creative 7510 - Sewing machine PFAFF - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL creative 7510 PFAFF

PFAFF creative 7510 Made in Germany

Instruction manual

Please fold this page open to simplify the understanding of this instruction manual when reading it.

Safety rules

For the United Kingdom only

The leads must in no case be connected to the safety-lead terminal I nor to a three point plug.

The wires in the mains lead are coloured according to the following code:

Blue: Neutral

Brown: Live

As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colour coding of the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows:

The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or coloured black.

The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter L or coloured black.

Cut-off mains plugs are not to be used. Dispose of any you may have immediately. Defective mains leads are to be completely replaced.

Only ASTA approved 3A spare fuses which comply with BS 1362 may be used. The fuse cover must be marked 3A or with the corresponding colour code.

Never use the plug without the fuse cover. Spare fuse covers are available from electrical suppliers or PFAFF dealers.

Please also observe the general safety notes on page 2.

Contents on pages 4 - 7

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electric appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER To reduce the risk of electric schock:

1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4. Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric schock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.
2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked.
10. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
11. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
12. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
13. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Use needles recommended by the manufacturer only.
14. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
15. Switch the sewing machine off ("0") when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
16. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

36 35 1 2 3 4 5 PFAFF creative 7510 34 33 6 7 8 9 10 32 26 27 23 22 21 19 18 17 16 15 14 20 16 24 25 31 30 29

37 38 39 40 41 42 52 PFAFF creative 7510 51 50 49 48 47 46 43 44 45

Parts of the Creative 7510

(1) Bobbin thread monitor and sewing function light "reverse sewing"

(2) "Twin needle" key

(3) "Slow sewing" key

(4) "Needle up/down" key

(5) "Tacking" key

(6) Multi function display

(7) Numbered keys

(8) "Display" key

(9) "clear" key

(10) "edit|☐" key

(11) "Clear" key

(12) "Key "0-9" for pattern selection

(13) "o.k." key

(14) "Pattern start" key

(15) "Overlock program" key

(16) "Single pattern" key

(17) "M-Memory" key

(18) "Pattern mirror" key (axial mirror image)

(19) "Buttonhole" key

(20) "Pattern mirror key" key (lateral mirror image)

(21) "A-Z" key for alphabet selection

(22) ≧ "Zigzag stitch" key

(23) "↑" key, straight stitch

(24) Brightness control for the display

25) On/off switch

26) Presser foot lifter

27) "Reverse" key "Bartack" buttonhole key

28) Needle holder with fixing screw

29) Detachable work support with accessory compartment

30) Sewing foot holder with sewing foot

31) Needle threader

32) Thread guide

33) Threading slots

34) Needle thread tension

35) Take-up lever

36) Carrying handle

37) Thread guide for bobbin winding

38) Program table

39) Spool holder with unwinding disk

40) Second spool holder for swinging up

41) Hole for third spool holder (extra accessory)

42) Bobbin winder

13) Handwheel

14) Handwheel release disk

45) Connection socket "mains cord"

46) Connection socket "foot control"

47) Base plate

18) Hook cover (sewing hook behind)

49) Free-arm

(0) Sewing lamp

1) Thread trimmer

2) Top cover

Notes on safety for domestic sewing machines in accordance with DIN 60 335-2-28 and/or EN 60 335-2-28

1. The user must exercise adequate caution with regard to the up and down moving needle and constantly observe the sewing area while working.
2. When leaving the machine, during maintenance work or when changing mechanical parts or accessories, always disconnect the machine from the mains by pulling out the mains plug.
3. The maximum permissible wattage for the sewing lamp is 15 watts.
4. The tension of the drive belt may only be adjusted by a Pfaff mechanic.
5. The machine is to be put into operation according to the indications on the specification plate.
6. Do not place any objects in openings on the machine.
7. Do not use the sewing machine if:
8. there is visible damage
9. its function is disturbed
10. it is wet, e.g. with condensation.
11. Do not pull the mains plug out of the socket by its cord.
12. No liability will be accepted for any damage caused if this machine is used for any purpose other than that for which it is intended.
13. To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not open the machine. There are no parts inside the machine which the user can repair. This is solely the responsibility of our qualified service staff.
14. Only original PFAFF parts may be used.

Environment

The recommended environment is: Ambient temperature - 10°C to + 40°C Humidity 20% to 95%.

This sewing machine is a high-quality electronic-mechanical appliance; it is a machine for supervised use in the home. It should be operated in such a way that it is not subjected to: dust, severe dampness, direct sunlight, static electricity, heat-producing objects, corrosive chemicals or liquids.

The machine is to be used on a firm and even surface which is open for ventilation purposes.

Treatment

Always protect the machine against damage which could be caused by it being hit or dropped.

Cleaning

Housing and display:

To clean the housing use a dry, clean, soft, lint-free cloth. To remove any stubborn dirt, use a soft cloth with alcohol or paraffin.

Please note!

Do not use any insecticides or chemical products such as petrol or liquid chemicals to clean the housing.

Modern and uncomplicated - Sewing at the touch of a button

Congratulations! You have bought a high-quality product that offers unique benefits. Your new sewing machine can take any material in its stride and will sew through thick and thin for you.

Its features are the very latest in design and technology and you will find that your PFAFF sewing machine is just as simple to operate as this instruction book is to read.

If you take a little time to read the instruction book thoroughly, nothing can go wrong.

It's worth it, because there is no other way to see everything the machine can do and to make full use of its features.

If you have any questions, no problem! Your PFAFF dealer is at your service with any help or advice you may need.

So now you can get started! We wish you many enjoyable hours creating your fashion ideas.

Index

A-Z key 40

Accessories and needles 121-133

Accessory compartment 18

Alphabets 11,47,106

Decorative stitches and traditional embroidery techniques 99-119

Appliqué 110

Appliqué .... 110 Appliqué foot .... 128

Automatic darning 62

S Automatic daming .... 62 Balance .... 45, 62, 76

Fr Bartack 62

Basting stitch 58

Bias tape binder 131

TI Blind stitch 61

p ^1 Bobbin case 22

Bobbin monitor 38

TI Bobbin thread tension 23

Bobbin winding 19-21

Borders 103,104

Buttonhole balance 76

Buttonhole guide 71

Buttonhole key 40

A: Buttonholes 70-81

Wi Carrying case 16

Changing the needle 30

Th Changing the needle plate 134

ke Changing the sewing foot 27

Changing the sewing lamp 135

Th Cleaning and lubricating 134

m: Clear key 40

clear key 39

Contrast in the display 36

Cu Cording foot 129

De Cording foot 130

Covering seams 68, 69

Or Cross stitch 108,109

Th. Cross stitch buttonhole 78

Darning 62,91,92

Ne Darning tears 92

ele Detachable work support 18

Display 36

Ple Display key 39

Dropping the feed dog 31

Dual Feed (IDT System) 28, 29

edit□key 39

Elastic buttonhole 78

Elastic stitch 66

Electrical connection 16-17

Index

Electronic section 33-53

Embroidering 105

Embroidering on leather 105

Embroidery stitch programs 11

Eyelet embroidery 116.117

Eyelet plate 116,117

Eyelets 64

Fagoting stitch 68

Fancy elastic stitch 68

Felling foot 128

Foot control 17

Free-arm 18

Fringe foot 129

Gathering 88,89

General sewing help 86,102

General 86,102

Hems with the twin needle 87

Hemstitching 113-115

Honeycomb stitch 66

Hook cover 22

IDT-System 28

Keyhole buttonhole 80, 81

Knit-edge foot 131

Lace 96

Languages 37

Light, Sewing lamp 135

Light-knit mending stitch 69

Linen embroidery 111

Lubricating and cleaning 134

m key 40

Maintenance and trouble shooting 134-136

Monograms 107

Multi-stitch gathering 131

Needle chart 132.133

Needle stop 38

Needle thread tension 31.86

Needle threader 25

Notes on safety 1

Numbered keys 39

ok key 40

On/off switch 17

Overlock stitches 67

Accessories and Notes Maintenance and tools

Decorative stitches and traditional embroidery techniques

Practical sewing

Utility stitches

Electronic section

Technical section

5

Index

Patching 92

Pattern density 44

Pattern mirror 40

Pattern length 43

Pattern selection 41,42

Pattern selection key 42

Pattern sequence 48-53

Pattern start 40

Pattern width 43

Practical sewing 83-97

Pulling up the bobbin thread 26

Pullover stitch 67

Quilting 118,119

Reverse key 38

Richelieu 112

Roll hemming 95

Round buttonhole 79

Round hole needle plate 59,127

Saddle stitch 65

Semi-automatic 74

Sewing faults 136

Sewing feet 124-127

Sewing foot lifter 26

Sewing function keys 38

Sewing problems and solutions 46

Sewing on buttons 63

Sewing on zippers 93, 94

Shell edging 97

Single pattern 40

Single stem stitch 66

Slow sewing 38

Smocking 90

Special accessories chart 127

Spool holder 20, 21

Stabilizers 102

Standard buttonhole 72-77

Stitch length 43

Straight stitch 58

Stretch stitches 65-69

Stretch triple straight stitch 65

Stretch triple zigzag stitch 66

Tacking 38

Technical section 13-31

Thread tension 23,31,86

Thread trimmer 26

Threading the needle thread 24

Threading the twin needle 87

Top cover 16

ex

ed 29

ching 86

needle 38,87,104

stitch programs 8-10

stitches 55-81

stitch 60

Utility stitch programs

00	01	02	03	04	05	06	07	08	09	10	11	12	13	14

Program No.	Description	Application	Width up to mm
00	Straight stitch with 19 needle positions	For all straight stitch and decorative topstitching jobs up to 6 mm wide.	-
01	Stretch triple straight stitch with 15 needle positions, stitch length 1.5-6 mm	For highly durable seams where great strength is needed, e.g. for trouser seams, sports and work wear and for decorative stitching.	-
02	Zigzag stitch	For finishing seams, appliqué work, inserting lace, sewing with fringe foot, etc.	9
03	Elastic stitch a = 2 stitch points	For sewing on elastic, darning tears and inserting patches.	7
04	Blind stitch	For securing seams invisibly and for shell edging	6
05	Elastic blind stitch	For sewing seams invisibly and serging an edge at the same time. Also for stretch materials.	6
06	Closed overlock stitch	For sewing and finishing seams with an edge thread.	7.5
07	Basting stitch	For basting your sewing cuttings	-
08	Fully automatic eyelets	Various sizes in the memory	9
09	Program for sewing on buttons	For sewing on buttons, fully automatic, various sizes.	6
10	Reverse straight stitch with 19 needle positions	For stitch combinations in pattern sequences and continuous sewing in reverse.	-
11	Saddle stitch with 15 needle positions	For seams on stretch fabric such as leggings etc.	-
12	Shell edging stitch	For decorative hems on fine fabrics	6
13	Closed overlock stitch	For decorative hems on on all fabrics and sewing edges.	6
14	Honeycomb stitch	For sewing on elastic threads, covering terry-cloth seams and for decorative hems (smocking effect).	7

ty stitch programs

16	17	18	19	20	21	22	23	24	25	26	27	28	29

im	Description	Application	Width up to mm
	Elastic stitch b = 1 stitch point	For sewing on elastic, darning tears and inserting patches.	7
	Purl stitch	For appliqué work	6
	Fagoting stitch	For joining corsetry parts. Provides a decorative hemstitching effect.	7
	Fancy elastic stitch	For overstitching two different fabric plies	6
	Cross stitch	Provides a highly elastic seam for sportswear	7
	Pullover stitch	Elastic closing and serging seam for open-knit materials and jersey.	7.5
	Single stem stitch	Durable elastic seam e.g. for working on leggings and embroidery work.	-
	Triple stem stitch	For embroidering in connection with the embroidery programs.	-
	Stretch triple elastic stitch	For sewing elastic tape onto elastic materials, e.g. sportswear. (extremely elastic seam for light-knit materials)	-
	Darning program	For mending damaged areas	9
	Closed overlock stitch	For decorative overstitching of seam edges.	6
	Edge binding stitch	For serging and embellishing edges	7.5
	Variable zigzag stitch from right needle position	For embroidery and bourdoning work. Also as edge stitch in connection with the overlock foot.	6
	Light-knit mending stitch	For sewing and darning light-knit fabrics (underwear etc.).	7.5
	Overlock stitch	For sewing and serging in one operation	7.1

Jtility stitch programs

30	31	32	33	34

Program No.	Description	Application	Width up to mm
30	Standard buttonhole from 7-44 mm	For sewing buttonholes in linen.Note: We recommend sewing foot No. 1a and the dual feed when sewing buttonholes in knitted fabrics or very thin fabrics.	5.5
31	Stretch buttonhole, reinforced	For buttonholes on open-knit fabrics	5.5
32	Stretch buttonhole	For buttonholes on stretch materials (jersey etc). Also as fancy buttonhole.	5.5
33	Round buttonhole	For buttonholes in leisurewear and blouses	7
34	Keyhole buttonhole	For buttonholes in jackets and trousers	8.5

dery stitch programs

37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48

0 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62

64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76

78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

Alphabets

92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 aA a0 bA b0 A O A O Z 9 Z 9 11

Black-and-white fashion photo of a woman in a dark coat with decorative earring, standing beside a vertical decorative border (no text or symbols visible)

Operating the sewing machine

Technical section

Pages 13-31

Z S Fc TI PI TI As w Th ke Th m Cu De Or Th Ne ele Ple 14

PFAFF creative 7510 Made in Daiming

Contents

Electrical connection Pages 16-17

Detachable work support Page 18

Winding the bobbin Pages 19–21

Bobbin case Page 22

Bobbin thread tension Page 23

Threading the needle thread Page 24

Needle threader Page 25

Sewing foot lifter Page 26

Pulling up the bobbin thread Page 26

Thread trimmer Page 26

Changing the sewing foot Page 27

Dual Feed Page 28-29

Changing the needle Page 30

Needle thread tension Page 31

Dropping the feed dog Page 31

Black-and-white photo of a white electronic device with a small internal component and visible label 'PTAS' (no readable text or symbols on the device itself)

Carrying case

Place the enclosed mains cord, foot control and the instruction manual in the compartment of the carrying case.

PFAFF creative 7510 Made in Germany

Top cover

Open the folding cover (52) upwards.

PFAFF creative 7510 PFAFF creative 7510

Programs

The programs of the sewing machine are illustrated on the inside of the top cover and divided into groups.

Menu - utility stitches

Gr. 1 - overlock stitches

Gr. 2 - buttonholes

Gr. 3 - scalloped edging

Gr. 4 - fancy stitches

Gr. 5 - stretch stitches

Gr. 6 - hem stitches

Gr. 7 - leaves/flowers

Gr. 8 - edges

Gr. 9 - decorative

stitches

A-Z - alphabets

Close-up of a medical device with a probe inserted, showing internal components and wiring (no visible text or symbols)

Electrical connection

Connect the mains cord between the connection socket of the sewing machine (45) and the wall socket.

Close-up of hands holding a small object with a tool, no visible text or symbols

Foot control cord

Pull the foot control cord out of the foot control. The foot control has an automatic cord rewind spool.

Close-up of hands operating a vintage electronic device with a small component, no visible text or symbols

Connecting the foot control

Connect the plug of the foot control with the connection socket of the sewing machine (46).

Close-up of a device component with horizontal lines and a circular button labeled '1', next to a white cable (no text or symbols visible)

On/off switch

When the on/off switch (25) is switched on, the sewing lamp lights up. The sewing machine is now ready to use.

Close-up of hands holding a rectangular object with a sewing machine in the background (no visible text or symbols)

Detachable work support

Swing out the detachable work support (29) to the left.

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine with a white block on a wooden surface (no visible text or symbols)

Accessory compartment

Open the accessory compartment (29).

Interior view of a PFAFF creative 7510 machine with open drawer containing tools and components (no visible text or symbols on main subject)

Sorting the accessories

The enclosed accessories are numbered. Sort them into the corresponding compartments of the accessory box.

Person operating a sewing machine on a workbench, handling a rectangular block (no visible text or symbols)

Removing the detachable work support (free-arm)

In order to sew with the free-arm, swing the detachable work support to the left and lift it up. When you swing it back in again, make sure that the detachable work support is flush with the free-arm of the sewing machine.

Close-up of hands using a tool to cut or mark a mechanical component (no visible text or symbols)

Preparing the machine for bobbin winding

Hold the handwheel (43) firmly and turn the release disk (44) in the direction of the arrow. The needle will not move during the bobbin-winding procedure.

Close-up of a mechanical control panel with buttons and a dial indicator (no readable text or symbols)

Placing the bobbin

Switch off the on/off switch.

Place the empty bobbin so that the black pin of the bobbin winder (42) snaps into the slot of the bobbin.

Close-up of a vintage refrigerator control panel with labeled buttons and a small object on the door, showing Chinese characters.

Push the bobbin to the right.

Note:

The bobbin can only be wound when it is moved fully to the right.

PFAFF creative 7510 PFAFF creative 7510 PFAFF creative 7510

Winding the bobbin from the spool holder

Place the sewing thread on the spool holder (39). To guarantee free movement of the thread and to give additional hold to the thread spool, fit an unwinding disk corresponding to the size of the thread spool.

Threading

Place the thread into guide C and pull it under the thread tension disk B with both hands. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bobbin. Push the bobbin to the right.

Switch on the on/off switch (25)

Hold the end of the thread firmly and press the foot control. The winding action will stop automatically as soon as the bobbin is full. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove it.

Don't forget:

Turn the release disk (44) fully back again. Then turn the handwheel (43) towards you until it snaps into place.

Close-up of a mechanical device with labeled parts B and C, showing internal components and mounting holes (no readable text or symbols beyond labels)

PFAFF creative 7510 PFAFF creative 7510

Close-up of a mechanical device with labeled parts B and C, showing no readable text or symbols beyond labels.

Winding from the second spool holder

Swing the second spool holder (40) up and place a spool of thread with the corresponding unwinding-disk on it.

Threading

Place the thread into guide C and pull it under the thread tension disk B with both hands. Wind the thread clockwise a few times around the bobbin. Push the bobbin to the right.

Switch on the on/off switch (25)

Hold the end of the thread firmly and press the foot control. The winding action will stop automatically as soon as the bobbin is full. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove it.

Don't forget:

Turn the release disk (44) fully back again. Then turn the handwheel (43) towards you until it snaps into place.

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine on a flatbed surface (no visible text or symbols)

Hook cover

Switch off the on/off switch.

Hold the hook cover (48) at the side and open it towards the front.

Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to press or install a small electronic component (no visible text or symbols)

Taking out the bobbin case

Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull the bobbin case out. Release the latch and take out the empty bobbin.

Close-up of a hand holding a small object, possibly a tool or device, with no visible text or symbols.

Thread tension

To obtain optimum seam appearance and durability, make sure needle and bobbin thread tensions are correctly adjusted to each other; i.e. the threads are interlaced between the two fabric layers. For fancy seams and buttonholes, the thread interlace should be visible on the reverse side of the fabric.

Technical diagram showing a hand operating a mechanical component with labeled parts A through F

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case. When doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A and then under tension spring B so that it rests in the opening (see arrow).

Check:

When you pull the thread, the bobbin must turn clockwise.

Checking the bobbin thread tension

Hold the bobbin case by the thread and move your hand sharply upwards. The bobbin case must slip downwards a little with each hand movement.

Correcting the tension:

Turn adjusting screw C just a little counter clockwise to decrease the bobbin thread tension.

Turn adjusting screw C just a little clockwise to increase the bobbin thread tension.

Inserting the bobbin case

Lift latch F and push the bobbin case fully onto pin D of the sewing hook. Opening E of the bobbin case must face upwards. Close the hook cover.

Check:

Pull the bobbin thread sharply; the bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.

A 35 B E 32 PI

Threading the needle thread Switch off the on/off switch

Raise the sewing foot and turn the handwheel until the take up lever (35) has reached its highest position.

Place the thread on the spool holder (39) and fit the corresponding unwinding disk.

Now, using both hands, pull the thread into guide A, following the arrows. Pass the thread to the right or the left of tension disk B and downwards through the left threading slot (33).

Pull the thread around stop E into the right hand threading slot and upwards to the take up lever (35). The thread must be pulled into the take up lever (35) from left to right and downwards again in the right hand threading slot.

Finally, pass the thread from the side behind one of the two thread guides (32).

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine in a workshop (no visible text or symbols)

Technical diagram of a mechanical tool with labeled parts O and R, showing a cutting or machining process.

Needle threader

In order to make the threading of the needle easier and quicker the PFAFF needle threader is provided. Lower the sewing foot (see next page). Tap the foot control to take one stitch and the needle will be in the highest position. Place the needle thread under hook O and hold it taut. Move the needle threader (31) fully downwards and turn it towards the needle so that the small hook R goes through the needle eye. Place the thread in to the hook from below.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical device with directional arrows indicating motion (no text or symbols)

Turn the needle threader towards the rear, releasing the thread carefully, and allow the threader to move upwards. You can now pull the thread through the needle eye.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle with a hand pointing at it, no visible text or symbols

Presser foot lifter

The sewing foot is raised and lowered with the presser foot lifter (26).

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, with hands operating it (no visible text or symbols)

Pulling up the bobbin thread

Raise the sewing foot. Hold the needle thread and tap the foot control once to take one stitch so that the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to bring up the bobbin thread.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, with a hand operating it (no visible text or symbols)

Bobbin thread

Close the hook cover (48) and pull the thread under the sewing foot to the left.

Mechanical device with needle and lever assembly (no visible text or symbols)

Thread trimmer

Pull the threads from the back to the front over the thread trimmer (51).

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle (no visible text or symbols)

Removing the sewing foot Switch off the on/off switch

Set the needle at its highest point. Raise the sewing foot and press the foot upwards at the front and downwards at the back at the same time until it snaps out of the sewing foot holder (30). When disengaging buttonhole foot 5A, the runner must be pulled to the back and pressed upwards.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Engaging the sewing foot

Place the sewing foot under the sewing foot holder (30) so that the pins of the foot snap into the sewing foot holder when the presser foot lifter (26) is lowered

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Check

Please check that the sewing foot is properly engaged by raising the presser foot lifter.

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle, no visible text or symbols

The built in Dual Feed/IDT System (Integrated Dual Transport)

PFAFF offers the ideal solution for sewing difficult materials: the built in Dual Feed. This system feeds the material from the top and the bottom simultaneously just the same as industrial sewing machines. The fabric is fed precisely. On light or difficult materials such as silk and rayon fabrics, the Dual Feed prevents seam puckering. The even feeding action also ensures perfect matching of checked and striped fabrics.

Close-up of a sewing machine stitching striped fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and cutting tool (no visible text or symbols)

Engaging the Dual Feed

Raise the sewing foot. Then push the Dual Feed (53) downwards until it snaps into place.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and footer (no visible text or symbols)

Disengaging the Dual Feed

Hold the Dual Feed with two fingers at the marked place. Push the Dual Feed (53) down a little and out to the rear, then let it move slowly upwards (see page 28).

Black and white striped pattern with no visible text, numbers, or symbols

Important!

For all sewing jobs with the Dual Feed, only use sewing feet with cutout at the back (OA, 1A, 3, 4).

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle, no visible text or symbols

A

Changing the sewing lamp Switch off the on/off switch

To remove: Lower the sewing foot and set the needle at its highest point. Now loosen the fixing screw (28) and pull the needle downwards.

To attach: The flat side A of the needle must face to the rear. Lower the sewing foot and attach the needle, pushing it up as far as it goes. Hold the needle and tighten the fixing screw (28) firmly.

B PFAF

Setting the needle thread tension

Set the required needle thread tension (34) with the help of the marking B.

The normal setting for sewing is 4 to 5. For embroidering and buttonhole sewing it is between 2 and 3.

Pure electrical circuit lines without any symbols

Close-up of a mechanical device with a circular component and a labeled component 'C' (no readable text or symbols beyond the label)

Dropping the feed dog

For certain sewing work, e.g. darning, the feed dog has to be dropped. To do this, open the hook cover (48) and move slide C fully to the right. Now the feed dog is dropped.

L'S F1 T1 P1 A.W. T1 K1 T1 M1 C1 D1 C1 J1 T1 W1 W2 W3 W4 W5 W6 W7 W8 W9 W10 W11 W12 W13 W14 W15 W16 W17 W18 W19 W20 W21 W22 W23 W24 W25 W26 W27 W28 W29 W30 W31 W32 W33 W34 W35 W36 W37 W38 W39 W40 W41 W42 W43 W44 W45 W46 W47 W48 W49 W50 W51 W52 W53 W54 W55 W56 W57 W58 W59 W60 W61 W62 W63 W64 W65 W66 W67 W68 W69 W70 W71 W72 W73 W74 W75 W76 W77 W78 W79 W80 W81 W82 W83 W84 W85 W86 W87 W88 W89 W90 W91 W92 W93 W94 W95 W96 W97 W98 W99 W100

Electronic section

Sewing functions/Pattern combinations

Pages 33-53

34

PFAFF creative 7510

Contents

Adjusting the contrast	Page 36
Language selection	Page 37
Sewing function keys	Pages 38-40
Pattern selection	Pages 41, 42
Stitch length and width	Page 43
Pattern density	Page 44
Balance	Page 45
Sewing help	Page 46
Alphabets	Page 47
Pattern sequence	Pages 48-53

7510 in Germany prog display clear edit

Adjusting the contrast in the display

The contrast setting in the display can change after some use or due to the machine being transported.

This setting can be readjusted with the brightness regulator (24).

prog

Language selection

Press and hold numbered key "1" and switch on the sewing machine. A choice of four languages appears in the display.

prog <<>

By pressing the "display" key, the next four languages are displayed. Select the number of your desired language using the numbered keys "1-0". From now on any description in the display will be shown in the selected language.

You have the choice of the following languages: German, English, French, Spanish, Italian, Swedish, Dutch and Danish.

PFAFF creative 7510 Made in Germany

Description of the sewing function keys

Reverse key (27)

When the reverse key is pressed, the green diode lights up and the machine sews backwards. By pressing this key again, the machine sews forwards.

To tie off, hold this key pressed a little while. In addition, you can use this key to define the bartack for a buttonhole or the length of a darning program.

Bobbin thread monitor (1)

The red diode blinks when the bobbin thread is nearing its end.

|| Twin needle (2)

Press this key when sewing with the twin needles. The stitch width will automatically be decreased by 2 mm to avoid the needle hitting the sewing foot. If the twin needle key is pressed in combination with the program 00, it is not possible to change the needle position. If another pattern is subsequently selected, the message appears in the display:

Twin needle

Round hole needle plate?

Now key (2) must be pressed to disengage the twin needle function and then another pattern can be selected.

Slow sewing (3)

By pressing this key, the sewing speed of the machine is reduced.

- Needle stop (4)

With this key you can determine whether the needle should stop in the fabric (down position) or at its highest point (up position) when releasing the foot control.

"Tacking" key (5)

By pressing this key, the beginning and end of your seam will be automatically tied-off.

display prog clear edit o.k. 0-9 clear A-Z

umbered keys (7)

the numbered keys 1–0 consist of 5 key pairings, each of which has two inscriptions.

general, the settings are increased with + and decreased with -.

I With the numbered keys 1 and 2 you select 2 the stitch programs in groups of ten and the type of alphabet (Program keys).
I With the numbered keys 3 and 4 you select 4 the stitch programs individually. In the alphabet, these keys can be used to select the letters numbers and punctuation points (Program keys).
With these keys you determine the stitch 6 width and the needle position.
With these keys you can determine the 8 stitch length and pattern length.
With the numbered keys 9 and 0 you 0 determine the stitch density and the balance.

Display (8)

a) With this key you call up the sewing help. In the display you will see, from left to right, the information about the correct sewing foot, patterns and the recommended thread tension.
b) This key switches the revolving display in the pattern sequence on or off.
c) All of the languages are displayed by pressing this key in the "select language" mode.

clear (9)

The "clear" key deletes a selected pattern sequence after asking for your confirmation.

edit(10)

With this key you can move between the programming screen and the sewing screen.

edit 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 o.k. 0-9 clear A-Z

Zigzag stitch (22)

This key takes you directly to program 02, zigzag stitch

Pattern mirror (20) (lateral mirror image)

The selected pattern will be sewn back to front, i.e. the end of the pattern will be sewn first.

Pattern mirror (18) (axial mirror image)

The selected pattern will be sewn as a mirror image.

Pattern start (14)

a) Using this key you can return to the beginning of an already started program.
b) For buttonhole and darning programs the programmed length will be deleted.

clear (11)

a) If the wrong pattern number has been entered, you can delete the number from right to left with this key.
b) This key deletes the last pattern in a pattern sequence.

↑ Straight stitch (23)

This key takes you directly to program 00, straight stitch in center needle position.

A-Z (21)

The A-Z key is the direct selection key for all types of alphabets.

Buttonhole key (19)

This key is the direct selection key for all types of buttonholes.

m key (17)

This key allows you to select the M-memory directly.

key (15)

This key is the direct access key for the overlock program.

0-9 (12)

After pressing key 0-9 you can enter the program number of your choice using the numbered keys.

"o.k." (13)

This key confirms your selection.

display prog clear edit

Summary of the options for program selection

You have various options to select a program on the Creative 7510.

a) Selection using the program keys:

As soon as you switch the machine on, the straight stitch (prog. 00) in center needle position appears automatically.

The upper line of the display shows the pattern type. In the bottom line of the display, the program number, the stitch width or needle position, the pattern length or stitch length and the stitch density or balance are displayed from left to right.

The machine is ready to sew with program 00.

display prop class edit

The next programs can be called up with the numbered keys 1, 2 and 3, 4.

display clear edit

b) Numerical program selection

You can also call up a program by entering the program number. When the key "0-9" is pressed, you will see in the display:

Pattern-No.:

Enter the desired pattern number using the numbered keys "1-0" (7) and press "o.k." (13). The display shows the selected program. If the wrong program number is entered, it can be deleted from right to left by pressing the "clear" key (11).

display clear prog 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 edit

c) Program selection key "↑"

The program selection key (23) takes you directly to program 00, straight stitch in center needle position.

From here you can call up further programs with keys 1, 2, 3 and 4.

display clear edit

Altering the stitch width/Pattern width

The machine selects automatically the default stitch or pattern width, every time a new program is selected. These values can be increased and reduced with the numbered keys 5 and 6.

In the programs 00, 01, 10 and 11, this symbol " " appears in the display. Now the needle position and not the stitch width can be changed. You have max. 19 needle positions to choose from. The needle must always be in its highest position when changing the needle position.

display prog clear edit

Altering the stitch length/Pattern length

The machine selects automatically the default stitch or pattern length every time a new program is selected. These values can be increased and reduced with the numbered keys 7 and 8.

display clear edit

Altering the pattern density

Select example program number 37.

It is possible to alter the pattern density in some programs without altering the total pattern length.

As soon as a default value (e.g. 0.35) appears in the bottom right hand corner of the display, you can increase or reduce the value with the numbered keys 9 and 0.

display clear edit

For patterns whose density cannot be altered (e.g. program 71), the balance is altered with the numbered keys 9 and 0 instead.

Balance

Reverse stitch correction

Embroidery patterns can vary on different fabric types - heavy material is fed differently than fine silk. The Creative has a correction system which lets you sew optimum embroidery stitches: the balance. With this system the reverse feed can be adjusted.

50 mm 100 display prog clear actt 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 T A-Z D-0 clean

1) Reverse feed

To close up or stretch out patterns, the balance for the reverse feed is used.

After having selected a 9 mm pattern, you will see the value 0 in the bottom right hand corner of the display.

preg Display ulam ech

The standard setting of the balance is "0". Using the numbered keys 9 and 0 the reverse feed of the machine can be altered within a range of -7 to +7. In the minus range, the reverse stitches become shorter. The overall length of a pattern will sew out longer.

prop 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 A-2 display check edit

In the plus range, the reverse stitches become longer. The overall length of a pattern will sew out shorter.

display clear edit

Sewing help

With the "display" key, you can call up the help file for any pattern.

After having selected a pattern, e.g. 04, press the "display" key. You are given sewing recommendations for optimum sewing results.

The sewing help is divided from left to right into:

• Sewing foot (2A) without top feed
• Sewing foot (3) with top feed

◆ Pattern mirror (x) (axial mirror image) (mirroring is possible when an x appears in the display)
Pattern mirror (x) (lateral mirror image) (mirroring is possible when an x appears in the display).
Thread tension (3-5)

As soon as the "display" key, a "program" key or a "pattern selection" key is pressed, the sewing help switches off.

display clear edit

Alphabets

There are two types of alphabet to choose from: script letters in upper case (aA) and block letters in upper case (bA)

All of the alphabets contain their own numbers and punctuation marks. (e.g. a0)

By pressing the pattern selection key "A-Z" (21), the script alphabet is selected. The letter "A" appears and can be sewn immediately.

These alphabets can be sewn in a width up to 9 mm and they can be saved as word sequences in an M-Memory.

display ring clear edit

With the numbered program keys 1 and 2, you can select the desired alphabet and numbers.

prog display clear edit

With the numbered program keys 3 and 4, you can select the desired letter or digit and punctuation mark. The size of the characters can be altered with keys 5 and 6.
You can alter the balance with keys 9 and 0.

display clear prog 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

Creating a pattern sequence

In order to create a pattern sequence, several patterns or letters must be combined. Up to 80 patterns can be programmed in each memory.

After pressing the "m" key, the message appears in the display:

Pattern sequence 0 M

display clear edit

Now press the "edit|☐" key to get to the programming screen.

The message appears in the display:

M

$$ \mathbf {0 0} \leftarrow \rightarrow 2. 5 $$

P stands for pattern sequence and appears in the top line of the display. In the bottom line of the display, the straight stitch 00 with stitch position center appears.

A pattern sequence can only be created when you are in the programming screen. You can recognize the programming screen by the fact that "Pattern sequence" does not appear in the top line of the display but rather only the abbreviation "P".

display prog

Now press the "A-Z" key. Select the desired alphabet with the numbered program keys 1 and 2. With the numbered keys 3 and 4, select your letter, digit or punctuation mark.

display prog clear edit

By pressing the "o.k." key, your selection and the initial symbol "<" is entered into the pattern sequence. The message appears in the display:

M < P

bP

7.0

0

display clear edit

The stitch width which is set for the first letter should remain valid for all of the following letters in the word. The stitch width must be altered before entering the letter.

Enter your entire text.

In this example "PFAFF".

prog display clear edit

Press "edit" when you want to sew the word. You are now in the sewing screen and the following message appears in the display.

Pattern sequence 5 M < PFAFF

The top line of the display shows that 5 patterns are saved in the pattern sequence. The bottom line of the display shows the M-memory which you are in and what is stored in the M-memory.

The pattern sequence is only then saved and is not lost when the machine is turned off when the "edit" key is pressed after entering the pattern sequence.

If more than 6 patterns, 16 letters or numbers are entered, the moving display can be switched on with the key "display" (8). Pressing the "display" key again stops the moving display. When beginning to sew or when the "edit|☐" key is pressed, the display jumps to the beginning of the sequence.

display clear edit

Delete pattern sequence

If you enter the wrong letter or pattern, you can delete the last entry in the pattern sequence with the "clear" key (11).

With the "clear" key (9), you can delete the entire pattern sequence after the computer asks if you are sure. To do so, you must be in the sewing screen. The message appears in the display:

Entire pattern sequence delete o.k.?

If you now press the "o.k." key, the entire pattern sequence will be deleted. If you do not wish to delete the entire pattern sequence press the "clear" key or "m" and the sewing screen of your pattern sequence will appear in the display.

If the machine is switched on while holding the "clear" key (11), the M-memory will be deleted without the computer asking you if you are sure.

display clear edit

You can combine not only letters but also patterns in a pattern sequence. Select the M-Memory and press the "edit" key to get to the programming screen. Now press key "0-9".

The message appears:

M

Pattern No.:

display clear edit

Enter the pattern number of your choice using the numbered keys "1-0" (e.g. 72) and press "o.k." The message appears in the display:

M 72 9.0 10 0

The width, length and the balance can still be altered. What is more, some patterns can be mirrored with the keys (18) and (20). After this, press "o.k." and the pattern number is taken into the pattern sequence along with the initial symbol "<".

Important: As soon as you press "o.k.", an altered pattern will be displayed once again with the standard values.

display prog clear edit

Now select the pattern of your choice with the program keys 1, 2 or 3, 4 (e.g. 83). The width, length and stitch density can still be altered. Press "o.k."

With the pattern selection key "↑" (23), you can return immediately to Prog. 00 and you can select further patterns with the numbered keys 1, 2 or 3, 4.

The message appears in the display:

M <72 83 83 9.0 14 0

display clear edit

Pattern sequence is full

If you try to save more than 80 patterns in one memory, the message appears:

M0 49 65 70 63 42

Memory full

With "o.k." you return to the selected pattern sequence and can delete patterns or exit the pattern sequence with the "edit|☐" key.

PFAFF

creative

7510 B

PFAFF creative 7510 Made in Germany

Instruction manual

Black-and-white portrait of a woman in a white coat, seated with hands clasped (no visible text or symbols)

Utility stitches

Pages 55-81

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Straight stitch

Program 00 is the basic straight stitch in center needle position. The stitch length can be increased up to 6 mm as required.

Some sewing jobs can be done more easily by changing the needle position, e.g. topstitching a collar or sewing in a zipper. With keys 5 and 6 you can select 19 needle positions. When doing so make sure that the needle is in the highest position.

Pure geometric diagram of a rectangular plate with diagonal lines and marked points (no text or symbols)

Basting stitch

With program 07 you can baste a garment before trying it on. When you press the foot control the machine will only make one stitch. For each further stitch you have to press the foot control each time.

• Lower the bottom feed and disengage the top feed.
• Place the fabric under the sewing foot.
• Sew one stitch, then pull the fabric the required amount to the rear.
• Repeat this as many times as you need to finish the work.

TIP: To prevent the fabric layers from shifting, insert dress pins crosswise to the basting position. Light fabrics are easier to baste with long straight stitches (6 mm). In this case the bottom feed need not be lowered.

When the sewing help is selected with the "display" key the upper display line shows "lower", i.e. you are reminded that the bottom feed must be lowered.

display clear edit

The Creative 7510 has a safety device for using the twin needle and even more importantly for the round hole needle plate (special accessory).

To prevent the needles from hitting the needle plate and breaking, one should sew only with the straight stitch, center needle position when using the round hole needle plate. If you select other programs, the Creative engages its safety locking device.

In order to do this you switch on the sewing machine, the straight stitch 00 appears. Now press the key "twin needle" (2). The symbol "←→" on the display for the needle position to be changed disappears. Now it is no longer possible to select further programs.

If you do select another program, the following message appears on the display:

Twin needle

Round hole stitch plate?

To be able to sew the new program, you first have to remove the round hole stitch plate and the key "twin needle" must be pressed again.

However, if you wish to do embroidery with the twin needle (see page 104), select the desired program and then engage the twin needle with key (2). Thus the stitch width decreases automatically and the needle is prevented from touching the foot.

Black and white photo of a mechanical device with no visible text or symbols

Zigzag stitch

With zigzag stitch 02, all edges can be serged easily. Make sure that while serging an edge the needle goes into the fabric and over the edge alternately.

In program 27 the width of the zigzag stitch changes from the right needle position on.

If you press the pattern mirror key (20), the stitch width changes starting from the left needle position, e.g. for eyelet embroidery and cording work.

Technical diagram of a mechanical assembly with labeled parts A, B, and C

For serging thin and difficult materials, blind stitch foot No. 3 is very suitable. When sewing, the thread goes over bar C thus preventing the edge from curling. That way you obtain a beautiful straight seam.

The trimmed edge must be guided along stop B. You can regulate the stop with regulating screw A. Important: Use the blind stitch foot only in program 27, without pattern mirror.

Pure black rectangle with a thin white line on the left edge, no text or symbols present

Program 16 is an especially beautiful stitch for appliqué work. The zigzag seam is flat and even and makes the sewing work look more professional. The stitch length setting is approximately 0.4-0.5 mm.

Close-up of a textured surface with two vertical lines and a wavy pattern, no visible text or symbols.

Blind stitch

Blind stitch 04 is best suited for invisible hems; sewing by hand is unnecessary.

• Serge the edge of the hem.
• Fold the edge inwards one hem width.
• Now unfold the hem again so that the hem edge protrudes by about 1 cm ( ^1/_2 inch).
• Now place the fabric under blind stitch foot no. 3 so that the crease line runs along edge guide B.
• When the needle enters the crease line it must only pick up one fibre of the fabric.

Technical diagram of a mechanical assembly with labeled parts A and B, showing cross-sectional views and components.

If the stitch punctures are visible on the face side, stop B must be regulated with regulating screw A.

Prog. 04 Prog. 05

Program 05 is a blind stitch for elastic fabrics. The hem is sewn and serged at the same time, thus a serging of the edge is not necessary.

Abstract pattern with a vertical black bar on a textured gray background (no text or symbols)

Automatic darning

The Creative 7510 has a fully automatic darning program. This program; No. 24, is suited mainly for reinforcing slightly damaged spots.

• Stitch over the damaged area to the required length.
• Press the reverse key; the machine finishes sewing the darning program and the darning length is thus saved.

Scanned text fragment with Chinese characters and a vertical line, likely from a document or form.

Bartack

With program 03 you have the possibility to sew bartacks on thick fabric.

• Lower the bottom feed
• Sew the bartack with program 03. If only a part of the bartack is stitched over, leave the needle in the fabric, turn the fabric and repeat the operation.

1

2

- The darning length that has been saved can now be used as often as needed.

Depending on the type of material, the darning pattern may shift to one side. Using keys 9 and 0 you can straighten the pattern again.

Fig. 1: In this case you have to increase the balance with key 0.

Fig. 2: In this case you have to reduce the balance with key 9.

The programmed darning length can be deleted with the "pattern start" key (14) or by changing the program.

Mechanical sewing machine needle stitching a circular base on a textured floor (no text or symbols visible)

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle stitching a circular base (no text or symbols)

Sewing on buttons

With program 09 you can sew on two- or four-hole buttons without any problems.

• Remove the sewing foot and lower the bottom feed.
• Place the button on the place marked.
• Turn the handwheel towards you and position the button so that the needle enters the left hole in the button.
• Now lower the presser foot lifter; the button is now held by the sewing foot holder.
• Now sew on the button. Make sure that the needle also enters the right hole in the button.
• The machine sews a tack and the program is completed.

When selecting sewing help with the "display" key the upper display line shows "lower", i.e. you are reminded that the bottom feed must be lowered.

Sewing on buttons with thread shanks

• Attach sewing foot No. 2A
• Place a match between the holes of the button and sew it on as described on the left.

Two mechanical diagrams showing a rotating knob with arrows indicating motion (no text or symbols)

• Remove the match and pull the button and fabric apart.
• Wrap the shank with sewing thread and knot it.

Abstract pattern of black circular dots arranged in a grid on a white background (no text or symbols)

Eyelets

If you wish to stitch eyelets on a belt or linens, select program 08.

• Place the fabric under the sewing foot.
• Press the "single pattern" key during the sewing operation. The machine now only sews one eyelet and tacks at the end.
• Cut open the eyelet.

The machine offers five eyelet sizes which can be changed with the numbered keys 5 and 6.

Program 08 can also be combined with embroidery stitch programs for beautiful embroidery.

Close-up of a textured fabric with a curved seam or seam, no visible text or symbols

Stretch triple straight stitch

Program 01 is used for sewing all seams where great strength is needed, e.g. inside trouser seams. The heavier the fabric, the longer the stitch length you need. Maximum stitch length is 6.0 mm.

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TIP: If you wish to topstitch a collar edge with this program, extend the stitch length to the desired length up to 4–6 mm. Use the functions "needle down" and "single pattern". Do not press the single pattern key until you reach the last stitch before the corner. The machine stops after the stitch and the needle stays in the material. Now turn the fabric and switch off the "single pattern" key. You can set 15 needle positions with the numbered keys 5 and 6.

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With saddle stitch program 11 you can also sew elastic fabric.

In this program, in contrast to the stretch triple straight stitch, only every second stitch is sewn threefold. It is, therefore, also suitable for topstitching work on jackets and coats.

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Single stem stitch

Due to the zigzag appearance of this stitch, program 21 is particularly suitable for seams on two-way elastic materials such as leggings and sportswear.

TIP: This stitch is also suitable for sewing seams where great strength is needed, such as on inside-legs.

Close-up of a zigzag line pattern on a textured background (no text or symbols)

Stretch triple zigzag stitch

The stretch triple zigzag stitch, Prog. 23, produces a highly elastic and decorative seam which is very suitable for hems on T-shirts and underwear.

• Serge the edge of the hem.
• Fold the hem inwards to the desired width.
• Topstitch the hem from the face side.

Grayscale abstract texture with vertical dark streaks and textured surface (no text or symbols)

Elastic stitch

Due to their high elasticity, programs 03 and 15 are used for sewing elastic onto fabrics. Program 03 has 2 intermediate stitches and program 15 has one intermediate stitch.

• Divide fabric and elastic into quarters and mark.
• Match the marks as you sew, stretching the elastic to fit the fabric.

Close-up of a mechanical component with mesh texture and a small inset view (no visible text or symbols)

Honeycomb stitch

The honeycomb stitch, program 14, is an elastic and decorative hem which is perfectly suited as a hemstitch for underwear and T-shirts.

- Fold the seam edge over twice and overstitch it.

Blank textured surface with diagonal hatching on the right edge (no text or symbols)

What is an overlock stitch?

For knit and other stretch materials, the Creative offers a selection of overlock stitches. These join two layers of fabric and serge them in one operation. They have a higher elasticity than usual stitches, they are more durable and what is more, they are very fast to sew.

TIP: We recommend using blind stitch foot No. 3 when sewing overlock seams. This guides the fabric better and prevents tunneling of the seam at wider stitch widths.

Open overlock stitch

Prog. 29

With this stitch it is easy to join firm materials or fabrics which do not fray too much.

TIP: Make sure that the needle at its farthest right-hand position just misses the edge of the material.

Closed overlock stitch

With program 25 you can sew jersey-quality fabrics perfectly. You can also sew on cuffs and collars extremely durably with it.

TIP: Make sure that the cuff is stretched while sewing.

Close-up of a textured surface with a vertical seam or crack on the right side (no text or symbols visible)

Closed overlock stitch with edge thread

Prog. 06

If you wish to sew a material that frays easily, select program 06. With this stitch an additional edge thread protects the fabric edge against fraying.

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Pullover stitch

Prog. 20

Used together with the knit-edge foot (special accessories), this stitch can even be used for open-knit fabrics. Fashion-knit garment sections can also be joined effortlessly with this stitch.

TIP: To prevent the seam from stretching while sewing, it is advisable to add a woollen thread or length of yarn under light tension.

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What are flatlock seams?

Where seam allowances and serged edges are inconvenient, flatlock seams are used. These seams are extremely flat, they join butted fabric layers and serge them at the same time. This produces the typical flatlock effect which lends a professional look to collar plackets or raglan seams.

Abstract black zigzag line on textured gray background (no text or symbols)

Fancy elastic stitch

Prog. 18

The fancy elastic stitch is very useful for materials that need a flat seam, for example terry cloth.

- Place the two fabric edges so that they overlap by about 2 cm ( ^3/_4 of an inch) and overstitch each edge with fancy elastic stitches.

3mm

Fagoting stitch

Prog. 17

With the fagoting stitch you can make very elastic seams with a hemstitching effect, for example on corsetry.

• Serge the fabric edges and tack-baste them onto the reverse side.
• Lay the edges to be sewn with about 3 mm between them under the sewing foot.
  • Overstitch from the face side ensuring that the needle catches both the right and left hand side pieces of material.

Close-up of a textured fabric background with a horizontal black patterned band (no text or symbols)

Cross stitch

'rog. 19

Dwing to its high elasticity, the cross stitch is very suitable for decorative hems, e.g. on T-shirts and underwear.

Serge the fabric edge.
Baste over the seam margin to the reserve side.
- Stitch over the hem from the face side. When doing so, make sure the fabric edge is properly overstitched.

Close-up of a curved fabric with a coiled spring-like pattern (no text or symbols)

Light-knit mending stitch

Prog. 28

The light-knit mending stitch is a stretchable covering stitch. It is very suitable for overstitching cuffs in stretch materials, e.g. sweatshirts or sports-wear.

• Sew the cuff onto the part with an overlock stitch.
• Now the seam allowance can be overstitched from the face side of the fabric. Make sure that the needle enters the fabric close against the seam.

Black-and-white photo of a woman in a coat holding her head, standing in front of a bar with bottles and shelves (no visible text or symbols)

Buttonholes

The Creative 7510 offers you the perfect button-hole for all types of materials and garments. Whether you are sewing jackets, trousers, blouses or elastic materials, 5 different buttonhole styles lend a professional finish to your fashions.

You only have to program your buttonhole in the required length once. All further buttonholes will be sewn in the stored length automatically.

Set the needle thread tension at +3.

So that every single buttonhole is exactly the right size, the Creative 7510 is equipped with the buttonhole guide No. 10 and sensor technology. Using this equipment you can sew perfect button-holes even on the most difficult materials such as velvet, plush, heavy knit or woollen fabrics.

Buttonhole foot No. 5A.

Before starting a buttonhole, always push the runner up to the second red mark so that the red arrow is level with this mark. The red marks are 0.5 cm apart. They are for orientation when selecting the length of the buttonhole.

With the following tips you will sew perfect buttonholes even on the most difficult fabrics:

• Buttonholes which are sewn close to an edge cannot be fed optimally using the buttonhole foot. A better result can be achieved by using sewing foot No. 1A with the Dual Feed engaged.
• Materials that tend to stretch easily should be stabilized.
• Keyhole buttonholes are particularly durable and prominent if sewn with a gimp thread (see section "keyhole buttonhole with gimp thread").
• Linen buttonholes (standard buttonholes) look more dense and attractive when embroidery or darning thread is used.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

If you wish to create perfect buttonholes of a uniform size, even on the most difficult materials, we recommend you use the buttonhole guide. Attach the buttonhole foot No. 5A. If you are working with thick materials such as overcoats, we recommend using foot 1A and the Dual Feed together with the buttonhole guide.

All of the following buttonholes can be sewn with the buttonhole guide.

Inserting the buttonhole guide:

1. Remove the detachable work support.
2. Push the metal part of the buttonhole guide into the slot below the needle plate from the rear (between the two arrows). The white plastic part is over the needle plate.
3. Push the guide forwards until the catch lies against the rear of the free-arm. The guide must spring back a little to obtain a small distance between the needle plate and catch. Without this clearance, the second bartack of the button-hole will not be sewn.

Inserting the buttonhole guide activates the sensor.

You can choose from the following buttonholes:

1. Standard buttonhole No. 30

(for blouses, shirts, dresses etc.)

• fully automatic
• semi automatic

2. Stretch buttonhole No. 31

for highly elastic materials and heavy knit fabrics.

• fully automatic
• semi automatic

3. Cross stitch buttonhole No. 32

for fine elastic materials and for decorative buttonholes.

• fully automatic
• semi automatic

4. Blouse buttonhole No. 33

for ladies' fashion, especially blouses and dresses.

- fully automatic

5. Keyhole buttonhole No. 34

for jackets, overcoats and trousers
- fully automatic

prog display A-2

With key No. (19) you can directly select the buttonhole programs. In the display you will see the buttonhole program 30. With the numbered keys 3 and 4 you can call up all further buttonhole programs.

display prog clear 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

Standard buttonhole No. 30

Fully automatic with the buttonhole guide 10 and the buttonhole foot 5A.

Select the buttonhole program 30. This is the standard buttonhole with a length set at 14mm that can be varied from 7.0mm to 44mm as desired with numbered keys 7 and 8. The width can also be varied from 2.5mm to 5.5mm with

the numbered keys 5 and 6. Use the buttonhole guide and the buttonhole foot and sew the button-hole.

The sewing machine sews the buttonhole fully automatically in the programmed length and ties off at the end.

blue green red blue green blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange orange

Standard buttonhole semi automatic

For this buttonhole the length and bartack are entered while sewing.

After having programmed the first buttonhole, the following buttonholes are sewn fully automatically. For semi automatic buttonholes, not only the buttonhole length and stitch width can be set, but also the stitch density.

prop display close

Select the buttonhole program 30 and press the numbered key 4. In the display you will see buttonhole No. 30 with the message "prog. buttonhole".

The machine displays a standard width of 4.5 mm and a stitch length of 0.5 mm. You can alter the width with the numbered keys 5 and 6. If you require a particularly dense buttonhole, select the setting 0.35 or 0.3 with the numbered keys 7 and 8.

prog display

The total length of the buttonhole is defined during the sewing operation with the help of the "reverse" key (27). Sew the first buttonhole seam in the length required. You can orientate yourself on the red markings on the buttonhole foot. Press the "reverse" key. The machine now sews the first bartack and the second buttonhole bead.

Shortly before the buttonhole is finished, the sewing machine reduces sewing speed. As soon as the second buttonhole bead has reached the length of the first bead you must press the "reverse" key again. The machine sews the second bartack and ties off. When the buttonhole is finished, all following buttonholes can be sewn fully automatically in the same length.

In the display you will see the message:

"auto buttonhole".

prog display

Self defining the second bartack (semi automatic)

With difficult fabrics such as velvet, it can happen that the machine feeds the fabric unevenly and that the buttonhole beads are therefore not the same length.

It is possible to define the second bead yourself for all of the programmed buttonholes. If you press the "reverse" key before you start sewing or while sewing, the message appears: "Finish manually".

The buttonhole will then be sewn automatically, however, the sewing machine will reduce the sewing speed before the buttonhole is finished. As soon as the second buttonhole bead is as long as the first bead, press the "reverse" key. The Creative will sew the second bartack and tie-off.

Important: The self definition of the second bartack with "finish manually" must be carried out for each buttonhole separately.

TIP: You can stop the slow sewing at the end of the reverse bead by removing your foot from the foot control. As soon as you re-engage the foot control, the machine finishes sewing the button-hole at normal speed.

Deleting the programming:

The programming of the buttonhole is deleted by selecting another program.

display preg A-2

Adapting the buttonhole bead length with the balance

On highly slippery fabrics it may happen that the stitch density of the left bead turns out differently to that of the right bead. In this case, the bead density can be adjusted using the balance. The balance appears on the right in the display and can be set with the numbered keys 9 and 0.

a + b

And this is how to adjust the balance:

If the seam is too short (fig. a) you must use key 0 to move more to the plus side. The higher the plus number, the longer the reverse stitches, i.e. the left buttonhole bead becomes automatically longer. If the left buttonhole bead is too long (fig. b) you must use the 9 key to move more to the minus side. The higher the minus number, the shorter the reverse stitches, i.e. the left buttonhole bead becomes automatically shorter.

Close-up of a sewing machine component with labeled parts A and B (no visible text or symbols beyond labels)

Buttonholes with gimp thread

Buttonholes which are sewn with a gimp thread are more durable and neater. Use pearl cotton or a regular gimp thread as available at your sewing machine dealer.

- Place the gimp thread over the back ridge A of the buttonhole foot, pull the thread ends forwards and clamp them to the right and left respectively of the front ridge B.

• Push the runner forwards up to the second marking.
• Now sew buttonhole No. 30 or 31.

Close-up of a black rectangular object with a white curved line extending from it, against a textured gray background (no text or symbols visible)

- After finishing the buttonhole, pull the left thread until the loop is covered by the buttonhole bartack.

Scanned text of contract clauses with a black rectangular seal on a textured background

- Cut off the loose ends close to the bartack.

Stretch buttonholes/Cross stitch buttonholes

These buttonholes are particularly suitable for stretch fabrics such as jogging suits. They can, however, also be used as decorative buttonholes.

Stretch buttonhole No. 31 and cross stitch button-hole No. 32 can be sewn fully automatically or semi automatically (see standard buttonhole).

The procedure for the self definition of the second bartack is the same as for the standard buttonhole.

Front panel of an analog computer control panel with display, buttons, and rotary dial indicators

found buttonhole

important! The round buttonhole should be placed with the round end facing the edge. The sewing of he buttonhole, however, begins at the bartack.

Always sew the buttonholes from the inside outwards towards the edge.

Mark the length of the buttonhole on the fabric first, making sure to measure from the starting point inwards.

The round buttonhole is automatically sewn between a length of 7 and 40 mm. The width is between 4 and 7 mm.

• Select buttonhole No. 33.
• The pre-programmed buttonhole length of 22 mm appears in the display. If you wish, you can alter this length with the numbered keys 7 and 8.
• The second bartack can also be self defined for this buttonhole (see standard buttonhole).

The stitch density cannot be changed for this buttonhole. Therefore you should sew this buttonhole with a stronger thread or gimp thread if required (see section "Buttonhles with gimp thread").

The stitch density of the second bead can be adjusted with the balance.

Important! Before you start the buttonhole, push the runner of buttonhole foot No. 5A forwards up to the second red mark.

prop OK Display OK

Keyhole buttonholes

Important! The keyhole buttonhole should be placed with the round end facing the edge. The sewing of the buttonhole, however, starts at the bartack. Mark the buttonhole length on the fabric first, making sure to mark from the starting points to the inside.

Always sew the buttonholes from the inside outwards to the edge.

The keyhole buttonhole is automatically sewn between a length of 10 and 40 mm. The width is between 5.5 and 8.5 mm.

• Select buttonhole No. 34.
• The pre-programmed buttonhole length of 22 mm appears in the display. If you wish, you can alter this length with the numbered keys 7 and 8.
• The second bartack can also be self defined for this buttonhole (see standard buttonhole).
• The stitch density cannot be changed for this buttonhole. Therefore you should sew this buttonhole with a stronger thread or gimp thread if required (see section "Buttonholes with gimp thread").

Important! Before you start the buttonhole, push the runner of buttonhole foot No. 5A forwards up to the second red mark.

TIP: Cut open all buttonholes with the seam ripper. Use an awl to perforate the round end of the keyhole buttonhole.

Top-down view of a sewing machine on a flatbed surface (no visible text or symbols)

(eyhole buttonhole with gimp thread

Place the gimp thread over the front ridge. Pull the head ends taut backwards under the sewing foot. Clamp them right and left of the back ridge respectively.

• Push the runner forwards up to the second red mark.
• Before you start sewing, press the "needle down" key (4).
• Sew the first buttonhole bead.

Mechanical device with a light bulb and internal components, no visible text or symbols

- When the machine sews the first stitches of the eyelet, pull down the gimp thread from the back ridge using an ordinary pin.

important: The sewing foot may not be raised during this procedure!

• Pull the gimp thread to the left and backwards until the loop is just in front of the needle.
  Now sew the eyelet carefully.

- Then, hold the gimp thread slightly tauter and finish sewing the buttonhole. Cut off the loose ends of the gimp thread. The round buttonhole with gimp thread is sewn in the same way.

Black-and-white photo of a woman walking with a handbag, no visible text or symbols

Practical sewing

Pages 83-97

84

Black-and-white photo of a woman sitting on a textured surface, wearing patterned clothing (no visible text or symbols)

Contents

General sewing help Page 86

Hems with the twin needle Page 87

Gathering Page 88, 89

Smocking Page 90

Darning Page 91, 92

Sewing in zippers Pages 93, 94

Roll hemming Page 95

Lace Page 96

Shell edging Page 97

Close-up of a mechanical component with a dark central feature and a small protrusion, mounted on a white surface (no visible text or symbols)

Needle thread tension

To achieve the optimum results from your sewing machine, the needle thread tension and the bobbin thread tension must be correctly adjusted to each other. The normal setting for utility stitches is between 3 and 5.

Check the tension with a wide zigzag stitch. The thread interlace must be between the layers of fabric.

If the needle thread tension is to tight, the thread interlace will be on the upper side of the fabric. If the needle thread tension is too loose, the thread interlace will be on the reverse side of the fabric.

The adjustment of the bobbin thread tension is described on page 25.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine on a textured fabric floor, showing needle and base components (no text or symbols)

Top stitching

The program 00 allows you to change the needle position with the numbered keys 5 and 6 in such a way that you can guide the sewing foot along the edge of the fabric while doing top stitching. If, however, you wish to carry out wider spaced top stitching, this is made easier for you by the engraved guide-lines on the needle plate or by the guide rule 8. The guide rule is placed in hole C and screwed tight with set screw F.

Illustration of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, with no visible text or symbols

Sewing help for thick seams

In order to guarantee the uniform feed of the fabric when beginning sewing, we recommend that the sewing foot be propped up to the height of the fabric by a piece of fabric of the same thickness.

Close-up of a textured fabric surface with vertical striations and a horizontal seam (no text or symbols)

Hems with the twin needle

Prog. 00

You can sew professional hems quickly and easily on stretch fabrics such as T-shirts, knits or bicycle shorts with the twin needle. The twin needle is available in various widths. The normal width for top stitching is 4 mm. Before switching on the prog. 00, press key 2 "twin needle".

• First iron the hem crease at the desired width.
• Then sew through the hem from the face side of the fabric.
• Finally cut the overhanging edge of the hem up to the seam.

TIP: For difficult fabrics such as ribbing knits it is advisable to baste the hem over before sewing.

a 33

Threading the twin needle

Replace the sewing needle with the twin needle.
- Swing the second spool holder up and place one spool onto each spool holder.
- The tension disk a is in the threading slot (33). Take care when threading that one of the threads passes on the left and the other on the right of the tension disk.

32

• The threads are to be threaded as usual, taking care that they do not get twisted with each other.
• Pull the threads into the right and left thread guide (32) respectively and thread the needles

Close-up of a sewing machine foot and ankle mechanism (no visible text or symbols)

Black-and-white abstract texture with vertical striations and no discernible text or symbols

Gathering with the straight stitch

If you wish to gather sleeves, skirts, cuffs or valances, this technique is the easiest and most commonly used. To obtain neat and even gathers, you should sew two or three gathering seams. Select program 00 and lengthen the stitch length to 6 mm. The needle thread tension should be reduced to 3.

• Mark the first line on the face side of the fabric and sew this seam. Leave thread tail of about 10–20 cm.
  • Further seams can be sewn at one sewing foot width from each other.

• Gather the fabric by pulling the bobbin threads of the seams. You determine the amount of gather yourself.
- Spread out the folds created by the gathering evenly and then tie the thread on the reverse side. This secures the gather.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, showing mechanical components and fabric texture (no text or symbols visible)

Close-up of textured fabric with diagonal dark lines and a horizontal dotted line (no text or symbols)

Gathering with elastic threads

This kind of gathering is particularly suitable for visible, elastic gathering on blouse sleeves, waist seams or neck cutouts.

• Mark the first gathering seam line on the reverse side of the fabric.
• Allow program 14 to sew a few stitches and stop with the needle in the fabric. The needle must be positioned in the middle of the sewing foot. Then lift the sewing foot and place the elastic thread around the needle.

• Lower the sewing foot and sew a few stitches. Then pull both ends of the elastic threads.

• You determine the amount of gather by the amount you pull the threads as you sew.

• You can also change the amount of gather after sewing by pulling the ends of the elastic threads.
• Tie off the threads.

TIP: The pintuck foot (special accessories) is particularly suitable for gathering. Due to its guide grooves, the elastic is fed uniformly during the sewing process.

Close-up of a mechanical device with a metallic component, resting on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Smocking

Smocking is a technique with which several seams sewn parallel to each other produce a gathering effect which is mainly used for children's wear and corsetry. There are different techniques:

1) Smocking with gimp thread (non-elastic)

Prog. 14 or 18

For beautiful smocking effects you will need two and one half to three times the desired finished width of fabric.

The smocked section is usually made before the rest of the garment. Light, firm materials such as batiste or fine linen are best suited for this technique. Draw a straight line on the fabric as a guideline for the first gathering seam using a disappearing-ink marker or almost invisible non-greasy chalk. Attach the appliqué foot (special accessories) and the edge guide bar. Place the fabric to be smocked, face side down under the sewing foot and introduce the gimp thread under the sewing foot in such a way that it runs exactly along the groove in the foot. Now sew the first row of smocking and leave a tail of about 10 cm (4-5 inches) of thread protruding from the beginning and end of the seam. Then place the edge guide bar at the desired distance to the first row (approx. 2-2.5 cm = 1/2-3/4 of an inch). Varying the distance between rows creates different gathering effects. Now sew the next row of smocking using the edge guide bar on the first row as a guideline. Continue in this manner until you have sewn as many rows as the design requires.

Then carefully pull the ends of the gimp thread and gather the fabric uniformly over its entire width.

Close-up of textured fabric with repeating cloud-like patterns (no text or symbols)

2) Smocking with elastic thread Prog. 00

For this technique, elastic thread is wound onto the bobbin without tension. The needle thread is a regular sewing or embroidery thread. Since elastic threads are much thicker than normal bobbin threads, the tension on the bobbin case must be set extremely loose.

However, the tighter you set the bobbin-thread tension, the greater the gathering effect you obtain. We recommend that an additional bobbin case be used for this work. For this kind of smocking, fine and light materials such as light-knit fabric, silk or satin are also suitable.

• Always sew a test seam first, to test the level of gather.
- Draw the first line on the face side of the fabric and then sew along this line.
- The following seams can be sewn at one sewing-foot width to the first row.
- When sewing several, parallel seams, the material must be stretched to its original length to avoid uneven gathers.
- Tie off the threads on the reverse side.

Technical diagram of sewing machine components with labeled parts A through G and a grid pattern below

Darning with the straight stitch

Prog. 00

Attach the darning foot: Set the needle at its highest position and push the pin of the darning foot fully into the hole C of the sewing foot holder. When doing this, the guide fork G should position itself around the presser bar. The arm E must be behind the fixing screw F. Now tighten screw D.

Darning position:

Lower the presser-foot lifter while pushing it lightly to the rear. This snaps the presser-foot lifter into notch B (darning position).

• Place the darning work in the darning hoop.
• Drop the feed dog.
• Pull up the bobbin thread and hold the threads when you start sewing.
• Darn the damaged area by guiding the fabric back and forth evenly in the prescribed direction while ensuring that each line ends with a small curve. This helps to avoid the fabric ripping again.
• When you have finished sewing the damaged area, rotate the fabric a half turn and darn the area once again.

You determine the stitch length yourself by moving the fabric back and forth at the required speed.

TIP: If you are moving the fabric too slowly, small knots will appear on the reverse side of the fabric.

Abstract pattern of interwoven black lines on a textured gray background (no text or symbols)

Darning with elastic stitch

Prog. 03

The elastic stitch is very suitable for repairing holes, tears and damaged areas.

Depending on the size of the damaged area, sew over this area with rows of elastic stitches until it is well covered. When doing so, make sure that the stitch rows overlap each other.

Pure diagram of springs arranged in a square frame without any text, numbers, or symbols

Sewing on patches

The best way to darn larger holes is to cover the damaged area with a piece of new material. Baste the piece of new material from the face side and overstitch its edges with the elastic stitch 03. Now cut back the damaged material up to the seam on the reverse side.

TIP: In order to turn at the corners more easily, use the "needle down" function.

Two spring illustrations, one vertical and one horizontal, against a plain background (no text or symbols)

Darning tears

When mending tears, frayed edges or small holes, it is advisable to lay a small piece of fabric under the reverse side of the material. This piece of fabric strengthens the material and guarantees a perfect darn.

Place a piece of fabric under the reverse side of the material to be darned. The piece of fabric used should be a little larger than the damaged area. Overstitch the damaged area in accordance with the size of the tear using prog. 03. Cut back the piece of fabric as far as possible.

Technical line drawing showing two views of a sewing machine handle mechanism (no text or symbols)

Sewing in zippers

Prog. 00

There are different ways to sew in zippers. For skirts we recommend the zipper concealed on both sides, for ladies' or mens' trousers, the zipper concealed on one side. Several types of zippers are available at retail outlets. We recommend metal zippers for strong fabrics such as jeans. For all other materials we recommend a plastic zipper.

For all types of zippers it is important to sew close to the teeth of the zipper. This is why the zipper foot can be engaged on the left or the right side of the sewing-foot holder.

Additionally, you can set the needle so that it enters close to the edge of the zipper teeth by using one of the Creative's 19 needle positions. If the foot is engaged right, the needle must only be moved to the right. If the foot is engaged left, the needle must only be moved to the left.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and cutting tool (no text or symbols)

Inserting zippers concealed on both sides

• Attach the zipper foot on the right side.
• Baste the zipper on and place it under the sewing foot so that the teeth run at the side of the foot. Bring the needle into the desired, right hand position.
• Sew in half of the zipper, leave the needle in the material, raise the sewing foot and zip the zipper closed.
• Now you can sew the rest of the seam to the end of the zipper and stitch the crosswise seam.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and chain assembly (no text or symbols)

• Sew in the second half of the zipper parallel and at the same distance.
• Stop shortly before the seam end and leave the needle in the material. Raise the sewing foot and open the zipper.
• Now the seam can be finished.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and chain (no text or symbols)

Trouser zippers

• Iron a fold into the seam allowance on the zipper seam ensuring that the overlap protrudes about 4 mm.
• Baste the zipper under the overlapping edge so that the teeth are still visible.
• Engage the zipper foot on the right and set the needle at the required position.
• Stitch along the edge of the zipper.

Technical line drawing of a sewing machine needle and fabric (no text or symbols)

• Shortly before the end of the seam, open the zipper and finish sewing the seam.
• Close the zipper and baste the overlap evenly onto the other zipper half.
  • The stitch along the basted seam.

TIP: Using the edge guide you will achieve an accurate second seam.

Black-and-white photo of a sewing machine needle and fabric, no visible text or symbols

Roll hemming

With hemmer No. 7 and Prog. 00 you can hem blouses, silk scarves and vallances quickly and easily without having to pre-iron the edges. Hemming secures the edges against fraying, in a tidy and durable way.

• Fold the beginning of the fabric edge twice (each time approx. 2 mm).
• Place the folded fabric-edge under the hemmer and sew a few stitches.
• Leave the needle in the fabric, lift the sewing foot, and pull the fabric into the scroll of the hemmer.
• Lower the foot and pull the fabric uniformly into the scroll of the hemmer. Make sure that the fabric does not come under the right half of the foot.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

TIP: A roll hem with a zigzag stitch is especially suitable for silk, rayon and chiffon.

Black-and-white illustration of a person wearing a patterned garment (no visible text or symbols)

Inserting lace

Prog. 00

You can produce beautiful effects by inserting lace, in for example, children's clothing.

• First, baste the lace onto the face side of the fabric.

• Stitch both sides of the lace using a narrow zigzag.

• Cut open the fabric under the lace at the middle and iron it over to the side.

• Stitch over both edges of the lace with small and dense zigzag stitches.
• Cut back the excess material.

Decorative border with white lace border and black background (no text or symbols)

Lace trims

You can beautify or simply change the look of table cloths, napkins or garments with lace trims.

And this is how it's done:

• Serge the raw edges.
• Stitch the lace onto the face side of the fabric up to the first corner.

Decorative corner frame with white lace patterns on black background (no text or symbols)

• Fold over the corners and stitch them diagonally.
• Repeat this procedure for the other sides.

Scanned text of a document with dense, low-resolution characters and a horizontal line at the bottom.

Close-up of a metallic chain with repeating loops against a dark background (no text or symbols)

Shell edging

Prog. 04 with the "pattern mirror" key

Shell edging is especially attractive on thin, soft materials such as silk and rayon. It is often used as a border on lingerie. The higher the needle-thread tension, the deeper the shell edge.

- Serge the edge of the fabric and iron the inlay to the reverse side.

Take care that only half of the fabric lies under the sewing foot. This intensifies the shell-edge effect.

TIP: By sewing a colored woollen yarn or pearl cotton into the shell edging, you strengthen the shell edge while at the same time producing a colourful contrast.

PFAFF

creative

7510

PFAFF creative 7510 Holding & Company

Instruction manual

Black-and-white still life photo of a traditional ceramic tea set with floral patterns, accompanied by a teapot and cloth (no visible text or symbols)

Decorative stitches and traditional embroidery techniques

Pages 99-119

Black-and-white portrait of a smiling woman in traditional attire, no visible text or symbols

Contents

General embroidery tips Page 102

Borders Page 103

Twin needle sewing Page 104

Embroidering large motifs Page 105

Leather embroidery Page 105

Alphabets Page 106

Monograms Page 107

Cross stitch Pages 108-109

Appliqué Page 110

Linen embroidery Page 111

Richelieu Page 112

Hemstitching Pages 113-115

Eyelet embroidery Pages 116-117

Quilting Pages 118-119

Kosmetik

General tips on embroidering

Embroidering does require some practice, but with the right tips and hints, it can be easy to achieve beautiful embroidery results.

Thread tension

In general, a looser thread tension is used for embroidery work than for utility sewing (±3).

In addition, the bobbin thread tension has to be increased by turning the larger of the milled screws on the bobbin case slightly to the right. This makes the embroidery more uniform and bolder (see page 23).

Sewing feet

The most suitable sewing foot for embroidery work is No. 2A.

Remember! Never engage the Dual Feed when doing embroidery work as this could cause a distortion in the embroidery pattern.

Balance

Each pattern in the machine is pre-programmed with its optimum length and width settings. If you are embroidering on difficult materials such as jersey, silk or heavy woollens however, you should adjust your pattern with the balance (see page 45).

Stabilizing the fabric

Whether working on heavy or thin materials, the result will be better if the fabric has been stabilized. Many materials tend to pucker, particularly when using dense embroidery stitches. Therefore, we recommend:

Apply iron-on or tear-away stabilizer under the fabric to be embroidered. This will stabilize it and can be removed quickly and easily after the embroidery work has been completed.

Water soluble stabilizers are transparent gelatine stabilizers which you place under the fabric and overstitch. After the embroidery work has been completed, this stabilizer can be effortlessly removed by rinsing under running water. Alternatively, a gel stabilizer can be used to stabilize the fabric. The gel has a similar effect to spray-on starch. It has to dry after being applied but it becomes very stiff and can be embroidered on most materials without a paper underlay. After the completion of the embroidery work, the gel can be washed out easily.

Decorative black-and-white ornamental border with floral and scroll motifs (no text or symbols)

Borders

Here are some examples of how you can create borders of any width by combining various embroidery programs. Machine embroidery-threads are particularly suitable here. They are available in many colors and thicknesses. You should however, always use threads of the same thickness when embroidering.

Black-and-white illustration of a DNA double helix pattern (no text or symbols)

You can also achieve additional effects through the use of variegated embroidery thread. This is available in many different colors at your Pfaff dealer.

Abstract black-and-white pattern with repeating diamond shapes and checkered squares (no text or symbols)

Abstract pattern of repeating circular motifs and vertical stripes (no text or symbols)

Abstract pattern of repeating diamond shapes with varying dot textures (no text or symbols)

Sewing with the twin-needle

You can achieve beautiful effects when embroidering with the twin needle. Embroideries turn out best with a stitch width of 1.6–3 mm. Embroideries are particularly effective if two embroidery threads of similar shades are chosen.

If you wish to sew embroidery programs with the twin needle, press the "twin needle" key (2). The stitch width is then automatically reduced to avoid the needle hitting the sewing foot.

a 33

32

Threading the twin needle

Replace the sewing needle with a twin needle.

• Swing the second spool holder up and place one spool on each of the spool holders.

• The tension disk a is in the left threading slot (33). Take care when threading that one thread passes to the left and one to the right of this disk.

• Thread the threads as usual, taking care not to get them tangled.

• Pull the threads into the thread guide (32), one to the left and one to the right, and thread the needles.

Black-and-white photo of two vintage slippers with floral patterns, placed on a plain surface (no text or symbols visible)

Embroidering large motifs

With a little imagination, you can combine the embroidery programs of the Creative 7510 to create any number of new embroidery patterns. Geometrical forms are particularly suitable for the foundation. These can be transferred to the material by means of templates. An oval served as the basis for the baby shoes pictured.

Black-and-white photo of a mechanical component lying on a white fabric surface (no text or symbols visible)

Leather embroidery

You can embroider leather without any problems whatsoever with the Creative 7510.

Do not set the stitch length too dense because leather perforates very easily.

Embroidering on leather is even easier with the teflon foot (special accessories). Due to its teflon layer, the foot glides easily over the leather. Depending on the thickness of the leather and the thread, we recommend a special leather-needle or a needle with a large eye (130 N).

ABCDEEGHIJKL MNOPQRSTU VWXYZ 0123456789 _21 AQUAEODE

2009157 RUSDAFO 5085507Y03X 012.945 6789 07/1 1988/08 - -P

Alphabets

You can "write" initials, names or whole texts like a professional with the Creative. In this way you can quickly and easily transform clothing and lend towels, handkerchiefs, scarves, almost anything, an individual touch. The Creative 7510 offers you 2 different alphabets:

Script a in upper case "A"

Block letters in upper case "A"

Both of the Alphabets contain numbers and punctuation marks (e.g. a_ "0").

By pressing the pattern selection key "A-Z" (21), you select the script alphabet. The letter "A" is displayed and can be sewn immediately.

With the numbered program keys 1 and 2 you select your desired alphabet with its numbers and punctuation marks.

With the numbered program keys 3 and 4 you can select the desired letter or number.

The size of the characters can be changed with keys 5 and 6.

These letterings can be sewn in a pattern width of up to 9 mm and can be combined in the M-Memory as letter sequences (see pages 48-53).

Lf

EF

Monograms

Whether working with terry-cloth or woven fabric, with the help of the darning foot and program 02 you can embroider initials of your own design.

Sewing this way without a set pattern does, however, require a little practice.

Here is how it is done:

• Draw the initials onto the fabric with an invisible-ink marker.
• Drop the feed dog and attach the darning foot (see pages 31 and 91).
• Place stabilizer under the fabric.
• Place the fabric in an embroidery hoop and embroider in accordance with program 02. Don't forget the darning position.
• Tie off the threads and remove the stabilizer.

TIP: By sewing quickly and moving the material slowly, you stitch densely.

When embroidering on terry cloth, the monogram must first be sewn with a narrow zigzag stitch and then overstitched with a wider zigzag stitch. In this way the terry cloth loops are completely sewn over.

Embroidering block letters is somewhat easier. Here the feed dog is not dropped, you can simply sew along the lines with program 02.

• Stabilize the fabric.
• Draw the monogram onto the fabric.
• Sew along the lines you have sketched with program 02.

Black-and-white photo of a pair of knitted slip-on shoes with embossed star patterns, resting on a textured surface (no text or symbols visible)

Cross stitches

Cross stitch embroideries have always been important within traditional, ethnic embroidery techniques.

What used to be stitched by hand with a great deal of effort can now be sewn with the Creative 7510 surprisingly quickly and easily.

Whether you select the pre-programmed cross stitch borders or create your own combinations with the cross stitch programs, these patterns look as if they have been sewn by hand and lend a special touch to table linen, towels or garments.

Tips for cross stitch embroidering:

• Always sew your work using the "slow sewing" function (3).
• Use stitch foot No. 2A. Its red guide lines are exactly adapted to the size of the cross stitches.
• Use only machine embroidery threads for cross stitching, e.g. MEZ embroidery.
• Place a stabilizer under the fabric.
  • We recommend using an embroidery hoop when working with very soft materials.
• You can also use Aida material as used for cross stitches done by hand. You can change the length and width of the cross stitches of your Creative 7510 in accordance with the size of the Aida count.

Sewing pre-programmed cross stitch borders

Embroidery programs Nos. 50-51 consist of small cross stitches and are especially suitable for border embroideries. They have been programmed into the machine with optimum stitch length and width, however you can change these settings if required.

Black-and-white photo of a rabbit-shaped object on a textured surface, with no visible text or symbols.

Embroidering cross stitch motifs with programs 52-54

You can combine the individual cross stitch programs using your imagination to achieve large area cross stitch motifs. These combinations are entered into the M-memory and are then sewn successively next to each other. To do this follow these steps:

• Draw the desired cross stitch motif on graph paper.
• Divide this motif into blocks which can be entered into the M-memory as pattern combinations.
• Now mark the starting point of the first cross stitch in each memory. The start and end points of the cross stitches are particularly important as they determine the stitch direction. A cross stitch that finishes on the right can only be combined with a cross stitch that starts on the right. The starting points are marked with a small circle and the end points are marked with a dot.

TIP: With the "◀" key, you can transfer starting points from left to right and from right to left.

Cross stitch motif "rabbit"

For this motif, the following combinations have been stored:

M1-4x52/53

M2- 2x53/(key 18)/4x52/53/3x52/2x53/3x52/53(key 18)

M3- 9x53

M4- 3x52

M5- 2x53/4x52/53(key 18)/

3x52/2x53(key 18)/3x52/53

M6- 4x52/53(key 18)

M7- 53(key 18)/5x52/53(key 18)

M8- 3x53(key 18)

M9- 3x53

M9- 3x91

Where key 18 is written in brackets, the programming number must be entered as an axial mirror-image.

• Mark each memory with a number and arrows for the respective sewing direction.
• Press the "m" key for pattern sequence.
• Now enter the selected cross stitches into the M-Memory.
• To sew the pattern, recall the programmed memories successively by pressing the "single pattern" key "◀".
  • After you have finished sewing the memory, pull the threads to the reverse side of the fabric and knot them together.
• Delete the sewed memory and enter the new combination. When you position the sewing foot, watch the crosswise lines on stitch foot 2A, they should be aligned with the starting points of the adjoining cross stitches.

M5 M2 M1 M7 M4 M6 M3 M9 M8

Black-and-white photo of a cheerful young girl sitting with a toy car, no visible text or symbols

Appliqué

Appliqués are quickly made and always produce a beautiful effect. The appliqué foot (special accessories) allows you to achieve perfect, densely stitched seams because it has a special cutout on the underside for the purl seam. It also allows you to turn corners and curves with ease.

Prepare the appliqué as follows: Design a motif that you would like to appliqué onto the background. Iron paper-backed fusing web onto the back of the pieces of the motif. Now pull the paper off the pieces to be appliquéd and iron these onto the fabric according to the motif.

Now you can start: Overstitch all of the contours with the zigzag stitch, the finer the thread, the more densely the stitch length should be set. When you reach a curve, use the "needle down" function to help you guide the work more easily and achieve a more uniform seam. Make sure that the needle stitches completely over the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later.

TIP: A particularly attractive stitch for appliqué work is stitch No. 16. The zigzag seam is broader and flatter with this stitch. Nevertheless, take care to use a very fine thread for this stitch and set the stitch length at approx. 0.4–0.5.

Black-and-white artistic composition featuring a floral design with leaf motifs, a small vase, and a mirror (no text or symbols)

Linen embroidery

Linen embroidering is a very well known and well-loved technique. For this special white-on-white embroidery, filled in embroidery designs are most suitable to make the embroidery more prominent. Always use special embroidery threads and tear-away stabilizer as an underlay. Transfer the desired pattern, i.e. an iron-on pattern or a pattern drawn with a disappearing ink pen, onto the face side of the fabric. Our example consists of the following programs:

- For the petals select pattern No. 67. Press the key "single pattern" (16).

Pattern length: 35 mm

Stitch width: 6 mm

- Using pattern No. 41, stitch the points at the top end of the petals.

Pattern length: 6 mm

Stitch width: 6 mm

- Now stitch the contours using zigzag stitch No. 02.

Stitch width: 2 mm

Stitch length: 0.35 mm

- For the flowers right and left of the motif use pattern No. 74.

Stitch width: 7 mm

Pattern length: 14 mm

- Embroider the edge of the napkin using zigzag stitch No. 02.

Stitch width: 4 mm

Stitch length: 0.35 mm

Black-and-white close-up of a textured, flared object with ruffled edges against a black background (no visible text or symbols)

Richelieu

This very artistic form of bar and eyelet embroidery is easy to create with your sewing machine.

• Transfer your pattern onto the face side of the fabric using a disappearing ink pen.

• Then place two layers of water soluble stabilizer under the area to be embroidered and tighten the fabric and backing in an embroidery hoop.
  • To make the embroidery more stable, sew around all contours twice in straight stitch No. 00 (stitch length at approx. 1 mm).

• Then carefully cut out the fabric from the areas that will form the cutouts at about 2 mm from their contours. Do not cut away the stabilizer!

• Embroider the contours with a dense zigzag stitch No. 02.
• The backing material provides this part of the work with much more shape and stability.
• Finally, all you have to do is dissolve the stabilizer in cold water and your piece of unique embroidery is ready.

Black-and-white portrait of a woman wearing a wide-brimmed hat, holding flowers (no text or symbols visible)

Hemstitching

Everyone knows this technique – but only done by hand. With the Creative 7510, you can produce hemstitching much quicker and easier. 5 special hemstitching programs are at your disposal and by changing the stitch lengths and widths, you can achieve new effects every time. For hemstitching you need a wing needle. Only for very fine fabrics is a normal sewing needle, size 80, used. Coarse-weave fabric from which you can pull individual threads is the most suitable for hemstitching. Embroidery and darning thread, particularly cotton, is very suitable. Use the hemstitching programs of your Creative 7510 to produce different techniques.

Scanned text of a document with dense, fragmented Chinese characters and small black dots, likely from a historical or literary manuscript.

Hemstitching patterns

• Program No. 59.

For these programs use wing needle 130/705 H Wing, size 100, without pulling threads.

Careful: When using the wing needle, the stitch width must not be any larger than 8 mm.

Close-up of a textured fabric with a horizontal band of repeating circular patterns (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a textured fabric with a dotted line at the bottom (no visible text or symbols)

"Ladder" hemstitching

• Programs No. 56 and 57.
- Pull the threads at the desired width out of the fabric, the same as when hemstitching by hand.
- Embroider along both fabric edges with the respective programs. When doing this, the needle must enter at the side of the edges into the pulled threads thus bunching the threads.

Hemstitching as edging

This edging is used on very fine, thin fabrics. It is particularly suitable for valances or ruffles. For these the threads must be pulled.

• Programs No. 56 and 57.
- Sew at one sewing foot width along the fabric edge.
- Cut the extra fabric at the hemstitching edge with a small pair of scissors.

Black-and-white textile with Chinese characters at the bottom, likely a garment or pattern piece.

Making a hem with a hemstitch seam

This seam provides a perfect edge finish to hem-stitching work on table cloths, napkins or towels.

• Programs No. 56 and 57.
- Iron the hem over twice in the desired width.
- Pull one or more of the threads just above the hem.
- Using one of the above mentioned programs, sew along the pulled threads. When doing this, the needle must enter the right side of the hem and bunch the pulled threads to the left.

Scanned text of a historical Chinese document with dense traditional characters and a decorative border.

Traditional hemstitching

• Programs No. 55 and 58.
- Using "single pattern", sew the program onto a piece of waste fabric.
- Count the threads on the inside of the pattern to determine the pattern width.
- Pull 1–3 threads from the fabric to the right and left of the pattern width.
- Overstitch the remaining threads with the selected program. When you do this, the needle must enter the pulled threads on both sides close to the edges.

Black-and-white photo of a decorative ceramic teapot and teacup on a plate, with a scalloped fabric underneath (no text or symbols visible)

Eyelet embroidery

With the help of the eyelet plate (special accessories) you can produce beautiful eyelet embroideries with your Creative which traditionally required a great deal of time and trouble.

It is very effective in blouses and bed and table linen. Nearly every pattern in the Creative 7510 is suitable, whether utility stitches such as the zigzag stitch, blind stitch, elastic stitch or fancy stitches.

Program 27 in combination with the "pattern mirror" key (18) is particularly suitable for classical eyelet embroidery. Here the needle position is left and the machine stitches uniformly around the hole at the stitch width that you have selected.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical assembly with labeled component A (no text or symbols beyond label)

And here is how it is done:

• Remove the sewing foot.
• Place the eyelet plate onto the needle plate making sure that pin A fits into the middle cutout of the needle plate. Then push the eyelet plate down at the front.

• Place the marked fabric taut in an embroidery hoop.

• Cut one or two fabric threads and push the fabric over the pin in the eyelet plate. The fabric must fit tightly around the pin.

• Place the presser foot lifter in darning position.
• Pull up the bobbin thread and hold it to the first few stitches.
• Stitch around the cut with your chosen program. While doing so, turn the hoop slowly and. The stitches must be very close to each other.
• Then secure with a few straight stitches.

Six circular diagrams with various patterns and dot textures, arranged in a 2x2 grid (no text or symbols)

TIP: Select another program such as 37 or 44. In this way the cut in the fabric will not be stitched around or only partly stitched around. To complete this, select program 27 and stitch around the cut uniformly. Thus you create beautiful petal forms.

Black-and-white photo of a person hanging over a coat, no visible text or symbols

Quilting

Quilting is a traditional sewing technique. This method which was developed by the wives of American settlers to make use of leftover materials, has become an artistic hobby with many enthusiasts worldwide.

A quilt always consists of three layers of material. Lots of geometrically shaped pieces of material are joined together in continually changing patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is then tacked to the middle layer made of batting and connected to the back layer of the quilt that usually consists of one uniform piece of material. The entire quilt is often also bordered with the back layer.

Of course, the work of piecing the individual bits of material together must be very precise. The Dual Feed (IDT-System) is of great importance when doing this, so that the parts do not move and so that they join up to each other exactly. Even when sewing and embroidering over the three layers of a quilt, you achieve optimal sewing results with the Dual Feed. The quilt or patchwork foot (special accessories) is particularly suitable for quilting. Here the distance between the needle and the edge of the foot is 1/4 of an inch / 0.635 cm.

Black-and-white abstract composition featuring fragmented geometric shapes and textures (no text or symbols)

and this is how it is done:

Cut out the pieces of your quilt with templates you have made or bought. A seam allowance of 0.635 cm (0.4 of an inch) should already be included in the templates.

Arrange the pieces as in the pattern and form small squares that you can match together. These squares are then sewn together to form the surface of the quilt.

• The seam allowances of quilts are not serged.
- Baste your finished quilt top onto the layer of batting with the back layer of the quilt underneath.
- In traditional quilts, these three layers of material are sewn together by hand with small stitches but this is quicker and more practical with the sewing machine.

Black-and-white photo of a quilted pillow with checkered pattern and geometric cutouts (no text or symbols)

When your quilt is finished, you can make it into a cushion, a wall hanging or a bedspread.

Decorative square frame with geometric border and diagonal stripes (no text or symbols)

Embroidery stitches are particularly suitable for tone on tone quilting.

Black-and-white photo of a young girl wearing a hat and holding a butterfly, surrounded by decorative flowers and shoes (no text or symbols visible)

1. 12 0. 12 1. 12 2. 12 3. 12 4. 12 5. 12 6. 12 7. 12 8. 12 9. 12 10. 12 11. 12 12. 12 13. 12 14. 12 15. 12 16. 12 17. 12 18. 12 19. 12 20. 12

Accessories and Needles Maintenance and Faults

pages 121-136

122

Black-and-white photo of various electronics and tools laid out on a surface, including a timer, screwdriver, and climp (no visible text or symbols)

Accessories and Needles Maintenance, Sewing Problems and Solutions

Accessories Pages 124-126

Special accessories table Page 127

Felling foot/Appliqué foot Page 128

Fringe foot/Cording foot Page 129

Cording foot/Shirring foot Page 130

Knit edge foot/

Multi stitch gathering foot/

Bias tape binder Page 131

Needle chart Pages 132-133

Changing the needle plate Page 134

Cleaning and lubricating Page 134

Changing the sewing lamp Page 135

Sewing problems and solutions Page 136

Top-down view of two toy cars on a grassy field (no visible text or symbols)

Sewing feet (standard accessories)

Standard sewing-foot No. 0A

Part No.: 98-694 828-00

Top-down view of a car with two wheels and a handle, lying on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Fancy stitch foot for top feed No 1A

Part No.: 98-694 836-00

Top-down view of a small electronic component or device on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Fancy stitch foot for top feed No. 2A

Part No.: 98-694-838-00

Black-and-white photo of a small white mechanical device lying on grass (no visible text or symbols)

Blind stitch and overlock foot No. 3

Part No.: 98-694-890-00

Black-and-white photo of a small mechanical component lying on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Zipper and edge sewing foot No. 4 Part No.: 98-694-884-00

Mechanical component with rectangular body and internal slots, no visible text or symbols

Buttonhole foot No. 5A Part No.: 98-694-830-00

Close-up of a metallic mechanical component with a slot and textured base, resting on a textured surface (no visible text or symbols)

Buttonhole guide No. 10 Part No.: 93-037 595-91

Black-and-white photo of a small mechanical component lying on grass (no visible text or symbols)

Darning foot No. 6 Part No.: 93-035 960-91

Close-up of a metallic mechanical clamp or bracket component lying on a textured gray surface (no text or symbols visible)

Roll hemmer foot No. 7

Part No.: 96-694 818-00

Simple line drawing of a curved object on a textured surface (no text or symbols)

Edge guide No. 3

Part No.: 98-802-422-00

Three white cylindrical objects on a textured surface, one with a label showing '4000' and the other with '2000', no visible text or symbols on the objects themselves.

Seam ripper

Part No.: 99-053 016-91

Soft brush

Part No.: 93-847 979-91

Oil tube

Part No.: 93-035 910-91

ewing feet (special accessories)

he special accessories allow you to do special sewing work.

he listed sewing feet are available at your PFAFF dealer:

Accessory	Part No.	Sewing work
Appliqué foot	93-042 941-91	For appliqué work
Open appliqué foot for 9 mm width	93-036 933-91	For appliqué work
Cording foot, 5 grooves (twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0) 130/705 H-ZWI	93-042 950-91	For cording work (needle size 80)
Cording foot, 7 grooves (twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0) 130/705 H-ZWI	93-042 953-91
Cording tongue (2)	93-035 952-45
Fringe foot	93-042 943-91	For sewing loop embroidery
Third spool holder to be placed on pins	93-033 063-44	For sewing with the triple needle
Straight stitch foot with round hole (for Dual Feed)	98-694 821-00	Caution! Only use the straight stitch in center needle position
Felling foot, 4.5 mm	93-042 946-91	For lap felled seams
Felling foot, 6.5 mm	93-042 948-91	For lap felled seams
Single needle cording foot, 3 grooves	93-036 915-91	For cording
Shirring foot	93-036 998-91	For shirring, gathering etc.
Eyelet plate	93-036 977-45	For eyelet embroidery
Multi stitch gathering foot	98-999 650-00	For placing pleats at regular intervals.
Quilt and patchwork foot	93-036 925-91	For quilting
Quilt and patchwork foot (for Dual Feed)	93-036 927-91	For quilting
Roll hemmer 2 mm	98-694 873-00	For hemming
Hemmer 4 mm (for Dual Feed)	98-694 823-00	For hemming
Bias tape binder (remove foot holder)	98-053 484-91	For binding edges with bias tape
Needle plate with round hole	98-694 422-00	For topstitching seams and sewing very light and soft materials (silk, jersey etc.)
Knit-edge foot	93-042 957-91	For sewing knitted fabrics
Hemmer 4 mm (for Dual Feed) stitch width up to 6 mm	93-036917-91	For sewing leather and synthetics
Teflon embroidery stitch foot (stitch width up to 9 mm)	93-036 922-91	For embroidering leather and vinyl

The following pages contain application examples of some special accessories.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Felling foot

Lap-felled seams are particularly durable and therefore well known as the typical denim seam. They are also suitable for sportswear, children's wear, blouses and shirts. You can make these seams particularly decorative by using a sewing thread of a contrasting color. The felling foot is available in two different widths (for light-weight and heavy-weight fabrics).

• Attach the felling foot.
• Place the fabric wrong sides together.
  • Overlap the raw edge of the lower layer by about 1-1.5 cm (3/8 to 5/8).
• Now place this overlapping edge over the tongue of the felling foot. The fabric must be placed fully under the sewing foot.
• Sew along the folded edge with the straight stitch.
• Afterwards, pull the fabric layers apart and feed the protruding hem into the felling foot. The hem is turned over by the foot and topstitched along the edge. Pull the two fabric layers apart during sewing.

Program: 00

Stitch length: 3

Tension: 3-5

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Appliqué foot

Appliqués are quickly done and always produce a beautiful effect. By using different materials and patterns you can create countless new designs. You can make a perfect, densely stitched seam with the appliqué foot which has a special cutout on the underside for the zigzag seam.

• Attach the appliqué foot into the sewing machine.
• Transfer your drafted pattern to the paper side of the fusible web. Remember that any numbers or letters have to be drawn as a mirror image.
• Now iron the backing fabric onto the appliqué material. Cut the motif out and pull the paper off.
• Iron the appliqué parts onto the base material.
• Then topstitch all contours with narrow and dense zigzag stitches. When you reach a curve, use the "needle down" function to help you guide the work more easily. Also make sure that the needle stitches over the outer edge so that no fraying occurs later.

Program: 02 or 16

Stitch length: 0.35

Stitch width: 1.5-2.0

Tension: 2-3

Close-up of a sewing machine needle with visible mechanical components and base mount (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Fringe foot

With this special foot for loop embroidery you can produce fantastic effects in no time.

• Mark out your desired pattern with chalk or a disappearing ink pen.
• Use a stabilizer for the material.
• Attach the fringe foot.
• Embroider the motif row by row. For circles you have to work from the outside inwards.
• When using thicker threads you may have to select a longer stitch length; it is best to sew a test seam first.
• When you have finished, pull the work out of the machine carefully because if you pull too fast, you will pull the loops tight.
• Knot the threads on the reverse side.

Program: 02

Stitch length: 0.35-1

Stitch width: 1.5-2.5

Tension: 2-3

Cording foot

The classical sewing technique of pin tucking can be used perfectly well on many fabrics such as cottons and light woollens.

• Attach the cording foot (5 grooves for thicker materials, 7 grooves for finer materials).
• Change the needle to a twin needle (1.6 or 2 mm needle clearance) e.g. 130/705 H-ZWI needle thickness 80.
• Thread up the two needles (see page 87).
• Now set the needle thread tension quite tight (at about 5) to make the seam more prominent.
• Sew one row of tucking. When you sew the second row you can let the first row run parallel in one of the foot's grooves. This ensures that the spaces between the rows always remain the same.

TIP: If you wish to emphasize the cording effect, you can fit a "cording blade" on the front edge of the needle plate.

Cording foot with 5 grooves - large cording blade
Cording foot with 7 grooves - small cording blade
Sewing with a gimp thread makes a similar effect. However, with a gimp thread you work without a cording blade.

• First remove the needle plate.
• Thread the gimp thread upwards through the hole in the needle plate.
• Return the needle plate to its position. The notch between the needle plate and the sewing machine provides space for the gimp thread. This thread must be fed under the detachable work support, so that it does not become tangled during sewing.
• While sewing the cording, the material must be pulled lightly.

Program: 00

Stitch length: 2.5

Tension: 5

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Single needle cording foot

Cording is a technique in which pearl cotton or a fine cord is overstitched to produce a purl seam. With this technique you can obtain a similar effect to braiding. Appliqués can also be made more impressive by this seam.

• Attach the single needle cording foot.
• Place the gimp thread into the foot so that it leads through one of the grooves at the front and lies under the sewing foot at the back.
• Now overstitch the gimp thread with narrow, dense zigzag stitches.

TIP: You can obtain a remarkable effect by overstitching a medium pearl thread with a thread of a different color.

Program: 27

Stitch length: 0.35-1

Stitch width: 1.5-2.0

Tension: 3

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Shirring foot

Beautiful gathering effects on, for example, children's wear or curtains, can be achieved quickly and easily with the shirring foot.

• Attach the shirring foot by hooking the rear bar of the foot into the rear groove of the foot holder. Push the foot upwards until it snaps into the front bar.
• Place the fabric to be gathered under the sewing foot and the fabric to remain flat, downwards through the foot cutout. The fabric layers lie face side to face side.
• During sewing, you must pull the top fabric a little. The harder you pull, the greater the gathering effect you create.
• Be sure to guide the fabric edges evenly through the foot.
• Disengage the shirring foot by pushing it down at the front and remove it in the direction of the groove of the sewing foot holder at the back.

TIP: By increasing the needle thread tension and the stitch length, you can increase the gathering effect.

Program: 00

Stitch length: 3

Tension: 3-5

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a textured fabric surface (no visible text or symbols)

Knit edge foot

The knit-edge foot makes it easy to sew thick seams on knitted fabrics or imitation fur. To obtain a perfect seam on shapecut parts, we recommend adding a yarn under slight tension and overstitching it at the same time.

Program: 13

Stitch width: 6.0

Tension: 3-5

Close-up of a sewing machine with visible wiring and mechanical components (no text or symbols)

Multi-stitch gathering foot

With the multi-stitch gathering foot you can make narrow or wide spaced pleats automatically while sewing. This is very useful for ruffles and home textiles etc. When you buy the multi-stitch gathering foot from your PFAFF dealer, you receive a full description with it.

Program: 00

Stitch length: 3

Tension: 3-5

Close-up of a mechanical device with wires and components, no visible text or symbols

Bias tape binder

Binding with bias tape is a very easy method of giving fabric edges a smooth and neat appearance. For this you need unfolded bias tape about 24 mm (one inch) wide.

• Remove the sewing foot holder and the sewing foot and screw on the binder.
• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at a diagonal.
• Push the tape into the scroll of the binder and pull out to the back.
• Adjust the binder so that the needle enters at about 1–1.5 mm (1/16") from the folded-in edge of the bias tape. This can also be achieved by changing the needle position.
• Stitch a few centimetres (about an inch) along the bias tape.
• Insert the edge to be bound into the slot of the binder. The raw edge must be placed between the bias tape edges. The bias tape encloses the raw edge automatically.

TIP: You can obtain an additional effect by using zigzag stitches or fancy stitches.

Program 00

Stitch length: 2.5

Tension: 3-5

Needle chart

Using the correct needle guarantees a better processing of the material.

Fabric weight: light Needle size: 60, 70, 75		Fabric weight: medium Needle size: 80, 90		Fabric weight: heavy needle size: 100, 110, 120
Needle points
System & No.	Profile	Point & eye	Suitable for
130/705 H Needle thickness: 70, 80		Light ball point	Universal needle for fine synthetics, fine linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy, woollens, velvet, fancy seams and embroidery.
130/705 H-SUK Needle thickness: 70/110		Medium ball point	Coarse knitted fabrics, Spandex, double jersey fabrics and Quiana.
130/705 H-PS Needle thickness: 75, 90		Medium ball point	Stretch-fabric needle developed especially for Pfaff. Particularly suitable for delicate stretch and knitted fabrics.
130/705 H-SKF Needle thickness: 70, 110		Heavy ball point	Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra and Spandex
130/705 H-J Needle thickness: 90-110		Acute ball point	Twill, workwear, heavy linen, denim and light canvas
130/705 H-LL Needle thickness: 70-120		Narrow wedge point (cuts right)	Leather, suede, kid leather, goatskin
130/705 H-PCL Needle thickness: 80-110		Narrow wedge point with left twist groove	Imitation leathers, plastics and oil cloth
130 H-N Needle thickness: 70-110		Light ball point, long eye	Seams topstitched with buttonhole silk or No. 30/3 synthetic thread
130/705 H-WING Needle thickness: 100		Hemstitching point	Attractive hemstitching on heavily starched materials, organdy and batiste.
130/705 H-E Needle thickness: 75, 90		Medium ball point	Especially for embroidery work
130/705 H-Q Needle thickness: 75, 90		Light ball point	Specially developed quilting needle
130/705 H-M Needle thickness: 60-80		Acute round point	For working with micro fibres

Needle chart

[8105]	System and No.	Stitch length	Stitch width	Needle spacing	Suitable for
	130/705 H-ZWIThickness: 80	2.5 mm2.5 mm	--	1.6 mm2.0 mm	Normal cordingNormal cording
	130/705 H-ZWIThickness: 80Thickness: 90Thickness: 100	2.5 mm2.5 mm3.0 mm	--	2.5 mm3.0 mm4.0 mm	Wide cordingExtra wide cordingExtra wide cording
Decorative designs sewn with twin needlesBefore you start sewing, turn the handwheel and check to make sure the needles stitch into the fabric properly. In this way, needle breakage can be largely avoided.
[3014]	Decorative and zigzag patterns
	130/705 H-ZWIThickness: 80Thickness: 80Thickness: 80	0.5-1.5 mm0.5-1.5 mm0.5-1.5 mm	widenarrownarrow	1.6 mm2.0 mm2.5 mm	OrnamentationsOrnamentationsOrnamentations
[5006]	Hemstitching/Special twin needle
	130/705H-ZWI-HOThickness: 80Thickness: 100	2.3-3.0 mm2.0-3.0 mm	very narrowvery narrow	--	Decorativehemstitchingeffect. Heavilystarched fabricsare particularlysuitable.

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine with visible wiring and components (no text or symbols)

Changing the needle plate Switch off the on/off switch

Removal

• Raise the sewing foot and remove the detachable work support.
• Pull the needle plate upwards at the back and remove it

Replacement

- Lay the back of the needle plate down flat and push it down at the front until you hear it snap into place.

Before you start sewing, check that the needle plate is lying flat.

Interior view of a mechanical device with internal components and no visible text or symbols

Cleaning and lubricating Switch off the on/off switch

• Remove the needle plate and lower the feed dog.
• Clean the feed dog and hook area with the brush.
• Apply one drop of oil to the hook as shown above. The machine is otherwise maintenance free and must not be oiled in other places.
• Clean and oil the sewing machine every 10 to 15 hours of operation.

Cleaning the display

To clean the display, use a dry, soft, lint-free cloth. Do not use chemical cleaners or solvents!

Top-down view of a person sitting at a table with a computer monitor and a wall-mounted device (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of hands operating a device with a switch and control panel (no visible text or symbols)

Changing the sewing lamp Switch off the on/off switch

• Disconnect the mains plug and the foot control from the machine.
• Remove the detachable work support

The sewing lamp (bulb) is located inside the head of the sewing machine.

Removal

To make it easier to change the bulb, we recommend placing the sewing machine on the handwheel as illustrated.

• Hold the machine securely.
• Push the bulb into its holder as far as it will go and turn it counter-clockwise (half a turn) to remove it.

Insertion

• Insert the bulb in the diagonal holder and turn it so that both stops of the bulb engage.
• Now push the bulb fully into the holder and turn it clockwise until it is held firmly.

Important

The maximum permissible bulb wattage is 15 Watts!

TIP: If you lift the carrying handle, you will see a small hole on its left hand side. By inserting edge guide No. 3 into this hole, you press down the lamp housing a little, making it easier to change the light bulb.

Sewing faults and their elimination

Cause:	Elimination:
1. The machine skips stitches
Needle is not properly attached.	Push needle fully upwards, flat side to the back.
A wrong needle has been attached.	Use needle system 130/705 H.
Needle is bent or blunt.	Attach a new needle.
Machine is not properly threaded.	Check the threading paths.
Needle is too small for thread.	Use a larger needle.
2. The needle thread breaks
See 1.	See 1.
Thread tension is too tight.	Adjust thread tension.
Thread is poor or has slubs in it or it has become dry after too long in storage.	Only use quality threads.
Thread is too thick.	Use a needle with a larger eye (System 130 N).
3. Needle breaks off
Needle not pushed in fully.	Attach new needle and push it fully in.
Needle is bent.	Attach new needle.
Needle is too thick or too thin.	See needle chart (Pages 132/133).
Needle is bent and hits the needle plate because you are pulling or pushing the fabric.	Let the machine feed the fabric. Only guide the fabric lightly.
The bobbin case is not properly inserted.	Push the bobbin case in fully when inserting it
4. Seam is sewn unevenly
The tension needs adjusting.	Check needle-thread and bobbin-thread tensions.
Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard.	Use only quality threads.
The bobbin thread is unevenly wound.	Do not wind free-hand. Run the thread through the primary tension.
Thread loops above or below stitches.	Thread up correctly. Check needle-thread and bobbin-thread tensions.
5. The machine does not feed or feeds irregularly
Sewing lint has collected between the feed dog teeth rows.	Remove needle plate, remove lint with brush.
Feed dog is lowered. Slide C (see page 31) is at right.	Push slide C (see page 31) to the left.
6. Machine binds
Loose threads in the hook race:	Remove loose thread and apply one drop of oil to the hook.

7. Machine does not sew the entered program

Switch off the machine and back on again after about 10 seconds. Enter desired program again.

Important notes:

Before changing the sewing feet or needles, you must switch off the on/off switch.

Do not start the threaded machine without fabric in it.

If you leave the machine unattended, even for a short time, do not forget to switch off the on/off switch.

This is especially important when children are nearby.

PFAFF

G. M. Pfaff

Aktiengesellschaft

Subject to technical modifications