hobby 1016 - Sewing machine PFAFF - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL hobby 1016 PFAFF

Close-up of a sewing machine with visible brand name 'PFAFF' and model number 'Hobby 1016' (no additional text or symbols)

Instruction manual

PFAFF hobby 1016 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

PFAFF hobby 1016 28 29 27 26 25 23 22 21 20 19

Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1016

1 Thread guide
2 Bobbin winder tension
3 Needle thread tension
4 Adjustment field
5 Spool holder
6 Bobbin winder
7 Handwheel
8 Stitch pattern chart with presser foot
9 Pattern adjustment button
10 Reverse key
11 Connection bushing
12 Master switch
13 Detachable work support with accessory box
14 Needle plate
15 Thread guide
16 Thread guide
17 Thread cutter
18 Threading slot
19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook)
20 Presser foot holder with presser foot
21 Free-arm
22 Feed dog
23 Needle holder with fixing screw
25 Thread guide
26 Presser bar lifter
27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W)
28 Take-up lever
29 Carrying handle

Please fold this page open to simplify the understanding of this instruction manual when reading it.

Index on pages 4 - 5

Sewing for fun

hobby

Congratulations! You have bought a quality product made by Pfaff which is sure to bring you countless hours of sewing pleasure. Your new sewing machine features the very latest in design and technology. Furthermore, it has numerous practical features which will make sewing much easier for you.

Your sewing machine is as simple to operate as this instruction manual is to follow. Before you start sewing, please take the time to read these instructions carefully. It is certainly time well spent, and is the best way to find out just what your machine can do and make full use of all its features.

If you have any further questions, just ask your Pfaff dealer, who will be happy to assist you with help or advice.

We wish you many enjoyable hours creating your very own fashion ideas.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

For the United States only

This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only. When you use an electric appliance, the following basic safety precautions should always be adhered to: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing sewing light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 5 Watts.
3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4. Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Great care is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.
2. Only use this sewing machine for its intended purpose as described in this manual. Only use attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert anything into any opening.
6. Do not use out of doors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to off ("0") position, then remove plug from socket.
9. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked.
10. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, hold the plug, not the cord.
11. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
12. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
13. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Only use needles recommended by the manufacturer.
14. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
15. Switch the sewing machine off ("0") when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
16. Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

Please also observe the general safety notes on Page 3.

KEEP THESE INSTRUCTIONS IN A SAFE PLACE

Notes on safety for domestic sewing machines

The machines meet the relevant safety requirements.

1. The user must exercise adequate caution with regard to the up-and-down movement of the needle and constantly observe the sewing area during work.
2. When leaving the machine, during maintenance work or when changing mechanical parts or accessories, always disconnect the machine from the main power by unplugging the lead cord from the wall outlet.
3. The maximum permissible wattage for the sewing lamp is 15 watts.
4. An authorized PFAFF mechanic only must adjust the tension of the belt drive.
5. The machine must be put into operation according to the indications on the specification plate.
6. Do not insert any objects into openings on the machine.

7. Do not use the machine if:

8. there is visible damage

9. its' functioning is disturbed.

10. it is wet, i.e. condensation which can occur when a cold machine is installed in a warm room.

11. To unplug lead cord from wall socket, grasp the plug close to the wall. Do not pull the main plug out of the wall socket by the cord.

12. If the appliance is used for the wrong purpose or incorrectly operated, no liability can be accepted for any possible damage.
13. To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not open the machine. There are no parts inside the machine that the user can repair. This is solely the responsibility of our qualified service staff.
14. Be sure to use only PFAFF original parts.
15. The machine is designated for a mains supply with a nominal voltage of +/- 10 % and a rated frequency of +/- 4 %.
16. When used properly, the temperature of the outer components of a non-electronically controlled foot control can reach up to 85°C. Constant use at a low speed is therefore not permitted in order to avoid damage.
17. According to the laws concerning electromagnetic compatibility, no liability can be accepted for any mains interruptions caused, should the mains power line be changed or should changes be made to it.

Environment

The recommended environment is:

Ambient temperature 50°F (10°C) to 104°F (40°C)

Humidity: 20% to 80%. Storage temperature - 13°F (- 25°C) to +140°F (60°C).

The machine is insensitive to interference, but it should not be used in the direct vicinity of electronic appliances such as radios, televisions, personal computers, radio transmitters, etc.

This machine is a high quality electronic-mechanical appliance. It is a machine for supervised use in the home. It should be operated in such a way that it is not subjected to: dust, severe dampness, direct sunlight, static electricity, heat-producing objects, corrosive chemicals or liquids.

For ventilation purposes, the machine must be used on an unobstructed, solid, level surface.

Treatment

Always avoid damage to the machine by protecting it against hitting or dropping.

Cleaning

Housing:

For cleaning the housing use a dry, clean, soft lint-free cloth. To remove any stubborn dirt, use a soft cloth with alcohol.

Please note!

Do not use any insecticides or chemical products such as petrol (gas) or low-viscosity chemicals for cleaning the housing.

Index

A		F
Accessories and needles	41	Feed dog, lowering	18
Accessory compartment	9	Felling foot	45
		Foot control	8
		Free arm	9
B
Bias tape binder	44
Bobbin case	12-13	G
Bobbin thread tension	13	Gathering with the straight stitch	30
Buttonholes	26-27	General sewing aids	22
Buttons	24

C		Handwheel, releasing	10
Changing the needle	18	Hemming with the twin needle	28
Changing the sewing lamp	51	Hook, removing	50
Cleaning and oiling	50
Control panel	19
Cording foot	45	K

H
Handwheel, releasing	10
Hemming with the twin needle	28
Hook, removing	50
K
Knit-edge foot	46

D
Darning	31	L
Detachable work support	9	Lace-work	35
Drawing up the bobbin thread	16	Linen buttonhole	27
		Linen buttonhole with gimp thread	27
E
Edge guide	22	M
Elastic stitch	25	Maintenance	49
Electrical connection	8	Master switch	8

E
Edge guide	22	M
Elastic stitch	25	Maintenance	49
Electrical connectionN	8	Master switchSetting utility stitches	820
Needle charts	47-48	Sewing feet (normal accessories)	42
Needle plate, removing	51	Sewing feet (special accessories)	43
Needle thread tension	22	Sewing lamp	51
		Sewing on patches	31
		Sewing problems and their solutions	52
O		Shell edging	36
Oiling the machine	50	Smocking	29
Optional accessories		Special accessories chart	43
		Spool placement	10
		Stitch chart	6
P		Straight stitch	23
Patchwork quilt	39-40
Practical sewing	21
Presser bar lifter	15	T
		Thread cutter	16
		Thread tension	12
Q		Threading	14-15
Quilt and patchwork foot	46	Threading the needle thread	14
		Topstitching	22
		Traditional embroidery techniques	37
R		Troubleshooting	52
Repairing tears	31	Twin needle	28
Reverse sewing	20
Richelieu	38
Roll hemming	34	W
Ruffler	44	Winding the bobbin	10-11
S		Z
Safety notes	2	Zigzag stitch	23
Serging with the zigzag stitch	23	Zippers	32-33

hobby 1016 - Stitch chart

Program	Name	Application
	Buttonhole A_3 , A_4/2 , A_1	Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen
B_1 ----	Straight stitch needle position middle	For all straight stitch and lockstitch, stitch length 1 mm
B_2 ---	Straight stitch needle position middle	For all straight stitch and lockstitch, stitch length 2 mm
B_3 ---	Straight stitch needle position middle	For all straight stitch and lockstitch, stitch length 4 mm
C_1 ~~	Zigzag- stitch	For serging and appliqué, stitch width 2 mm
C_2 ∧ ∧	Zigzag stitch	For serging and appliqué, stitch width 4 mm
C_3 ∧ ∧	Zigzag stitch	For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm
D ∧ ∧	Elastic stitch	For stitching on elastic band, darning tears and patches

Operating the machine

Bobbin winding 10-11

Bobbin case 12-13

Bobbin thread tension 13

Changing the needle 18

Changing the presser foot 17

Control panel 19

Detachable work support 9

Drawing up the bobbin thread 16

Electrical connection 8

Free arm 9

Lowering the feed dog 18

Needle thread tension 18

Presser bar lifter 15

Reverse serging 20

Setting the utility stitches 20

Threading the needle thread 14-15

Thread cutter 16

Operating the machine

PFAFF

Carrying handle

Lift up the carrying handle of the sewing machine from behind.

Two electrical components: a black box with two leads and a 220V socket, both connected to wires (no visible text or symbols)

Electrical connection

Connect the plug of the foot pedal to the connection bushing (11) on the sewing machine and the electrical socket. The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the foot pedal. For this sewing machine has to be used foot controller YC-482 or TJC-150.

Close-up of a black cable inserted into a white socket, showing internal ventilation slots (no text or symbols visible)

Master switch

The sewing lamp lights up when the master switch (12) is turned on. The machine is now ready to sew.

Operating the machine

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric on a workbench (no visible text or symbols)

Accessory compartment

The accessory compartment is found underneath the detachable work support (13), that has to be opened.

Black-and-white photo of a mechanical device with scattered components on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Organizing the accessories

Place the enclosed accessories into the accessory compartment.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Removing the detachable work support / free arm

In order to be able to sew with the free arm, you must swing the detachable work support (13) to the left and lift it out of the hole.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a white fabric block, with no visible text or symbols.

Inserting the detachable work support

Push the pins of the detachable work support (13) from the left fully into the holes provided.

When inserting the detachable work support, make sure that it is flush with the free arm of the sewing machine.

Operating the machine

A₁ A₂ A₃ B₁ B₂ B₃ B₄ B₅ B₆ C₁ C₂ C₃ D nobby 1016 german design

Preparing the machine for bobbin winding

Pull the handwheel (7) fully to the right. This will prevent the needle moving while the machine is winding the bobbin.

Close-up of a mechanical component with circular features and a directional arrow (no visible text or symbols)

Mounting the bobbin

Switch off the master switch (12)

Place the empty bobbin onto the pin of the bobbin winding mechanism and press it down as far as possible. Push the bobbin to the right.

Note: The bobbin can only be wound if it is moved fully to the right.

Mechanical sewing machine with needle and fabric bands (no visible text or symbols)

Winding the bobbin

Pull the spool holder (5) up and place a spool on it.

Place the thread clockwise into the bobbin winder tension (2) and run it to the bobbin. Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin several times.

Turn the master switch (12) on and press the foot pedal.

Let go of the thread after a few revolutions. As soon as the bobbin is full the winding action will be stopped automatically. Press the full bobbin to the left and remove it from the pin.

Operating the machine

Mechanical diagram showing a rotating component and a curved tool interacting with a textured surface (no text or symbols)

Mechanical sewing machine with a black circular component mounted on a base (no visible text or symbols)

Bobbin winder tension

Pass the thread through the bobbin thread tension (2) in a clockwise direction, so that it crosses over itself on the way to the bobbin.

Winding a bobbin through the needle

It is possible to wind bobbins even when the machine is threaded. Raise the presser bar lifter (26) to the top position. Pull the thread underneath the presser foot.

Front view of a sewing machine with needle, fabric, and control knobs (no visible text or symbols)

Pull the thread upward through the left-hand threader slot (18). Place the thread from left to right through the take-up lever (28). Wind the beginning of the thread several times around the bobbin in a clockwise direction. Hold the end of the thread firmly and press the foot pedal.

Tip: While winding the bobbin, gently push down the front of the presser foot with your finger.

Don't forget: After winding a bobbin, press the handwheel (7) back to the left!

Operating the machine

Close-up of a mechanical device with visible components and wiring (no text or symbols)

Hook cover

Switch off the master switch (12).

Hold the side of the hook cover (19) and open it towards you.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, with a hand adjusting the component (no visible text or symbols)

Taking out the bobbin case

Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull the bobbin case out. Release the latch and take out the empty bobbin.

Thread tension

In order to achieve a perfect seam appearance and durability make sure the needle and bobbin thread tensions are correctly adjusted to each other, so that the thread interlace is not visible on both sides of the fabric.

The following is valid for general sewing work:

Thread interlace is visible on the top side of the fabric:

• The needle thread tension is too tight or the bobbin thread tension is too loose.
• The thread tension must be corrected.

Thread interlace is visible on the under-side of the fabric:

• The needle thread tension is too loose or the bobbin thread tension is too tight.
  • The thread tension must be corrected.
• For fancy stitches, buttonholes and darning the thread interlace should be visible on the underside of the fabric.

Technical diagram showing mechanical assembly with labeled parts A and B, likely illustrating a gear or cam mechanism.

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case. When doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A and then under tension spring B so that it rests in the opening (see arrow).

Hand holding a small object with wires, connected to a separate mechanical component (no text or symbols visible)

Checking the bobbin thread tension

Hold the thread protruding from the bobbin case and pull the thread upwards sharply. The bobbin case must drop down the thread during this movement.

Adjusting the setting:

Using the screwdriver from the accessories, turn setting screw C just a little to the left to decrease the bobbin thread tension.

Turn setting screw C just a little to the right to increase the bobbin thread tension.

G E F D

Inserting the bobbin case

Lift latch D and push the bobbin case fully onto pin E of the sewing hook. The bobbin case finger F must point into cutout G.

Check:

Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.

Operating the machine

PFAFF A C 4 B D E

Threading the needle thread

Switch off the master switch (12).

Pull the spool holder (5) up and mount the thread. Raise the presser bar lifter (26).

Turn the handwheel until the take-up lever (28) is at its highest position.

Thread by following the steps A to E.

Tip:

All the thread guides have an opening in which you can simply lay the threads.

Operating the machine

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Threading the needle

Thread the needle thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle with metal clamps and base mount (no visible text or symbols)

Presser bar lifter

The presser foot is raised and lowered with the presser bar lifter (26).

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and circular mechanical component (no visible text or symbols)

Drawing up the bobbin thread

Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is at its highest position and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread.

Mechanical assembly with a mounted machine and tool, no visible text or symbols

Bobbin thread

Close the hook cover (19) and pull the thread under the presser foot to the left.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Thread cutter

Pull the thread from the back to the front over the thread cutter (17).

Operating the machine

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, with hands operating the work (no visible text or symbols)

Removing the presser foot

Switch off the master switch (12).

Raise the needle to its highest position. Press the front of the presser foot up and the rear of the presser foot down until it disengages from the presser foot holder (20).

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching metal components on a cutting board (no visible text or symbols)

Attaching the presser foot

Place the presser foot under the presser foot holder (20) so that when the presser bar lifter (26) is lowered, the pins of the foot engage in the presser foot holder.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric on a metal workbench (no visible text or symbols)

Check:

Please check that the presser foot is properly attached by raising the presser bar lifter.

Operating the machine

Close-up of hands operating a mechanical device with a thermometer labeled 'A' (no visible text or symbols on the device itself)

Changing the needle

Switch off the master switch (12).

To remove: Lower the presser foot and set the needle to its highest point. Loosen the fixing screw (23) and pull the needle downwards.

To insert: The flat side A of the needle must face to the rear. Lower the presser foot and insert the needle, pushing it up as far as it will go. Hold the needle and tighten the fixing screw (23) firmly.

PFAFF

Setting the needle thread tension

Set the required amount of the needle thread tension (3) using the markings on the tension dial.

The normal setting for sewing is 4-5. For embroidery and buttonhole sewing between 2 and 3.

Mechanical device with labeled parts A and B, showing internal components and motion indicators (no readable text or symbols beyond labels)

Lowering the feed dog

For certain sewing work, such as sewing on buttons, the feed dog (22) has to be lowered. To do this, open the hook cover (19) and move the metallic slide to the right-hand position (B) by pushing it downwards and then to the right. To engage the feed dog, push down the slide and lock it into the left-hand position (A).

Operating the machine

A3 A7 A1 B1 B2 B3 W-1 S S H I J K L M N C1 C2 C3 D hobby 1016 german design

Control panel

All the sewing programs and the relevant foot recommendations are depicted on the control panel of your sewing machine. The various programs are selected using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) on the left.

Operating the machine

A₃ A⁴/₂ A₁ B₁ B₂ B₃ -5 5 5 0 0 0 3 4 1 C₁ C₂ C₃ D - 0 0 0 0

C- B₁

Setting utility stitches

All stitch patterns that you can sew with your machine are illustrated in the stitch pattern chart (8).

Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) you can set the desired stitch by turning the dial until the required letter appears in the adjustment field (4).

Simple grayscale illustration of a sphere with a curved arrow pointing downward (no text or symbols)

Reverse sewing

The machine sews in reverse only as long as the reverse sewing key (10) is pressed.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Buttonholes 26-27

Darning 31

Elastic stitch 25

Gathering 30

General sewing aids 22

Hemming with the twin needle 28

Lace work 35

Non-elastic stitches 23

Roll hemming 34

Sewing on buttons 24

Shell edging 36

Smocking 29

Zippers 32-33

PFAFF

Needle thread tension

In order to achieve a perfectly sewn seam, the needle thread and bobbin thread tensions must be correctly adjusted to each other. The normal setting for utility stitches is in the range from 4 to 5.

Check the tension using a wide zigzag stitch. The thread interlace must be between the two layers of fabric.

If the needle thread tension is too tight, the interlace will be on the top side of the fabric.

If the needle thread tension is set too loose, the interlace will be on the reverse side of the fabric.

The adjustment of the bobbin thread tension is described on page 15.

Close-up of a mechanical device with labeled parts C and F, no readable text or symbols beyond labels

Topstitching with the edge guide (special accessories)

For broad topstitching work we recommend using the edge guide. This accessory guarantees topstitching which is parallel to the edge of the fabric. The edge guide is inserted into hole C and is secured with fixing screw F.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Feed aid for thick seams

To ensure precise feeding at the beginning of a thick seam, we recommend placing a piece of fabric which is the same thickness as the work under the back of the sewing foot to support it.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Black textured surface with a vertical white dashed line dividing it into two sections (no text or symbols)

Straight stitch

Program B is the basic straight stitch in center needle position.

Use adjustment button to select:

B_1 : stitch length 1 mm

B_2 : stitch length 2 mm

B_3 : stitch length 4 mm

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Zigzag stitch

C_1 : stitch length 0.5mm ; stitch width 2mm C_2 : stitch length 1.5mm ; stitch width 4mm C_3 : stitch length 1.5mm ; stitch width 5mm

Tip: Blind stitch foot no. 3 is particularly suitable for serging thin materials. While sewing, the thread passes over the bar thus preventing the fabric edge from rolling up. This ensures a good, smooth seam. The trimmed edge must be guided along the stop. You can adjust the stop with the retaining screw.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Sewing on buttons

For sewing on buttons, the presser foot must be removed and the feed dog must be lowered (c.f. page 20).

- Select the 4 mm zigzag stitch, stitch C_2 , by turning the stitch adjustment button (9).

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Sewing on buttons with a thread shank

• Attach the presser foot.
• Place a match between the holes in the button and sew as described in the left hand column on this page.
• Remove the match and pull the fabric and the button apart.
• Wrap the shank with the sewing thread and knot it.

Elastic stitch Stitch D

Because of its high elasticity, this stitch is used for sewing on elastic band, e.g. on underwear; skirt, trouser and dress waistbands; and cuffs.

Microscopic view of a wavy line pattern above a row of vertical dark streaks (no text or symbols)

• If replacing elastic, cut off old elastic close to its edge.
• If needed, gather the fabric edge with the 4 mm long straight stitch (c.f. page 30).
• Divide fabric and elastic into quarters and mark. You may find it easier to handle if you pin the elastic to the fabric at the matching marks.
• Stretch the elastic to fit the fabric, matching marks as you sew.
  • Overlap the ends slightly and secure with the elastic stitch.
• On skirts and pants (trousers) the elastic is sewn onto the prepared edge with the elastic stitch.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Close-up of a garment with a knitted skirt and buttons, no visible text or symbols

Buttonholes

Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all of the hobby models because the fabric does not have to be rotated. To make sewing buttonholes even easier we recommend the buttonhole foot.

Generally, buttonholes are sewn onto lined, doubled fabric. However, it is necessary to additionally stabilize some materials such as silk, organza and rayon with backing paper so that the fabric does not gather when being sewn.

Avalon (from Madeira) is very good for this purpose. This is a special type of stabilizer that dissolves in water. On materials such as velvet and thick wool fabrics that feed poorly it can be used either on or underneath the fabric. The material is thus fed more efficiently by the machine and buttonholes are much easier to sew.

Embroidery and darning threads are particularly good for sewing attractive seams.

Using a fabric marker or pin, mark the starting points of the buttonholes and always sew a test buttonhole first.

Note:

Before every buttonhole you must slide the runner of the buttonhole foot forward as far as it will go, i.e. the red arrow is at the first red line. The red markings are 0.5 cm apart. The red markings give you a means of determining the length of the buttonhole.

Tip: It is important to always sew a test buttonhole on the same fabric/stabilizer as your project.

Close-up of a mechanical component with labeled parts A and B (no text or symbols beyond labels)

Program A_3 / A_4/2 / A_1

Sewing buttonholes with the button-hole foot

Linen buttonhole

• Attach the buttonhole foot and slide the foot forward as far as it will go.
• Position the pattern adjustment dial at A_1 and sew the first buttonhole seam in the desired length.
• Select setting A_1/2 and sew 4-6 stitches for the bartack. Make sure the fabric stays in position while doing this.
• Select setting A_3 and sew the second buttonhole seam in the reverse direction and in the same length.
• Select setting A_4/2 again and sew a few bartack stitches while making sure the fabric stays in position.
• Select straight stitch setting B, and sew a few tying off stitches. Make sure the fabric stays in position.
• Cut open the buttonhole with the aid of a pair of scissors or a slitting knife.

Close-up of a black cylindrical object with a white curved line extending from its end, against a textured gray background (no text or symbols visible)

Linen buttonhole with gimp thread

To sew especially durable buttonholes, e.g. on sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread.

On elastic materials the gimp thread is particularly important to prevent the buttonhole from stretching.

• Lay the gimp thread over the rear protrusion A and pass the thread ends underneath the presser foot towards the front.
• Clamp the threads to the left and right of protrusion B.
• Slide the buttonhole runner as far forwards as possible and sew the buttonhole as described in the left hand column.
• Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the buttonhole and trim the thread ends.

Close-up of a white tool interacting with a rectangular object on a dark textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Tip: In order to prevent damaging the bartack by cutting open the buttonhole, insert a pin into the bartack.

Close-up of a textured gray surface with no visible text, symbols, or markings

Mechanical device with mounted components and base plate (no visible text or symbols)

Hemming with the twin needle

Topstitching work can be carried out on normal and stretch materials with the twin needle.

Professional hems on T-shirts, knitwear and cycling shorts can be sewn quickly and easily with the twin needle. The twin needle is available in various widths. Please ensure that you use the jersey needle for stretch fabrics!

• First fold and iron the width of fabric desired for the hem.
• Topstitch the hem from the face side.
• Cut the protruding hem edge fabric close to the seam.

Tip: On difficult materials such as ribbed knitwear it is advisable to baste the hem before topstitching it.

Threading the twin needle

• Place a spool on each of the spool pins.
  • Pass both of the threads through the thread guides (c.f. page 14).
• Lay the threads behind the thread guides (15) and (16) and thread one of the threads into each of the right and left needles.

Close-up of a sewing machine stitching fabric with visible stitching details (no text or symbols)

Smocking effect with elastic threads

Fine, light fabrics such as batiste, rayon and silk are especially suitable for beautiful smocking work. For smocking work with elastic thread you should use an additional bobbin case and wind it by hand with the elastic thread. As the elastic thread is much stronger than the normal bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin case must be set very loose. Don't forget however, the higher the bobbin thread tension, the tighter the gathering effect.

• Sew a test seam to determine the level of gather.
• Mark the first line on the face side of the fabric and sew along it.
  • Each additional seam can be sewn at a presser foot's width from the first row.
• When sewing several seams next to one another, you must stretch the fabric to its original length when sewing the subsequent seams. Otherwise the gather will be irregular.
• Knot the threads at the beginning and end of the seam on the reverse side.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, showing needle and base components (no text or symbols visible)

Gathering with the straight stitch

With program B_3 you can gather sleeves, skirts and valances with a stitch length of 4 mm. To ensure a consistent gathering effect you should sew two or three rows of gathers.

• Mark the first line on the face side of the fabric and sew along it. Allow the threads to extend approx. 10-20 cm beyond the ends of the fabric.
  • Each subsequent seam can be sewn one presser foot width from the last.
  • Gather the piece of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. You determine the amount of gather by how much you pull the thread.
• Secure the gathers by knotting the thread ends.

Pure electrical circuit lines without any symbols

Darning with the elastic stitch D

Darning with the elastic stitch is especially suitable for repairing damaged areas.

- Sew over the damaged area in rows until it is well covered. Take care to ensure that the rows overlap.

Repairing tears

On tears, frayed edges or small holes it is useful to lay a piece of fabric under the reverse side of the fabric. The under-laid fabric reinforces the workpiece and ensures you a perfect repair.

• Lay a piece of fabric underneath the material. It must always be a little larger than the damaged area.
• Sew over the damaged area in accordance with the size of the tear.
• Trim the underlaid piece of fabric back to the seam.

Square frame made of small wavy lines on a textured background (no text or symbols)

Sewing on patches

To cover larger holes well, it is necessary to sew a new piece of fabric onto the damaged area.

• Baste the new piece of fabric onto the damaged area of the face side of the fabric.
• Sew over the fabric edges with the elastic stitch.
• Trim the damaged area back to the seam from the reverse side of the fabric.

Tip: To simplify turning the corners of the patch, turn the handwheel until the needle is in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric.

Sewing in zippers

There are different ways to sew in zippers. For skirts we recommend inserting a centered zipper. For men's or ladies' pants (trousers), a lapped zipper works best. Different types of zippers are available in retail stores: invisible, metal, plastic, jeans and outerwear to name a few. We recommend metal zippers for heavier fabrics such as jeans. For all other materials a plastic zipper will work well and create a softer finish to your completed garment.

For all types of zippers it is important to sew close to the teeth of the zipper. The zipper foot (optional accessory) can be engaged in the foot holder to the left or right, depending on the meti

Two-step diagram showing a hand operating a mechanical device with a handle and base (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Inserting centered zippers (concealed on both sides)

• Attach the zipper foot (optional accessory) to the right side.
• Baste or pin the zipper in place and position it under the presser foot so that the teeth run along the side of the presser foot.
• Sew in half of the zipper, leaving the needle in the material. Raise the presser foot and close the zipper.
• You can now sew the rest of the seam to the end of the zipper and stitch the cross-wise seam.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and clasp mechanism (no visible text or symbols)

• Sew the second half of the zipper parallel, the same distance from the center seam as the first half.
• Stop shortly before the end of the seam and leave the needle in the material. Raise the presser foot and open the zipper.
• You will now be able to complete the seam.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

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Trouser zippers

• Press the left front seam allowance over 1/8" (4 mm) narrower than the actual seam allowance.
• Baste the zipper under the overlapping edge so that the teeth are still visible.
• Engage the zipper foot on the right and set the needle to the required position.
• Stitch close to the edge of the zipper teeth.

Mechanical device with lever and base mount (no visible text or symbols)

• Shortly before the end of the seam, open the zipper and finish sewing the seam.
• Close the zipper and baste the overlap evenly onto the other zipper half.
• Stitch along the basted seam.

Tip: To achieve accurate seams we recommend using the edge guide (special accessories).

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Roll hemming

With the roll hemmer (special accessories) you can finish the edge of blouses, scarves, or ruffles without having to iron the edges beforehand. Hemming prevents the edges from fraying and produces a neat and durable edge finish.

• Double-fold the fabric edge (about 1/8"/2 mm per fold).
• Place the folded fabric edge under the hemmer and sew a few straight stitches B_2 to secure.
• Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and insert the fabric into the hemmer foot scroll.
• Lower the presser foot and while sewing, guide the fabric edge evenly into the hemmer. Ensure the fabric does not run underneath the right side of the presser foot.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fabrics, the roll hem is particularly attractive with a zigzag stitch.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

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Lace-work

Lace inserts

A beautiful heirloom effect can be achieved on christening wear, children's clothes and other garments with lace inserts.

• Baste the lace to the face side of the fabric.
• Stitch very close to both edges of the lace using straight stitch.
• Carefully slit the fabric behind the lace at the center. Press these edges towards the garment.
  • Overstitch both edges of the lace with a small zigzag stitch.
• Cut away the excess fabric on the back of your project.

Decorative corner frame with lace patterns and a blank space (no text or symbols)

Lace edges with corners

Tablecloths, napkins and clothing can all be beautifully enhanced with lace trimmings.

• Serge/clean-finish the fabric edges.
• Stitch the lace onto the face side of the fabric up till the first corner.
• Fold over the corners and stitch them diagonally.
• Continue until all edges are stitched.

Utility stitches and practical sewing

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Shell edging

The shell edge is very effective for thin, soft fabrics such as silk and rayon fabric. It is frequently used as an edge finish on undergarments. The tighter the bobbin thread tension is set, the farther the shell edge will pull in.

• Serge the fabric edge and iron over the seam allowance.
• Make sure that the fabric runs under the presser foot at half of the foot width. This provides a more prominent shell edging effect.

Tip: If you add a colored pearl cotton thread at the edge you can strengthen the shell edging and obtain a pretty contrast at the same time. Instead of pearl cotton thread you can also place a different colored light fabric underneath.

Traditional embroidery techniques

Patchwork quilt 39-40

Richelieu 38

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Richelieu

This very artistic form of bar and eyelet embroidery is easy to create with your sewing machine.

• Transfer your pattern onto the right side of the fabric using a fabric marker.
• Place two layers of water-soluble stabilizer under the area to be embroidered and tightly hoop the fabric and stabilizer.

- Attach foot number 0 to your machine.

- To make the embroidery more stable, sew all of the contours twice using the straight stitch (stitch length approx. 1 mm).

- Carefully cut away the fabric from the areas that will form the cutouts approximately 1/8" (2 mm) from stitching. Do not cut away the stabilizer – it helps maintain the shape and stability of the areas while sewing.

- Embroider the contours with a satin stitch zigzag.

- When all satin stitching is completed, tear away large areas of water-soluble stabilizer and dissolve remaining small areas in water.

Traditional embroidery techniques

Black-and-white photo of a draped fabric or garment with geometric patterns, resting on a surface (no text or symbols visible)

Patchwork quilt

Quilting is a traditional hand sewing technique. The method that the wives of American settlers developed to make use of material remnants has become a very popular artistic hobby for many sewing enthusiasts.

Patchwork quilts used to be sewn exclusively by hand. Nowadays, however, you have the possibility to make your creative ideas a reality in a much shorter time.

A quilt always consists of three layers of material. Lots of geometrically shaped pieces of material are joined together in continually changing patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is tacked onto the middle layer of polyester or cotton batting and connected to the back layer of the quilt. The quilt backing is usually one uniform piece of fabric.

Abstract geometric pattern with overlapping triangles and squares (no text or symbols)

And this is what you do

• Cut out the pieces of your quilt top using templates you have bought or made yourself. A seam allowance of 1/4" (6.3 mm) should already be included in the templates.
• Spread these pieces out in front of you in accordance with the pattern and form small squares which you can then put together. These squares will then be sewn together and will form the top ply of the quilt.
• The seam allowances of quilts are usually not serged and are always pressed towards the darker fabric side.
• Baste the completed quilt top to the batting and backing. In traditional quilts these three layers of material are then sewn together by hand with small stitches. However, it is quicker and more practical with the sewing machine, i.e. with the straight stitch. Quilting is usually stitched about 3 mm away from the seam. Use foot number 0 or the quilt and patchwork foot (see page 46).

When the quilting is finished you can simply bind the edges or make it into cushions, wearable art or other smaller projects.

Accessories and needles

Bias binder	44
Cording foot	45
Felling foot	45
Knit-edge foot	46
Needle chart	47-48
Quilting and patchwork foot	46
Ruffler	44
Sewing feet	42
Optional accessories chart	43

Accessories and needles

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Sewing feet

0 Standard presser foot (included) Part no: 98-694 847-00

Mechanical component with no visible text or symbols

3 Blind-stitch foot (optional) Part no: 98-694 845-00

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4 Zipper foot (optional) Part no: 98-694 843-00

Exterior view of a mechanical component or housing (no visible text or symbols)

5 Buttonhole foot (included) Part no: 98-694 882-00

Assorted white plastic components and tools arranged on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Screwdriver	Part no: 93-040 971-41
Bobbins	Part no: 93-040 970-45
Machine oil	Part no: 93-035 910-91
Knife	Part no: 99-053 016-91
Needle system 130/705 H	Part no: 48-020 804-32

Sewing feet (optional accessories)
The optional accessories are for special sewing work. They are available from your dealer.

Designation	Order no.	Sewing work
Pintuck foot with guide	93-036 942-91	For embroidering areas between pintucks
Pintuck foot, 5 grooves (twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0)	93-042 950-91	For pintuck work
Pintuck foot, 7 grooves (twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0)	93-042 953-91 (needle size 80)	For pintuck work
Straight stitch foot with round hole	98-694 821-00	Attention! Only use straight stitch in needle position middle
Finger guard	93-036 910-91	For all sewing work
Edge guide	98-802 422-00	For topstitching
Felling foot 4.5 mm	93-042 946-91	For flat felled seams
Felling foot 6.5 mm	93-042 948-91	For flat felled seams
Fancy stitch foot	98-694 864-01	Multiple uses e.g. for buttonholes
Ruffler (remove presser foot holder)	98-999 650-00	For sewing dense or broad pleats on valances etc.
Cording foot	93-036 915-91	For cording
Quilt foot	93-036 925-91	For sewing patchwork parts and quilting
Roll hemmer 2 mm	98-694 873-00	For hemming edges
Roll foot	91-046 703-03/001	For materials which are difficult to feed (e.g. leather)
Hemmer 4 mm	98-694 823-00	For hemming edges
Hemmer	98-694 818-00	For hemming edges
Bias binder	98-053 484-91	For binding edges with bias tape
Knit-edge foot	93-042 957-91	For sewing together knitwear
Non-stick foot	93-036 917-91	For sewing leather

The following pages contain application examples of some optional accessory feet.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Bias tape binder

Binding with bias tape is a very easy method of giving fabric edges a smooth and neat appearance. For this you need unfolded bias tape about 1" (24 mm) wide.

• Remove the presser foot and holder. Attach the bias binder.
• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at a diagonal.
• Feed the tape into the scroll of the binder and pull out to the back.
• Adjust the binder and/or the needle position so that the needle pierces the fabric approximately 1/16" (1-1.5 mm) from the folded edge of the bias tape.
• Stitch about 1" (2.5 cm) along the bias tape.
• Insert the edge of the fabric to be bound between the bias tape edges into the slot of the binder. The bias tape will enclose the raw edge automatically during sewing.

Tip: You can obtain an additional decorative effect by using a zigzag or fancy stitch.

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Ruffler

With the ruffler you can make closely or widely spaced pleats automatically while sewing. This is very useful for ruffles, frills, home textiles, etc.

The ruffler can be used in three different ways:

1. Folding and securing pleats in fabric.
2. Folding pleats in fabric and securing to a second fabric in one operation.
3. Folding pleats in fabric, attaching lace and securing to another fabric in one operation.

When you buy the ruffler from your PFAFF dealer, full operating instructions are included.

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Felling foot

Flat felled seams are particularly strong and are commonly known as jeans seams. Seams on sportswear and children's wear, blouses and shirts are more durable with this technique. You can make these seams particularly decorative by using a sewing thread of a contrasting color. The felling foot is available in two different widths.

• Attach the felling foot to the presser foot holder.
• Place the fabrics wrong sides together.
• Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply by about 3/8" to 5/8" (1-1.5 cm).
• Place this overlapping edge over the tongue of the felling foot. The fabric must be placed fully under the presser foot.
• Sew along the folded edge with a straight stitch (stitch length 2.5-3 mm).
• Separate the fabric and feed the protruding hem into the felling foot. The hem is turned over by the foot and is overstitched along the edge. Pull the two fabric layers taut during sewing.

Close-up of a mechanical device with a rod and lever mechanism (no visible text or symbols)

Cording foot

Cording is a technique in which pearl thread or a fine cord is overstitched to produce a purl seam. With this you can obtain an effect similar to braiding. Appliqués can also be made more effective with this seam.

• Attach the cording foot.
• Place the pearl thread in the foot so it leads through one of the grooves at the front and lies under the presser foot at the back.
• Select a narrow satin zigzag stitch, stitch A, with the pattern adjustment button (9).
  • Overstitch the pearl thread with a narrow satin zigzag stitch. This produces what is known as the purl seam.

Tip: You can also obtain a remarkable effect by overstitching a medium pearl thread with a thread of a different color.

Accessories and needles

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Knit-edge foot

As the knit-edge foot has a presser foot sole of varying height, thick knitted fabrics can be sewn with ease. To do so select the zigzag stitch. In order to obtain a perfect seam on knit fabrics, we recommend oversewing a wool thread, pulled slightly taut, into the seam. This will give the seam additional strength and keep it from stretching out of shape.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle cutting fabric, no visible text or symbols on the device itself

Quilt and patchwork foot

The quilt and patchwork foot allows you to sew accurate 1/4 or 1/8" seams. The distance from the needle to the outer right edge of the foot is 1/4" (0.63 cm) and to the inner right edge 1/8" (0.31 cm).

Patching

• Attach the quilt and patchwork foot.
• Sew together your pieces of fabric with the straight stitch. For a seam allowance of 1/4", guide your fabric along the outer right edge of the foot. For a seam allowance of 1/8", guide your fabric along the inner right edge of the foot.

Quilting

(Sewing through the top layer, fleece layer and bottom layer of the quilt)

- Sew the three layers of the quilt (e.g. with the straight stitch) approx. 3 mm from the seam line.

Needle chart

Selection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material

Fabric weight light Needle 60 70 75

Fabric weight medium Needle 80 90

Fabric weight heavy Needle 100 110 120

Needle points

System & No.	Profile	Point and eye	Suitable for
130/705 HNeedle size 70/80		Light ball point	Universal needle for linen, chiffon,batiste, organdy, woolens, velvet,fancy seams and embroidery.
130/705 H-SUKNeedle size 70/110		Medium ball point	Coarse knitted fabrics, Lastex, double-knit, jersey fabrics, Quiana and Simplex.
130/705 H-PSNeedle size 75+90		Medium ball point	Stretch-fabric needle particularly suitable for stretch and knitted fabrics.
130/705 H-SKFNeedle size 70/110		Large ball point	Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex and Lastex.
130/705 HJNeedle size 90-110		Sharp round point	Twill, workwear, heavy linen-fabrics, blue jeans, light canvas and sailcloth.
130/705 H-LRNeedle size 70-120		Narrow twist point (right)	Leather, suede, calf goat skin.
130/705 H-PCLNeedle size 80-110		Narrow wedge point (left))	Imitation leather, plastics, foils and oilcloth.
130 H-NNeedle size 70-110		Light ball point with long eye	Topstitching with buttonhole silk or synthetic threads no. 30/3.
130/705 H-WINGNeedle size 100		Hemstitching point	Effective hemstitching on batiste, organdy and glass cambric.
130/705 H-ENeedle size 75/90		Medium ball point	Especially for embroidery.
130/705 H-QNeedle size 75		Small ball point	Top-stitched seams for quilting.
130/705 H-MNeedle size 60-80		Sharp round point	For working on microtex fiber.

Needle chart

Classification	Stitch length	Stitch width	Needle spacing	Suitable for
130/705 H-ZWI	2.5 mm	-	1.6 mm	normal pintucks
Size: 80	2.5 mm	-	2.0 mm	normal pintucks
130/705 H-ZWI
Size: 80	2.5 mm	-	2.5 mm	wide pintucks
Size: 90	2.5 mm	-	3.0 mm	extra wide
Size: 100	3.0 mm	-	4.0 mm	pintucks

Fancy patterns with twin needles

Before sewing the desired embroidery stitches, check whether needles can penetrate freely, by turning the handwheel. In this way, needle breakage is avoided as much as possible.

Ornamental stitch patterns / zigzag patterns

Classification	Stitch length	Stitch width	Needle spacing	Suitable for
130/705 H-ZWI
Size: 80	0.5-1.5 mm	wide	1.6 mm	embroidery
Size: 80	0.5-1.5 mm	narrow	2.0 mm	embroidery
Size: 80	0.5-1.5 mm	narrow	2.5 mm	embroidery

Hem stitch / special twin needle

Classification	Stitch length	Stitch width	Needle spacing	Suitable for
130/705H-ZWI-HOSize: 80Size: 100	2.3-3.0 mm2.0-3.0 mm	verry narrowverry narrow	–––	Decorativehem stitch effect.Well-finishedwoven fabricand finebatiste areparticularlysuitable

Maintenance and troubleshooting

Changing the sewing lamp 51

Cleaning and oiling 50

Removing the needle plate 51

Troubleshooting 52

Maintenance and troubleshooting

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Removing the hook

Switch off the master switch (12).

To unlock the hook, fold open the black bar of the hook race. Take out the bobbin case.

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Pull the hook cover ring out towards you.

Note: Turn the handwheel (7) until the needle is at its highest position.

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You can now remove the hook.

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Cleaning and oiling

• Clean the hook race with the brush.
• Place one drop of oil into the hook race (every 15-20 hours of operation).

The machine is maintenance-free and must not be oiled at any other points.

Maintenance and troubleshooting

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a circuit board, with small electronic components nearby (no visible text or symbols)

Removing the needle plate

Raise the presser foot holder (26) and remove the presser foot. The needle must be at its highest position.

• Remove the detachable work support (13). Loosen the two screws with the screwdriver and lift the needle plate (14).
• Clean the feed dog (22) with the brush.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Changing the sewing lamp.

• Switch off the master switch (12).
• Remove the detachable work support (13). The sewing lamp (bulb) is located inside the needle head of the machine. Turn the bulb half a rotation counter clock-wise and remove the bulb. Insert the bulb in the reverse order.

Important! The maximum permissible wattage of the bulb is 15 watts.

Sewing problems and their solutions

Problem/Cause

Remedy

1. The machine skips stitchesThe needle is not properly inserted.Wrong needle is in use.Needle is bent or blunt.The machine is not properly threaded.Needle is too small for thread.2. Needle thread breaksSee reasons above.Thread tension is too tight.Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has become dry after overlong storage.Thread is too thick.3. Needle breaks offNeedle is not pushed fully in.Needle is bent.Needle is too thick or too thin.Needle is bent, and has hit the needle plate because you are pulling or pushing the fabric.The bobbin case is not properly inserted.4. The seam is sewn unevenlyThe tension needs adjusting.Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard.The bobbin thread is unevenly wound.Thread loops at top or underside of fabric.5. The machine does not feed or feeds irregularlySewing lint has collected between the feed dog teeth rows.6. The machine is running with difficultyThere are thread remnants in the hook ways.

Push needle fully upwards. Flat side facing the back.Use needle system 130/705 H.Insert a new needle.Check how the machine is threaded.Use a larger needle.See above.Adjust thread tension.Only use good quality threads.Use needle with large eye (system 130 N).Insert new needle and push fully in.Insert new needle.See needle table (Page 59, 60).Only guide the fabric lightly.When you insert the bobbin case, push it fully into the stop.Pull lightly on the end of the thread to make sure bobbin case is secure.Check needle and bobbin thread tensions.Only use good quality threads.Do not wind thread by hand.Make sure thread is pulled solidly into bobbin tension spring.Re-thread machine.Check the needle and bobbin thread tensions.Remove needle plate, remove lint with brush.Remove the threads and apply a drop of oil to the hook.

Important notes:

Before changing presser feet and needle the master switch must be switched off.

Do not attempt to sew without fabric under the presser foot.

When leaving the machine, even for only a short time, switch off the master switch.

This is important if there are any children nearby.

Technical Data

Dimensions (w x h x d)

Weight

Nominal voltage

Power consumption

Sewing lamp

Sewing speed

Stitching width

Stitching length

Presser foot lift

Max. presser foot height

Needle system

392 x 149 x 296 mm

6,6 kg

120 V / 220...240 V

80 W

15 W

max. 900 stitches / min.

max. 5 mm

max. 4 mm

5 mm

11,5 mm

130 / 705 H

Package contents

Sewing machine

Foot control

Lead cord

Accessories

Instruction manual