73 - Sewing machine PFAFF - Free user manual and instructions

USER MANUAL 73 PFAFF

Black industrial sewing machine with needle and base mount (no visible text or symbols)

INSTRUCTION BOOK

PFAFF®

73

INSTRUCTIONS

FOREWORD

Your dream has come true.

You are now the proud owner of a Pfaff 73, the sewing machine which will enable you to master all ordinary sewing, ornamental stitching and darning jobs that may come up in a home.

This instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing more fun for you.

Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing.

Follow these simple instructions and familiarize yourself with the exclusive features of your machine. You will find sewing exciting on your easy-to-operate Pfaff 73.

If you have any sewing problems, please contact your Pfaff dealer. He will be glad to help you at any time.

G. M. PFAFF AG

1 Face cover
2 Take-up lever
3 Thread retainer
4 Spool pins
5 Stitch width dial (A)
6 Needle position lever
7 Bobbin winder
8 Balance wheel

1. Stop motion knob
   10 Motor disengaging mechanism
   11 Bobbin winder thread retainer
2. Reverse feed control
3. Stitch length control
4. Free arm
5. Free arm top cover
6. Free arm can

(enclosing transverse rotary hook)

17 Sewing foot
18 Sewing foot thumb screw
19 Light switch
20 Needle thread tension
21 Presser bar lifter
22 Needle set screw
23 Needle plate

Fundamentals of Machine Operation

• Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel, turn it toward you (counter-clockwise as shown by black arrow). Make sure the stop motion knob is tightened before you begin sewing.
• Never run a threaded machine unless you have fabric under the sewing foot.
• Place both threads back under the sewing foot before you put fabric into the machine.
• The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot automatically. All you have to do is guide the work.
  ● Always bring the take-up lever to its highest position before you begin and after you have completed a seam. Failure to observe this rule may cause the thread to slip out of the needle eye. Also, it is easier to remove the work with the take-up lever up.

DR 050 A

Close-up of a hand adjusting a curved mechanical component with a black arrow indicating rotation (no text or symbols visible)

Close-up of a mechanical pipe fitting with visible wire and a directional arrow (no text or symbols)

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DR 051

Close-up of a hand turning a circular mechanical component with a knob (no visible text or symbols)

Mechanical assembly diagram showing a sewing machine needle inserted into a component, with no visible text or symbols.

Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to adjust or install a mechanical component (no visible text or symbols)

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How to Operate Your Sewing Machine

Engaging the Sewing Mechanism

Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob clockwise (as indicated by black arrow).

Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism

Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob counter-clockwise (toward you). The sewing mechanism is disengaged for bobbin winding.

The Workplate

The workplate is used to enlarge the working area for ordinary sewing. Before you attach the workplate, raise the presser bar lifter and turn the balance wheel until the take-up lever is at its lowest position (see arrow at right).

Hold workplate level and push it between free arm and sewing foot.

Tilt it slightly so that its lugs enter the holes in the machine base (see arrows in right illustration).

◀ Swing down the support and press it firmly against the base plate (see ill. at bottom).

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DR 880

Electrical Information

Push plug 1 into receptacle 2 and plug 3 at other end of cord into the wall outlet.

Cord 4 leads to the foot control which serves to regulate the machine speed.

Motor Disengaging Mechanism

Power-driven machines feature a lever underneath the balance wheel which serves to swing the motor to its operative position. To do this, flick the lever down. After you have completed sewing, flick the lever to its top position in order to return the motor to the inoperative position.

With the motor swung out of engagement, all machines set up on treadle stands can be driven by foot power.

Foot Control

Place the foot control under the table or cabinet within easy reach of your foot. Rest the right foot on the control pedal and press.

The harder you press, the faster the machine will run.

DR 510

Hand holding a small electronic component with numbered parts labeled 1 to 4

DR 558

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Illustration of a foot pressing down on a shoe, showing the foot and ankle (no text or symbols)

R 7132

A B

DR 851

Straight Stitching

For straight-stitch sewing set:

Dial A = 0

Lever B = Center

This setting is indicated on pages 28—41 as follow:

A = 0, B =

Control G regulates the stitch length. For detailed instructions please refer to page 18. To backtrack the end of a seam, simply depress the finger-tip control.

G

DR 009 A

Zigzag Sewing

If you want to switch from straight (A on 0) to zigzag stitching, turn dial A to desired stitch width (indicated by numbers 1 to 4).

Lever B changes the position of the needle in the needle plate slot. Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to be left or right of the slot, as desired.

DR 851

Mechanical component with circular dial and adjustment knob (no visible text or symbols)

The position of lever B (left, center, right) indicates the position of the needle in the needle plate slot.

Control G lengthens zigzag stitches or packs them more closely together (satin stitch)

[Figure]

Close-up of a vintage sewing machine with metal components and a sewing hook (no visible text or symbols)

DR 614

Removing the Bobbin Case

Raise needle to its highest point and open free arm cap.

Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine with a knotted spring (no visible text or symbols)

Lift latch k with the forefinger of your right hand and pull out bobbin case with bobbin. When you release the latch, the bobbin drops out.

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8

Winding the Bobbin

Disengage the sewing mechanism and raise the spool pins to the vertical position.

Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins and a bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle, making sure that the key at its base enters the slot in the bobbin. Pass the thread through the right-hand thread guide, down and around the thread retainer stud, and up to the bobbin. Wind a few turns of thread on the bobbin in clockwise direction. Push the bobbin to the right and start the machine. The bobbin winder will stop automatically when the bobbin is full. Press the bobbin to the left and remove it from the spindle. Then tighten the stop motion knob again.

The amount of thread to be wound on the bobbin is regulated by turning the adjusting button accordingly. Set the button at position A for the minimum amount of thread, or at position B for the maximum. The button can be turned to the desired position after loosening its set screw with a screwdriver.

DR 859

Vintage sewing machine with needle and control panel (no visible text or symbols)

Inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you, and insert bobbin into bobbin case.
Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case slot.
3 Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the opening at the end of the spring. Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case.
Hold the case by its open latch so that the bobbin cannot fall out.

R 5867

R 5869

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R 5870

3

R 5868

4

Close-up of hands tying a string around a small object (no text or symbols visible)

Close-up of hands tying a string around a small object (no text or symbols visible)

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Close-up of a hand holding a small cylindrical object with a string, against a dark background (no text or symbols visible)

Inserting the Bobbin Case

Raise take-up lever to its highest point and lift the latch with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand. Turn bobbin case until slot points up (see arrow). Place bobbin case on center stud s of hook.

In replacing the bobbin case, it is best to hold the loose end of thread so that it will not get jammed between bobbin case and hook. Release the latch and press against bobbin case until you hear it snap into place. An improperly inserted bobbin case will cause needle breakage.

Close-up of a mechanical device with a knob, lever, and labeled component 'S' (no readable text or symbols beyond basic labels)

DR 609

Types of Fabrics	Mercerized Cotton	Silk	Needle Size
Fine Fabrics such as georgette, chiffon, batiste, voile, lawn, silk.	80 to 100	0 to 000 twist	60 or 70
Lightweight Fabrics such as dress silks and cottons, sheer woolens, shirting, draperies.	70 to 80	A & B twist	80
Medium Fabrics such as lightweight woolens, madras, muelin, brocades, heavy silks and rayon, gabardine.	50 to 70	B & C twist	90
Heavy Fabrics such as coating, denim, corduroy, slipcover fabrics, bed tickings, lightweight canvas.	40 to 50	C & D twist	100
Very Heavy Fabrics such as heavy tickings, canvas, overcoating, sailcloth, up-holstery	24 to 40	E twist	90 to 110
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate including nylon, orlon, dacron, plastics, etc.	Determined by weight of fabric 40 to 50		Determined by thread size 60 to 80

Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes

The appearance of the finished seam is dependent on the correct relationship between needle, thread and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles from this chart.

The same size threads should be used in the needle and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. However, the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the needle thread.

For embroidery and darning work, a No. 50 thread should normally be used.

Important Facts about Needles

On Pfaff 73 sewing machines, System 130 R, flat-shank needles are used for all ordinary sewing and embroidery work. Genuine Pfaff needles, System 130 R, are available from every Pfaff dealer. Bent or blunt needles should not be used.

Changing the Needle

Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.

Loosen needle set screw a half a turn and pull old needle out of needle clamp. Insert new needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back and long groove toward you. Tighten needle set screw a

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine with a hand adjusting the needle (no visible text or symbols)

DR 080

Upper Threading

Raise the presser bar lifter and swing the spool pins up to the vertical position. Place spool 1 on one of the spool pins and lead the thread behind both scrolls of thread retainer 2 (see ill. at top of p. 15). Seize the thread on the right and left of the thread retainer and pull it toward you until it snaps into he eyelets. It suffices to draw the thread into the left eyelet.

Pull the thread between any two of tension discs 3 (see ill. at bottom of p. 15) and jerk it far to the right so that it slips properly into the slot and under the thread check spring. As you do this, press the thread against the casting between spool and tension.

Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and pass the thread from right to left through the hole at its end. Lead the thread down and into slot 5. Then thread the needle from front to back.

DR 618 4 2 1 3 5 15

Close-up of a vintage sewing machine needle and base mount (no visible text or symbols)

DR 615

Correct Tension Regulation

Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. If your tension is correct, you will have perfect seams as sketched below (III).

Sketch I — The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric.

Cause: Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight. Sketch II — The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric.

Cause: Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose.

Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread

Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand. Turn balance wheel toward you until the needle moves down and up again. Lightly pull needle thread to draw bobbin thread up through the needle hole. Place both threads back under the sewing foot.

1

11

III

Regulating the Thread Tension

The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade at the factory and need not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. If a special sewing operation should require a looser or tighter tension, turn the small knurled screw on the bobbin case as follows:

Turn it left

for looser tension.

Turn it right

for tighter tension.

The thread tension screw can be turned with the thumb tip.

Determine whether the bobbin thread tension is set for a medium grade by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the bobbin case hang freely. The tension should be strong enough to keep the bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight. However, as you jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide down.

DR 580

Close-up of hands adjusting a mechanical knob with a dial indicator (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a hand holding a small object, possibly a tool or device, with no visible text or symbols.

R 8029

Hand holding a small mechanical component with a connecting rod (no text or symbols visible)

17

The final stitch appearance can be regulated by the upper tension knob, as follows:

Turn left

for looser tension.

Turn right

for tighter tension.

The upper tension is so designed that all grades of tension — loose to tight — can be covered with one complete turn of the tension dial. The numbers on the tension dial indicate different degrees of tension. The higher the number, the greater the tension. Only in very rare cases will it be necessary to reset the tension. For ordinary sewing, the upper tension should be set between 3 and 5.

Your upper tension has a third tension disc for two-needle work.

Close-up of a finger pressing a button on an electrical outlet (no text or symbols visible)

DR 008

Stitch Length Regulation

The stitch length control serves to regulate the stitch length and to limit it in sewing backwards.

Numbers 0 to 9 on the control indicate the stitch length (the higher the number, the longer the stitch). When the control is set on "0", the machine ceases feeding: the longest stitch is obtained by setting the control on "9" (about 6 stitches to the inch). To regulate the stitch length, turn the control until the desired number is fully visible at the top of the slot (see arrow).

Reverse Sewing

To sew in reverse, simply press the finger-tip control down. When the control is released, the machine resumes forward sewing.

This feature is ideal for backtacking the beginning or end of a seam and for darning rips.

18

DR 009

Close-up of a hand pressing down on a wall-mounted device with a scale and buttons (no visible text or symbols)

Changing the Sewing Foot

Lift both needle and presser bars to their highest positions and turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left. Tilt the foot sideways and pull it down.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

DR 042

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Slip on new foot and tighten screw b securely.

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Illustration of a mechanical component with a curved arrow indicating motion (no text or symbols)

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Dropping the Machine Feed

This is particularly important for hoop embroidery, darning and button sewing.

To drop the machine feed, turn the drop feed control under the free arm toward you as far as it will go. The fabric will cease feeding.

To raise the machine feed, turn the drop feed control back to its initial position. You should hear it snap into place.

Darning Foot

Remove the sewing foot. Attach darning foot No. 93-102 826-91 from the rear. Hold spring clip c so that it is behind the needle set screw, and tighten screw b.

20

DR 612

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and fabric (no visible text or symbols)

DR 083

Close-up of a vintage sewing machine on a dark base, showing needle and clasp mechanism (no visible text or symbols)

Pure electrical circuit lines without any symbols

All-Purpose Sewing Foot

(with Clear-View Shoe)

All-purpose sewing foot No. 93-100 179-00 is attached as instructed on page 19.

The transparency of its shoe facilitates all sewing operations where it is important to watch the needle penetrate the fabric.

Special application possibilities are discussed in the second part of this book under the heading "Using Sewing Feet and Attachments".

Care and Maintenance

Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regular and proper cleaning and oiling.

Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate machine with animal or vegetable oils. All moving and rotating parts require regular lubrication.

Technical illustration of a sewing machine with internal components and a circular motion indicator (no text or symbols)

Mechanical assembly diagram showing internal components and mounting brackets (no visible text or labels)

DR 053

To oil mechanism in free arm, remove sewing foot, raise needle and swing out free arm cap. Turn out the top cover screw (see arrow) with a screw-driver. Lift front end of top cover and pull the latter out lengthwise of the arm.

To replace and secure top cover, proceed in reverse order.

From time to time, lubricate the needle bar frame bearings in the sewing head.

DR 605

DR 606

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Illustration of a mechanical device with a cylindrical component and a vertical rod, no visible text or symbols

DR 054

There are two openings in the rim of the stitch width dial, one on the left and the other at the back (see arrows). These openings are the oil holes of the zigzag mechanism.

Do not lubricate the bobbin winder.

The raceway in the sewing hook is the most important oiling point. Put one drop of oil into the raceway each day you sew.

From time to time, remove the needle plate and clean the machine feed with a soft brush. Take a toothpick and remove accumulations of packed lint. Take out the bobbin case and the bobbin and clean the vicinity of the sewing hook.

Before you begin to oil the mechanism under the arm top cover and at the needle-bar end of the machine, remove the dirt and lint which have accumulated on these parts.

DR 611 DR 610

Close-up of a mechanical device with internal components and no visible text or symbols

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and base mechanism (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine with a knob and adjustment knob (no visible text or symbols)

DR 024

Changing the Light Bulb

The built-in 15-watt sewing light illuminates the area of stitching perfectly. To change the light bulb, remove the face cover, push the bulb into its socket, turn left, and pull out. When inserting new light bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into socket slots. Press bulb in and turn right.

Close-up of a vintage sewing machine showing internal components and no visible text or symbols

Removing the Face Cover

To change the light bulb or oil the parts at the needle-bar end, remove the face cover by pulling it upwards.

Replacing the Face Cover

Slip tip d into slot e and push face cover up until it snaps into place.

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24

DR 505

Mechanical assembly diagram showing a valve mechanism with no visible text or symbols

Trouble Shooting

1. Machine Skips Stitches

Cause:

Needle Incorrectly inserted.

Wrong needle.

Needle bent.

Machine threaded improperly.

Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.

2. Needle Thread Breaks

Cause:

The above-mentioned may cause thread breakage.

Thread tension too tight.

Poor or knotty thread used.

Hook raceway is jammed with thread or needs ciling.

Burrs or sharp edges on needle plate slot.

Remedy:

Push needle up as far as it will go and be sure that the long groove faces toward you, and flat side of shank away from you.

Consult needle and thread chart on page 12. (For ordinary sewing, use System 130 R needles.)

Insert new needle.

Check and correct threading as instructed on pages 14 and 15. Use correct needle and thread (see page 12).

Remedy:

See remedies listed under 1. above.

Adjust tensions as Instructed.

Use good quality threads only.

Clean and oil hook raceway.

Polish needle plate slot with fine emery cloth.

3. Needle Breaks

Cause:

Rent needle strikes point of sewing hook.

Needle too thin or thread too heavy.

Fabric pulls needle so it bends and strikes needle plate.

Bobbin case inserted incorrectly.

4. Faulty Stitch Formation

Cause:

Improper tension.

Thread too heavy, knotty or hard.

Bobbin unevenly wound.

Pieces of thread between tension discs.

5. Machine Feeds Improperly

Cause:

Feed dog dropped.

Machine does not feed because stitch length control is set on "0".

Accumulations of lint packed between feed teeth.

Remedy:

Replace needle at once to prevent further damage.

Use correct needle and thread sizes.

Don't force the feeding motion. Guide the material lightly.

Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into place (see page 11).

Remedy:

Adjust tensions as instructed.

Use only first-rate thread — the correct size for the needle and fabric.

Don't run thread over finger when winding the bobbin. (For threading the machine see page 9).

Raise presser bar lifter and remove thread.

Remedy:

Raise feed dog (see page 20).

Regulate stitch length, as desired.

Take off needle plate and remove lint with a stiff brush.

6. Machine Works Heavily

Cause:

Remedy:

Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by pieces of thread.

Clean and oil hook raceway.

Mechanism clogged by inferior oil.

Use only Pfaff sewing machine oil — never salad oil or glycerine.

Bobbin winder working while sewing (when a bobbin is not being filled).

Stop bobbin winder.

7. Motor Idies

Cause:

Remedy:

Motor disengaging lever raised.

Flick lever down (see page 5).

Thread Jamming

The Pfaff rotary hook will not normally jam, even if the machine should be handled improperly. If thread should happen to jam in the hook raceway, the power of the motor in most instances will be sufficient to overcome hard working of the mechanism.

If this action should not free the jammed thread, put a drop of oil into the hook raceway, jerk the balance wheel back, then rock it back and forth.

Using Sewing Feet and Attachments

(setting see page 6)

Zipper Insertion

Machine Setting: A = 0 · B =

Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. Position of zipper depends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the zipper. Turn fabric to right side. Run a straight seam close to left edge of zipper, stitch across end and up the other side in one continuous operation. Use right edge of foot as a guide.

Black-and-white illustration of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, with no visible text or symbols

DR 002

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a tiled floor (no text or symbols visible)

Quilting

Machine Setting: A = 0 · B =

Edge stitcher No. 847600 used with the quilting gauge sews parallel rows of stitching over the entire surface of the fabric. Always guide the gauge finger along the preceding row of stitches.

Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat pads and covers can be quilted.

DR 003 A

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

DR 075

Flat Felled Seams

Machine Setting: A = 0 or 2 (optional) · B =

Flat felled seams are used to durably join two pieces of fabric. They are made in two operations.

Flat felled seams usually are straight-stitched. Narrow zigzag stitches are used for felling on elasticized fabrics only.

First Seam

Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facing and the bottom piece protruding 18 inch. Feed both pieces into felling foot, as illustrated, so that the bottom fabric is

folded over edge of top piece and stitched down. Make sure that protruding seam allowance is not folded twice.

Second Seam

Open the two pieces, place them under the needle right side up, insert seam ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down to the left. Make sure that the second seam is placed close to the edge but not beyond it.

The felling foot has a needle slot, rather than a needle hole, to permit zigzag felling.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Hemming

Machine Setting: A = 0 or 2 to 3 (optional) · B =

The hemmer foot is indispensable if you want to sew a uniform hem. You can hem with straight or zigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric you are using.

Fold over edge of fabric about 12 " to facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot. Place fabric under hemmer foot so that the needle stitches in the material about 12 " short of its rear edge and close to the folded edge. Sew backwards as far as the rear fabric edge. Take the work out of the machine by pulling it forward. Don't trim the threads (sketch 1).

Draw the fabric into the scroll of the hemmer by pulling both threads backwards. Inserting the fabric into the scroll like this will ensure a neat hem right from the beginning. Feed fabric so that the hem edge is in line with the left edge of the hemmer scroll. Don't crowd fabric into the scroll, but keep scroll well filled with fabric at all times (see ill. at top).

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, showing mechanical components and fabric texture (no text or symbols visible)

DR 073

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Avoid ugly ends by slowing down feeding. To do this, press the fabric against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you come to the end of the hem (see ill. at bottom).

If you want to hem several edges, hem first edge to within about 12 " of corner, cut away remaining portion of hem, as shown in sketch 2. Then hem the second edge, as instructed above.

Before you hem the last edge, cut away about 14 " of the hem sewn first, as illustrated in sketch 3.

DR 074
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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

DR 081

Overcasting Edges

Machine Setting: A = 2 to 4 (optional) · B =

Overcasting prevents frayed edges. Use a long, wide zigzag stitch and sew edge with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over its edge. You may overcast edges after fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined.

Butt Seaming

Machine Setting: A = 3 or 4 · B =

Two similar pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted together and joined with zigzag stitches. Worn bed sheets may be mended this way. Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvaged edges of the remaining pieces of sheet under the sewing foot so that the abutted edges are centered under the needle. Join them with close, wide zigzag stitches. Hem raw edges of sheet.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

DR 076

Darning without Darning Hoops

You will really appreciate the free arm of your Pfaff 73 when you darn tubular clothing, such as underpants, sleeves, socks or stockings without darning hoops.

Trim ragged edges of hole with the fabric grain, then stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running at high speed.

Now sew back and forth over preceding work with short stitches taken ▶ lengthwise of the arm. This anchors threads in the unworn area around the hole. Always hold fabric taut.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Black-and-white photo of a mechanical device with a circular component and surrounding components (no visible text or symbols)

DR 056

Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine needle on a fabric (no visible text or symbols)

DR 057

Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine with a small electrical socket (no visible text or symbols)

DR 559

Darning

Machine setting: A = 0, B =

Prepare your machine for darning as Instructed on page 20. Place fabric into darning hoops, the damaged area being

the center of the hoops. Hoops may be obtained from your Pfaff dealer.

Triangular Tears

Triangular tears are best darned by placing the torn section between hoops and making close stitches across and lengthwise. Move work under the needle with both hands.

Thin Spots

Remember that "a stitch in time saves nine" and reinforce spots that have worn thin with short stitches made lengthwise and across worn

section. This job can be done with-out foot, too.

Small Holes

Darn small and medium-size holes by trimming ragged edges with the fabric grain. First stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running at high speed. Then turn the fabric at right angles and sew back and forth over preceding work with short sit-

ches. Make sure the stitches are taken right into the good material.

Long Rips

may be darned with the normal sewing foot and without hoops. Set needle plate in its normal, or sewing, position and use forward-reverse feed control.

Three-panel illustration showing sewing process: fabric application, needle stitching, and fabric cutting (no text or symbols)

DR 065 R 7157

Inserting Patches
Machine Setting: A = 4 · B = ↓

Large holes can be patched quickly. The following method may be used for jersey fabrics. Cut patch so that the grain will match the rest of the fabric. Place the patch over the damaged area.

Sew it down with a wide zigzag stitch of medium length.

For additional strength stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim close to seams.

Attaching Lace
Machine Setting: A = 2 · B =

You can attach lace edging in one simple operation. Fold the edge of the fabric about 38'' over to the wrong side, following the texture, and preferably iron it down. Place the straight edge of the lace on the fold of the fabric and sew it down with narrow zigzag stitches, taking one stitch into lace and fabric and the other into lace only. Cut off excessive cloth on

the wrong side of the material close to the seam.

DR 044

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching a flower (no text or symbols visible)

DR 033

Applique Work

Machine Setting: A = 1½ to 2 · B =

Applique is easy and modern.

Trace design on wrong side of fabric and baste a piece of contrasting material to right side. Outline design on wrong side with a narrow zigzag stitch — and the motif will appear on the right side.

Applique is very effective on buster suits, pinafores, bibs, frocks, covers, wall hangings, or wherever a gay note is desired.

Fill out small, but essential sections of design with granite stitches.

Black-and-white illustration of a hand holding scissors cutting a flower with leaves (no text or symbols)

Trim excess material close to the seam and sew over edges of applique with a mediumwide satin stitch.

If you want to give the design a plastic effect, use buttonhole foot No. 847 616, flick lever B to the left and satin-stitch over a filler thread (see also page 36).

R 7167

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R 7220

Illustration of a girl in a dress standing next to a small house and two gourds (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and base mount (no visible text or symbols)

DR 082

Sewing Buttonholes

Attach buttonhole foot No. 847616 and set slide on buttonhole gauge to buttonhole length desired. The buttonhole is the right length when beginning of first seam reaches red end of slide indicator (see arrow below). When you follow the procedure on the opposite page, the bartacks at each end of your buttonhole will be twice as wide as a buttonhole seam.

Machine Setting: A = 1½ (2) (first notch) · B =

Stitch Length (for buttonhole seam): Almost 0.

Use only embroidery and darning thread No. 50.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and fabric (no visible text or symbols)

If you prefer more prominent buttonholes, pull a filler cord in the guide groove. To get the correct stitch length, sew on a piece of scrap material. In making buttonholes in soft or loosely woven fabrics, it is advisable to place a piece of tissue paper under the material. To strengthen buttonholes in tricot and knit fabrics, insert a piece of firmly woven cotton material between the fabric layers.

Buttonholes may be made with the aid of the all-purpose sewing foot. Place the filler cord in the left groove of the clear-view shoe.

DR 035

Direction of Sewing ① ② ③ ④ ⑤ ⑥ ⑦

Instructions for Buttonholing

1 Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginning of seam reaches red end of slide indicator on buttonhole gauge, it is the right length. Leave needle in fabric on right side of its throw.
2 Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using needle as a pivot. Pull filler cord around the needle to the left and lay it parallel to completed line of stitching. Lower foot and take one stitch to the left.
3 Turn dial A until it is caught in second notch (or stops at 4). Make 4 to 6 bartack stitches, slightly closing together button-hole end to reduce length of bar.

4 Change dial A to "1½" (2). Trim filler cord at end of first stitch row. Sew second row and stop about 4 to 6 stitches from end of first row.
5 Turn dial A to second notch position (or "4"). Make second tack, as instructed above.
6 Turn dial A to "0" and make 3 or 4 fastening stitches.
7 Trim both the sewing and filler threads. Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper. Be careful not to injure the bartacks.

Illustration of a tool applying material to a textured surface (no text or symbols)

Button Sewing

Don't be afraid to sew on buttons or rings with your Pfaff. The needle won't break and the threads will not get loose either. The latter may happen only with ready-made clothing sewn with a chain stitch. It won't be worthwhile to take the machine out for sewing on a single button, but you will appreciate this feature when sewing lines of buttons on pillow and bed covers, on shirts or dresses, or when fastening rings on curtains etc. There your machine will come in very handy. Attach all-purpose sewing foot No. 93-100 179-00. Set stitch length control on 0.

Hooks and eyes are sewn on with the aid of a special button sewing foot. No. 847 608, which can be obtained from your Pfaff dealer.

DR 583

Black-and-white photo of a sewing machine stitching circular components on a textured surface (no text or symbols visible)

Machine Setting: A = 0 · B = ♦, feed dog dropped.

Place button under button sewing foot and align so that needle will enter left hole. Let needle stitch through hole and make one or two tying stitches. Raise needle. Turn dial A counter-clockwise, usually to 3, until needle on the right of its throw is centered over right hole. Start machine and sew as many zigzag stitches as you deem necessary to fasten button securely. Return dial A to 0 and make two or three tying stitches. When sewing on four-hole buttons, reposition button and repeat the above process, stitching through the second pair of holes.

DR 038

Monogram Embroidery

Machine Setting: A = 3 to 4 · B =

Feed dog dropped. Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the hoops and the presser bar lifter lowered. Let the needle stitch into the fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread ends and sew over outline, moving hoops slowly and evenly. To give your monogram dimensional quality, embroider outline twice. Be sure stitches are closely spaced.

Close-up of hands using a metal tool to draw a curved, dark object on a circular surface (no text or symbols visible)

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric, no visible text or symbols

Sewing Monograms

Machine Setting: A = 2½ to 3 · B =

The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Set needle plate so that feed dog feeds the material. Set machine for satin stitch and sew outlines of monogram, making sure that seams do not overlap at joints of letters.

DR 031

39

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

DR 001

Straight-Stitch Hemstitching

Machine Setting: A = 0 · B = ; Stitch Length: 2 to 4

Insert twin hemstitching needle, System 130 Zwi-Ho, as instructed on page 13. Turn out needle set screw a little further than for ordinary needles.

The thread size, threading procedure and thread tension are the same as for cording work (see page 42).

Beautiful hemstitching effects on blouses, dresses, handkerchiefs, dollies and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaff's System 130 twin needle. The harder the fabric yarn, the more pronounced the hemstitching will be. For this reason, batiste, organdy, georgette, etc. are best suited to hemstitching, while woolly fabrics are not recommended.

Procedure

Fold fabric to mark seamline or trace seamline on fabric. Sew first row. Guide fabric so that wing needle stitches along traced line. At the end of the seam, turn fabric half a turn and sew second row. Guide fabric in such a way that wing needle penetrates the needle holes it has made and enlarged previously.

Imitation hemstitching thus requires at least two operations. If desired, additional straight or curved ornamental seams may be stitched parallel to the first one. Exciting decorative effects may be obtained by using vari-colored embroidery and darning threads.

Zigzag Hemstitching

Machine Setting: A = Up to 1½ · B = ↓

Procedure

Same as above, except that the wing needle should penetrate the traced line only when it is on the left of its throw.

R 8427

40

Cording

Machine Setting: A = 0 · B =

To cord on your Pfaff 73, use a cording foot and a twin needle.

Twin needles are available for needle distances of 1.2 (3/64"), 1.6 (1/16"), 1.8, 2.0 (5/64"), 2.5 (3/32"), 3.0, and 4.0 (5/32") millimeters.

Cording feet are available in three varieties, as follows:

Pin tucks are made with cording foot No. 847 680 (7 grooves, ^3/_44 wide each) and a 1.2-mm twin needle. For narrow cording foot

For narrow cording use cording foot No. 847 675 (5 grooves, 1/16" wide each; see ill.) and a 1.6-mm twin needle. Wider cording is made with the same size.

After cording is made with cording foot No. 847 671 (3 grooves, ^5/_64 wide each) and a twin needle with a needle distance of 2.0 or 2.5 millimeters.

Cording foot and twin needles, System 130 R, are supplied on special request and at extra cost.

Changing the Needle and the Sewing Foot

Bring take-up lever to highest point, loosen needle set screw a, and pull ordinary needle out of needle clamp. Insert twin needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back. Tighten needle set screw a securely.

a b f q

Turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing foot. Slip on cording foot and tighten screw b securely.

it is best to turn out screw b completely if you want to slip on a cording foot with the guide attached.

Thread Size

Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. 50 embroidery thread, wider cording with sewing silk in the needle and on the bobbin.

Set the machine for a medium stitch length (about 4).

Upper Threading

Place a spool of thread on each of the two spool pins. Pass both thread ends through both thread retainer openings 2, as illustrated on page 15. Lead one thread between the rear and center tension discs, and the other between the center and front tension discs of upper tension 3. Raise take-up lever 4 to its highest position and pass both threads through the hole at its end. Pull threads into slot 5 and thread each needle from front to back.

The bobbin thread is drawn up as instructed on page 16. To do this, hold both needle threads in your left hand.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Thread Tension

Slightly increase the bobbin thread tension, and increase or decrease the needle thread tension depending on the type of fabric used. If the tension has been set correctly, the bobbin thread should appear as a faint zigzag line on the other side.

Filled Cording

If you want to make cording in filmy fabrics or render your cording more prominent, Pfaff recommends that you insert a filler cord. Its thickness depends on the cording size you want.

Remove the bed slide and pass the filler cord through hole g from below (see ill. on page 41). Lay the end of the filler cord back under the cording foot (together with the needle and bobbin thread ends). Pull a filler cord forward under the bed slide and place the ball in your lap.

DR 521

42

DR 058

Illustration of a button-up shirt with collar and buttons, shown in black on a dark background (no text or symbols)

Spacing between Tucks

To ensure uniform spacing between parallel tucks, place the preceding seam into of the grooves of the foot and use it as a guide.

For a larger spacing between tucks, use the adjustable guide (see ill. on page 42) which is part of every cording foot.

Various Cording Effects

Attractive cording effects may be obtained by combining horizontal, vertical and diagonal tucks or stitching curved tucks (see ill, below).

If you want to turn a corner, leave needle in fabric (up to needle eye only), lift foot, turn fabric, lower foot, and continue sewing. To stitch an acute angle, turn fabric halfway, let needle make one stitch, turn fabric all the way, and resume stitching.

DR 473

Abstract geometric pattern with three parallel chevron shapes on a textured background (no text or symbols)

DR 474

Close-up of a wavy, elongated line on a textured gray background (no text or symbols)

DR 475

Abstract geometric pattern with nested rectangular outlines (no text or symbols)

DR 058 A

Abstract sketch of intersecting geometric shapes with diagonal hatching (no text or symbols)

Close-up of a dark fabric sleeve with a patterned collar and diamond stitching (no text or symbols visible)

DR 059

Ornamental Sewing

You can make exciting fashion stitch designs by alternating straight and zigzag stitching, varying stitch length, stitch width or needle position by hand. This will be easy after you have had sufficient practice. Some of the designs you can make are illustrated below.

Interesting two-needle effects can be obtained by using a 1.6 mm twin needle (see page 41) and different color thread. For twin-needle sewing, the stitch width dial should not be turned beyond 112 .

44

R 5414

Close-up of a textured fabric with vertical seam patterns and wavy topography (no text or symbols)

Three identical line drawings of a coiled spring or rope, showing different spring-to-stick patterns (no text or symbols)

Coarse-Thread Embroidery

Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A = 0 to 4; needle position lever B = optional; stitch length: small to medium.

Buy coarse, four-ply embroidery thread in the desired colors from your Pfaff dealer. Embroidery designs made with this thread are very attractive. They have dimensional quality and closely resemble manual embroidery work.

The adjoining designs were made with the zigzag stitch. To make the design illustrated in the middle, alternate straight and zigzag stitching.

Machine embroidery is made with the machine running at a moderate speed.

Stitching Synthetic Materials

Curtains

Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A = 1 to 3, depending on material; needle position lever B = ♦ stitch length control = 1.

To finish the edge of synthetic curtain fabrics, such as Diolen, use a matching synthetic thread. If necessary, ease the upper and lower tensions somewhat.

Both these hints should be adhered to in order to avoid shrinking of both the thread and the fabric in the laundry.

To butt seam the various sections of curtains, proceed as instructed on p. 31.

Plastic Sheets

Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A = 0 to 2; needle position lever B = ↓ stitch length: medium.

Plastic curtains, as are used in kitchens and bathrooms, are sewn with synthetic thread or cotton and a fine needle.

Place a piece of tissue paper under sticky plastic sheets which can be easily removed after the sewing. To prevent plastic sheets from sticking to the sewing foot, wipe its sole with an oily cloth.

CONTENTS

	Page
Foreword	1
Essential Parts	2
Fundamentals of Machine Operation	3
How to Operate Your Sewing Machine
Engaging and Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism	4
The Workplate	4
Electrical Information	5
Motor Disengaging Mechanism	5
Foot Control	5
Straight Stitching	6
Zigzag Sewing	7
Removing the Bobbin Case	8
Winding the Bobbin	9
Inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case	10
Inserting the Bobbin Case	11
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes	12
Important Facts about Needles	13
Changing the Needle	13
Upper Threading	14
Correct Tension Regulation	16
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread	16
Regulating the Thread Tension	17
Stitch Length Regulation	18
Reverse Sewing	18
Changing the Sewing Foot	19
Dropping the Machine Feed	20

	Page
Darning Foot	20
All-Purpose Sewing Foot	21
Care and Maintenance	22
Changing the Light Bulb	24
Removing and Replacing the Face Cover	24
Trouble Shooting	25
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments
Zipper Insertion	28
Quilting	28
Flat Felled Seams	29
Hemming	30
Overcasting Edges	31
Butt Seaming	31
Darning without Darning Hoops	32
Darning	33
Inserting Patches	34
Attaching Lace	34
Applique Work	35
Sewing Buttonholes	36
Button Sewing	38
Sewing and Embroidering Monograms	39
Hemstitching	40
Cording	41
Ornamental Sewing	44
Coarse Thread Embroidery	45
Stitching Synthetic Materials	46

PFAFF®