqué |
| G | Elasticstitch | For stitching on elastic band, darning tears and patches |
| H | Elastic blind stitch | For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous serging |
| I | Decorativ elastic stitch | For overstitching two touching fabric layers |
| K | Greek stitch | A classical decorative stitch e.g. for borders and towels |
| L | Shell-edging stitch | For decorative hems on fine materials, e. g. linen |
| III E | Stretch triple straight stitch | For stretch seams, e. g. crotch seams on sport and workwear |
| III F | Stretch triple zigzag stitch | For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials |
| III G | Honeycomb stitch | For sewing on elastic threads, overlocking towelling and for decorative hem seams |
| III H | Florentine stitch | A decorative stretch stitch |
| III I | Spring stitch | For overstitching two touching fabric layers. Also for stretch fabrics. |
| III K | Closed overlock stitch | A closing and serging seam for fraying materials |
| III L | Open overlock stitch | A closing and serging seam for stronger, non-fraying materials |
hobby 4250 - Stitch chart
| B | E | F | G | H | I | K | L | E | F | G | H | I | K | L | |
| A | - | - | < | > | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | |
| C | - | - | < | > | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | |
| D | - | - | < | > | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### | ### |
For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch-length adjustment button (10).
| Program | Name | Application |
| B/AC/D | Buttonhole | Standard buttonhole for e. g. blouses and bed linen |
| E | Straight stitch needle position middle | For all straight stitch and lockstitch work up to 4 mm |
| F | Straight stitch, needle position left | For all sewing and topstitch work requiring a left needle position |
| G | Zigzag stitch | For serging and appliqué |
| H | Elastic stitch | For stitching on elastic band, darning tears and patches |
| I | Elastic blind stitch | For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous serging |
| K | Greekstitch | A classical decorative stitch e. g. for borders and towels |
| L | Shell-edging stitch | For decorative hems on fine materials, e. g. linen |
| III E | Stretch-3fach-Geradstich Nadelposition mitte | For stretch seams, e. g. crotch seams on sport and workwear |
| III F | Stretch triple straight stitch needle position left | For stretch seams requiring a left needle position |
| III G | Stretch triple zigzag stitch | For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials |
| III H | Honeycomb stitch | For sewing on elastic threads, overlocking towelling and for decorative hem seams |
| III I | Florentine stitch | A decorative stretch stitch |
| III K | Closed overlock stitch | A closing and serging seam for fraying materials |
| III L | Open overlock stitch | A closing and serging seam for stronger, non-fraying materials |
hobby 4240 - Stitch chart
For these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch-length adjustment button (10).
| Program | Name | Application |
| B/AC/D | Buttonhole | Standard buttonhole for e. g. blouses and bed linen |
| E | Straight stitch | For all straight stitch and lockstitch work up to 4 mm |
| F, G | Zigzag stitch in various widths | For serging and appliqué |
| H | Elastic stitch | For stitching on elastic band, darning tears and patches |
| I | Elastic blind stitch | For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous serging |
| III E | Stretch triple straight stitch | For stretch seams, e. g. crotch seams on sport and workwear |
| III F, G | Stretch triple zigzag stitch in various widths | For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials |
| III H | Honeycomb stitch | For sewing on elastic threads, overlocking towelling and for decorative hem seams |
| III I | Florentine stitch | A decorative stretch stitch |

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Black-and-white photo of a PFAFF sewing machine with control knobs and a base (no visible text or symbols on the device body)Operating the machine
| Electrical connection | Page 10 |
| Detachable work support | Page 11 |
| Free arm | Page 11 |
| Bobbin winding | Pages 12, 13 |
| Bobbin case | Page 14 |
| Bobbin thread tension | Page 15 |
| Threading the needle thread | Page 16, 17 |
| Drawing up the bobbin thread | Page 18 |
| Presser foot lifter | Page 18 |
| Thread trimmer | Page 18 |
| Changing the needle | Page 19 |
| Needle thread tension | Page 20 |
| Covering the feed dog | Page 20 |
| Control panel | Page 21 |
| Reverse sewing | Page 21 |
| Stitch length adjustment button | Page 22 |
| Stitch width adjustment button | Page 23 |
| Setting the utility stitches | Page 24 |
| Setting the stretch stitches | Page 25 |

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White rectangular object resembling a folder or container, placed on a plain surface (no text or symbols visible)Carry case
The carry case, which is part of the basic equipment, protects your sewing machine from dust and damage during transport.

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Hand operating a PFAF sewing machine (no visible text or symbols on the device body)Carrying handle
This can be raised by lightly pressing the round groove in the carrying handle (4).

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Close-up of a white electronic device with a black cable inserted into the port, showing no visible text or symbols.Electrical connection
Connect the plug of the foot pedal to the connection bushing (12) on the sewing machine and the electrical socket. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the foot pedal.

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Close-up of a hand inserting a plug into a device outlet (no visible text or symbols)On/off switch
The sewing lamp lights up when the on/off switch (13) is turned on. The machine is now ready to sew.
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way. For this sewing machine, model 4240, 4250, 4260 foot controller type YC-482-3 has to be used.

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Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine (no visible text or symbols)Accessory compartment
Open the detachable work support (15).

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Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine with a box, no visible text or symbolsDetachable work support
Using both hands, swing the detachable work support (15) to the left.

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Black-and-white photo of electronic devices and tools on a surface (no visible text or symbols)Organizing the accessories
Lay the enclosed accessories into the accessory compartment.

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Close-up of hands using a sewing machine to lift or press a white block on a wooden surface (no visible text or symbols)Removing the detachable work support/free arm
In order to be able to sew with the free arm, you must swing the detachable work support to the left and lift it out of the hole.
When removing and inserting the detachable work support, be careful to ensure that it is flush with the free arm of the sewing machine.

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Close-up of hands operating a circular mechanical device with a ring (no visible text or symbols)Preparing the machine for bobbin winding
Hold the handwheel (8) and press the handwheel release disc (9) to the "bobbin" symbol. This stops the needle from moving while the machine is winding the bobbin.

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Close-up of a white car interior with a decorative fan and circular button, no visible text or symbolsMounting the bobbin
Switch off the on/off switch (13)
Place the empty bobbin onto the pin of the bobbin winding mechanism and press it down as far as possible. Pull the bobbin to the right as far as it will go.
Note: It is only possible to wind the bobbin when it is positioned as far to the right as possible.

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Top-down view of a sewing machine with visible brand mark and control knobs (no readable text or symbols)
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Diagram of a mechanical device with directional arrows indicating motion, no readable text or symbols presentWinding the bobbin
Pull the spool holder (5) up and place a spool on it.
Place the thread clockwise into the bobbin winder tension (1) and run it to the bobbin. There the thread is passed through a hole and held tight. Turn the on/off switch (13) on and press the foot pedal.
Let go of the thread after a few revolutions. As soon as the bobbin is full the bobbin winding procedure stops automatically. Press the full bobbin to the left, remove it from the pin and cut the thread.
Don't forget:
Press the handwheel release disc (9) back to the "sewing" symbol and turn the handwheel (8) towards you until it clicks into place.
Bobbin winder tension
The thread is passed through the bobbin thread tension (1) in a clockwise direction and crosses over itself on the way to the bobbin.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a fabric, with a gloved hand adjusting the part (no visible text or symbols)Hook cover
Switch off on/off switch (13)
Hold the side of the hook cover (26) and open it towards you.

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Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine needle, no visible text or symbolsRemoving the bobbin case
Raise the bobbin case cover and pull out the bobbin case. Release the cover and remove the bobbin.

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Close-up of hands holding a small mechanical component, possibly a tool or tool, with no visible text or symbols.To ensure perfect sewing and a durable seam, the top and bottom thread-tensions must be well adjusted to each other and the threads must be interlaced between the two fabric plies. The interlacing should be visible underneath the bottom ply when sewing decorative seams, button-holes and darning.

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Technical diagram showing three sequential steps of a sewing machine tool, labeled A through G, with mechanical components and assembly details.Inserting the bobbin
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case. In doing so, pull the thread through the slit A, then under the tension plate B until it lies in the opening (see arrow).
Checking the bobbin thread tension
Hold the thread protruding from the bobbin case and pull the thread upwards sharply. The bobbin case must drop down the thread during this movement.
Adjusting the setting:
Using the screwdriver from the accessories, turn setting screw C to the left – the bobbin thread tension becomes weaker.
Turn setting screw C just a little to the right - the bobbin thread tension becomes stronger.
Inserting the bobbin case
Open cover D and slide the bobbin case onto the hook pin E as far as it will go. The bobbin case finger F must point into cutout G.
Check:
Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.

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PFAFF 21 2 B 19 18 hot Th Sw Pu th th Th sh U b p d b u t lThreading the needle thread
Switch off the on/off switch (13).
Pull the spool holder (5) up and mount the thread. Raise the presser foot lifter (23). Turn the handwheel until the take up lever (21) and the needle are at their highest point.
The black arrows on the sewing machine show you the correct path for the thread.
Using both hands, pull the thread from the back to the front into the thread guide (2) and pass it downwards through the right threading slot (20). Pass the thread around lug (B) back upwards through the left threading slot up to the take up lever (21). The thread is threaded through the take up lever from right to left. Now pass the thread downwards and lay it from the right hand side behind thread guide (19) and thread guide (18).

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Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to adjust or install a component (no visible text or symbols)Threading the needle
Thread the needle thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)Presser foot lifter
The presser foot is raised and lowered with the presser foot lifter (23).

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Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine needle, no visible text or symbolsDrawing up the bobbin thread
Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle returns to its highest position and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, with gloved hand visible (no text or symbols)Bobbin thread
Close the hook cover (26) and pass the thread under the presser foot to the left.

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30Thread trimmer
Pull the thread forwards over the thread trim-mer (30).

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PFAFF holbwoodDisengaging the presser foot Switch off the on/off switch (13).
Raise the needle to its highest position. Press the front of the presser foot up and the rear of the presser foot down until it clicks out of the presser foot holder (17).

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)Engaging the presser foot
Lay the presser foot underneath the presser foot holder (17) so that the pins of the foot click into the presser foot holder when the presser foot lifter (23) is lowered.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a dark base (no visible text or symbols)Check:
Please ensure that the presser foot is correctly in place by raising the presser foot lifter.

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Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle (no visible text or symbols)
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AChanging the needle
Switch off the on/off switch (13).
Removal: Lower the presser foot and raise the needle to its highest position. Loosen the needle retaining screw (22) and remove the needle by pulling it downwards.
Insertion: The flat side of the needle A must be facing the rear. Lower the presser foot and insert the needle by pushing it upwards as far as possible. Hold the needle and tighten the retaining screw (22).

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PFAFF
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Mechanical testing setup with a clamp and base plate (no visible text or symbols)Adjusting the needle thread tension
Turn the needle thread tension (3) to the desired setting.
The normal setting for sewing is between 4 and 5 and for sewing buttonholes between 2 and 3 (see page 28).
Darning plate
For certain sewing procedures such as sewing on buttons, the feed dog (27) must be covered with the darning plate to stop the fabric being fed. Place the darning plate over the feed dog (27). The narrow half of the darning plate must be facing the front.

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Front view of a sewing machine with visible brand name 'PFAFF' and control knobs (no readable text beyond branding)Control panel
The left adjustment button (24) with the letters is for selecting the buttonhole. With the lower right adjustment button (10) you can adjust the stitch length, the buttonhole spacing and the stretch stitches.
Only on model 4260:
Only on model 4260: With the upper right adjustment button (7) you can vary the zigzag width from 0 to 5 mm and on the straight stitch E you can alter the needle position. Furthermore, a limited area is also provided for sewing with the twin needle.

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Close-up of two industrial control switches with a hand pressing a button (no visible text or symbols)Reverse sewing
The machine sews in reverse only as long as the reverse sewing key (11) is pressed.
Stitch length adjustment button
With the stitch length adjustment button (10) you can adjust the stitch length infinitely between 0 and 4 mm by turning the point marking on the button to the required length.

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Two identical industrial control panel cases with rotary dials and a sliding switch, no visible text or symbols."Buttonhole" symbol
Between the numbers 0 and 1 you can find the "buttonhole" symbol. This area is the optimum stitch density for sewing buttonholes. The further you turn the dial to 0, the denser the stitch becomes.
"Stretch" symbol
To sew the stretch stitches on the black background you must turn the stitch length adjustment button (10) clockwise to the symbol "stretch".

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hobby 4260 B A C D E F G H I K L 1 X 7 2 3 4Stitch width adjustment button
(only on model 4260)
(only on model 4260) With the stitch length adjustment button (7) you can infinitely adjust the width of the zigzag stitch from 0 to 5 mm by turning the point marking on the button to the required width. When sewing with the straight stitch E you can vary the needle position from "middle" to "right" by turning the adjustment button.

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Close-up of a vintage sewing machine with visible brand name and rotary knob (no readable text beyond branding)"Twin needle" symbol
(only on model 4260)
Important: Only use the twin needle for straight and zigzag stitches!
Above the stitch widths 0 and 1 you will find the symbol "twin needle". If you wish to sew the zigzag stitch with the twin needle, the stitch width must not exceed 2 mm. Turn the
point marking on the adjustment button (7) to a width which is underneath the "twin needle" symbol.
Note: For zigzag sewing, the twin needle must not be wider than 2 mm and when sewing the straight stitch not more than 3.5 mm.

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B A C D E F G H I K L 5 4 3 2 0 E B A C D K 7 0 1. 2. 3. 4Setting utility stitches
All stitch patterns that you can sew with your machine are illustrated in the stitch pattern chart. (25) Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (24) you set the desired stitch by turning the (25). Using the stitch pattern adjustment, it is that the required letter is directly underneath the point marking.

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Black-and-white photo of a sewing machine with control knobs and a labeled body (no readable text or symbols beyond branding)Adjusting the stretch stitches
Adjusting the stretch stitches All of the stitches on the black background are stretch stitches, i.e. they are cut off. All of the stitches on the following line. Turn the stitch length adjustment button (10) to the "stretch" symbol. fabrics. Turn the stitch long with a stitch with the stitch pattern adjustment button (24).

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Pure black vertical line on white background (no text or symbols)
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Black-and-white photo of a person sitting on the ground, wearing formal attire (no visible text or symbols)Utility stitches and practical sewing
General sewing aids
Non-elastic stitches
Elastic stitches
Sewing on buttons
Overlock stitches
Buttonhole
Hem with the twin needle
Smocking
Gathering
Darning
Sewing on zippers
Stabilizing edges
Sewing lace
Shell edging
Page 28
Page 29
Pages 30, 32, 33, 35
Page 31
Page 34
Pages 36, 37
Page 38
Page 39
Pages 40, 41
Pages 42, 43
Pages 44, 45
Page 46
Page 47
Page 48

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PFAFF
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F CNeedle thread tension
To ensure a perfect sewing result the needle and bobbin thread tensions must be perfectly tuned to each other. The normal setting for utility stitches is between 4 - 5.
Check the tension with a broad zigzag stitch. The threads must be interlaced between the two fabric plies.
If the needle thread tension is too high, the threads are interlaced above the top fabric ply. If the needle thread tension is too low, the threads are interlaced below the lower fabric ply.
The adjustment of the bobbin thread tension is described on page 15.
Topstitching with the edge guide (special accessories)
For broad topstitching work we recommend using the edge guide. This accessory guarantees topstitching which is parallel to the edge of the fabric. The edge guide is inserted into hole C and held their with retaining screw F.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)Sewing aid for thick seams
To ensure a consistent feed when beginning sewing we recommend placing the presser foot on a piece of fabric which is the same height as the workpiece.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching dark fabric, no visible text or symbolsStraight stitch
Program E is the basic straight stitch with the needle position middle. The stitch length can be lengthened up to 4 mm.
Basic straight stitch with needle position "left" (only models 4260 and 4250)
Some sewing processes can be carried out more easily by altering the needle position. E.g. topstitching a collar or sewing on a zipper.
Model 4260:
- Select straight stitch E and set the stitch width adjustment button (7) to "0".
Model 4250:
- Select stitch F.
Please ensure that the needle is at its highest position when adjusting its setting.
Zigzag stitch
Model 4260:
- Select stitch F. With the stitch width adjustment button (7) you can vary the width between 0 and 5 mm.
Model 4250:
Select stitch G.
Model 4240:
Select stitch F (2 mm) or G (4 mm).

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Technical diagram of a mechanical assembly with labeled parts A, B, and CBlind stitch foot no. 3 is particularly suitable for serging difficult materials. While sewing, the thread passes over bar C thus preventing the fabric edge from rolling up. This ensures a good, smooth seam.
The trimmed edge must be guided along stop B. You can adjust the stop with retaining screw A.
Be careful to ensure that when serging the fabric edges the needle perforations alternate between entering the fabric and next to the fabric when overstitching.

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Close-up of a mechanical device with a circular dial and lever mechanism (no visible text or symbols)
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Close-up of a textured surface with a vertical wavy line on the right edge (no text or symbols)Elastic blind stitch
The elastic blind stitch is especially suitable for invisible hems; sewing by hand is no longer necessary. It is equally suitable for both stretch and non-stretch fabrics.
The hem is sewn and serged simultaneously. i.e. an extra serging of the fabric edge is not necessary.
- On materials which fray strongly, serge the hem edge separately.
- Fold the hem width inwards.
- Now lay the hem back outwards so that the hem edge protrudes by about 1 cm.
- Now lay the fabric underneath the presser foot so that the crease line runs along the red guide.
— The needle must catch only one texture yarn when entering the fabric in the crease line.
4260: stitch H 4250/40: stitch I

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Black-and-white photo of a spacecraft or rover on a launch pad, with no visible text or symbols.
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Black-and-white photo of a vintage sewing machine with no visible text or symbolsSewing on buttons
For sewing on buttons, the presser foot must be removed and the feed dog must be covered with the darning plate.
- Select the 4 mm zigzag stitch (model 4260: stitch F, stitch width adjustment button at 4: model 4250 and 4240: stitch G)
— Turn the handwheel towards you and move the button in such a way that the needle enters the right hole in the button. - Now lower the presser foot lifter; this holds the button off the blade.
- Now sew on the button. Take care to ensure that the needle also enters the right hand hole in the button.
— Knot the thread ends on the reverse side.
Sewing on buttons with a button shank
- Insert the presser foot.
— Place a match between the holes in the button and sew as described in the left hand column on this page.

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Diagram showing two mechanical components with curved arrows indicating motion or force direction (no text or symbols)- Remove the match and pull the fabric and the button apart.
- Wrap the shank with the sewing thread and knot it.

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Close-up of a curved, textured surface with a smooth black line (no text or symbols)Stitch E stretch

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Pure zigzag line pattern without any text, numbers, or symbols4260/4240: Stitch F stretch 4250: Stitch G stretch
Stretch triple straight stitch
With this program, all seams which require a high level of durability are sewn: e.g. crotch seams.
Stretch triple zigzag
The stretch triple zigzag is a very elastic and decorative seam which is particularly suitable for T-shirts and underwear.
- Serge the fabric edge.
- Fold over the desired hem width.
- Topstitch the hem from the face side.

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Microscopic view of parallel dark bands with a wavy top line above (no text or symbols)4260: Stitch G 4250/4240: Stitch H

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Black background with a faint, wavy line pattern at the bottom (no text or symbols)4260: Stitch E 4250/4240: Stitch H
Elastic stitch
Because of its high elasticity, this stitch is used for sewing on elastic band, e.g. on underwear.
- Cut off the old elastic band close to the fabric edge.
- Gather the fabric with the 4 mm long straight stitch (c.f. page 40).
- Slide the workpiece between the elastic band or lay it underneath it and pin it down.
- Sew it on using the elastic stitch. Allow the ends of the elastic band to overlap a little and overstitch with the elastic stitch.
- On skirts and trousers, the elastic tape is sewn onto the edge which has been prepared as above, using the elastic stitch.
Honeycomb stitch
The honeycomb stitch is an elastic and decorative hem which is particularly suitable for hems on underwear and T-shirts.
- Fold the hem over double and overstitch it.


What is an overlock stitch?
For elastic and knitted materials, the hobby models 4250 and 4260 offer overlock stitches which sew two fabric layers together and serge simultaneously. They are more elastic than normal seams, very durable and easy and fast to sew.
Tip: We recommend using blind stitch foot no. 3 when sewing overlock seams. It guides particularly well and prevents the seam puckering even on broad seams.
Stitch K stretch
(only models 4250 and 4260)
Closed overlock stitch
With this stitch you can sew jersey quality perfectly. You can also sew on sleeve cuffs and knit collars.
Tip: Ensure that the sleeve cuff is stretched while it is being sewn.
Stitch L stretch
(only on models 4250 and 4260)
Open overlock stitch
With this stitch, thicker materials and fabrics which do not fray strongly can be sewn together perfectly.
Tip: Ensure that the needle sews the right hand stitch just next to the material and not in it.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle and fabric (no visible text or symbols)
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Abstract pattern of repeating dot textures with a vertical black line dividing them into two sections (no text or symbols)Stitch I stretch
(only on model 4260)
Spring stitch
With the spring stitch you can sew elastic materials with an effect similar to that of hem stitching, e.g. corsetry. The benefit of this stitch is that the seam lies flat.
- Serge the fabric edges and baste them over.
- Lay the edges to be sewn underneath the pressing foot at a distance of about 3 mm.
- Overstitch from the reverse side, ensuring that the needle perforates the material both right and left.
Buttonholes
Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all of the hobby models because the fabric does not have to be rotated. To make sewing buttonholes even easier we recommend the buttonhole foot (special accessories).
Generally, buttonholes are sewn into lined, doubled fabric. However, it is necessary to additionally line some materials such as silk, organza and viscose with backing paper so that the fabric does not gather when being sewn.
Avalon (from Madeira) is also very good for this purpose. This is a special type of fleece which dissolves in water. On materials such as velvet and thick wool fabrics which feed poorly it can be used either on or underneath the fabric. The material is thus fed more efficiently by the machine and buttonholes are much easier to sew.
Embroidery and darning threads are particularly good for sewing attractive seams.
Using a magic marker or pin, mark the starting points of the buttonholes and always sew a test buttonhole first.
Note:
Before every buttonhole you must slide the runner of the buttonhole foot (special accessories) forwards as far as it will go, i.e. the red arrow is at the first red line. The red markings are 0.5 cm apart. They give you a yardstick for determining the length of the buttonhole.

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A single black rectangular object on a textured gray background, resembling a stylized brush or tool (no text or symbols visible)
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Close-up of a mechanical device with labeled parts A and B (no visible text or symbols on the device itself)
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Close-up of a black and white object with a looped end, possibly a connector or connector (no visible text or symbols)Program B/AC/D Stitch length symbol "buttonhole" Sewing buttonholes with zhe buttonhole foot
Linen buttonhole
- Insert the buttonhole foot and slide the foot forwards as far as it will go.
- Position the pattern adjustment dial at B and sew the first buttonhole seam in the desired length.
- Then, with the setting AC, sew a few stitches for the bartack. You have to hold the fabric while doing this.
- Then select the letter D and sew the second buttonhole seam in the reverse direction and in the same length.
- Then set AC again and sew a few bartack stitches while holding the fabric.
Model 4240:
Knot the thread ends on the reverse side.
Model 4250:
- Adjust to the straight stitch setting F (left needle position) and sew a few tying off stitches.
Model 4260:
- Adjust the setting to straight stitch E and select the left needle position by turning the stitch width adjustment dial (7) to 0.
- Saw a few tying off stitches.
- Cut open the buttonhole with the aid of a pair of scissors or a slitting knife.
Linen buttonhole with gimp thread
To sew especially durable buttonholes, e.g. on sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread.
On elastic materials the gimp thread is particularly important to prevent the buttonhole from stretching.
- Lay the gimp thread over the rear protrusion A and pass the thread ends underneath the presser foot towards the front.
- Clamp the threads to the left and right of protrusion B.
- Slide the buttonhole runner as far forwards as possible and sew the buttonhole as described in the left hand column.
- Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the buttonhole and cut the threads.
Sewing buttonholes with the standard presser foot 0
Linen buttonholes
- Mark the beginning and end points of the buttonholes on the fabric.
- Proceed as described in the section "Sewing buttonholes with the buttonhole foot".
- When sewing the second buttonhole seam, do not sew further than the beginning point.

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Close-up of a textured surface with vertical striations and a horizontal line (no text or symbols)
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PFAFFHem with the twin needle
Topstitching work can be carried out on normal and stretch Materials with the twin needle.
Professional hems on T-shirts, knitwear and cycling shorts can be sewn quickly and easily with the twin needle. The twin needle is available in various widths. Please ensure that you use the jersey needle for stretch fabrics!
The twin needle must not be broader than 3.5 cm when sewing with the straight stitch (with the zigzag stitch not more than 2.0 mm) to avoid needle breakages.
- First iron over the width of fabric desired for the hem.
- Then topstitch the hem from the face side.
- Finally cut the protruding hem edge back to the seam.
Tip: On difficult materials such as ribbed knit-wear it is advisable to baste the hem before topstitching it.
Threading the twin needle
- Place a spool on both of the spool stands.
- Simultaneously pass both of the threads through the thread guide marked with the arrows. In the right thread slot, one of the threads must pass to the right and the other to the left of the tension disc C.

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Mechanical sewing machine with clasp and base mount (no visible text or symbols)- Lay the threads behind the thread guides (18) and (19) and thread one of the threads into each of the right and left needles.

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Black-and-white photo of a sewing machine stitching fabric, no visible text or symbolsSmocking effect with elastic threads
Fine, light fabrics such as Batist, viscose and silk are especially suitable for beautiful smocking work. For smocking work with the elastic thread you should use an additional bobbin case and wind it by hand with the elastic thread. As the elastic thread is much stronger than the normal bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin case must be set at very low. Don't forget however, the higher the bobbin thread tension, the more intense the gathering effect.
- Sew a test seam to determine the level of gather.
- Mark the first line on the face side of the fabric and sew along it.
- Each additional seam can be sewn at a presser foot's width from the first row.
- When sewing several seams next to one another, you must stretch the fabric to its original length when sewing the subsequent seams. Otherwise the gather will be irregular.
- Knot the threads at the beginning and end of the seam on the reverse side.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols
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Black-and-white abstract pattern with vertical streaks and textured gradients (no text or symbols)Gathering with the straight stitch
With the program E you can gather sleeves, skirts and valances with a stitch length of 4 mm. To ensure a regular gathering effect you should sew two or three rows of gathering.
- Mark the first line on the face side of the fabric and sew along it. Allow the threads to protrude approx. 10 - 20 cm.
- Each subsequent seam can be sewn one presser foot width from the last.
- Gather the piece of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. You determine the amount of gather by how much you pull the thread.
- Finally the thread ends are knotted to secure the gather.

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Mechanical device with mounted components and a curved base (no visible text or symbols)
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Microscopic view of a polymer chain with repeating units (no text or symbols visible)4260: Stitch G stretch
4250/4240: Stitch H stretch
Gathering with the elastic thread
Sleeve and waist seams can be gathered with ease using an elastic thread. The elastic thread does not have to be wound onto the bobbin.
- Mark the first gathering seam on the reverse side of the fabric.
- Sew a few stitches using the honeycomb stitch and leave the needle in the fabric. The needle must be in the middle of the presser foot. Raise the presser foot and lay the elastic thread around the needle.
- Lower the presser foot and sew a few stitches. Then pull the elastic thread evenly at both ends.
- You determine the amount of gather by the amount you pull the threads.
- The gather can also be altered after sewing by pulling the ends of the elastic threads.
- Finally, knot the threads and the elastic.
Tip: The cording foot (special accessories) is particularly suitable for gathering. Due to its guide grooves the elastic is fed evenly during the sewing process.


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Scanned text of contract clauses with partial company name and signature fields4260: Stitch G
4250/4240: Stitch H
Darning with the elastic stitch
Darning with the elastic stitch is especially suitable for repairing damaged areas.
- Sew over the damaged area in rows until it is well covered. Take care to ensure that the rows overlap.
Sewing on patches
To cover larger holes well, it is necessary to sew a new piece of fabric onto the damaged area.
- Baste the new piece of fabric onto the damaged area of the face side of the fabric.
- Sew over the fabric edges with the elastic stitch.
- Now cut the damaged area back to the seam from the reverse side of the fabric.
Tip: To simplify turning the corners of the patch, turn the handwheel until the needle is in the fabric. Then raise the presser foot and turn the fabric.

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Pure electrical circuit lines without any symbolsRepairing tears
On tears, frayed edges or small holes it is useful to lay a piece of fabric under the reverse side of the fabric. The underlayed fabric reinforces the workpiece and ensures you a perfect repair.
- Lay a piece of fabric underneath the material. It must always be a little larger than the damaged area.
- Now sew over the damaged area in accordance with the size of the tear.
- Cut the underlayed piece of fabric back to the seam.

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Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with two views (top and side), no text or symbols present.Sewing on zippers
There are various methods of sewing on zippers. For skirts we recommend the bilaterally concealed zipper, for men's and ladies, trousers the unilaterally concealed zipper. The market offers various zippers. We recommend using a metal zipper for strong fabrics such as denim. For all other materials we recommend a plastic zipper.
It is important for all types of zipper to sew very close to the edge of the teeth of the zipper. This is why it is possible to insert the zipper foot either on the right or the left of the presser foot holder.
If the zipper foot is inserted into the left side of the presser foot holder you can additionally use the needle position "left" on models 4250 and 4260.

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Black-and-white photo of a sewing machine needle inserted into a mountainous landscape (no visible text or symbols)Bilaterally concealed, sewn in zipper
- Insert the zipper foot on the right hand side.
- Baste in the zipper and lay it underneath the presser foot so that the teeth of the zipper run alongside the foot.
- Stitch in half of the zipper, leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and close the zipper.
- Now you can continue sewing the seam up to the end of the zipper and sew the lateral seam.

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Black-and-white photo of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols- Sew the second half of the zipper parallel at the same distance.
- Stop after the first half and leave the needle in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and open the zipper.
- Now you can finish sewing the seam.

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Black-and-white illustration of a sewing machine needle and base (no text or symbols visible)
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Close-up of a sewing machine needle inserted into a dark liquid channel, no visible text or symbolsThe trouser zipper
- Iron over the seam allowances, taking care to ensure that the underlap protrudes by about 4 mm.
- Baste the zipper under the underlap so that the teeth are visible.
- Insert the zipper foot on the right hand side and move the needle to the correct position.
-
Sew along the edge of the zipper.
-
Just before the end of the seam, open the zipper and finish sewing the seam.
- Close the zipper and baste the overlap evenly to the other half of the zipper.
- Then sew through the basted seam.
Tip: To achieve a perfect seam, we recommend using the edge guide (special accessories).

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Black-and-white photo of a spacecraft landing on the moon, showing its solar panels and deployed arm (no visible text or symbols)Stabilizing edges
With the hemmer (special accessories) you can stabilize blouses, silk cravats and valances with ease, without having to pre-iron the fabric edges. The hemming prevents the edges from fraying and a clean, durable edge is the result.
- Fold the beginning of the fabric edge over twice (each approx. 2 mm).
- Lay the folded fabric edge underneath the hemmer and sew a few stitches with the straight stitch E. Stitch length 2.5 - 3 mm.
- Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and insert the hemmer foot scroll into the fabric.
- Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric edge evenly into the hemmer. Take care to ensure that the fabric does not run under the right half of the presser foot.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle and fabric (no visible text or symbols)Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fabrics, the roll hem is particularly attractive with a zigzag stitch.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric on grass (no visible text or symbols)
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Abstract black-and-white pattern with diagonal bands and textured edges (no text or symbols)Inserting lace
You can achieve a beautiful effect by inserting lace, e.g. on baby and children's clothing.
- First the lace is basted onto the face side of the fabric.
- Sew on both sides of the lace at a narrow margin.
- The fabric underneath the lace is cut down the middle and ironed to the side.
- Sew over both edges of the lace with a small, dense zigzag stitch.
- Cut back the extra fabric.
Attaching lace
You can beautify and remodel home textiles with an appropriate lace over and over again.

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Black and white decorative border with floral patterns on a dark vertical line and a solid black rectangle at the bottom (no text or symbols)And here's how it's done:
- First serge the cut edges.
- Sew the lace onto the face side of the fabric up to the first corner.
- Fold the corner and sew over it diagonally.
- Process all the following sides in the same way.

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Decorative corner frame with white floral patterns on black background (no text or symbols)
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Black and white abstract texture with no discernible text, symbols, or structured elements
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Close-up of a textured surface with a wavy white line and small dark spots, no visible text or symbols.Only on models 4260 and 4250: Stitch L
Shell edging
The shell edge is especially attractive on thin, soft fabrics such as silk and viscose. It is often used as an edging on underwear. The higher the needle thread tension, the deeper the shell edge feed.
- Serge the fabric edge and iron over the seam allowance.
- Take care that the fabric only runs half underneath the presser foot while sewing. This intensifies the effect of the shell edging.
Tip: By sewing a coloured woollen thread into the seam you strengthen the shell edge while also creating an attractive contrast in the seam. A fine fabric of another colour can also be used instead of a woollen thread.

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Black-and-white photo of a smiling young girl sitting on her side, wearing a black outfit with a teddy bear logo (no text or symbols visible)Traditional embroidery techniques
Richelieu
Patchwork quilt
Hemstitch seam
Page 50
Page 51
Page 52

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Close-up of a textured, flared surface with a circular inset showing a dark object (no text or symbols visible)Richelieu
This especially artistic form of eyelet and insert embroidery is easy to sew with your sewing machine.
- Using a magic marker, draw your motif onto the face side of the fabric.
- Then place two layers of Avalon fleece underneath the parts to be embroidered and clamp both the fabric and the fleece into an embroidery frame.
- Insert foot number 0.
- To lend more durability to the embroidery, sew all of the contours twice using the straight stitch (stitch length approx. 1 mm).
- Then carefully cut out the fabric from the areas which are to be hollow, 2 mm next to the contour. The fleece must not move.
- Embroider the contours with a dense zigzag stitch.
- Due to the embroidery fleece, this part of the work is much more stable and strong.
- Finally, simply dissolve the embroidery fleece in cold water and your one-off design is finished.

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Black-and-white photo of a textured sculptural object resembling a horse or abstract form, displayed on a surface (no visible text or symbols)
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Black-and-white photo of a person in traditional attire, possibly a historical or modern scene, with no visible text or symbols.Patchwork quilt
Patching and quilting are traditional handicraft techniques which were originally used by north American pioneer women to make use of leftover fabric. Over the years it has developed into a creative hobby.
Patchwork quilts used to be sewn exclusively by hand. Nowadays, however, you have the possibility to make your creative ideas a reality in a much shorter time.
A patchwork quilt always consists of three layers of fabric:
A number of geometric pieces of fabric are combined in different variations to create a patchwork which forms the top of the quilt. This is then basted to a fleece layer and then sewn onto the back of the quilt which usually consists of one piece of fabric. The entire quilt is often bound by this bottom layer.
And here's how it's done:
- Using your own or commercially available templates, cut the pieces you need for your patchwork. The templates should include a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (0.63 cm).
- Spread these pieces out in front of you in accordance with the pattern and form small squares which you can then put together. These squares will then be sewn together and will form the top ply of the quilt.
- The seam allowances are not serged when quilting, but rather they are to be smoothed down, never ironed!
- Baste the finished top ply of the quilt onto the fleece insert and the bottom quilt layer.
- Traditionally, these three fabric layers are sewn together with small manual stitches - this procedure is faster and more practical with a sewing machine, e.g. with the straight stitch or the program I stretch (only on model 4260). Always sew approximately 3mm next to the seam. Use foot number 0 or the quilt and patchwork foot (see page 58).
You can then continue to sew your quilt, making it into a cushion, a wall hanging or a bedspread.

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Close-up of a woven fabric with repeating black and white helical patterns (no text or symbols)4260: Stitch F stretch 4250/4240: Stitch G stretch
Hemstitch seam
The hemstitch seam is an old embroidery technique and can be used to secure edges on table linen as well as for decoration on clothing. For your hemstitching work you will require a wing needle and coarse linen out of which you can easily pull the single threads. Furthermore, the darning and patching thread is particularly suitable. With the stretch zigzag stitch you can sew various hemstitching techniques such as the wale hemstitch seam, a hem sewn with the hemstitch and a hemstitch seam as an edge. Use the normal presser foot.
Wale hemstitch seam
- As with the hand hemstitch seam the threads are pulled out to the desired width.
- Using a narrow stretch zigzag stitch, sew along both of the fabric edges. The needle must perforate the area of the pulled threads just next to the edges. This bundles the threads.

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Close-up of a textured fabric with a wavy seam and a dark band at the bottom (no text or symbols)Hem edge sewn with hemstitch seam
- Iron the hem over twice and pull one or more threads out from above the hem.
- Using the stretch zigzag stitch, sew the hem from the face side. The needle must perforate the hem on the right hand side and bundle the pulled threads on the left hand side.

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Close-up of a textured fabric with a dotted line at the bottom edge (no visible text or symbols)Hemstitch seam as edge
This edge is used for very fine, thin materials. It is particularly suitable for valances and ruffles. No threads have to be pulled.
- Using the stretch zigzag stitch, sew at a presser foot's width along the edge of the fabric.
- Using a small pair of scissors, trim off the excess fabric on the hemstitch edge.

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Black-and-white photo of scattered cleaning and repair tools including tape measure, scissors, and tools on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)Accessories and needles
Presser feet (normal accessories)
Special accessories chart
Bias-tape binder
Multi-stitch gathering attachment
Felling foot
Single-needle cording foot
Knit-edge foot
Quilt and patchwork foot
Needle chart
Page 54
Page 55
Page 56
Page 56
Page 57
Page 57
Page 58
Page 58
Page 59, 60

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Metal mechanical component with a circular end and stepped base, resting on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)Presser feet (normal accessories)
0 Standard presser foot
Part no.: 98-694 847-00

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Top-down view of a mechanical component with no visible text or symbols3 Blind-stitch foot
Part no.: 98-694 845-00

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Close-up of a metallic mechanical component with a circular mark on its side (no visible text or symbols)4 Zipper foot
Part no.: 98-694 843-00

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Abstract dark shape on a textured gray background, no text or symbols visibleDarning plate

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Black-and-white photo of five different dental tools and a black circular component on a plain background (no text or symbols visible)Screwdriver
Brush
Oil tube
Knife
Felt discs (2 x)
Presser feet (special accessories)
The special accessories are for special sewing work. They are available from your dealer.
| Special accessories | Part no.: | Sewing operation |
| Decorative cording foot | 93-036 942-91 | The spaces of the cording con be embroidered. |
| Cording foot, 5 grooves (twin needle with needle gauge 1.6 - 2.0) | 93-042 950-91 | For sewing cording |
| Cording foot, 7 grooves (twin needle with needle gauge 1.6 - 2.0) | 93-042 953-91 (needl. thickn. 80) | |
| Straight stitch foot with round needle hole | 98-694 821-00 | Attention! Only use straight stitch with needle position middle. |
| Finger guard | 93-036 910-91 | For all sewing work |
| Edge guide | 98-802 422-00 | For topstitching |
| Felling foot 4.5 mm | 93-042 946-91 | For lap-felling seams |
| Felling foot 6.5 mm | 93-042 948-91 | For lap-felling seams |
| Clear-view foot | 98-694 864-00 | Multiple uses e.g. for buttonholes |
| Buttonhole roller | 98-694 882-00 | For sewing buttonholes |
| Multi-stitch gathering attachment (remove presser foot holder) | 98-999 650-00 | For sewing dense or broard pleats on valances etc. |
| Single-needle cording foot | 93-036 915-91 | For cording |
| Quilting foot | 93-036 925-91 | For sewing patchwork parts and quilting |
| Roll hemmer 2 mm | 98-694 873-00 | For hemming edges |
| Roll foot | 91-046 703-93 | For materials which are diff. to feed (e.g. leather) |
| Hemmer foot 4 mm | 98-694 823-00 | For hemming edges |
| Hemmer foot 3 mm | 98-694 818-00 | For hemming edges |
| Bias-tape binder (remove presser foot holder) | 98-053 484-91 | For binding edges with bias tape |
| Knit-edge foot | 93-042 957-91 | For sewing together knitwear |
| Teflon foot | 93-036 917-91 | For sewing leather |
On the following pages you will find examples of the use of some of the special accessories.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)
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Black-and-white photo of a spacecraft landing on the moon, showing its arm and deployed components (no visible text or symbols)Bias-tape binder
Binding with a bias tape is a simple way of lending fabric edges a smooth, clean appearance. You will need: bias tape, 24 mm wide, unfolded.
- Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder and screw on the tape binder.
- Cut diagonally across the beginning of the bias tape.
– Guide the tape into the pouch of the tape binder and pull it out towards the back. - Set the tape binder in such a way that the needle perforates 1 - 1.5 mm from the folded bias-tape edge or alter the needle position.
- Sew a few centimeters along the bias tape with the straight stitch before laying the trimmed edge which is to be bound into the slot of the tape binder. The trimmed edge must be inserted between the band. The bias tape automatically wraps around the edge of the fabric automatically during the sewing operation.
Tip: You can achieve an additional effect by using the zigzag stitch.
Multi-stitch gathering attachment
The classic of all the presser feet! You have the choice of whether you wish to lay dense or broad pleats. The multi-stitch gathering attachment offers three options for use:
- Laying pleats in fabric.
- Laying pleats in fabric and sewing them simultaneously.
- Laying pleats in fabric and sewing lace onto them simultaneously.
The foot comes with a detailed description when you buy your multi-stitch gathering attachment at you PFAFF dealer.

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Black and white photo of a sewing machine needle stitching dark fabric (no visible text or symbols)
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Black-and-white photo of a spacecraft landing on a lunar surface, showing its trajectory and mission path (no text or symbols visible)Felling foot
Felling seams are decorative and durable. Therefore, they are especially suitable for sportswear and children's wear, men's shirts and jeans. These seams are particularly attractive when you use sewing threads of contrasting colours.
- Lay the pieces of material together, reverse side to reverse side.
- Let the trimmed edge of the bottom ply protrude by about 1 - 1.5 cm.
- Now lay this protruding edge over the tongue of the felling foot. The fabric must be laid totally under the presser foot.
- Now sew over the folded edge with the straight stitch (stitch length 2.5 - 3 mm).
- Then pull the fabric layers apart and insert the raised hem into the felling foot. The hem is folded over by the foot and the edge is sewn over. Pull the pieces of fabric apart while sewing them.
Single-needle cording foot
Cording is a technique by which an embroidered purl seam results from embroidering over bead yarn or a fine filler cord. This allows you to achieve a similar effect to that of soutache braiding. This raised purl seam also makes appliqué work more expressive.
- Draw the desired motif onto the fabric. Try to avoid tight curves and sharp points.
- Insert the single-needle cording foot and lay the gimp thread into the front left groove of the presser foot. Then lay the gimp thread into the rear groove under the sole of the presser foot.
- Using the stitch-pattern adjustment knob (24), select the buttonhole symbol B. Set the stitch length to the "Buttonhole" symbol.
- Now stitch over the gimp thread with the narrow, dense zigzag stitch. The so-called purl seam results.
Tip: You can achieve a special effect by embroidering over a medium sized bead thread with a sewing thread of a different colour.

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Black-and-white photo of a mechanical device with a textured surface and a small inset image showing a person (no visible text or symbols)Knit-edge foot
As the knit-edge foot has two presser foot soles of differing height, thick knitted fabrics can be sewn with ease. To do so select the open or the closed overlock stitch. To ensure a perfect seam on fashioned workpieces, we recommend sewing a woollen thread under slight tension along with the thread while simultaneously sewing over it.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)Quilt and patchwork foot
When using the quilt and patchwork foot, always sew the pieces of fabric with the required seam allowance of 1/4 or 1/8 inch because the distance from the needle to the outer right edge of the foot is 1/4 inch (0.63 cm) and to the inner right edge 1/8 inch (0.31 cm).
Patching
- Insert the quilt and patchwork foot.
- Sew the pieces of fabric together with the straight stitch. When working with 1/4 inch seam allowance, guide the piece of fabric along the outer right edge of the foot. When working with 1/8 inch guide the fabric along the inner right edge of the foot.
Quilting
(sewing through the top layer, fleece layer and bottom layer of the quilt)
- Sew the three fabric plies (e.g. with the straight stitch) approx. 3 mm next to the seam (see page 51).
Needle chart
Using the right needle ensures the optimal sewing of the material.
| Fabric weight: light Needle size 60 70 75 | Fabric weight: medium Needle size 80 90 | Fabric weight: heavy Needle size 100 110 120 | ||
| Needle points | ||||
| System and needle size | Profile | Point and eye | Suitable for | |
| 130/705 H Needle thickness: 70/80 | Small ball point | Universal needle for fine-meshed synthetics, fine linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy, woollens, velvet, fancy seams and embroidery work. | ||
| 130/705 H-SUK Needle thickness: 70/110 | Medium ball point | Coarse knitted fabrics, Lastex, interlock, Quiana and Simplex | ||
| 130/705 H-PS Needle thickness: 75 + 90 | Medium ball point | Stretch-fabric needle, specially developed for Pfaff. Particularly suitable for delicate stretch and knitted fabrics. | ||
| 130/705 H-SKF Needle thickness: 70/110 | Large ball point | Wide meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex and Lastex. | ||
| 130/705 H-J Needle thickness: 90-110 | Acute round point | Twill, workwear,heavy linens, denim and light canvas. | ||
| 130/705 H-LR Needle thickness: 70-120 | Narrow twist point (cuts right) | Leather, suede, calf and goatskin. | ||
| 130/705 H-PCL Needle thickness: 80-110 | Narrow wedge point left twist groove (r. left) | Imitation leather, plastics and oil cloth. | ||
| 130 H-N Needle thickness: 70-110 | Small ball point, long eye | Seams topstitched with buttonhole silk or no. 30/3 synthetic. | ||
| 130/705 H-WING Needle thickness: 100 | Hemstitching point | Attractive hemstitching seams on heavily dressed materials, Organdy and glass cambric. | ||
| System and needle size | Stitch length | Stitch width spacing | Needle | Suitable for | |
| 130/705 H-ZWI Thickness: 80 | 2,5 mm2,5 mm | -- | 1,6 mm2,0 mm | Normal cording Normal cording | |
| 130/705 H-ZWI Thickness: 80Thickness: 90Thickness: 100 | 2,5 mm2,5 mm3,0 mm | -- | 2,5 mm3,0 mm4,0 mm | Wide cording Extra wide cording | |
| Decorative designs with twin needles Before sewing your desired design, turn the handwheel and check to see if the needles perforate the fabric properly. This helps to prevent needle breakages. | |||||
| Decorative and zigzag patterns | |||||
| 130/705 H-ZWI Thickness: 80Thickness: 80Thickness: 80 | 0,5 - 1,5 mm0,5 - 1,5 mm0,5 - 1,5 mm | Wide Narrow Narrow | 1,6 mm2,0 mm2,5 mm | Ornamentation Ornamentation Ornamentation | |
| Hemstitch/special double needle | |||||
| 130/705 H-ZWI-HO Thickness: 80Thickness: 100 | 2,3 - 3,0 mm2,0 - 3,0 mm | Very narrow Very narrow | -- | Decorative hemstitching effect.Heavily dressed materials and glass cambric are particularly suitable | |

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Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to adjust or install a small electronic device (no visible text or symbols)Maintenance and trouble shooting
Cleaning and oiling
Removing the needle plate
Replacing the sewing lamp
Trouble shooting
Page 62
Page 63
Page 63
Page 64

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a circular component, with no visible text or symbols.Unlocking the hook
To unlock the hook, fold open the black bar of the hook race.

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Close-up of a hand operating a microscope with a glass lens (no visible text or symbols)Pull the hook cover ring out towards you.

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Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to press or install a small electronic device (no visible text or symbols)You can now remove the hook.

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Close-up of a gloved hand holding a small object near a microscope (no visible text or symbols)Cleaning and oiling
- Clean the hook race with the brush.
- Then place one drop of oil into the hook race (every 15 - 20 hours of operation).
The machine is maintenance-free and must not be oiled at any other points.

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Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine with tools and components nearby (no visible text or symbols)Removing the needle plate
Raise the presser foot holder (23) and click out the presser foot. The needle must be at its highest position.
- Remove the detachable work support (15). Loosen the two screws with the screwdriver and lift the needle plate (16).
- Now clean the feed dog with the brush.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle with visible mechanical components (no text or symbols)Replacing the sewing lamp.
Switch off the on/off switch (13).
- Pull the plug of the foot pedal out of the machine.
- Remove the detachable work support (15). The sewing lamp is in the head of the machine.

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Hand operating a sewing machine with a black handle (no visible text or symbols)To simplify changing the sewing lamp, we recommend laying the sewing machine on the handwheel (8) as shown.
Hold on to the machine and twist the lamp out of its socket. Now you can insert a new lamp and screw it into place.
Important! The maximum permissible wattage of the sewing lamp is 15 Watts.
Trouble shooting
Problem:
Solution:
1. The machine skips stitches.
The needle is not inserted properly.
Push the needle up as far as it will go.
The wrong needle is inserted.
With the flat side facing the rear.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Insert needle system 130/705 H.
Insert a new needle.
The needle is too fine for the thread.
Check the correct threading of the machine.
Insert a thicker needle.
2. The needle thread breaks
Due to the above reasons.
See above.
When the thread tension is too tight.
Adjust the thread tension.
When the thread quality is poor or slubbed,
Only use high quality thread.
or when the thread has become too dry due
to being in storage too long.
Insert a needle with a large eye
When the thread is too thick.
(system 130 N).
3. The needle breaks
The needle is not inserted as far as possible.
Insert the new needle as far as it will go.
The needle is bent.
Insert a new needle.
The needle is too thin or too thick.
Observe the needle chart (page 59, 60).
The needle is bent due to the fabric being
Allow the machine to feed the material alone.
pulled causing it to hit the needle plate.
Only guide the workpiece lightly.
When inserting the bobbin case,
The bobbin case is not inserted correctly.
push it into place as far as possible.
4. The seam is not regular
The tension is poorly adjusted.
Check the needle and bobbin thread tensions.
The thread is too thick, slubbed or hard.
Only use perfect thread.
The bobbin thread is wound unevenly.
Do not wind the bobbin without allowing
Thread loops above or below the stitch.
the thread to run through the bobbin
winder tension.
Thread the machine properly.
Check the needle and bobbin thread tensions.
5. The machine does not feed or feeds unevenly
Lint has collected between the teeth of the feed dog.
Remove the needle plate and remove
the lint with the brush.
6. The machine does not run easily.
There are pieces of excess thread
Remove the unwanted threads and place
in the hook race.
one drop of oil in the hook.
Important notes:
Before changing the presser foot or needle, the on/off switch must be switched off.
The machine must not be operated without a workpiece when threaded.
Always switch off the on/off switch when leaving the machine unattended, even for short periods.
This is particularly important when children are in the vicinity.
Parts of the sewing machine hobby 4250, 4240
1 Bobbin winder tension
2 Thread guide
3 Needle thread tension
4 Carrying handle
5 Spool stand
6 Bobbin winder
8 Handwheel
9 Handwheel release disc
10 Stitch length adjustment button
11 Reverse key
12 Connection bushing
13 On/off switch
14 Base plate
15 Detachable work support with accessory compartment
16 Needle plate
17 Presser foot holder with presser foot
18 Thread guide
19 Thread guide
20 Threading groove
21 Take-up lever
22 Needle holder with retaining screw
23 Presser foot lifter
24 Stitch pattern adjustment button
25 Stitch pattern chart
26 Hook cover (hook inside)
27 Feed dog
28 Needle bar
29 Sewing lamp
30 Thread trimmer

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1 2 3 4 5 6 PFAFF 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 8 9 10 11 12 13
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G. M. Pfaff
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