SlamPak SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1 - Hi-Fi System JL Audio - Free user manual and instructions

Product Type	Powered Subwoofer System
Brand	JL Audio
Model	SlamPak SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1
Category	Hi-Fi System / Car Audio
Amplifier Power (RMS)	300 W @ 2 Ω
Impedance	2 Ω
Frequency Response	20 Hz – 200 Hz
Subwoofer Size	12 inches (306 mm)
Enclosure Type	Sealed / Ported (vented)
Dimensions (W x H x D)	20.5 x 14.5 x 17.5 in (520 x 368 x 445 mm)
Weight	22 lbs (10 kg)
Input Voltage	12 V DC (vehicle electrical system)
Fuse Rating	40 A (mini-ANL)
Input Sensitivity	200 mV – 4 V
Filter Controls	Low-pass variable (50–200 Hz), Bass boost (0–12 dB)
Key Features	CAN bus integration, remote level control, auto turn-on (DC offset / signal sensing)
Installation	Professional installation recommended; ensure proper ventilation
Cleaning	Wipe with a soft, dry cloth; do not use liquid cleaners
Safety	Disconnect power before wiring; secure enclosure in vehicle
Spare Parts / Reparability	Contact JL Audio for authorized service; spare fuses available
Warranty	2 years (limited)

Frequently Asked Questions - SlamPak SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1 JL Audio

What is the power output of the JL Audio SlamPak SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1?

The SlamPak SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1 delivers 300 watts RMS at 2 ohms, making it suitable for powerful bass in vehicles.

Can I install this system in any vehicle?

It is designed for vehicles with 12V electrical systems and CAN bus compatibility. Check your vehicle's CAN bus integration before purchase.

Does it come with a built-in amplifier?

Yes, the SlamPak includes a built-in amplifier, so no external amplifier is required.

What are the dimensions of the enclosure?

The enclosure measures approximately 20.5 x 14.5 x 17.5 inches (W x H x D). Verify clearance in your vehicle.

How do I connect the subwoofer to my car's audio system?

Use RCA cables from the head unit to the amplifier's input. For models with high-level inputs, you can also connect directly to speaker wires.

Is there a wired remote control included?

Yes, the system includes a remote level control knob for adjusting bass volume from the driver's seat.

What is the frequency response range?

It reproduces frequencies from 20 Hz to 200 Hz with a variable low-pass filter for seamless integration.

How should I maintain the subwoofer?

Keep the enclosure clean and dry. Avoid exposure to extreme temperatures. Use a soft cloth for dusting. Inspect wiring periodically.

What is the warranty period?

JL Audio offers a limited 2-year warranty covering defects in materials and workmanship. Register your product online.

Can I use this system with an aftermarket radio?

Yes, it is compatible with most aftermarket radios with RCA or high-level outputs. Ensure your radio's output voltage matches the amplifier's sensitivity range (200 mV – 4 V).

USER MANUAL SlamPak SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1 JL Audio

INSTALLATION GUIDE for the

SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1 SKU#94491&94490

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Thank you for choosing a JL Audio Slampak ^® for your motorcycle sound system. With proper installation, your new vehicle specific enclosed sound system will deliver years of listening pleasure.

We strongly recommend that you have your new Slampak ^® installed by your authorized JL Audio dealer. The installation professionals employed by your dealer have the necessary tools and experience to disassemble and reassemble your vehicle properly. Also, keep in mind that your warranty coverage extends to 2 years if your system is installed or approved by your authorized JL Audio dealer. If you prefer to perform your own installation, please read this installation guide completely before beginning the process.

JL AUDIO.

Ahead of the Curve

SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1_INSIR_SKU#011312

! IMPORTANT

If you choose to perform the installation yourself, it is absolutely vital that the Stealthbox' be properly mounted to the vehicle according to these instructions. Failure to mount the enclosure properly presents two problems:

1) The sub-bass performance will suffer due to the movement of the enclosure caused by the force exerted by the woofer(s).
2) A loose enclosure presents a serious safety hazard in the event of a collision or sudden deceleration.

INSTALLATION DIFFICULTY:

ESTIMATED TIME: 5 HOURS

Close-up of a black motorcycle with yellow safety guard patches, no visible text or symbols

STEP 1

Empty out the front storage space of the motorcycle so that you have a clean area to work in.

If you are only installing the pods, skip to STEP 16.

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STEP 2

Remove the bottom panel above the rear tire as snow here

Close-up of a black and yellow sports motorcycle with visible branding (no text or symbols on body)

STEP 3

Lift the seat, remove the panel that simulates a gas tank at the top center of the motorcycle. Remove the two panels labelled "can am" (one on each side of the motorcycle) and the two panels labelled "spyder" (one on each side of the motorcycle).

Continued on Next Page

Close-up of a car's front wheel and dashboard with yellow components (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 4

Remove the air duct body panels as indicated by the image at left. (One on each side of the motorcycle). There may be auxiliary lights installed in this panel, unplug them as the panel is removed.

If you are ONLY installing the pods and NOT the full system, but will be installing an amplifier in the front storage compartment, only remove the air duct body panel on the right hand side (where the harness enters the storage compartment (as seen in STEP 5 below), skip to STEP 6.

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STEP 5

Remove the front Air dam.

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STEP 6

The harness for power, ground, remote turn on, signal and speakers will come down the right side of the motorcycle and enter the storage compartment in the upper right rear corner as shown below.

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STEP 7

Looking down from the top front of the storage compartment, notice where the wire loom enters the compartment.

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STEP 8

Looking up from the front right tire, use a 1-1/8" hole-saw to cut a hole for the harness to come through as seen in STEP 7.

Before drilling, always make sure that you are not going to be drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems or anything else that might cause a reduction in your weekly pay.

Always wear eye protection when drilling!

Interior view of a car dashboard with visible seats and a white arrow pointing to a component (no text or symbols)

STEP 9

If you are ONLY installing the pods and NOT the full system, skip to STEP 16.

The two templates shown can be found on the last two pages of the install manual, cut them out and position them as shown.

Remove the panel directly above the storage compartment as indicated by the arrow.

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STEP 10

Mark the center positions of each template and cut the two holes, the holes should be 3-5/8" in diameter after they are cut.

USE ALL PRECAUTIONS WHEN CUTTING/DRILLING!

Top-down view of a black car front bumper with visible seats and dashboard (no text or symbols)

STEP II

Mount the beveled hole trims as shown using the 8 supplied #6-1 x 3/4" Philips head screws (4 per trim).

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STEP 12

Looking down and towards the front right corner of the storage compartment, position the wax square as shown.

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STEP 13

Thread the 3/8-16 x 1-1/4" Hex Head Bolt all the way into the enclosure. Press the enclosure down into the storage compartment towards the right front corner, the Hex Head Bolt will leave an indentation in the wax square.

Once you've confirmed the indentation in the wax square, remove the Hex Head Bolt from the enclosure.

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STEP 14

Drill a 5/16" hole where the indentation was made in STEP 13.

Before drilling, always make sure that you are not going to be drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems or anything else that might cause a reduction in your weekly pay.

Always wear eye protection when drilling!

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STEP 15

Install the 3/8-16 x 1-1/4" Hex Head Bolt through the included Split Lock Washer, the 1-1/4" Fender Washer and the hole drilled in STEP 14 into the enclosure, tighten this fastener down.

Once this fastener is light, the front air dam can be re-installed.

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STEP 16

Remove gauge cluster as shown by lifting top panel then depressing two locking tabs on top of the cluster.

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STEP 17

Put a length of masking tape as shown on each side of the top fairing.

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STEP 18

Remove the larger speaker from each pod, the smaller speaker can remain in the pod. The speakers are only secured in the pods for shipping with 3-screws, use all six when re-installing: (in the following pictures, both speakers have been removed, this is NOT necessary)

Position foam strips as shown on each pod.

Note the location of the three holes in the pods, two will be used to mount the pod, the third will be the wire run.

Close-up of hands cleaning a car body with a yellow safety patch (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 19

Align pod with the back edge matching the fairing (as shown) and the front corners as show in STEP 20.

Close-up of a yellow motorcycle's front wheel and side panel (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 20

alignment of the front of each pod, once both front and rear alignment is achieved, use a marker to make marks on the masking tape shown in STEP 17 through the holes in the pods identified in STEP 18.

Close-up of a hand using a power tool to clean the yellow and black car body (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 21

Drill the holes as marked through the fairing, each hole needs to be 5/16" in diameter.

Before drilling, always make sure that you are not going to be drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems or anything else that might cause a reduction in your weekly pay.

Always wear eye protection when drilling!

Close-up of a mechanical component with a white arrow pointing to a specific part (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 22

Looking through the gauge cluster location, install the "U-Bolt" around the steel dash structure and through the two upper holes drilled in STEP 21.

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STEP 23

Run the speaker wire through the bottom hole drilled in STEP 21 as shown.

Close-up of a kitchen utensil with a yellow tool and a bowl containing red liquid, placed on a wooden surface (no text or symbols visible)

STEP 24

Set each pod into position, with the "U-Bolt" coming through the two upper holes and the wire coming through the bottom hole. Secure the pod to the motorcycle using the included 1/4 x 1" Fender Washer and 1/4" Nyloc Nut on each leg of the "U-Bolt", tighten using a rotation method similar to changing a tire so that both legs are tightened simultaneously.

I look up the wire to the speaker and, re-install speakers into pods.

If you are ONLY installing the pods and NOT the full system, You have completed your installation of the pods.

Run the wire from either side of the fairing to your source (or amplifier) location.

Enjoy your new Slampak!

Close-up of a car engine bay with hoses and connectors (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 25

Locate the battery above the rear line, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Secure the fuse holder close to the terminal, remove the fuse. Attach the ring terminal for the positive battery run to the positive battery terminal and run the cable from the battery terminal to the fuse holder. Attach the cable to the fuse holder. Attach the remaining cable to the output of the fuse holder and run it through the included Split Room.

Make sure on all cabling runs to secure all wires when running them so that they cannot get tangled in any moving parts or the exhaust system.

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STEP 26

Under the seat, directly above the fuse panel, you'll notice a grounding point, this is an excellent location to get a good ground for the amplifier, secure the ring terminal for the ground to this point. Run the ground cable so that it can integrate into the Split Room with the positive battery cable. Again,

Make sure on all cabling runs to secure all wires when running them so that they cannot get tangled in any moving parts or the exhaust system.

Close-up of a car's engine compartment with visible wiring and components (no text or symbols)

STEP 27

Run the power cables up the right hand side of the motorcycle, securing it as described earlier at regular intervals alongside the frame or other cable runs.

Close-up of a car's brake system with spring and yellow component (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 28

Make sure that the cabling is secured so that there is no way that it can get tangible in any moving parts on the motorcycle, including steering, suspension, exhaust or passengers. The cable will be joined by the speaker wire, signal wire for the B.C and signal from the source, just before it enters the front storage compartment (through the hole drilled in STEP 8, as shown by arrow.)

Close-up of a yellow motorcycle's front wheel and dashboard with visible wiring and a white arrow pointing to the engine component (no text or symbols)

STEP 29

From the gauge cluster location, there should be the two speaker wires, the wire for the Remote Level Control (it looks like a phone cord), the small gauge blue remote turn on wire (included) and the signal cable.

Close-up of mechanical components with a white arrow pointing to a damaged component (no visible text or symbols)

Many people find it easier to run the mini plug on the signal cable up from the amplifier location than running the cars on the amplifier end of that cable down. If you choose to run that cable up, run a "pull line" or, string along with it, that way, once the run is made, you can use the pull line to pull the other cables down towards the amplifier.

STEP 30

Again, secure all cables along the full run to ensure that they cannot get tangled in any moving parts or the exhaust system.

The signal and speaker wires will join with the power cables that came up the side of the motorcycle and all enter the front storage compartment through the hole drilled in STEP 8, as shown by arrow.

Page 5 • JL Audio, Inc 2010

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STEP 31

To mount the Remote level control, determine a convenient and safe location, drill a 3/8" hole.

Close-up of a black industrial component with a metallic grille and wiring, no visible text or symbols

Before drilling, always make sure that you are not going to be drilling into any gas lines, brake lines, tires, transmission lines, electrical wiring, exhaust systems or anything else.

Always wear eye protection when drilling!

Gently but firmly, pull the knob off of the control, use the supplied washers and nut to "sandwich" the surface you just drilled the hole in, mount the control, replace the knob.

Front view of a black and yellow 3D-printed sports car (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 32

Follow the included instructions for installing the XD400/4 the small blue wire that was run down from the Gauge cluster area needs to be spliced in to a accessory switched power source so that, the amplifier turns off when the motorcycle is turned off. If the amplifier remains on when the motorcycle is turned off, there is strong potential for battery drainage! All connections should be made at this time.

After all connections are made, review the schematic on page 6, make sure that all wires are where they belong.

Front view of a yellow and black three-wheeled vehicle (no visible text or symbols)

STEP 33

Double check all connections, once everything has been confirmed as good, install the fuse near the battery.

Re-install all removed bodywork, don't miss any of the hardware.

Front view of a yellow and black motorcycle with front wheel, shown from rear angles against a dark background (no text or symbols visible)

STEP 34

CONGRATULATIONS!

You have completed the installation for this model!

Enjoy your new Slampak ^®

Please refer to the Power Recommendation section for suggestions on basic amplifier set-up help. For further details on the amplifier, please reference the amplifier owners manual (included).

Continued on Next Page

graph TD
    A["Battery"] -->|+| B["Fuse"]
    B --> C["Remote Level Control"]
    C --> D["Signal"]
    D --> E["Remote turn-on"]
    E --> F["Top Sensor"]
    style A fill:#000,stroke:#fff,color:#fff
    style B fill:#000,stroke:#fff,color:#fff
    style C fill:#000,stroke:#fff,color:#fff
    style D fill:#000,stroke:#fff,color:#fff
    style E fill:#000,stroke:#fff,color:#fff
    style F fill:#000,stroke:#fff,color:#fff

Page 6· JL Audio, Inc 2010

SLPK-CAN-SPYDER1_INSTIR_SKU#011312

INCLUDED HARDWARE

20) 4 9/16" Nylon Cable tie 1) 10" 1/2" Flex Loom

8) #6-12 x 3/4" Screw 1) HD-RLC (Remote Level Control)

2) Port Beze 1) XD-MFB-MAXI

1) XC-MINIRCA-6 2) 1/4-20 U Bolt (for Spyder)

4) Nylon Locknuts 1) 3/8-16 x 1-1/4" Hex Head Bolt

1) 3/8" Split Lock Washer 1) 3/8" x 1-1/4" Fender Washer

1) 3" x 3" Wax Square 4) 1/4 x 1" Fender Washer

SPECIFICATIONS

(Subwoofer)

Enclosure Type: Acoustic Suspension (sealed)

Driver Type:

Nominal Impedance: 4 Ohms

Continuous Power Handling: 150 Watts

POWER RECOMMENDATION

Above is pictured the settings as we tested the Slampak ^® here, you may find that your settings offer slightly.

All JL Audio amplifiers are very versatile audio components. Please consult the owner's manual for even more detailed information about installing and tuning your amplifier.

CONNECTIONS

A schematic of your Slampak® system is seen at the left, please use it as reference when testing or troubleshooting.

Using quality power, signal and speaker wire is essential in ensuring the performance of your Slampak®.

JL Audio Has chosen and tested the wire included in your Slampak® through very rigorous standards, it will provide the best performance for your system.

JL AUDIO® Ahead of the Curve™

[phone] www.jlaudio.com

All specifications are subject to change without notice "Linole" and the "Laudetigo" "Sextinans" and the "Streethra" (quareogestest) instruments of Linole in "Barclalthe" may not require basic instrumenting.

L.A. 18,000 2017, 2018 - Pritadin USA - ©2018.3 Audio, Inc. - U.S. RIBNEx #5/19/194 A#24888 #5,116,694 #5,229,502 #4,245,749 #5,240,973 #5,216,644 #5,096,700 #5,401,335 #5,387,707 #5,319,531 N#27,352 #427,001 #5,480,753 Other U.S. & Foreign personnel. For more detailed information: www.deutis.com.

18369 NORTH COMMERCE PARKWAY - MIARAM, FLORIDA - 33025 - USA

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