Solid OL900 - Sewing machine JATA - Free user manual and instructions

Product Type	Overlock sewing machine
Brand	JATA
Model	Solid OL900
Max Speed	1200 stitches per minute
Seam Width	3.0 – 6.7 mm (adjustable)
Stitch Length	F (≈1 mm) – 4 mm (adjustable)
Number of Threads	2, 3, or 4
Needle System	EL X 705, Cat. Nr. 2020
Needle Sizes	80/11, 90/14
Sewing Foot Type	Clip-on, lift height 4.5 mm
Differential Feed	Adjustable ratio 0.5 – 2.0
Dimensions (L×H×W)	395 × 360 × 375 mm
Weight	6.5 kg
Power Supply	110-240 V AC, polarized plug
Lubrication	Manual (oil points behind looper cover)
Sewing Light Bulb	15 W max, replaceable
Safety Features	Auto power cut when looper cover opens, polarized plug
Included Accessories	3 needles, screwdrivers (large/small), tweezers, cleaning brush, lower knife, 4 thread unreeling discs, mechanical oil, machine cover, lint box, foot control
Special Accessories (Optional)	Blindstitch foot, gimp foot, elastic tape foot, shirring foot, cording foot, bead foot, lace foot
Intended Use	Household overlock sewing

Frequently Asked Questions - Solid OL900 JATA

How do I thread the upper overedge looper?

Follow the pink-colored path behind the looper cover. Use the provided tweezers. Insert thread through guides 5 to 8, then through the eye of the upper overedge looper (step 9). Pull about 10 cm of thread and lay it to the left under the sewing foot.

How do I adjust thread tension for a 4-thread overedge seam?

Turn the tension wheels until the dot marker points to the recommended setting. For medium-heavy fabric and polyester yarn, set blue to N, green to -2, pink to -2, yellow to -1. Adjust if looper threads show on wrong side.

How do I change the needle?

Switch off the mains. Lower the sewing foot and turn the handwheel to bring the needle to its highest point. Loosen the needle fastening screw, remove the old needle. Insert a new needle (system EL X 705) with the flat side to the rear, then tighten the screw.

What is the converter and when should I use it?

The converter is a part used for 2-thread seams and the 2-needle, 3-thread overedge closing seam. Mount it on the upper overedge looper by pulling it out from the front, inserting hub A into the looper aperture, and rotating it to lock. Disengage to revert.

How do I adjust the differential feed?

Use lever 30 to set the ratio between front and rear feed dogs. For normal fabrics, set to 1.0. For stretch (e.g., silk), set to 0.5 to prevent puckering. For gathering, set to 2.0. Test on a scrap fabric first.

How do I clean the machine?

Switch off the mains. Remove the lint box, open the looper cover, disengage the upper knife, and remove the sewing foot. Use the included lint brush to remove lint from the needle plate, knives, and looper area. Lubricate specified points with oil every time you clean.

How do I change the lower knife?

Switch off the mains. Remove the lint box and open the looper cover. Disengage the upper knife and raise the needles. Use the large screwdriver to loosen lower knife retaining screw A, remove the knife. Insert a new knife into the recess and tighten the screw. Re-engage the upper knife and close the cover.

How do I replace the sewing light bulb?

Switch off the mains. Use the large screwdriver to loosen the retaining screw of the sewing light cover, remove the cover. Push the bulb in, turn it counter-clockwise to remove. Insert a new 15 W max bulb, rotate clockwise until it locks. Replace the cover and tighten the screw.

Why does my machine not operate even when switched on?

The looper cover must be fully closed for the machine to run. If the cover is open, the power is interrupted for safety. Close the cover securely. If the problem persists, check the power connection and fuse.

How do I adjust sewing foot pressure?

Use the small screwdriver to turn set screw 22. For lightweight fabrics, reduce pressure by turning left. For heavy fabrics, increase by turning right. To reset to standard, turn right until it hits the top lid, then turn back left 6 rotations.

USER MANUAL Solid OL900 JATA

SOLID

overlock 900

Mod. OL900

MANUAL DE INSTRUÇÕES

Important safety instructions

This sewing machine is intended for household use only. Read all instructions before using and follow all the basic safety precautions detailed bellow:

DANGER

To reduce the risk of electric shock:

• An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
  • Always unplug before replacing the bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

Operate sewing machine only when mounted in sewing machine table, case, and the like.

• This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliances by a person responsible for their safety.
• Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommend

ded by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

• Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not use outdoors.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
• To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet.
• Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
  • Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
• Do not use bent needles.
• Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
• Unplug the sewing machine when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
• Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

• Dispose the appliance according to the local garbage regulations.
- Dispose the batteries according to the local garbage regulation.
- Never throw it away to the rubbish. So you will help to the improvement of the environment.

PROTECCÃO DO MEIO AMBIENTE

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Para insertar la aguja(s)

Precaución:

Line drawing of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no text or symbols)

12. ENHEBRADO DE LA MAQUINA

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Illustration of hands operating a sewing machine needle (no text or symbols visible)

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Illustration of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no text or symbols)

13. COMO CAMBIAR LOS HILOS/METODO DEL NUDO

17. ARRASTRE

20. COSTURA CON BRAZO LIBRE (TRABAJO EN TUBULAR)

Three-step line drawing showing a sewing machine being adjusted for a component, with no visible text or symbols.

21. SOBREORILLADO STANDARD Y PUNTO PARA RIBETEADO ENRROLLADO

23 COLOCACION DE LA TENSION SUGERIDA

1) Doble Cadeneta

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Note:

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25. VARIACIONES DE PUNTADA Y TECNICAS DE COSTURA

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Technical line drawing of a textile machine with spools and clamps (no text or labels)

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26. MANTENIMIENTO DE LA MAQUINA

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27 ACCESORIOS OPCIONALES

Adjusting the seam width

Adjusting the stitch length

Adjusting the thread tension

Bead sewing foot

Blind stitch foot

Changing the light bulb (sawing light)

Changing the lower knife

Changing the needle

Changing the sewing foot

Cleaning rubber feet

Cleaning the machine

Connecting foot control

Cording foot

Differential feed

Elastic tape sewing foot

Encaging/disengaging the upper knife

Folded 2-thread rolled hem

Folded 3-thread rolled hem

Free arm

Gimp sewing foot

Lace sewing foot

Lint box

Looper cover

Lubricating the machine

Machine cover

Machine maintenance

Mains switch

Mounting the converter

Needle position

Program summary

Setting the slide lever for stitch width stitch finger

Sewing foot lift

Sewing foot pressure

Sewing problems and their solutions

Shirring foot

Special accessories

Specifications

Thread spool stand

Page

Telescopic thread guide 10

Thread spool net 10

Thread unreeling disc 10

Threading/guide wires 12

Threading upper overedge looper (pink) 13

Threading lower overedge looper (yellow) 14 - 15

Threading right needle A (green) 16

Threading left needle B (blue) 17

Thread reel change on threaded machine 18

Thread chain cutter 19

Thread table for 2-, 3- and 4-thread overedge seam 55

2-needle 3-thread overedge closing seam 43

2-thread overedge seam FLATLOCE (wide, narrow) 39

2-thread serging seam (wide, narrow) 40

2-thread rolled hem 41

3-thread overedge seam(wide, narrow) 34

3-thread serging seam(wide, narrow) 35

3-thread decorative seam sering FLATLOCK (wide, narrow) 36

3-thread rolled hem 37

4-thread queredge seam 32-33

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Simple, up-to-date sewing

Congratulations! You have bought a high-quality product that provides unique advantages. Your new 853/854 can take any material in its stride and will sew, trim and neaten up for you in one operation.

Your hobbylock features the very latest in design and technology, and it is just as easy to use as this instruction manual is to follow.

If you now take a little time to study the instruction manual, nothing can go amiss.

It is certainly time well spent, since it is the only way to find out just what your machine can do and put it to full use.

If you have any further questions – just ask your dealer. He is happy to be of serice with any help or advice.

So, now let's get started! We wish you many enjoyable hours creating your very own fashion ideas.

Hand placing a small object into a white rectangular block (no text or symbols visible)

Accessory box

Pull accessory box 11 to the left and remove the accessories.

Assorted office supplies including a calculator, pen, and film reels arranged on a dark surface (no text or symbols visible)

Accessories

The following accessories are included with the machine:
1 Overedge needles system EL X 705, cat. Nr. 2020
2 Screwdriver (large)
3 Screwdriver (small)
4 Pair of tweezers
5 Cleaning brush
6 Lower knife
7 Thread unreeling discs (4x) 8 Mechanical oil

Transparent plastic bag with a blurred interior (no visible text or symbols)

Machine Cover

The machine cover protects the machine against dust and dirt. After each use push in telescopic thread guide 21. Thread spool stand 24 with or without thread spool must be pushed against the machine as far as it will go. The machine cover can now be placed in position.

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OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

Connecting the foot control

Insert the plugs of the foot control into machine socket 27 and the power source respectively. Sewing speed is regulated by applying pressure to the foot control. In addition, sewing speed can be set by means of the bed slide adjuster at the top and of the foot control.

Position ▶ = half speed

Mains switch

The sewing light lights up when mains

switch 28 is switched on,

The machine is now ready for operation.

* 0 * = OFF

"1" = ON

Position ← = full speed

Notes on safety

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Foot control sewing machine, foot controller type AE 033 has to be used.

Hand holding a white paper or scroll with a ruler, next to a machine component labeled 'B54' (no readable text beyond label)

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Press against the lower part of the container until the lower tabs snap into the lower slots of the looper cover. For removal of the lint box, use the reverse sequence.

Lint box

Insert the upper tabs of lint box 34 into the upper slots of looper cover 7.

Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine (no visible text or symbols)

Looper cover

Slide looper cover 7 as far as it will go to the right and swing it downwards. Individual threading paths are displayed in colour on the inside of the machine, as well as the threading method of the over-edge looper. In addition, the mounting procedure for the converter and the three most common stitch types are shown symbolically.

Note: For safety reasons, as soon as the looper cover is opened, the power supply to the machine is interrupted, i.e. the machine will not operate.

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Hand operating a mechanical device with internal components (no visible text or symbols)

Thread spool stand

Before the thread spools are set in place, thread spool stand 24 must be pulled as far as it will go to the back.

Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine with spools and threads (no visible text or symbols)

Telescopic thread guide

Extend telescopic thread guide 21 upwards.

To ensure optimum thread take-off, the two upper telescopes must be rotated slowly until their locking balls are heard to lock into place.

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Thread unreeling disc

The thread unreeling disc included in the accessories is intended for use with smaller thread spools. Insert the thread unreeling disc into the thread spool and place them both on the cone adapter of the thread spool pin.

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Needle position

As shown in the illustration, up to two needles can be inserted into the needle holder. Retaining screw A belongs to the right overedge needle, retaining screw B to the left overedge needle.

In this instructions manual the various needle positions are shown in a schematic drawing of the needle holder. See the above examples.

Note: If both the left and right overedge needles have been inserted, the left needle will be somewhat higher than the right needle.

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Changing the needle Switch off at the mains switch.

Overedge needles for system EL X 705, cat. Nr. 2020 are required for this machine. Lower the sewing foot with the sewing foot lift and turn the handwheel until the needle is at its highest point.

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Loosen the needle fastening screw (without removing it completely) with the small sorowdriver included in the accessories and remove the needle in a downward motion. Insert a new needle into the needle holder with the flat side to the rear and relighten the respective fastening screw.

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Threading

A colour-coded threading diagram for quick reference is to be found behind the looper cover, i.e. inside the machine.

Thread the individual threads-as shown -following steps 1 to 4.

The colour markings are applicable as follows:

1. Upper overedge looper=pink

2. Lever overedge looper=yellow

3. Right needle-green

4. Left needle=blue

Close-up of a sewing machine with multiple spools and a stand (no visible text or symbols)

Threading/guide wires

Place the thread spools on spool pins 25. Use cone adapters 26 only with conical spools. Further notes on the thread spool net and thread unreeling disc are to be found on page 10. Insert the threads through the guide wires 20 from back to front according to the colour coding.

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Lift carrying handle 3. Insert the threads beneath the handle and through rear guides 33 by pulling down with both hands until the yarn slips under the guide wire. Now pull the thread between the tension discs and press it down until it is lodged between the latter. Return the carrying handle to its closed position.

Threading/upper overedge looper (pink)

Thread by following steps 1 to 9. Note: To facilitate threading use the tweezers included in the accessory box.

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Insert the thread along the path marked in pink through guides 5 to 8.

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Insert the thread from the front through the eye in upper overedge looper 9, pull about 10 cm of thread through the looper and lay it to the left underneath the sewing foot.

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Interior view of an electronic device with visible wiring and components (no readable text or symbols)

Threading the lower overedge looper (yellow)

Turn the handwheel in the direction of the arrow until overedge looper 15 is positioned at the extreme right.

Interior view of a sewing machine with numbered components and spools (no visible text or symbols)

Insert the thread by following steps 1 to 10.

Note: To facilitate threading, use the tweezers included in the accessory box.

Insert the thread along the path marked in yellow through guides 4 to 8.

The diagrams to be found behind the looper cover illustrate the principles of threading.

Lay the thread from back to front over the right-hand side of the looper. Carefully pull the thread to the left and slightly down until it slips into notch B (=threading point 9) of the looper.

Pure mechanical diagram showing a hand operating a component with no text or symbols

Insert thread from the front through the eye of lower overedge looper C (= threading point 10). The thread must run along the groove in the looper.

Pull about 10 cm or thread through the looper and lay it to the left underneath the sewing foot.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle with spool, no visible text or symbols

Threading /right needle A (green) Insert the thread by following steps 1 to 9.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and fabric (no visible text or symbols)

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Note: The thread must run through the upper slot in guide 7.
Pull about 10 cm of thread through the looper and lay it to the left underneath the sewing foot.
Note: To facilitate threading of the needle eye, use the tweezers included in the accessory box and lower the sewing foot.

Threading/left needle B (blue)
Thread the left needle B by following steps 1 to 7.

Close-up of a sewing machine with spool and thread, no visible text or symbols

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and clasp mechanism (no visible text or symbols)

Note: The thread must run through the lower slot in guide 5.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle and clamping mechanism (no visible text or symbols)

Pull about 10 cm of thread through the needle eye and lay it to the left underneath the cowing foot.
Note: To facilitate threading of the needle eye, use the tweezers included in the accessory box and lower the sewing foot.

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Important note on threading:

The thread must also be removed from the needle(s) if the looper threads break. Re-insert the looper thread first, then re-thread the needle(s).

The needle threads must always be inserted last in order to avoid mistakes with the left looper thread and thread breakage or missed stitches.

Thread reel change on threaded machine

Cut the threads close to the thread spool and set the new thread reels in place. Tie together the threads still in the machine and the new threads, and pull the threads out of the needles. Set all the thread tensions to -5. Now pull on the needle threads until the knots are about 15 cm past the last thread guide before the needles. Cut the knots off and pull the threads through the respective needle eyes. The looper threads can be pulled continuously past the looper eye and laid to the left underneath the sewing foot.

Important notice to the chapter "Sewing foot lift"

Once the thread chain has been formed, the sewing foot lift does not need to be raised any further as long as one continues working with the same thread and sewing foot. If you wish to work on another garment, then it is sufficient to lift up the front part of the presser foot slightly with your thumb. The slide the garment under the raised part of the sewing foot. When the pedal is activated, the garment is then automatically taken up by the feed dog and transported on further.

Close-up of a hand operating a sewing machine (no visible text or symbols)

Sewing foot lift

The sewing foot can be raised and lowered with sewing foot lift 32. The maximum vertical lift of 6 mm for the sewing foot for particularly thick fabrics can be achieved by also depressing the sewing foot lift towards the back.

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Thread chain cutter

After finishing a seam, continue to sew a thread chain of 15–20 cm. Pull the thread chain towards the front over thread chain cutter 23. The thread chain will thus be cut.

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Changing the sewing foot Switch off at the mains switch

To remove: Raise the needle(s) to the highest position and lift the sewing foot. Press the white lever at the rear of the sewing foot holder. The sewing foot will be released automatically from the holder and can be removed to the left. To do this, lift the spring slightly.

To insert: Lift the spring slightly and insert the sewing foot under the holder so that when the sewing foot lever is lowered, the pin of the foot locks into the sewing foot holder.

Check: Please lift the sewing foot lever to ensure that the sewing foot is properly locked into place.

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Disengaging the upper knife Switch off at the mains switch

Raise upper knife 19 to its uppermost position by rotating the handwheel. Detach the lint box and open the looper covet. Now slide the holder of the movable upper knife fully towards the right.

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Turn the head of the upper knife away from you until the upper knife locks into a horizontal position.

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Engaging the upper knife

Slide the holder of the movable upper knife towards the right and swing the knife back until it locks into its working position. Close the looper cover and re-attach the lint box.

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Mounting the converter Switch off at the mains switch

The converter must be mounted for all 2-thread seems and the 2-needle, 3-thread overedge closing seam. Detach the lint box and open the looper cover, Converter 6 is located in the front of the machine housing. Pull it out.

Rotate the handwheel until the upper overedge looper is positioned to the right of the movable upper knife.

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Insert hub A of the converter into the aperture of the upper overedge lopper.

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Rotate the converter towards the left and press the upper part slightly to the rear so that the tip of the converter locks into the eye of the looper.

The converter can be removed by following these directions in reverse order.

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Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to cut fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Adjusting sesm width
Switch off at the mains switch

Detach the lint box. The seam width can be continuously adjusted as desired from 3.0 mm to 4.5 mm by turning seam width adjustment knob 17. The seam width can be more easily adjusted if the upper knife holder is pushed slightly to the right.

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The adjustments are marked on the needle plate. R is the seam width adjustment for rolled seams.

Note: The seam width adjustments between 3.0 mm and 4.5 mm apply to the right needle only. For the left needle, the set value is increased by 2.2 mm, i.e. the seam width can be continuously adjusted from 5.2 mm to 6.7 mm.

Adjusting the stitch length

The stitch length can be set as desired from F(△1mm) to 4 mm by turning stitch length adjustment knob 31.

For most sewing work, the stitch length adjustment knob should be set at 3 mm. When working with close-knit fabrics, set the adjustment knob to 4 mm.

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Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to press fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Sewing foot pressure

The machine's factory-set sewing foot pressure is suitable for medium-heavy fabrics.

The sewing foot pressure does not need to be changed for most fabrics. If lighter—or heavier fabrics are sewn, it may however become necessary to reset the pressure.

In this event, insert the small screwdriver from the accessory box into set screw 22 for adjusting the sewing foot pressure. The pressure is adjusted by turning the set screw to the left or right. For light-weight fabrics: reduce pressure by turning the set screw to the left. For heavyweight fabrics: increase pressure by turning the set screw to the right.

Note: Turn the set screw to the right until it strikes against the top lid. Then turn the screw back to the left, rotating it 6 times. Now the standard sewing foot pressure is set.

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Close-up of a sewing machine needle with labeled parts A and B (no additional text or symbols visible)

Differential feed

The differential feed consists of two feed dogs (A+B), arranged one behind the other, which move the workpiece. Adjustment lever 30 regulates the movement of the front feed don(A), and thus the amount of fabric to be fed through. It can be adjusted within the range 0.5 and 2.0.

The standard adjustment is 1.0, by which the front feed dog (A) moves synchronously with the rear feed dog(B), i.e., the front and rear feed dogs both move the same amount of fabric.

Note: The effectiveness of the differential feed also depends on the stitch length selected and the type of fabric used.

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Close-up of a textured surface with a white wavy edge and label 'A' and 'B' (no readable text or symbols)

If differential feed adjustment lever 30 is set to 0.5, the front feed dog moves half as fast as the rear feed dog, i.e. the front feed dog feeds through only half as much fabric as the rear feed dog.

As a result, the fabric is stretched.

This prevents the seam from becoming gathered when sewing very delicate fabrics such as silk and taffeta. The result is a smooth seam (A).

Fashionable touches can also be introduced in this way, such as the wave effect when using rib knit (B).

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Close-up of a mechanical device with a dial and handle (no visible text or symbols)

Set differential feed adjustment lever 30 to 2.0 so that the front feed dog moves twice as fast as the rear feed dog, i.e., the front feed dog feeds through twice as much fabric as the rear feed dog.

As a result, the fabric is gathered.

Close-up of a textured fabric with labeled sections C and D, showing layered patterns (no text or symbols beyond labels)

This prevents the seam from becoming stretched when sewing knitted fabrics such as Jersey and rid stitch goods. The result is a smooth seam (C).

Fashionable touches can also be introduced in this way, such as the gather effect when using very delicate fabrics (D).

The following table indicates possible settings for the differential feed. However, you should always perform a sewing test on your fabric before starting work.

Fabric type/Effects	Differential feed setting
	gather ≥ 2.0 c	normal ≥ 1.0 c	stretch ≥ 0.5 c
Very thin fabrics: silk, satin, poplin, taffeta, lining fabrics.		●	●
normal fabrics: lightweight cotton, medium cotton,line cord, thermal fabrics.		●
thin knitted fabrics: Jersey, polo fabric, tricot,line knitwear and cuffs.	●	●
thick knitted fabrics: sweatshirt fabric, thick cuffs,knitwear.	●
Stretch-wave effect: medium-and lightweight knittedfabrics, Jersey, knitwear, frilled edges on sleeves and neckopenings, skirt hems, set tight stitch length.			●
Crimping: Frills made from thin fabrics and lace,seam allowances in circular cut-outs, curves on blouses,shirts, skirts, round pockets, flape and lapels, gatheringor slightly easing sleeve (shoulder) curves,sewing sleeves onto cuffs or wristbands.	●

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Close-up of hands operating a sewing machine (no visible text or symbols)

Sewing with the free arm

Detach the work support

Remove the lint box and pull detachable work support 10 towards the left.

Reattach the lint box.

Close-up of a mechanical device with gears and a handle, possibly a valve or pump, against a plain background (no visible text or symbols)

The free arm is particularly useful for sewing tubular items such as trouser legs and sleeves. Insert the article over the free arm.

Close-up of a sewing machine needle stitching fabric (no visible text or symbols)

Reattaching the work support

Position the detachable work support so that it is level with the machine cover, then slide it to the right until it locks into Position.

Close-up of mechanical components with no visible text or symbols

Close-up of a mechanical component with circular features and a metallic top (no visible text or symbols)

Stitch finger A will be pushed forward. All standard overlock seams can be sewn with this adjustment.
Setting the slide lever for the stitch width stitch finger

For standard overlock seams:

Set the slide lever for stitch finger 18 to position S.

Close-up of a mechanical device with circular components and a metallic clip (no visible text or symbols)

Close-up of a mechanical component with labeled section A (no readable text or symbols)

For rolled hems

Set the slide lever for stitch finger 18 to position R.

Stitch finger A will be pushed backward. All rolled hems can be sewn with this adjustment.

Program summary

Program	Application
4-thread overedge seam	Sewing together any material, especially elastic fabrics, with simultaneous serging.
3-thread overedge seam (wide)	Serging tightly-woven (easily frayed) fabrics
3-thread-overedge seam (narrow)	Serging lightweight (easily-frayed) fabrics
3-thread serging seam (wide)	Serging tightly-woven (non-fraying) fabrics
3-thread serging seam (narrow)	Serging lightweight (easily-frayed) fabrics
3-thread decorative seam (wide) FLATLOCK	Serging medium-heavy fabrics. As flatlock seam for sewing together stretch fabrics and as a decorative finished edge.
3-thread decorative seam (narrow) FLATLOCK	Serging medium-heavy fabrics. As flatlock seam for sewing together stretch fabrics and as a decorative finished edge.
3-thread rotec hem	Serging medium-heavy fabrics. Decorative finished edges.

Thread tensionThe setting are for medium-heavyfabrics and normal polyester yarn.				Stitchlength	Stitch-width	Positionof slide leverfor stitchfinger	Converter■=with□=with-out
blue	green	pink	yellow
N	-2	-2	-1	3	3.5	S	□
N		-2	-1	3	3.5	S	□
	N	-2	-1	3	3.5	S	□
N		-5	+3.5	3	3.5	S	□
	N	-5	+4	3	3.5	S	□
-4.5		N	+2	3	3.5	S	□
	-4.5	N	+2	3	3.5	S	□
	-1	+2	-1	F	R	R	□

Program summary

Programs	Application
Folded 3-thread rolled hem	Serging lightweight to medium-heavy fabrics. Decorative finished edges.
2-thread overedge seam (wide) FLATLOCK	Serging medium-heavy fabrics. As flatlock seam for sewing together stretch fabrics.
2-thread overedge seam ( narrow) FLATLOCK	Serging lightweight fabrics. As flatlock seam for sewing together stretch fabrics.
2-thread serging seam (wide)	Serging lightweight fabrics.
2-thread serging seam ( narrow)	Serging lightweight fabrics.
2-thread rolled hem	Serging very lightweight fabrics. Decorative finished edges.
Folded 2-thread rolled hem	Serging very lightweight fabrics. Decorative finished edges.
2-needle, 3-thread overedge closing seam	Serving together and simultaneous serging of lightweight, high-stretch fabrics.

Thread tensionThe setting are for medium-heavy fabrics and normal polyester yarn.				Stitch length	Stitch-width	Position of slide lever for stitch finger	Converter■=with□=with-out
blue	green	pink	yellow
	-2	N	+3	F	R	R	□
-4			+2.5	3	3.5	S	■
	-4		+2	3	3.5	S	■
N			-3.5	3	3.5	S	■
	N		-3.5	3	3.5	S	■
	-4		+1	F	R	R	■
	-1		-2	F	R	R	■
-1	-2		-4	3	3.5	S	■

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Adjusting the thread tension

The following pages contain directions for setting tread tensions for all programs. Adjust the tension by turning the tensioning wheel until the dot marker is at the desired setting.

The settings for adjusting thread tension are recommendations. Fabric type, yarn quality and needle gauge will influence seam results. For this reason it is always best to sew a test seam to check the interlocking of threads. It may be necessary to correct the thread tension settings.

Tip: When testing, it is a good idea to use thread colours corresponding to the individual thread tensions, e.g. thread the upper overedge looper with pink yarn, the lower overedge looper with yellow yarn, etc.

Note: All further settings required for individual programs (needle position, stitch length, stitch width, etc.) are to be found in the program summary on pages 28 to 31.

4-thread overedge seam

blue	green	pink	yellow
N	-2	-2	-1

If all tensions are optimally set, the two-looper threads will be interlocked at the very edge of the fabric.

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The left needle thread (blue) is too loose. Increase the tension of the blue thread.

The right needle thread (green) is too loose. Increase the tension of the green thread.

The upper looper thread (pink) is visible on the reverse side of the fabric.

Increase the tension of the pink thread and/or reduce the tension of the yellow thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is visible on the face side of the fabric. Increase the tension of the yellow thread and/or reduce the tension of the pink thread.

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3-thread overedge seam

The needle thread is too loose.

wide	blue	green	pink	yellow
	N		-2	-1

Increase the tension of respective needle thread.

narrow	blue	green	pink	yellow
		N	-2	-1

The upper looper thread (pink) is visible on the reverse side of the fabric.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is visible on the face side of the fabric.
Increase the tension of the pink thread and/or reduce the tension of the yellow thread.
Increase the tension of the yellow thread and/or reduce the tension of the pink thread.

3-thread serging seam

wide	blue	green	pink	yellow
	N		-5	+3.5

The needle thread is too loose. Increase the tension of the respective needle thread.

narrow	blue	green	pink	yellow
		N	-5	+4

The upper looper thread (pink) is only partly looped around the edge of the fabric.
Reduce the tension of the pink thread and for increase the tension of the yellow thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is visible on the face side of the fabric. Increase the tension of the yellow thread and/or reduce the tension of the pink thread.

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3-thread decorative seam serging. FLATLOCK

The needle thread is too light.

wide	blue	green	pink	yellow
	-4.5		N	+2

narrow	blue	green	pink	yellow
		-4.5	N	+2

The upper looper thread (pink) is visible on the reverse side of the fabric
Increase the tension of the pink thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is too loose.
Increase the tension of the yellow thread.

3-thread rolled hem

blue	green	pink	yellow
	-1	+2	-1

The right needle thread (green) is too loose.
Increase the tension of the green thread.

The upper looper thread (pink) is visible on the reverse side of the fabric.
Increase the tension of the pink thread and/or reduce the tension of the yellow thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is visible on the face side of the fabric.
Increase the tension of the yellow thread and/or reduce the tension of the pink thread.

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Folded 3-thread rolled hem

blue	green	pink	yellow
	-2	N	+3

The right needle thread (green) is too loose.
Increase the tension of the green thread.

The upper looper thread (pink) only partly loops around the edge of the fabric.
Reduce the tension of the pink thread and/or increase the tension of the yellow thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is visible on face side of the fabric.
Increase the tension of the yellow thread and/or reduce the tension of the pink thread.

2-thread overdge seam, FLATLOCK

wide	blue	green	pink	yellow
	-4			+2.5

narrow	blue	green	pink	yellow
		-4		+2

Note: Attach the converter (see page 21) for sewing 2-thread overedge seams (FLATLOCK).

The needle thread is too loose or the lower looper thread (yellow) is too tight. Increase the tension of the respective needle thread and /or reduce the tension of the yellow thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is visible on the reverse side of the fabric. Increase the tension of the yellow thread and/or reduce the respective needle thread tension.

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2-thread serging seam

wide	blue	green	pink	yellow
	N			-3.5

narrow	blue	green	pink	yellow
		N		-3.5

Note: Attach the converter (see page 21) for sewing 2-thread serging seams (FLATLOCK).

The needle thread is too loose.

Increase the tension of the respective needle thread and/or reduce the tension of the yellow thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is too loose.

Increase the tension of the yellow thread.

2-thread rolled hem

blue	green	pink	yellow
	-4		+1

Note: Attach the converter (seep page 21) for sewing 2-thread rolled hems.

The right needle thread (green) is too light.

Reduce the tension of the green thread and/or increase the tension of the yellow thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is too light.

Reduce the tension of the yellow thread and/or increase the tension of the green thread.

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Folded 2-thread rolled hem

blue	green	pink	yellow
	-1		-2

Note: Attach the converter (see page 21) for sewing 2-thread rolled hems.

The right needle thread (green) is too loose.
increase the tension of the green thread and/or reduce the tension of the yellow thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is too tight.
Reduce the tension of the yellow thread and/or increase the tension of the green thread.

2-needle, 3-thread overedge closing Seam

blue	green	pink	yellow
-1	-2		-4

The left needle thread (blue) is too loose. Increase the tension of the blue thread.

Note: Attach the converter(see page 21) for sewing 2-needle, 3-thread overedge Closing seams.

The right needle thread (green) is too loose.
Increase the tension of the green thread.

The lower looper thread (yellow) is too light.
Reduce the tension of the yellow thread.

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Close-up of a mechanical device with mounted components and a cylindrical component (no visible text or symbols)

Machine maintenance Cleaning the machine Switch off at the mains switch

Detach the lint box open the looper cover. Disengage the upper knife and remove the sewing foot.

Close-up of a hand using a tool to adjust or install electronic components (no visible text or symbols)

Use the lint brush from the accessories to remove lint from the needle plate, the upper and lower knives and looper area.

Close-up of a person operating a mechanical device with visible gears and components (no text or symbols)

Lubricating the machine Switch off at the mains switch

The point shown above should be lubricated with the oil from the accessories every time the machine is cleaned. One or two drops of sewing machine oil are sufficient. All other parts are manufactured from special material and do not require lubrication.

Cleaning the rubber feet

Clean the machine's rubber feet from time to time with rubbing alcohol. This ensures good stability.

Changing the lower knife Switch off at the mains switch

Removal: Detach the lint box and open the looper cover. Disengage the upper knife and move the needle(s) to the uppermost position. Use the large screw-driver from the accessories to loosen lower knife retaining screw A. Remove the screw and the lower knife.

Close-up of a mechanical device with labeled components (A and A') and no visible text or symbols beyond labels

Close-up of a sewing machine needle being sewn into a black plastic component (no visible text or symbols)

Insertion: Insert a new lower knife into the recess provided and tighten the retaining screw. Engage the upper knife and close the looper cover.

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Close-up of a hand using a sewing machine to adjust or install a component (no visible text or symbols)

Changing the light bulb (sewing light) Switch off at the mains switch

Use the large screwdrivet from the accessories to loosen the retaining screw of sewing light cover 13 until the latter can be removed.

Close-up of a hand holding an electronic device with visible wiring and components (no text or symbols)

Push the bulb into the socket, give it a half-turn in a counter-clockwise direction and remove it.

Close-up of a robotic arm with hands adjusting the internal components (no visible text or symbols)

Insert a new bulb (max. 15 Watt) into the socket and rotate it until the two cams of the bulb lock in. Push the bulb into the socket, thereby rotating it in a clockwise direction until it is firmly in place. Replace the sewing lamp cover ana tighten the retaining screw.

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Black-and-white photo of a young boy holding a LEGO building (no visible text or symbols)

Special accessories

On the following pages you will find descriptions of all sewing feet available as special accessories to help you to get the best from your 853/854. By using these sewing feet, you can perform various sewing steps in one, thus saving time and ensuring perfect sewing results.

The special accessories can be purchased from your dealer.

Special accessory	Order No
Blindstitch sewing foot	93-415 506-23/000
Gimp thread sewing foot	93-415 507-00/000
Elastic tape sewing foot	93-415 506-21/000
Shirring foot	93-415 506-20/000
Cording foot	93-415 506-22/000
Bead sdwing foot	93-415 506-24/000
Lace sewing foot	93-415 507-69/000

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Close-up of a textured surface with a small ruler or measurement tape (no visible text or symbols)

Blindstitch foot

The blindstitch foot is ideal for professional sewing of invisible seams on medium-heavy and thick fabrics. The seam is trimmed, serged and "blind" stitched in a single operation.

Setting the machine

Remove the left needle. Set your machine to 3-thread overedge seam (narrow) and select stitch length 4.

Working:

Raise the needle to its uppermost position and insert the blindstitch foot. Fold the seam inwards. Now fold the seam once again outwards so that the edge protrudes approx. 1cm . Position the seam under the sewing foot so that the folded seam part 3 lies beneath edge guide 2. Crease 4 must thereby run along the edge of guide 2.

Simple line drawing of a mechanical or electrical component with no text or symbols

Loosen set screw 1 and adjust edge guide 2 so that upon penetration only one thread of the upper fabric is caught by the needle. Sew a test seam.

Gimp sewing foot

This sewing foot is used for sewing in gimp threads (cords, synthetic threads) up to a thickness of 1.0 mm. It creates a wavelike hem finish in delicate fabrics e.g. for evening dresses and bridal gowns or curtains

Close-up of a metallic ribbon or sheet metal with interlocking bands, no visible text or symbols

Setting the machine

Set your machine to folded 3-thread rolled hem.

Working

Raise the needle to its uppermost position and insert the gimp sawing foot. Insert the gimp thread into guide 1 and pull it through hole 2 into lateral guide 3. Then lay the thread under guides 4 and 5 so that it projects approx, 10cm towards the back. Hold the gimp thread in place with a few stitches, the lay the fabric under the sewing foot and continue sewing (the face side of the fabric should be upwards). Sew a test seam.

Note: The wave effect can be accentuated by setting the differential feed to 0.5 and cutting your workpiece diagonal to the threading.

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Close-up of a dark fabric with horizontal striations and a vertical seam on the right side (no text or symbols visible)

Elastic tape sewing foot

This sewing foot is used for sewing on elastic tape. In the same operation, the fabric is trimmed and serged, and also gathered by the contracting elastic tape.

Setting the machine

Set your machine to 4-thread overedge seam. The seam width is determined by the width of the elastic tape.

Working

Raise the needle to its uppermost position and insert the elastic tape sewing foot. Loosen screw 1 so that brake 3 at opening 2 is opened by approx. 2mm. Insert elastic tape 4 into opening 2 and pull it beneath the sewing foot so that it protrudes approx. 10 cm behind the latter. Re-tighten screw 1. The more the screw is tightened, the greater the pressure brake 3 exerts on the elastic tape and thus the greater the gather effect. Sew a test seam.

Close-up of a dark fabric with visible folds and texture (no text or symbols)

The next step is normally to stitch the elastic tape towards the left with one of your machine's elastic (expandable) stitches (see figure).

Sewing on a non-elastic tape prevents stretching of the seams (e.g. shoulder seams) in stretch fabrics.

Loosen screw 1 until the non-elastic tape can pass through opening 2 without hindrance.

Shirring foot

The shining loot enables two fabrics to be sewn together, whereby the bottom ply is automatically gathered. It is ideal for children's wear, as well as attaching gathered valances for curtains, table linen or tiered skirts.

Close-up of a textured surface with layered patterns and a vertical seam (no text or symbols visible)

Setting the machine

Set your machine to 4-thead overedge seam and the differential feed to 2.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical component with spring and base plate (no text or symbols)

Working

Raise the needle to its uppermost position and insert the shirring foot. Lift the sewing foot and insert the fabric ply to be shirred (face side up). Insert the second fabric ply (face side down) under the sewing foot to that plate 1 lies between the two plies. Lower the sewing foot and sew the two fabric plies together. Sew a test seam.

Note: The degree of shirring can be changed by adjusting the differential feed.

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Black-and-white sketch of a landscape with palm trees and a river, no text or symbols present

Cording foot

This sewing foot allows you to sew together two fabric plies, with a cording tape between them, in one operation. Ideal for casual wear, sports bags and upholstery covers.

Technical line drawing of a mechanical component with spring and base plate (no text or symbols)

Setting the machine

Set your machine to 4-thread overedge seam and seam width 4.5 mm.

Working

Raise the needle to its uppermost position and insert the cording foot. Place the two fabric plies on top of one another (face side to face side) and insert the cording tape between the two plies. Position the workpiece beneath the cording foot, ensuring that the cording (piping) runs through groove 1 in the foot. Sew a test seam.

Bead sewing foot

This sewing foot is used for sewing on beads, sequins, strass bands, lead and ordinary cords.

Vertical column of metallic spheres on a dark background (no text or symbols)

Setting the machine

Set your machine to 3-thread overedge seam (narrow or wide depending on bea size). Stitch length should be between 3 and 4

Working

Raise the needle to its uppermost position and insert the bead sewing foot. Insert the string of beads into guide 1 and beneath guide 2 approx. 5 cm behind the sewing foot. Hold the beads in place with a few stitches, then lay the fabric face up under the sewing foot and sew the beads onto the solvage.

Vertical dotted line on a dark background, no text or symbols present

Noet: For sewing on lead beading, we recommend threading the two overedge loopers with bulk thread and correcting the tension if necessary.

If you wish to sew the beading into the fabric as shown to the left, the needle thread tension must be loose (approx.-5). Lay the material reverse side to reverse side and guide the crease past the upper the while sewing. Pull the fabric apart; the beading is now in top

Sew a test seam.

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Black-and-white floral pattern with lace trim and dot holes, no visible text or symbols

Lace sewing foot

The lace sewing foot enables you to sew lace and wide bands together or onto another workpiece.

Setting the machine

Set your machine to 3-thread overedge seam (narrow) and select a stitch length between 1.5 and 2.0.

Working

Raise the needle to its uppermost position and insert the lace sewing foot. Use the large screwdriver from the accessories to loosen screw 1 and adjust guide 2 so that the needle penetrates the lace as close to the edge as possible. Tighten screw 1. Lay the lace onto the fabric, lace side to face side, at a distance of 1.5 to 2.0 cm (depending on seam allowance) away from the selvedge and sew ti on.

Microscopic view of a porous, interconnected biological or material structure with circular voids (no text or symbols visible)

When sewing two lace workpieces together, the two halves must be guided flush along edge guide 3.

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Thread chart for 2-, 3- and 4-thread overedge seams
Fabric	Thread	Stitch length
Lightweight fabrics:Organdy, light-knit fabric,taffeta, silk, lining fabrics	Cotton No. 50 – 70Synthetic yarn No. 70 –140	2.0 – 4.0 mm
Medium-heavy fabrics:Cotton, tricol, linen,dress materials	Cotton No. 40 – 60Synthetic yarn No. 70 –140	2.0 – 4.0 mm
Heavy fabrics:Tweed, suit materials,denim, heavy cloth	Cotton No. 30 – 50Synthetic yarn No. 70 –140	2.0 – 4.0 mm
Knitwear:	Cotton No. 40 – 60Synthetic yarn No. 70 –140	2.0 – 4.0 mm
2 or 3-thread relied hems	Polyester yarn No. 120 – 140Mercerized yarn(bluk thread)	1.0 – 2.0 mm

Sewing problems and their solutions

These machines have been developed for ease of operation and no difficult adjustments must be made. Sewing problems of the kind described below may occur due to minor adjustment and operating errors. They can be easily corrected by following the instructions.

Problem	Cause	Solution
Needle breakage	Needle bent or point damagedNeedle not fully insertedMaterial was pulled too firmly	Insert new needle (see page 11).Insert needle correctly (see page 11).Do not pull material during sewing
Thread breakage	Incorrectly threadedThread has caughtThread tension too tightNeedle not fully insertedIncorrect needle used	Thread correctly (see pages 12-18).Check whether thread catches at real stand etc.Correct tension (see pages 32-43).Insert needle correctly (see page 11).Use needle system EL X 705.
Skipped stitches	Needle bent or point damagedNeedle not fully insertedIncorrect needle usedIncorrectly threaded	Insert new needle (see page 11).Insert needle correctly (see page11).Use needle system EL X 705 Thread correctly (see pages 12-15).
Incorrect stitch formation	Incorrect setting of thread tensions	Reset thread tensions (see pages 32-43).
The 3- or 4-thread overedge seam has an irregular appearance and the upper loope thread has not interlocked in the seam.	The converter is attached.	Converter must be detached.

Problem	Cause	Solution
Machine will not operate, although mains switch is on	Power supply interrupted	Close looper cover (see page 9).
Fabric not neatly trimmed	Sewing lint between upper and lower knifeLower knife is blunt	Clean knivesReplace lower knife (see page 45).
Puckered seams	Thread tension too lightIncorrect setting of differential feedThread has caught due to incorrect threading	Reduce thread tension.Re-adjust diffential feed (see pages 24,25).Thread correctly (see pages 12–18).
Workpiece not fed through evenly	Stitches too shortSewing foot pressure too low for heavy fabricsSewing foot pressure to high for lightweight fabrics	Increase stitch length (see page 23).Increase sewing foot pressure (see page 23).Reduce sewing foot pressure (see page 23).

Specifications:
Max. Sowing speed	1200 stitches per minute
Seam width	3 - 6.7 mm
Stitch length	F (± 1mm) - 4 mm
Sewing foot	clip on
Lubrication	manual
Sewing foot height	4.5 mm
Overedge stroke	1.5 mm
Needle system	EL X 705, Cat. No. 2020
Needle size	80/11, 90/14
Number of threads	2, 3, 4
Dimensions (length × height × width)	395 × 360 × 375mm
Weight	6.5 kg
Contents of cardboard box
1 machine
1 foot control
1 instruction manual/guarantee certificate
1 lint box
1 machine cover